S Porteous

I tried the new cylinder and that had the same problem, so it works suggest that the gears on the sector are a little proud. I don’t have a spare sectors great to try (without taking something else apart), so will probably just modify the new cylinder after I’ve put it all together with the first cylinder and made sure everything works. Yeah, the edge of the port is a little sharp. One of the reasons for taking it apart was to just assess things and remove any sharp edges (the stock has sharp plastic edges that cut into the battery wires)

Yes, all stock parts.

A little bit of Dremel action has given it the clearance it needs.

I have the AB++ in my R85. It works great. The only thing that I’d recommend is put it somewhere that’s easy to get to if you plan on using pre-cockingss as you need to press a button on it to take the pressure off the spring after you’re done playing.

I’ve just taken my Double Bell 416 apart for the first time as I was planning to change the cylinder… It’s a little noisy, so I was surprised to see it has bearings and not bushes. Anyhow… when I took the cylinder out, I noticed a sharp nick in it: And putting it back in, it lines up with the sector gear: Trying to spin the gear with the gearbox closed confirms that it is hitting. As I’m planning to replace this cylinder anyway, I was going to Dremel away a section from the cylinder until it no longer catches. Has anyone had this issue before, and if so, how did they fix it?

I tend to use 0.28g BBs s as that seems to give me a reasonable range to cost ratio. Will look into the ML options. I was thinking that it may give better accuracy. But happy to to schooled. I’ve actually paused the idea for the moment and just ordered the ZCI rotary hop and ML Macaron (from your good self 😉)

Thank you. Yes, understood. I've not done a proper examination of the RIF as yet, so it would be a matter of measuring the current inner barrel length and seeing what I could get to with a mock-suppressor. And then look to see if the cylinder is ported (and where), etc... I have no plans to change the gear ratios. If there are any good sources for cylinder to barrel length recommendations then it would also be good if people can point me in their direction.

I'm relatively new to the airsoft tech. side of things, but... all the 11.1v battery will do is get the motor (and therefore the gears) turning faster. The sector gear will release at exactly the same point, and will therefore compress the spring to the same point. So this won't have any impact on the FPS. So if you've greased the inside of the cylinder, then that's likely to be the cause of your FPS increase. Failing that, it could be that things are just better aligned after you've had them in and out. My son's first gun was also the Firehawk, and he still loves it (and it's still stock).

I'm looking at getting an longer inner barrel put into my 416, and depending upon the length that I decide to go with; there are a few different options with not a massive price difference between them all. I'm not looking to spend a ridiculous amount, so the contenders appear to be: ZCI - I have one of these (6.02 x 509) and I'm happy enough with it AOLS - I've seen a few posts on here mentioning them Madbull Black Python SHS Are there any views on the Madbull and SHS barrels, as I've not seen much mentioned on these?

So, it’s one to file then. Note to self: Don’t think about nuns

Having recently been trying various springs in new AEGs to work out what gets me to the site sweet-spot ahead of (unsuccessfully) ordering the right spring for the job... I was wondering if there was a site, or wiki, or anything which listed what different spring and gun combinations resulted in. I think that it would be a useful reference point for those that don't have every spring combination available (especially for those gearboxes that aren't quick change). Obviously this could only ever be considered a guide, and would probably need to be populated with data from non-upgraded guns, but I was thinking something like this: AEG Brand AEG Model AEG Manufacture Year Spring Brand Spring Strength Hop On (Y/N) BB Weight FPS Energy (J) ASG CZ Scorpion EVO 3 A1 2018 ASG 95 Y 0.28 285 1.06 ASG CZ Scorpion EVO 3 A1 2018 ASG 90 Y 0.28 265 0.91 Double Bell M4168 (Long) 2022 ASG 95 N 0.25 313 1.14 Double Bell M4168 (Long) 2022 ASG 90 N 0.25 280 0.91 Double Bell M4168 (Long) 2022 Gearparts 105 N 0.25 340 1.34 KWA QRF Mod. 1 2021 Gearparts 105 N 0.25 280 0.91 I don't think that it's something which a single person could maintain, so a wiki platform would be more suitable (you can then import the table data into other things from analysis). I did have a look at Wikipedia, but I don't think that the content would fir their guidlines as it's not official information as such. So my questions are: do people think that this would be something which would be useful? would people be willing to update something like this with the information that they have? where would be suitable to host this where a community could update it (is it possible on this site)? Either way, I'll probably maintain something for myself, but I would be interested in what others thought.

Ha ha, I just stumbled on this video and logged in to add it to the thread when @ak2m4 had already done it 😂 I've just fired a Perun AB++ to my R85. It's a great bit of kit, and has stopped the stalling completely.

Good luck, and I'd be interested to see your results (either way 😉). Interestingly, I had to put a new battery in my multi-meter to test the resistance and noticed a BIG fuse in the back of it. So, it could be, worst case you blow the fuse...

The fact that I'm buying motors from AliExpress instead of getting them custom made would probably answer that already. Quickly looks at fuse... 20A in the R85, so I'd say 10A isn't going to end well. I then got out my multi-meter to measure the resistance of the motor. It looks a little too low to get a proper reading with my meter, but was showing at about 0.6 Ohms. So using basic calculations for DC, you're talking about 12A on a 7.4v and 18A on a 11.1v. I went from electrical engineering to electronics as it didn't hurt as much when I touched the wrong thing. And then went into IT by accident about 20 years ago, so anything I do with electronics now is just for fun and it's been quite a while since I did any theory.

Response seems okay, but with the temperamental nature of the trigger at the moment I'm having to pull it slowly (and not all the way) in order for it to fire consistently. For RoF it was getting around 8 per second using a 7.4v LiPo. I'll probably pop the other motor back in to see what that was getting before. To be honest, I do most of my firing on semi, so not too worried about the RoF. I'll have a play with pre-cocking once I get the Perun in. Ha ha, I'm from an electrical engineering background and have learned so many lessons using the "I'll not do that again then" method 😉