Cyberlawyer

The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting. These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side. To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver. given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.

Personally I can’t say I have ever used one and all of my guns have seen plenty of red and black gas as well as green. Only upgrade I have made to the BGC is an npas to regulate FPS and I keep a couple of spare Nozzle return springs on hand as they can go (although they can last ages, it’s a bit of a lottery). I’d run it stock for a while and only install the upgrades if the OEM parts break.

I’m using the black MWS one. Most of my gun is stock internally my only internal upgrades are inner barrel, hop rubber, hop hub and npas and that’s it. I have a 450 FPS DMR as one of my MWS’ and in terms of performance the above list (with a long inner barrel) is all it took.

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono. It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available. I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths. My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?

@Davegolf sorry to derail the thread, but did you just say you have a Magpul MOE K2 grip for sale? I happen to be looking for one in black if the price is right. Feel free to PM me.

Personally I always use a sidearm and it gets used at some point in most games, so I wouldn’t leave home without one. But then I run almost exclusively GBBR rifles with realistic(ish) mag capacities, so getting a deadman’s click and needing a fast transition or just plain running out of ammo is a lot more common than with AEGs.

I’d you use the small pistol type ones you will need to glue the adapter on, otherwise it will keep coming off. The Marui m4 mag one is the best I have used.

GHK or Marui MWS are the clear leaders in the field. There are pros and cons of both. Personally I have several MWS’ and use them both for skirmishing and 2 gun competition shooting and have never been disappointed. The Marui is better performing (on green gas) more easily available and has far greater aftermarket parts support. The GHK has marginally more realistic dimensions and can use more RS parts. It’s takedown is also more realistic as it has a more realistic trigger box. It’s biggest advantage is Co2 mags if you can stomach the cost. Personally I have never found my MWS’ lacking performance on even the coldest days on Nuprol 4.0 and an npas and barrel upgrade and heavier ammo has been enough for my MWS to get to the U.K. legal Joule limits, so I’m not sold on CO2 being necessary in the U.K.

I have recently bought an FNX that I have yet to skirmish in anger, and to say the performance is staggering is an understatement. The only other Gas pistol that can compete with it IMHO is the MK23, but that is non-blowback. That being said I don't particularly enjoy shooting it (still better that the MK23!!). The plastic slide means the blowback isn't as strong as other pistols and the lack of heft when it doesn't have a magazine in it bothers me. Also the single action/double action function isn't as realistic as the VFC version of the same gun (which also feels better due to the metal slide). However for a usable skirmish pistol in the winter months the only other GBB pistol that comes close is the TM HK45 and that isn't as good as the magazines have less capacity (both in terms of gas and BBs) and it isn't optic ready.

Just had my mk12 apart to fit a new hop rubber. Was doing a bit of shooting in the garden and it felt a bit anaemic (garden is too short to really test the drop in range). A quick chrono showed it was shooting at around 200fps. Stuck a new hop rubber in it and boom back to 450 FPS with some room on the npas to go higher. No obvious damage to the original hop, just obviously wasn’t sealing well at the barrel end. Just goes to show how critical that little rubber tube is to the performance of our toys....

It’s clear it’s a pretty poor design. What with this problem and the terrible hop design this would be a hard pass if it wasn’t for the fact that it is the only MK3 HP you can buy easily that shoots well enough to skirmish.. I don’t really understand why MK3 HPs are so scarce. It’s nearly as iconic as the 1911 and every man and his dog makes multiple versions of that pistol.......

Just seen this post. Mine isn’t sorted yet. KY has the part on back order so expecting it in sometime about June 2021 🙄🙄🙄. Not had time to try and fit a steel pin to the broken part hopefully will have a couple of hours over Crimbo to do it.

Well my Mk3 has metaphorically shit the bed after not that many rounds (maybe 300 tops). It looks like the small pin on part 30 has sheared off, so now it wont actuate the gas release valve on the magazine. Not impressed at all, wondering if I should buy a new part or if I might be better drilling out the existing broken part and expoxying in a steel pin. I’ll probably try both and see how well it works, I don’t really have anything to lose other than screwing up an already broken part. I hope for everyone’s sake that this is an isolated incident and not indicative of a problem with the manufacture or design. C

Quick favour to ask... I seem to have lost the Allen key that undoes the grub screw that holds the barrel in to the hop assembly and despite having a whole draw full of bloody Allen keys I can’t find another one that fits they are either too small or too big. Can anyone confirm what the size is and have any idea where I can buy a single Allen key rather than another whole set? Edit: Never Mind found one. It’s a 16th of an inch if anyone cares.

Personally I totally agree with the players that complained to the Marshals and believe this should be dealt with in the strongest possible terms. Why do I feel so strongly on this issue, Two reasons: First it’s a matter of player safety. If a player is allowed to get away with this behaviour then the only realistic way for the enemy team to react is to treat everyone doing the ‘dead mans walk’ as a live player and open fire. This is going to lead to massive over shooting/over killing on the poor sods who are genuinely ‘dead’ and actually making the slog back to the safe zone/respawn. Yes there is an argument that dead players should have pistols holstered and hand/rifle in the air, but the reality is this only happens until they have withdrawn from the firefight that killed them and is impractical if the terrain is even moderately uneven and the respawn is more than about 50 yards away, particularly on larger sites where there can be multiple engagements between where a player ‘died’ and the respawn. Secondly, it is completely unrealistic and against the spirit of the game in an honesty based system that is intended to mimic engagements with firearms. It is not being clever or sneaky it is just as dishonest as players who don’t take their hits, in fact more so as there is no possible argument that the offending player may not have felt a BB at the end of its range that hits a bit of gear. It is straight out gaming the mechanics of the system.

I just read a post on Sugru R-hops and thought it looked like a good thing to try first particularly as I have some at home already.

I think I am going to try a test run with an old WE GBBR barrel I have sitting in my parts bin. It’s pretty long (370mm from memory) so I should get several tries out of it I am fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine so actually cutting the hop window is probably the easiest part of the operation. A couple of passes at right angles to the barrel at the correct depth should do it. I’m more concerned with cutting and fixing the hop rubber as I can see no way of doing it other than by hand with a razor blade a good eye and a very steady hand. I also don’t have any spares kicking around so will need to order a couple specifically for this purpose.

Two reasons: 1. I will need to get the barrel to attach to the current fitting points. From memory there is a grove on the underside of the VSR barrel that stops the hop rubber from rotating that is just where a grub screw needs to tighten up. 2. In order for the feed mechanism to work there is a rubber breach seal (looks like the front half of a VSR hop rubber before the barrel starts) that sits in its its own retaining loop that buts up to the barrel. For this to work it will need a solid ring of barrel to seal against so it will need an AEG style hop window rather than a VSR style cut out. I guess I could try an AEG barrel, and cut and recrown the muzzle end, but I can see a lot them have a groove in the bottom as well so not sure it would be any better. They also seem seem to be more expensive than a long VSR pistol barrel.

Ok so after reading some of the comments and having a closer look at the parts laid out in front of me I think I have a plan for an upgraded hop solution. Basically I plan to buy a new barrel (probably a crazy jet) that is at least 30 mm longer than the current stock barrel. I’ll cut it to length and then modify it fit it using the existing fixing. I can then cut a proper hop window in it and glue a bit of hop rubber into the space (basically an R hop), but I might actually use the bit of a ML with the contact patch as I don’t think the tiny brass set screw offers enough travel for a true R-hop to work. The other option being drilling out the hole for the hop adjuster to use a longer set screw, but I’d like to avoid this so I can change it back to stock. I can then glue a 5mm (Ish) square cut from a tin can to the top of the hop to spread the pressure from the brass screw evenly. if it works it will be a big improvement, will be totally reversible and will only cost the price of a barrel and hop rubber. If it doesn’t then I’ll only have wasted £20 ish. I won’t be able to get round to it for a week or two, but I’ll try and take some photos when I do and report back.

Just one note on the review, the outer barrel is removable. There is a grove in the top of what would be the chamber that allows it to pass over the feeder under the nozzle. You just need to line it up properly (a little pressure on the nozzle may also be needed).