Wild Weasel

Yep, same for me, I installed it, it failed to lock back, I wound out the buffer tube two rotations and it worked. My problem with it, as much as I loved it was that it failed to allow the ping-pong paddle to come out enough from the lower receiver which prevented the zet plate to come up enough to lock forward and although it worked perfectly I was noticing additional metal fragments appearing in the lower receiver. To remedy this I tried to bend out the b a d lever culminating in me cracking the anodising like a f'ing mong and getting v upset with myself for flushing £35 down the crapper. Well I was warned. I reckon though if you have mad metal work skills this could be made to work, unfortunately I've been dropped in too many times on my head and I couldn't. Good luck.

Good effort, cheers. I'm running TM bolt, ag nozzle and return spring/ black npas.

Yes I've got some, they sit further into the magazine though, I believe they have silent fill o rings as well - I prefer the originals filled with an ai adapter best though. I think a lot of people struggle to fill their mags because they are not pressing hard enough as the fill valve spring is quite firm and most adapters and bottles have a weak spring so they press gently till they hear gas and it is not enough to open the fill valve. One second fills - about ten of them and your done!

Does anyone else run bio bb's successfully?

'gentrification' gold, pure gold🤣🤣🤣

The weights that I quoted previously are for green gas modded magazines so they are taking into account the weight all up less the filling tube internally cut down to 10mm past the fill valve. All my v1 and V2 mags are GG modded but This messes with full auto.

So, I've done a bit of research and cannot find anything that could be classed as conclusive so to ask one more time:- What bb's do we recommend now? My mws is standard internally less Ra tech npas, six g nub and GG modded mags fed on a strict diet of propane shooting at 330-340fps with groups between 55-75mm at 20m range. Range wise on a good wind free day I'm getting hits at around 50-60m on a man-size target. Barrel is pulled through with flannelette and IPA alcohol each shoot ( not getting any on the hop) Bb's I've used are:- Tippman competition .28s Geoff's precision .25's Geoff's precision .40's And finally settled on BLS .30's as a compromise between speed and accuracy at 350fps. The Geoff's were ok but Expensive and I had a couple of stoppages due to shattering which ended up in the trigger box. As I cannot find BLS.30's at the moment what do we all recommend for a 350fps gun and are bios still not recommended? Cheers.

I've green gas modified mine before I new that v2's existed, mine are great but my Full auto is very unreliable I think due to this. This is not an issue for me as I don't use it and the mags fill reliably and easily get through two to three loads of bb's, consistency seem fine with only a small deviation over one load of bb's

Go easy on the Hao barrel nut as if you round out the tightening holes it makes it very hard to get on and off- mine is solid to get off. Additionally check the brass barrel adapter to make sure the flange of the outer barrel is proud or flush to the brass before tightening up else you will be in for some wobble. I put the back flat of the adapter flat on the side of a bench grinder and took off 0.5mm to get it right as I couldn't get any barrel shims to fit. Good luck with it and pics once complete please!

Yes but the fugly CQBR caterpillar has emerged from her chrysalis to become a beautiful 9.3" BCM urgi! Works like a bought one, had to wind out the buffer tube two turns but definitely worth the chew, Cheers!

Long shot but anybody fancy the leftovers from my mws CQBR - parts now on classified ads - parts for £50?

It's about time, just thought I'd share my current setup. Got a ginger one of these spare if anybody needs one? - ('nade not included.)

Just ordered some of these rail covers for same rail because they are very cool. How hard was it to get the rail over the barrel nut on yours? Mine took about 3-4 million pounds per square inch of pressure plus wiggling to get on our off probably due to using the wrong tool on the nut!

Could someone please put a set of calipers on their barrel before the flange that holds it in at the receiver end and give me the diameter please? It's for a shim to go inside the adapter ring on a Hao 9.3" urgi style handguard nut. Cheers Cancel that, machined down the back of the ring by holding it flat against the side of a bench grinder wheel and regularly testing against the removed barrel to make sure it did not overlap - removed 0.5 mm - barrel now solid and quick test shows possibly improved accuracy?

Perfect magpul bad lever for me then, thanks.

I know this has been covered before and I can't seem to find any definitive references to it but does anybody own a magpul B,A,D lever? Do you recommend one? Is it rs magpul or a clone? Did you have to faff about with hacksaws and files for hours to get it to fit? Does the bolt still lock back reliably without unwinding the castle nut multiple turns? sorry for rehashing this but I just couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere on Google or this forum and I fancy one. Thanks troops...

The ai oil pump turns your can of "top gas" (read propane) into green gas by forcing a very lightweight silicone oil into the can under pressure. I've only been doing the gbbr thing for a year now but from what I've read here and on other sites that can inadvertently be a bad thing. (Feel free to jump in and correct me if I'm wrong here folks) A few people myself included run their mags dry i.e. propane only - not green gas to prevent silicone contamination of the hop up bucking and to aid accuracy. I tend to take my mags apart depending on how much hammer they get every now and again and use that silicone ai oil to lube the seals directly by just putting a few drops into the fill valve hole after taking the base off, spring and follower after brushing out where the bb's reside with a bore brush. After use maintenance is as per wolf's guide on pg 1-3 of this feed. I do tend to strip the bolt down occasionally and clean and lube the seals in there with one or two drops of tippman silicone oil also to help keep things consistent as it can get a bit black in there after a bit.

Hi, I think most people would agree the Airsoft innovations polymer-nozzled adapter is the best - I bought mine from Firesupport.co.uk but I've just checked and found that they are out of stock though. I believe they are up to version 5 which is a blue one over the older tan which folks have used for years without a problem but the main point to note is the polymer nozzles not the strengthened metal nozzle is best.

Yep, I feel you, i'd got to the point where I was about to sack it too. I had tried two different a.i. adapters, two madbull copies etc and in the end it was the bottle, I solved it by buying either the Coleman type or rothenberger plumbers propane - I was still fairly fed up as i'd bought a refill kit and a refillable Coleman type bottle along with £40 of calor's finest. But once I'd binned that notion off she runs like a champ now. I hope this is not teaching you to suck eggs but when you fill have you tried pressing that little bit harder and only fill in 1-2 second stab's. I do about 10-15 stab's per mag and if you weigh your mag before and after using a cheap eBay scale you can confirm it's filled right, for example mine weigh 473 grams gassed up with no bb's and green gas modded and 499 grams gassed,bombed up and magpul fitted. If you do that before a skirmish you know you can get away with one or two 'dodgy' fills and that you have 35 rounds on board i.e no guess work. Hope this doesn't sound too daft but it's how I got it to work well for me.

I believe the general consensus is it is caused by dirty "non dry lube" causing parts to stick. If you have a look at wolf's guide to cleaning in the first couple of pages you'll see he uses wurth dry lube and carburettor cleaner to dissolve all the crap and flush out through the trigger, allow it to dry and re lube, I've been using this method from day one and haven't had a problem - give that a go before riving out the box perhaps?

Cheers, yep, checked that, there's a gauge on the side of the nozzles for that.

If you are after cheap metal targets for shooting 'steel', I use a plasterers hawk from the range (the shop, not a range), along with pans sprayed white also from there to simulate torso/head sized targets fitted to 1 3/4" plastic waste pipe drilled and bolted on. These give a satisfying hit noise easily heard over distance and are dirt cheap. I found the problem, the refillable flame king bottle I bought that was going to save me a fortune does not work with A.I. or madbull fill adapters causing the mag to only fill a bit then leaking either side of the nozzle 😭😭😭 So unless I can make / find some sort of adapter that's best part of £100 down the crapper. Problem is the inside of the bottle valve, Coleman - chamfered, Flame king flat bottomed. Looked at plumbers gas torch extension as a source of connecters to adapt it to Coleman - spec but hoses have no valve in the end of those! Lathe operaters /welders anybody able to source a cga 600 male/female weld 'em/bolt them together for me to adapt my bottle valve please?

Makes sense. I'm inclined to agree with you, I have three fill adapters, a brown and blue Airsoft Innovations polymer numbers - these give the best seal but lack enough spring to push in the valve, which if I shove harder (because nothings happening) vent the bottle. And a cheapy eBay madbull copy that has a crap seal on the fill valve, but let's me press harder but is only giving me a partial fill - I'm going to return the new blue nozzle as it is only days old and try again, fail that replace all the fill valves then if that doesn't work I'm going to make a frame, put it in the frame, look at it and go out and buy an aeg😁

Yep, everything's inverted. I'll let you know tomorrow, cheers.