Wild Weasel

Here you go:- https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lfmKJtQm-qGtE-EJLlXXixfkon5uT6nDdt7BJOOOb1o/edit?usp=drivesdk

Don't suppose you fancy copying a sheet tab and filling in the spreadsheet on page 144? And letting us know how you get on?

Totally, I would have bought a complete g & p bolt and adjustable nozzle if I could have afforded it as they look smart, unfortunately I didn't have the cash so I decided to have a go at one of the new Hao geissele numbers. As for information about it I thought asking the guy who'd just shared it on this very forum a prudent move as he had one to hand. I was simply interested as to how you get the nozzle in and out if the spring has to rotate to engage the back of the bcg, I guess you wind it in then lock the nozzle in place with the plastic gas key and there circlip is a fail safe?

Thanks mate, definitely some interest in this bolt, would love to see it taken apart - it's the thread that is of interest as the original is literally held in with a plastic clip held itself in place by the mock gas key assembly. And like jsmitkski just said the bolt head is prevented from rotation by the gas key so if you rotate this thread you are twisting the nozzle return spring internally.

Won't the nozzle return spring twist up if you rotate the thread or does the circlip just retain the back of the return spring and allow the hammer ramp to just pull through? If so how does it work?

From what I've read BLS is the OEM for a lot of bb's, I'm not sure who makes Geoff's all I can tell you is that I'm getting a decent grouping at 20m when clamped into a stand and noticeable accuracy at 40 - 60m.

I use either BLS from camoraids or Geoffs' 0.30g from outdoor and tactical as it the best compromise on a 350fps rifle between speed and terminal velocity/stability at distance (at least in my mind), I've been getting the most consistent results with the latter. I don't do a lot of testing with the bb's, I measure a few with a caliper and weigh ten on a scale to check manufacturing tolerances and that's it really. With regards to green gas modifying magazines the silver syphon pipe is easily replaced if you decide to go back to original spec but I've only had a positive experience with the mod, I suppose you could modify one and compare it to another weighing before and after to compare how much gas you can cram in there? I removed the tube, removed the valve, stuffed it with tissue to prevent fragments from getting on threads and cut it down on a bench hook with a stop line and a kerf already cut in the hook fence to ensure a consistent cut over the batch.

The MPA 'valve' was sacked due to coming loose despite threadlock etc and I read on here at the time Ra tech was the way to go and it has been great and fits well in the ag nozzle which was swapped from the original after minor damage when the nozzle return spring finally snapped (5000 RDS I reckon). As for the lower readings on the spread sheet that is because 1. I was shooting 0.30's and 2. I was playing some very close cqb trying out a possible new site and I wanted lower joules. Skip to the 25th October I've wound it open again for field play and winter. Blue is propane, yellow is a test of Mapp gas (rothenberger). (Edit - the diff' is the difference between max and min FPS over 10 shots fired) As for the consistency initially I thought it was due to magazine age and type, mags 1,2 and 3 I believe are the older type 1 magazines 4,5 and 6 type 2's, all are shot in the same conditions at the same time on propane filled to the top (liquid gas spurting) with the same batch of bb's. all are green gas modified (cut 10mm past the valve) and I believe the greater variance is easily made up for with the larger capacity of gas which doesn't appear to affect accuracy at all giving me approximately 50mm groups. The mags are weighed prior to bb's to ensure their full, I believe if they were less full i,d get better consistency. What would be cool if anyone interested next time they do a test they add their results to the XL sheet for comparison which could be a good benchmark for certain setups? Cheers P.s. I've changed the link to allow anyone to comment or edit - go wild folks, suggest copying file tabs for your own results, test conditions at the bottom. P.P.S same rules as this forum exist - be nice people - constructive comments only please. Admins hope you ok with this? If not will upload bare one for copying? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lfmKJtQm-qGtE-EJLlXXixfkon5uT6nDdt7BJOOOb1o/edit?usp=drivesdk

I have bought the geissele marked DDE colour and I'm planning on dropping my ag nozzle with oe piston rubber + mws ra tech npas in from the donor bolt and make up a summer/spare bolt incase of failure or warm weather. Eventually is like to pair it to g&p roller and aluminium buffer set. I keep an accurate record of FPS/joules consistency in a spreadsheet (attached) so hopefully I'll be able to report back something useful. Please keep/modify/change the spreadsheet and if anyone notices any glaring errors or omissions please let me know. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lfmKJtQm-qGtE-EJLlXXixfkon5uT6nDdt7BJOOOb1o/edit?usp=drivesdk

Just ordered one of these for nicer looks and a spot of extra winter performance. https://atrg.blog/2020/10/19/accessory-review-hao-geissele-rebcg-ecoline-for-marui-zet-mws-gbbr/

I don't know if anybody's seen this new receiver. I'll just leave it here please discuss.

+1 on vortex crossfire - the last red dot you will buy.

Thanks mate, ready to go to war now! Real propellant smells like shit too and poisons you with lead and after s full day on the range cleaning gpmgs you look like you just spent a day down the pits. As an added bonus I'm glad it smells, so that I know I've got a leak. Cheers

Thanks mate, ready to go to war now!

Nice one, thanks again for the info, if you can remember what sort of FPS are you getting with what weight BB please as I don't know how to convert joules to FPS and I don't think it's even possible without BB weight? Did it stay under 350fps on mapp, I realise the nozzle should dial that out and send most of the extra energy to blowback? Additionally is that rothenberger mapp pro perchance?

Cheers, I'm fairly stock internally just an npas that is relevant but the bit I'm really after is the figures as I'm running an original BCG with a bit of saving up for a lightweight option ( is the g&p a lightweight number as I don't like Angry Gun stuff - had a couple of gash items from them). Anyway any knowledge would be great, perhaps if we could nail it down to ballpark figures for a stock gun we could add it the downloadable mws thread document that's on here to cut down on repeat questions as this thread is huge.

Can I have a bit more detail about your mapp gas experiences please? I.e. internal upgrades, brand of mapp gas, BB weight FPS please, I asked this a page ago and nobody answered.

Hey folks, I'm looking at possibly running rothenberger map pro gas this winter, I'm sure a few people on here have spoke about it before what's the general score with it?

Geoff's is very hard to find at the moment, outdoor and tactical are the best bet I find though they do have limited numbers in 0.30g bio, they have a shipment in the next few weeks apparently. Does anybody know the difference between the precision and super precision as well as the natural and super naturals please?

don't know if anyone's seen this yet but looks to be a great way of working on hop and bucking.

Hold the rif as you would fire it, put your finger on the hop, raise the muzzle to increase hop, lower it, to lower hop. If that makes sense?

Looks like what I've got.

I've gg modded my type 2 mags and noticed an improvement - cut the Syphon about 10mm past the fill valve and I still get full auto and decent consistency.

https://www.haoptwart.com/product-page/hao-s-marui-mws-bcg-ecoline Anyone know more about these yet?

Has anybody encountered the screws on the top of the BCG coming loose and catching the top of the lower receiver before?