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Arassuil

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Posts posted by Arassuil

  1. 1 hour ago, Groot said:

    Sods law. 

    Dave emailed me this morning and has nubs available again.

    I already have the arm on order but quite tempted to order one anyway. 

    Has anyone done an arm vs nub test on a stock rubber with the same setup to test the difference?

     

    I don't have a nub but have had the wii-tech arm installed for about 1.5ish years. Never had an issue. Have shot up to .36's with room to hop heavier. I generally just run .3's though and run it with the Tan Modify bucking.

  2. 4 hours ago, Andropheonix said:

    Sorry to slide in here my dudes, I'm going to be buying a TM M4A1 MWS on Thursday (First GBBR in the collection), did a lot of research before committing to it, I did read that if you want to use green gas you need an upgraded valve blocker or you'll be in trouble when the OEM part breaks, so I managed to get the Dynamic Precision reinforced aluminum valve blocker, 2 quick questions if anyone has time.

     

    1. Is there a video or guide floating round (I did do a quick forum search) that I can follow for installing it?

    2. Should the rubber hose that goes inside the spring be slightly smaller than the spring? Looking at mine, it's not so it doesn't look like the spring will ever be able to retract fully... 

     

    Cheers, gents!

     

     

     

    Not 100% sure on the rubber tube though I believe it's just there as a guide for the spring, so I cannot imagine it will hurt to trim it down. Eagel6 have a great video on bolt dissassembly. It's what I used to learn when I first picked up my MWS.

     

     

     

  3. 15 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

    Have you tried the lighter Tm weight from the original bolt carrier as it's even lighter for even more cold weather ability.?

     

    Not yet as I haven't even gamed with the everything in yet. I went though about 4-5 mags in ~7 deg weather as I had to empty them for storage and there wasn't an issue in single fire or quick double tapping. I did full auto to test it out and it got halfway through a second mag until it siezed open due to cooldown. I never play full auto anyway, so I should be fine. Plus, it will be nice having a complete bolt spare, I just need to order a new pin as it was the one thing I forgot.

     

    I can make a quick vid if you're interested in seeing it in action

  4. On 11/12/2020 at 15:41, Whereismyhammer said:

    Reporting back on the jamming issue. 
     

    The mtr jammed with my mtr bolt in it but didn’t jam with my mk18’s bolt in it. So have narrowed it down to the bolt. 
     

    ordered some Geoff’s and a new g&p nozzle as mine has some damage. The stock one’s are impossible to find so I went with the g&p. Does anyone have any experience with that nozzle?

     

    checked the mags and the bucking feed lips. Both of those are good so haven’t ordered replacements. 
     

    hopefully that works. 
     

    thanks for your help so far folks 

     

    I just built a new BCG with the HAO BC and using all G&P internals including nozzel. I cannot really give you an estimate on the power as I use the G&P adjustable valve, but the nozzel itself works well. I was meant to field it yesterday, but had something come up. I've have put through about 100 rounds on my balcony though and not an issue with any of it.

     

    BCG.jpg

  5. from the picture, it's the same rail they use on the Mk18 NGRS which I have. It's not an issue on the NGRS as you swap barrels and rubbers from the inside. I'm surprised they used the same design on the MWS though due to how you have to change the rubbers

  6. 11 hours ago, Kerberos said:

    Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

    16061004558043215648200336775049.jpg

     

     

    I was doing my daily GBBR rounds and have responded to your reddit post also, but same thing here:

    This is the same rail that is on the MK18 NGRS and no, you cannot get a wrench around it. I got mine off by using flat head screwdriver in one of the square recesses and a mallet and start tapping down on it (anticlockwise/lefty loosey). It's aliminium and there's no thredlock, but it is tight and mine requried a few solid taps, enough so that it dented it.

     

     

  7. 3 hours ago, ajumma said:

    There were a few issues I’ve had with my valve.
     

    Firstly, the translucent plastic adjusting screw was so tight fitting in it’s threads that the provided metal tool to adjust it did a lot of damage when adjusting, especially when performing the adjustment with it installed inside the nozzle. During testing, to adjust FPS, I had to disassembly the whole damn bolt to take the valve out then very carefully screw in/out to prevent further stripping, which was a major pain in the ass. 
     

    Secondly, with the valve at its maximum setting I got to 1.3 joules, 102m/s with 0.25, and found that it was not consistent either. For example, with a fully gassed up mag I could get 102, then 95, then 103, then 94. Compared to the stock valve which barely has a deviation of 2m/s for me. It could be that this is because the valve was in a position where it was “too maxed out”, but for me the whole point of installing the valve was to reach the 5m minimum engagement distance limits here in Sweden (1.7j) so it’s not fit for my requirements.  
     

    But there is someone here who uses the valve and has good performance, so I wonder if mine is a lemon or if it’s not the right one for my barrel length? I followed the guide on jkarmy for which one to get but maybe getting a valve for a longer inner barrel in order to over-gas the system and get more joule creep would be better. 

     

     

    Hey,

     

    That may have been me. I have the 4.5 adjustable valve and have not had an issue. Have skirmished it around 5-6 times now. I have a 3.5 valve on order as I'm converting to a MK18 version, with a G&P re-inforced drop Nozzle and HAO bolt to go with that (when it all arrives).

     

    I have not had any issue adjusting the nylon screw with the tiny screwdriver. The valve for me is also not even close to max open. It's generally arousn 1/3rd at most.

     

    Here's a link to a previous post of mine that had a couple of photos.

     

     

  8. 12 hours ago, AlphaBear said:

    G&P npas, they make various versions like 3.5,4.0,4.5 etc.. Do these figures represent the maximum fps on 0.2's and is anyone using the npas valve kit? To get close to 350fps what 'type' of gas would be needed and of course I assume a npas flow valve will be needed in addition to some other more resilient upgrades over the stock parts?

     

    The version numbers are to do with Barrel length of your gun and not FPS. It's just a guide to make sure you are not buying something that will be over/underpowered for you barrel length.

    It's a bit confusing as some websites have the extra info and a lot dont. If you go to G&P's main webiste:

    • ONLY For Marui M4A1 MWS GBB
    • Including 90° piston cup O-ring to prevent leak out the gas
    • Suggest using below 263mm inner barrel
    • 134A only

    http://www.gp-web.com/product/mws037a/

     

    so If you are running a stock barrel you'd be looking for that one. I have a 370mm Barrel and run the 4.5 (gold) version.

    The valve gives you the ability to tune your FPS based on BB weight, barrel length, type of gas and temperature.

  9. I'm in the UK and set it so it's not firing over 1.2 Joules which is around the 280-290 mark for .3's.

     

    I only have .3's floating around as I find they are the best for me for the accuracy/price and they work well in my sidearm, which I find myself using a lot more

     

    @Davegolf thanks, I randomly saw the FSP on sale and picked it up for something different and now it's just grown on me too much.

  10. No Problem and am Happy to help. I had a bit of time over lunch so here's a bit more information.

     

    I installed it just before the pandemic so I've only been able to field it twice so I don't know about long term, but threadlock wasn't needed. I set it in the morning and checked it during the lunchtime break and it did not need readjusting.

     

    Attached are a few pictures. The BCG with the valve installed and where it sits to get my desired FPS.

    IMG_20200728_101128.thumb.jpg.6705b723efdc88e18002825713a0f858.jpg

     

     

    I also maxed it and crono'd some rounds to give an idea of the max fps of this 4.5 valve. To get the variables out of the way, this is standard TM BCG (except for springs), 6.03 370mm barrel, Modify tan rubber, CNC'd hop arm with some hop applied. Mag was probably half full.

     

    IMG_20200728_105004.thumb.jpg.41a1c15aa042bc649e547cc62401e759.jpgIMG_20200728_105021.thumb.jpg.946e7c567a622cb17cc4f260d2b2b4df.jpg

     

     

    Lastly, the MWS in question

     

    IMG_20200728_095219.thumb.jpg.5326e87a83821fb65d804256f9b7fc26.jpg

     

  11. On 26/07/2020 at 10:23, Hypokondrikern said:


    Yeah, I’d also like to know - can’t find any info on these products through the vendors selling them. Yet, I’d rather test one of mysterious G&Ps than RA-tech ( which I have only had bad experiences with in other replicas ) 

     

    only in Airsoft where there is so much myth and lack of info regarding products. In the end - I just want a modification to make my MWS safe for fielding. 
     

    anyway - I’ll send an email to Redwolf and ask regarding G&P npas. They might know more than what they write on the product page. 

     

    Hi,

     

    I'm a long time lurker, but Have had an MWS for a while. I have the 4.5 (Gold) G&P npas and a 370mm Inner Barrel and just checked it out. I generally set it between 1.1 - 1.2 joules on .3g's which is around the 290fps mark, which is with the valve around 1/3rd open on Green Gas. I remember when I first installed it with it fully opened, I was getting around 450. 

     

    Hope that helps.

     

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