Skara

I lied.

The gun somehow came back to life on its own 😕

i suspect a jam, because when I took the barrel out there was a BB stuck inside.

Gonna take it apart nonetheless to check for actual damage, at worst a new tappet plate and piston (which I already have).

If the sector is damaged I'll just swap the whole set with the stock gears from the specna.

Also installed the SHS HT into the ARP and my club's tech suggested to run the gun as it is until it dies and only then open it up to install the 13:1 set.

I'm also turning off active braking because it heats up the motor like.....a motorfucker (yay I'm funneeee)..

If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only

& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps

Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly

If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely

eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector

(or as little as possible)

Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust

BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself

Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase

on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot

Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th

 motor much quicker than a ferrite motor

On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer

The neodym motor slows much much much quicker

In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both

But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box

So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps

A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor

YES with AB off the motor spins more

BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does

This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster

But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would

Now as said, ON THE BENCH

In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily

So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is

between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps

But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB

to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less

AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock

or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly

When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof

If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)

then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB

I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself

(than reversing the polarity at the motor)

TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can 

Yep, already did that on every gun I own bar the Ares as the EFCS allows for fuck all customization. I rarely use semi auto anyway and when I do it takes seconds to turn it back on (at least on the ARP)

Regarding the Ares gearbox, I have yet to open it. I might do it this Saturday, so I can also figure out a way to rewire the thing to the front. Will make a new status update once I see what's gone and what's still useable.

Thanks for the help mate!