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Skara

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Skara last won the day on February 24 2023

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  • Guns
    Cyma CM.045, Specna C-02 and C-08, KA 9mm PDW, Action Army T-11,2x AAP-01, TM MK23 and G17.
  • Loadouts
    God's Plaid and Ranger Green, with a sprinkle of A-Tacs FG thrown in.
  • Sites
    Private Team Site (Italy)
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    La Spezia, Italy
  • Interests
    Scuba Diving, Ski, MTB, Bushcraft, Mechanical stuff, Architecture.

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  1. Smol noob teching question:

    If I increase the cylinder volume (from a type A with the hole in the middle cylinder to a C with the hole 3/4 of the way) do I risk any PME? gun has a quite high rof in the mid/high 20s.

    Everything else would stay the exact same.

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Skara

      Skara

      P_20200702_205046_vHDR_Auto_1.jpg

       

      Blue cylinder is the stock one, the brass comes from my old ICS M4..

    3. Sitting Duck

      Sitting Duck

      Brass one is say 48mm to front of cylinder

      Blue is about 45mm to front of cylinder

       

      either would do - not much in it tbh

       

      When you lost say 25fps/0.2j (depending on bb used)

      that could have been from refitting bucking/barrel

      or in a new hop/barrel setup

      or

      the bucking refitted to longer barrel that may not have sealed so perfectly

       

      Coz a longer barrel would lean to more creep not less

      So I'm a little surprised it drop a bit, should have crept up slightly

      which I wonder if the new barrel/hop was fitted 101% perfectly

      or a new hop/rubber/nub installed made the difference over original

       

      in other words - if fitted correctly or a new bucking/refitting made a less effective seal or either a bit of dirt/grease ensured a bit more hop required to lift bb and that was where the drop took place

      coz all things being equal you should have gained say 0.1j perhaps

       

      The blue G&G cylinder is slung in most G&G's up to say 333mm barrel

      and I'd lay money the spring is a m110 (360fps) or just over to make a firehawk type barrel hit 320fps with a 140mm barrel

       

      by all means test/try the other cylinder but something changed when barrel/hop got refitted imho

      also if open it up - check compression coz G&G's on some piston heads produce a below par seal, so get good compression with what cylinder seems to seal best on piston, with a decent o-ring etc....

       

      But reckon the refitting of barrel & bucking especially did not go so perfectly and thus you lost power is a possible thing to investigate

       

      or hop unit is sloppy and shifts forward at times losing seal

      so ensure spring on hop unit to push it back to seal, if the mag tries to shift it away from box when inserted

       

      something ain't right & whatever it is up with hop/bucking

      THAT is what might have caused the drop

    4. Skara

      Skara

      Thanks for the reply.

       

      I indeed expected an increase in muzzle energy with the longer barrel.

      I have already changed the piston head o-ring as the stock one was crap (all mangled and no matter what I did, it would not seal), the hop rubber was a prometheus purple that got replaced with a prometheus blue (flat) and then back to purple because the blue went in another gun.

      Now I have a ML MR-Hop AEG rubber with its Omega tensioner, which is noticeably softer than the two prommy rubbers I had previously. Now, when I had the stock 130mm inner, both prommies gave perfect air seal and consistent readings of 0.98/0.99 Joules, compared to the stock G&G blue rubber that had readings all over the place (same thing happened with the G&G green, chrono looked like it was on LSD).

       

      I am pretty sure I have installed the hop/barrel correctly and the spring that pushes the unit against the gearbox is fairly strong (it's the kind that slides over the barrel). Mags are very consistent due to their AK style locking mechanism and overall tight magwell, if they push the hop away from the box they do it in a very consistent way as well, because the readings are pretty much +- 0.6 m/s

       

      I'll chrono with the new rubber tomorrow and see if it has changed anything, then I'll open it up and mess around with the air seal again.

       

      Worst case it'll be a new piston head + o-ring and a softer spring to compensate for the energy output increase.

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