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emit

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Posts posted by emit

  1. Why are there so many second hand airsoft guns on sale on a multitude of forums and sites with asking prices close to new prices or probably no less than 10% and in some cases higher than new guns? In most cases they have barely any accessories included and when adding the postage might as well buy new for the marginal extra cost and enjoy the warranty. Is it driven by demand or sellers with unrealistic expectations?

  2. 1 hour ago, RonLancs said:

    Look through the images. The pics with the blue parts nozzle etc is the one you’re after. I’m fairly sure they only stock the blue limited version. 

    They all seem to have the same description and hoping this extract describes the "blueness" and the last photo of the gearbox looks blue enough.

    "A huge advantage is the silent piston and cylinder head set, made of aluminum and covered with a blue anode,the piston head has bearing."

    I ended up ordering the cheapest https://www.taiwangun.com/assault-rifle-aeg/cm-045-cyma as I have the spare wood furniture.

    What's the largest capacity lipo are you managing to fit under the cover?

  3. I just measured it with a 7.4V battery and the current peaked at just under 8A on full auto. The wattmeter doesn't  seem to show a summary or peaks after the testing stops so 7.9A was the highest number I observed during the test. Does this make it a very understressed setup indicating a weak spring or perhaps not much compression in the cylinder?

     

    The gearbox is stock v3 and it chronos at 345 to 350 fps with 0.2g. It used to chrono at 335 before I replaced the stock   inner barrel with a 6.02 430mm ZCI and the Maple Leaf Hop bucking and nub.

     

    Not sure how good the shimming is as I haven't taken the gearbox apart but tried to push on the gears through the  bushings' holes and there didn't appear to be any vertical play in the gears.

     

    Seems to shoot well enough from what I can see at 30m in my garden with 0.3g with an ocassional  bb flying a few inches off  from the other ones but will have to take it skirmishing to see how it performs over longer distances.

  4. 16 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:

     

     

    if it is higher than 12a on a basic std build then that is a bit high imho

    this higher amp draw is what blows the fuses (rated in amps of course)

    so check to ensure your gun isn't badly assembled/shimmed & drawing more amps than is should

     

    if done correctly I'd say the CM.028a on say a m100 max spring, 27 tpa cyma motor etc... will draw 10a

     

     

     

     

    I just ordered a watt meter to see what the load is. The 12a and 10a mentioned - is this on single shots or under auto?

  5. I just finished installing an XCORTECH XET304U mosfet, 11.1V lipo, deans connectors and 16 gauge wiring in my Cyma cm028. The rate of fire has gone up from 11 rps to 19 rps and the trigger is much more responsive so a win so far.

     

    I've been reading that some people remove their fuse to reduce the resistance in the wiring.  However I wanted piece of mind and in my search for an alternative I came across polyswitches as low resistance and resettable alternative to  fuses. I connected two 16V 10A polyswitches https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153536855033 in parallel and the gun seems to work fine however on stress testing it after about 15-20 seconds on full auto they get very hot and the rate of fire drops dramatically.

     

    Using an IR thermometer I noticed that the temperature of the polyswitches went as high as 85 degrees Celsius and I then stopped testing as I was worried I'd burn them out. The wiring, battery and mosfet remained cool throught.

     

    What worries me is the fact that they are stored alongside the battery in the plastic stock where out of sight during a game they could melt the cables, stock etc of they got too hot?

     

    Has any got experience with polyswitches? Am I worried for nothing? Can it melt plastic/cables? Any way to lessen the risk? Add a third polyswitch in parallel for example?

    IMG_20201130_201230.jpg

    IMG_20201130_201004.jpg

  6. 1 hour ago, Sitting Duck said:

     

    Then I might be tempted to cut down the outer barrel a bit, to make a slightly shorter 300mm AK

    then use it for close/mid range stuff and hopefully you won't fall on it so easily next time in its delicate repaired state

     

    Yeah if I could find a spare 350-363 M4 inner barrel, chuck that in once bodged

    see how it shoots & if it kinda works, consider cutting the thing down a bit perhaps

     

     

    I really like the idea of a shorter AK as I always found it a bit unwieldy.

    Out of curiosity - how are all the M4 managing to have range and accuracy with the shorter inner barrel but the ak needs a 455mm one?

  7. Thanks for the replies!

     

    I take it all barrels would fit as long as they are the right length? I measured it at 455mm. Looking at this Madbull just not sure it's worth spending £30 for a barrel on a £90 gun. I might bend my existing one and keep an eye out for a used one.

     

    Will try to use some epoxy adhesive on the broken part for now. The part is made from plastic.

     

    Which Cyma models are based on VFC? I really like the CM045 or the CM011 high speed. 

     

    A new gun is definitely in my near future but feels wrong to just throw this one away without attempting to fix it first.

     

     

  8. Hi,

    Unfortunately I fell on top of my Cyma CM028 during an airsoft skirmish at the weekend and it broke the body and enclosure that goes around the hop up.The barrel is also bent.

    I have a replacement body but not sure if the hop up body or barrel are replaceable or where to source them from.

    Can I just bend the barrel back or just shorten it to cut out the bent section?

     

    Is it a write off or can it be repaired?

    ThanksIMG_20201027_124915.thumb.jpg.d927dfe5d659f953dcd05ef3fd6f2e37.jpg

    IMG_20201025_120855~2.jpg

    IMG_20201027_125939.jpg

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