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Dechande last won the day on January 8 2017

Dechande had the most liked content!

About Dechande

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  1. The one you've seen doesn't fit the G&G, but you can get a machinist to thread the G&G barrel, it shouldn't cost much.
  2. I ran into this a while back. In the end I removed the UMG barrel, had the flashider cut off and a 14mm thread added. I then screwed on the flashider that comes with the umg suppressor (so it looks normal) and can use a regular tracer unit as well.
  3. I've got 2 Classic Army G36's, a C and a full length. I found the CA polymer bodies to be the nicest, when compared to JG, Star/Ares and TM. I don't know about the ICS. I've not managed to find a stanag adaptor that works properly, if that's essential, I'd try and get your hands on an ICS. Although I don't have an ICS G36, I've got a lot of their other stuff and it's always been good (except their really old MP5's, they sucked!).
  4. KWA M9 PTP are very good. I've had a TM (never liked the plastic feel myself), been using the KWA since it was released. It performs better than the TM I had long ago, in anything other than freezing conditions. Although metal, the slide is very light, hop up is very good and will run on green gas with no problems. KWA also do 3 sizes of mags for the M9, something like, 24, 35 and 49. They make a regular (M9/92F) and a railed one (M9A1), liked my first one so much, I bought the railed too .
  5. Just short stroke, it's not difficult (15 minutes with a dremel?), you'll get better trigger response and it'll greatly reduce the chance of premature engagement, especially with the faster gears. If you've spent all that money and time already, just buy an M100/110 for a few quid.
  6. Dechande

    JAY Design

    That link is to the mobile FB site. Here's the one for desktop, https://www.facebook.com/JAYDESIGN3D or if you prefer Twitter, https://twitter.com/julianarboleday?lang=en
  7. Dechande

    JAY Design

    That looks great. Does anyone happen to know what fore grip that is, also?
  8. The blowback parts (cocking handle going back and forth) are not necessary. I disconnected them on my L85 (and other EBB guns), and I'd recommend anyone else to do the same. My main concern would be making sure nothing fell into the gearbox itself, the lower half with the gears in, especially. At this stage, you may as well find a video on youtube and open up the lower gearbox to investigate. Take pictures so you can see where everything goes before disassembly. The worst part of working on a gearbox is the main spring, in particular when closing the gearbox. You can avoid this though as your gearbox splits into two parts.
  9. I've never had anyone ask me to do this, and I've certainly never had to ask it of someone. Echoing the above, I'd avoid this, something is surely wrong. In the event of a claim, you'd presumably have to open 7 disputes?! No chance.
  10. They're for attaching a groin protector, such as this one link
  11. Thanks for the replies guys, I'm glad it's not just me that thought he was being odd. Sitting Duck, he didn't send an invoice just his paypal address. I'd have settled for a mobile number and name to be honest, but he just seems too difficult. Thanks for the tip about TWG, I just had a look for a UAR on there, only £116.15. It says I only have to spend another £2.14 to get free shipping as well, not used them before, but that's a great deal, thank you!
  12. Bit of an odd one, I've not made a post like this before, never had to I suppose. I saw an ad for an aeg on another forum, it's one I've had my eye on but was advertised as faulty. messaged the seller to ask a few questions, agreed to buy. But, the seller has been a bit odd since then so I'm not sure what to make of it. I'll put up what has been said, anonymously, I'd be interested to hear what some of you chaps think/would have done? - Me - Hello,I'm looking to buy a UAR, I was looking at a new one in the UK for £135 but saw yours for sale also. If I buy one, I'll be looking to upgrade it. Potentially I could buy yours and fix it instead of buying new.What sort of condition is it in externally?Ideally, I'd want to pay around half the cost of a new one for one that needs repair.All the best,Adam - Seller - The external and condition of it is brand new, it was tested to chrono to be sold and was faulty.If you wish to buy I can probably take slight money off, but I am not preprared to drastically reduce as posting it will cost around £20 by courier. Let me know if you would like to buy. Later on, - Seller - Well I could drop to £95 as shipping & packaging and fees will cost me £20.00This package with all the mags brand new cost more (at trade pricing) than what I'm selling it for.I had contacted APS direct for replacement or ro be sent parts under their warranty but their response is yet to reach me. I just need to sell to gain some funds back as its dead money currently.Essentially you would be paying £75 + £20 for post, packing and fees. - Me - Ok, I'll have a think about it,thanks. - Seller - just some more info, had an email back from APS and apparently its an easy fix with an out of line selector lever and the connection bars... - Me - Ok, go on then!Can I get your details before I send payment please?My details:(I gave my full name, address, mobile number, Ukara number and where it was registered) - Seller - My PayPal details are -removed-once I've finished work and received funds, I'll get the item packaged up and sent out forwarding you the receipt for the shipping invoice (i.e. tracking). - Me - Can I get your name, address and a contact number before I send payment please? - Seller - I don't understand why you need my details for your purchase? this isn't a trade sale and I'm not bound anything do you ask the same from any other 2nd hand purchases you do? ie bootfairs ebay and so on. - Me - Everytime I buy something on a forum (which is fairly often), I get the details of the seller in case there's an issue. On some forums, the rules state that both parties have to swap details.I've been buying and selling airsoft kit for over 15 years, in that time, I've been scammed twice (i.e. not received anything). Having the full details of the seller shows trust and meant I got my money back in both cases. I'm not saying you're a scammer, obviously, but a lot of it happens, especially on forums.I also trade on ebay, once you buy something, you get the option on ebay to request the seller's details, this will be given by ebay, and ebay notify the seller that the buyer has made the request. Ebay give the name, address and phone number on record. I bought a pistol off this forum yesterday, it was near Glastonbury, I drove down there and made the deal face to face, in that instance I wouldn't need the seller's details, although i had them in order to find his house, obviously.Common sense is you shouldn't send money to strangers on the internet without getting some contact details first. - Seller - Ok thats fine, but I do not wish to pass my details on and have never had to before, over 12yrs of being involved with airsoft and or being on this forum for many years.I do not wish to scam you in the slightest, I am also part of the airsoft retail trade. But it is my desicion who I release my details to and in this circumstance as the item is classed as 2nd hand I am in no obligation (by law) to pass on any of my details for this transaction. Paypal is used to cover any disputes between sellers and buyers. If you wish to still purchase you can PayPal the funds over to the email supplied. - Me - I gave you my details, and I've never had anyone refuse to give theirs in return. Your feedback score is only 10, with only one of those in the last year, only 2 in the last 3 years. Your forum activity only shows sales posts, but without the feedback to back up completed deals.People get around paypal rules by sending out tracked empty boxes, meaning paypal won't refund the buyer, the protection provided is certainly not infallible.If you're not willing to provide me with any information about yourself, I'm not willing to send money. Are you seriously telling me, that you send money blindly on the internet to strangers without any contact information? If so, that's ridiculous. You're being 'part of the airsoft retail trade' doesn't tell me anything, Stephen Glennie (see the Lost Souls section for a thread about the worst scammer airsoft has probably ever seen), he claimed the same. Anyone could say that. - Seller - I find you very rude by your approach to be honest, by the tone/manner of your recent replies.Not for the fact of your request, that is viable, but I maintain, I do not have to give such information as a second hand seller. As you are purchasing your details are used to post the items to you on the shipping labels for the items. As for the request for my full details, I do not wish to disclose, I have been a victim of fraud before, something as simple as someones full name and address can give access to many possibilities. My activity via this forum is somewhat limited I agree, but what there is, is all positive feedback.I do not appreciate you stating "ridiculous" to the fact of paying people money to send items. I have never done this before .the only way I can see to resolve this is if you wish to add me on Facebook. I am happy to add you via there and discuss if that further reassures you This did put my back up, I felt I had not been rude at all. Something I find rude is when people don't start a message with 'hello' or end a message with 'thanks' or some such, or not signing off with their name at the least on first contact. These were things the seller hadn't done once, so I didn't even know his first name. - Me - It has certainly not been my intention to come across as rude, I'm sorry you feel that way.I am, however, surprised that you won't share your details, especially as I have a lot of feedback, including recently.If you want to send me a friend request on Facebook, that would be fine. At this stage I had decided not to buy as something felt off, I've never seen such a cagey seller before. If there was any chance I might still buy, it was if, via Facebook, he'd add me and then I'd have some form of contact outside of a forum. Now, despite it being the seller's suggestion, he didn't add me just sent a message: - Seller - Hello, believe we have been speaking on -forum- - Me - Hello, yes we have. This is where I realised he hadn't added me, but I had a look at his profile. There was a picture of someone appearing to be playing airsoft, his banner picture was like an advert for a retailer, with a name, website address and phone number. As he had mentioned his 'part in the airsoft retail trade' previously, I asked if it was his company: - Me - Is -name of company in profile banner' your company? - Seller - Why do you ask Adam? - Me - Because it's your profile picture. You do seem paranoid/cagey which I'm not sure what to make of. - Seller - my general personality matey... people have to earn my trust usually. - Me - It's usually the seller's place to earn the trust of the buyer... I never got a reply after that, and it has certainly removed any chance of me from buying from this seller. Now, I don't know if he is dodgy, but I feel he comes across that way. I was never asked if I had a defence to buy a RIF either. I realise there's a lot of text here, and I know not many people will want to read it all, of course, but if you get this far, I'd like to know what your thoughts are (and thanks for taking the time :)). Does he seem dodgy to you? Do you think it's unreasonable to swap contact details (something, I've always done and thought was common practice)?
  13. 510mm, the standard barrel is a 6.04 tightbore already.
  14. If you want a lid to attach stuff to, there are a few options. The main thing you'll need is ARC rails (that's what OpsCore call them, the original maker), these come with most (Crye) Airframe or (OpsCore) Fast helmets, arc rails can be attached to a Mich/ACH/ECH (all look the same) although if you want ear protection, it'll have to be a Mich/ACH/ECH 2001 and not a 2000 (full 'ears') or 2002 (half 'ears'). There are a few different types of OpsCore Fast helmet, the Bump (plastic) which includes a molded nvg mount, the Carbon, the Fast (ballistic rated) now called a 'Fast XP High Cut' and the Maritime (ballistic rated) now called 'Fast MT Super High Cut'. Crye make the Airframe, the 2 part lid, this has less ARC rail space than a Fast series helmet. Team Wendy make the EXFIL in plastic, carbon and ballistic rated material, this uses their own rail system, although there are adaptors floating about. It's certainly harder to go this route. There are clones of all these helmets available. For ear pro, there are Peltors and Sordins as the two major companies. Peltor make the adaptors that need to be bought separately to fit onto ARC rails, finding a stockist can be difficult outside of the US, I've ordered all mine from the US with no problems though. Sordins and their rebrands need SARA adaptors to attach to the Peltor ARC rail adaptors, these are difficult to get due to being made in small runs in the US, and are expensive for what they are. They also require disassembly of the headset. Again, all these parts (except the SARA adaptors, although there are clone ARC rail adaptors for Sordin style headset) are available as clones. I would not recommend clone headsets or ARC rail adaptors myself, however. Crye Airframe style lids also require another adaptor for ARC rail adaptors to achieve a comfortable angle on the headset. GoPro make a mount that fits a standard NVG mount, which is what you'll find on the above helmets. If you wanted to carry batteries on the helmet, I'd use a counter weight or strobe pouch that just velcros on. If you find some stuff you like, put up the links and I'll do my best to let you know if they'll fit together
  15. Saw this today, thought it might be of interest to some of you evo owners. I've noticed a lot of questions regarding mag pouches, Esstac have just released pouches specifically for the CZ Scorpion in most colours you could ever want, Link Link
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