Hangtight Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I'm in the middle of a build and I'm having trouble reconciling sloppy clearances with trying to get the pinion /bevel properly shimmed. The motor is an ASG cnc going into a Guarder V2 shell. The issue I have is that the shaft tower fits to the gearbox like a sausage up the Meysey Tunnel which makes shimming almost impossible. Any tips for getting this to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 You could try adhesive aluminium tape ??? I have used heat shrink tubing which sort of works - but it doesn't coz it can get damaged very easily Know what ya mean - some motor entry points are larger than others some are damn tight the pinion itself can be tight to fit into box Think the thin proper aluminium tape wrapped around the shaft is perhaps more durable & effective unless others can chime in with suggestions ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I think I can feel a Devcon moment coming on. If I use a metal loaded epoxy repair filler I should be able to clamp the shell around the motor tower with a bit of sacrificial tape as a release agent and get a good fit. I'm beginning to wish I'd just bought a nice new krytac... but looking on the bright side it's warm in the workshop and cold outside, and I like a challenge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 I'd consider the tape tbh As used in motor mod Strong and durable but can removed later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 unless others can chime in with suggestions ??? Shim gearbox so gears mesh well and fit snug but still turn easily then reassemble gun shove in motor, adjust motor height. Add battery then shoot shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters jcheeseright Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 wait... what? the hole is SUPPOSED to be massive, the grip is what holds the motor in position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I did wonder if the grip should have more influence in motor position. Makes sense if it already sets motor height. I've got the feeling that this may be another component the previous owner has 'improved'. Could someone confirm the diameter of the tower hole in an unmolested grip please? I'm never buying another second hand gun unless it's never been out of the box! Oh, and four screws to locate the grip, or have two of them been lost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters jcheeseright Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 I did wonder if the grip should have more influence in motor position. Makes sense if it already sets motor height. I've got the feeling that this may be another component the previous owner has 'improved'. Could someone confirm the diameter of the tower hole in an unmolested grip please? I'm never buying another second hand gun unless it's never been out of the box! Oh, and four screws to locate the grip, or have two of them been lost? Two screws to fix the grip, no set standard on the size of the hole, normally a lot bigger than you think would be correct! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 Two screws to fix the grip, no set standard on the size of the hole, normally a lot bigger than you think would be correct! Stop with the sensible answers. I am feeling very sarcastic tonight and you keep jumping in before I can take the mick. Its ruining my mojo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted January 24, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 24, 2017 As explained some boxes do have slightly larger apertures than others... Some motor/pinions can be different too I can't remember the exact box & motor but one in particular the pinion was a bit larger at its base/widest cut of teeth and was a f*cking sod to align in pistol grip exactly right that it entered into box when fitting motor & base plate. On other boxes the aperture can vary and if you measure the motor shaft sleeve on different motors you get deviations in some instances this can lead to a larger amount of play on motor sleeve when fitted inside the box. Yes the motor set by the plate but different plates also alter the motor angle & alignment Line up a few different compatible plates and you will notice they do vary a little too Also the motor plate holds the motor in place and sets the height - watch out for some metal plates can cause a short (little dremel work req if risk of short arises near a motor terminal) However - not matter how snug the motor is fixed at the plate - on some combinations if there is a bit too much slack inside the aperture of box, then the moment power is applied, the motor starts to turn, it will try to jump away from bevel a bit like a banshee on acid at some rave.... The v2 gearbox is a f*cking w@nky design where the motor is fixed & aligned and the f*cking wiring by motor pinion chewing Yup no doubt it is a w@nk of a gearbox when numerous bits fit badly & misaligned & what not A v3 wiith the external wiring means a mosfet can be fitted without opening box, means no chance of pinion chewing wires The motor frame means much less guesswork or judging the bevel height, the motor aligns better & firmer the odd loosening of the frame and a slight angle twist will help in adjust the motor angle to a better & more quiet angle better than a sloppy or not true alignment of different pistol grips in M4's & others throwing stuff out.... I like the v2's but the whole motor fitment is much more sloppy than v3's and it does need a little more checking imho if there is too much excessive play when the motor is inserted into gearbox aperture then you WILL have it jumping about I have known this - yes it needs a little room to adjust but too much then it will flail about under load - not good there are numerous methods to ensuring the motor fits a tiny bit more snug - still with some play but not too sloppy yes the wires should help reduce to amount of space the motor can slop about too but the v2's can be a ballache at times especially if you got a bad grip that motor slops about in too much, bad angle from bad motor plate, the grip is crap blah x3 this guy shows "some" issues on v2's - I don't agree with all his methods but to each their own as they say.... Oi wtf did the youtube link go ffs ??? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ymv2SlZOBs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 I'm pretty sure the motor pinion used to slip a tiny bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Which would explain why the numpty who owned it had the motor wound up so tight that the shaft started to grind through the lifter plate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Some people shouldn't be allowed nice things.... or access to a Dremel. ITH, feel free to take the piss, although I think I'm giving the stuff away here. A little light relief would be welcome, even if you are late to the party. I don't need sympathy but my wallet could do with Epsom Salts. New grip and base plate ordered, and after I'd made such a nice job of getting the old one to clear the receiver with a lovely 0.5mm gap. (Sigh) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted January 25, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 25, 2017 Don't worry too much.... it is an " O " pinion which is a little bit more tricky to replace but no worries if it is totally messed up you can heat up the pinion and lever or pull it off or in a vice and drift punch the shaft off the pinion tricky to replace but like the car flywheel - keep one part cool say chuck motor in freezer for a short while - heat up new pinion then try to assemble without burning yourself or using force and bending the motor shaft anyway - no biggie.... the motor can & neodym magnets can be salvaged to go with an easier std " D " armature could be quick - unlikely could be a little balanced but most likely produce a torquey motor F*ck me the balls up and abortions and failed attempts I did at first I'm not a thicko - know a bit about stuff so how hard can it be - a little toy gun..... Whilst attempting to investigate my son's slightly malfunctioning gun.... 2 Hours later a lot of swearing grease and gave up looking for the bits that exploded as I opened my first gearbox.. "Right, you know that gun of yours that was playing up a little bit" I say.... "Oh great - you fixed it then Dad...." he asks..... "No son, it is TOTALLY F*CKED NOW - new box or new gun I reckon I'm done with the bastid" I reply & reach for a beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Cheers. I couldn't be arsed to sort that motor out right at the moment, and it wasn't right for what I wanted anyway, but I might re can the ferrite motor in my son's M4 and build him a Frankentorque with speed gears and a homebred Mosfet. Besides, I've got to sort the other end of the motor out as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted January 25, 2017 Supporters Share Posted January 25, 2017 WTF happened to that poor poor motor? Everyone who has a hammer thinks he is an airsoft techie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 I think the motor was merely one of the tools which the previous owner used to beat the remainder of the internals into a pulp. I'm beginning to feel like I should start a thread to catalogue the horrors as an example of how NOT to do things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 It's back from the dead! Once I'd got the brushes out, one of which had been soldered in, I think in an attempt to repair a broken braided lead, cleaned the gear swarf out of the casing, resurfaced the commutator, and removed lumps of solder then carefully reassembled it with new brushes and a pinion... It should now spend many happy revolutions supping upon 7.4v and happily spinning 18:1 gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted March 2, 2017 Supporters Share Posted March 2, 2017 You have a done a nice job of that but am I the only one thinking that it would have been easier to just chuck it and buy a new one? There is a point when you can be too hands on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 It would definitely have been easier, but I'm a stubborn git and dragging stuff back from the brink is quite satisfying. I'm as bad with elderly bikes, cars, 150 year old sash windows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 Plus the fact it was junk, and for the sake of £12 in bits and some effort it's a £50 motor again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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