Waco’s guide to field sustainment

[The Waco Kid]

   Personally my choice for camping, if there is somewhere to hang them, is a hammock with an under quilt. I have the DD expedition with built in mosi-net. 😉 I had a hammock instead of a bed for years and sleep better in them.

[The Waco Kid]

But keeping it simple there are some options for ground insulation or protection and some reasons to choose a specific one.

 

Sleeping pads often have their insulation valve noted as an R rating. Higher number the better with 5+ being more gear to winter use. Manufacturers have been know to be a bit “optimistic” on this, as with sleeping bags.

 

 

A) Bundeswher ground sheet. Folds up and is lightweight. Moisture barrier only. Pros: low cost, not heavy and keeps you off a wet surface. Simple set up. Cons: Ground sheets can end up being a bucket channeling water onto you if sited wrongly, provides no insulation.

 

B) Thick wide military type roll mat. Pros: Cheap, light, easy set up, pretty good insulation and very robust. Cons:    Can’t be compressed for carriage so it will be on the outside of your kit.

 

C) Military “self inflating” insulated sleeping pad.  In this case a Multimat brand 38 (38mm thick winter pad). Pros: Compressible, usually* very warm, can be better for side sleepers. Cons: Some set up required, potential for puncturing, packing down is a bit more involved than a simple mat. Cost is a bit higher some very expensive options £££’s out there.

 

*There are inflatable/self inflating pads that have very little internal insulation. You then end up with a cold  pocket of air underneath you, this can be useful before very hot weather however.

 

D) Sportsman’s type blanket, foil lined tarp. Similar to ground sheet. Pros: Compact, not especially heavy, minimal set up as a ground sheet. Cons: Moisture barrier only unless something else is used to create and air gap for reflector side to work.

 

E) Bundeswher type military sleeping pad. Pros: Cheap, light, folds up

to fit in a (large) pack, robust. Cons: Not especially thick so more useful for warmer weather.

Edited May 5 by The Waco Kid

[The Waco Kid]

Trapping body heat.

 

 There are several options again with advantages and disadvantages. Some outdoor companies sell “sleeping systems” that use the R-rating for insulation although it is far more common to see season ratings for guidance. Generally a three season is sufficient for most used in the UK.

 

 

A) Insulated clothing. Pros: You probably already have some, as you are wearing it you can just get up and go. Cons: Less efficient, takes time to change in and out of as it will need to be fairly thick to be of much valve and then too warm to run about in.

 

 

 

B) Poncho liner or quilt. Pros: Can be inexpensive, quick to get out of. Some ultralight camping quilts can very warm for weight but are often pricey. Cons: Can take some setting up (see ranger roll above).*

 

*My take on the ranger roll in Grunt’s video is that it is not warm enough used like that on it’s own. Secondly the layers should not all open on the same side. “Your mileage may vary”. 😁
 

 

C) Sleeping bags. Huge variability in quality and functionality. I am going to subdivide these a little. Pros: easy to set up and stow, can be cheap. Cons: can be expensive, winter bags can be very bulky, some designs may be difficult to get out of in a hurry.

 

i) Natural Down filling. I suggest avoiding this for skirmishing events. Down comes in fill powers and quality, generally the more expensive the better. Down is possibly the best for warmth but requires proper care and game conditions will probably lead to it getting damaged.

 

ii) Synthetic filling. Higher quality gets close to the level of down. Synthetic bags are more robust than Down so more suitable for wet and muddy conditions. Three season military bags are probably all you need with two season bags being useful in the summer.

 

 

Sleeping bags verses quilts. If you are lying flat in a sleeping bag the material beneath you is compressed. This provides next to no insulation as a result. Therefore a quilt of the same weight can be warmer when paired with a decent pad or mat. However, a sleeping bag can be used more easily when sitting up or resting in different positions.

Edited May 6 by The Waco Kid

[The Waco Kid]

Means to keep dry (and out of the wind).

 

If you’ve been reading the previous posts I’ve covered setting up a simple basha or tarp. If set up correctly and relatively close to the ground, they are very weather proof. 
 

Further options:

 

 

1) Tent or tarp set up as one. Either usually need some sort of  support such as an internal pole. Most are more time consuming to pitch an strike. Options to see out and exit are limited so I am going to skip over this option (for now at least).

 

 

2) Survival bags. Non-breathable foil blankets and large plastic bags. Pros: Cheap and very compact. Cons: Maybe single use, sometimes fragile, trap moisture so can make you colder in some situations.
 

 

 

3) Bivi bags. Breathable fabric sleeping bag covers. Lots of variations made from Goretex, Pertex and similar materials. There are simple tubes with a closed foot, hooded zip opening, Odesa with built in big netting and designs with integral poles to make a tiny one person tent. Pros: Usually very weather proof, simple to set up (although there are exceptions) and can be used where other systems will not work. Cons: The more features and the lighter the weight the more they tend to cost. Some can be a bit flimsy. Can be awkward to enter and exit.

 

Edited May 6 by The Waco Kid

[The Waco Kid]

Sample setup for Summer overnight events.

 

  Selection criteria are relatively low cost and light weight for warmer weather.

 

 

  This example doesn’t follow the military three line system but does have three elements so items can be dropped off easily if needed.

 

1) Weapon and chest rig holding fighting load of ammo, smoke, bangs, water & radio.

 

2) Belt kit (molle waist pack). This holds shelter system, sit pad, precooked food and perhaps a light weight jacket and socks. As previously discussed.

Can be worn on it’s own strap or attached to the fight load with some extra clips. 

3) 25L pack. To carry sleeping system and some extras.

A) Lid pocket with first aid and admin stuff.

B) Main compartment with fold up mat, light sleeping bag, ground sheet/bivi bag and insulated jacket.

C) Side pocket with cook system.

D) Back pocket with tools and spares for gatt.

E) Side pocket with another canteen.

 

I’ll break down the specific choices and some options next.

Edited May 9 by The Waco Kid

[Tactical Pith Helmet]

On 05/05/2024 at 16:29, The Waco Kid said:

E) Bundeswher type military sleeping pad. Pros: Cheap, light, folds up

to fit in a (large) pack, robust. Cons: Not especially thick so more useful for warmer weather.

I've had one of these for years.  Slept on all sorts of ground and used it as a range mat for HFT.  ALWAYS kept in the van in case of late night breakdown.  Not especially wide.  The lad once forgot his kipmat, and we had to share this one.  It was a bit cosy tbh. 

 

I've had plenty of nights on a half inch inflating mat too, can't remember the brand, but it was bought for daughter's D of E many moons ago.  About £15 on Evil Bay.  Gave up on roll mats a long time ago, too bulky and they get in one's way.

[The Waco Kid]

I do like cheap kit mat for a few things.  Making pads for belt kit, lining my hammock (double skinned base) and as an underlay for real cold or lumpy ground. 😉

  These Chicom ones can be folded to go inside a bag and work pretty well for the money.

 

 

 

  Plus purple is the most tactical of colours. 

 

£6.05 with tax and postage.

Edited May 9 by The Waco Kid

[The Waco Kid]

Reasoning of why I’ve suggested certain items:

 

This is intent as a “starter” set of inexpensive kit for summer use. At an event you will likely be “standing too” or stagging  on and off through the night so something simple to crawl in and out of is ideal.

1) I’ve suggest items that can be be built up from so remain useful if you decide to camp out in colder months.

 

And/or.

 

2) Cheap enough that if I need to temporally ditch stuff I am outgoing to worry about it. Pyro landing on a kip mat or sleeping bag is messy. 🤪

 

 

  Key to get the most out of simple gear it is where you set up. I am assuming somewhere you can put up the basha without poles.

 

Checkist for campsite:

 

• Widowmakers. Check above you for dead trees/branches/roofing slates that might go bump

in the night.

• Not in on or next too and insect nest or animal midden…….

•.Not on boggy ground or a hollow in the ground. We do not need cover from shell splinters so you don’t need a fox hole.

 

 

Tacticalness/field craft:

 

• Somewhere that offers concealment but ideally it not under the only pair of trees in the field.

 

 

• Concealment is good but you need a  to also have good site lines and a route to exit.

 

I am sure others will chime in!

 

Detailed gear list:

 

A) Pack.  In this case a Highlander Proforces 25, this has a reasonably well supported back and waist strap. Retail about £45 but you can often get something similar in a sale for less. A plain black civilian day pack can often be had for less and you can always get it make a cover. Go for something with some back support.

Volume of 20-30L should sufficient but 40L would give room for camo net or rain gear. British Army Surplus NI patrol packs are decent or if you have some money to spend the latest Berghaus Munro uses a system to add side pockets (not PLCE ones).
 

B) Garden waste bags/Rubble sack times two. Pack liner, boot covers multi use items. If you fancy some bushcraft stuff the bags FULL with dry leaf litter and put then under your sleeping system with the open ends rolled closed and facing each other.

 

C) Groundsheet. Any cheap fairly tough but like waterproof fabric. Not strictly needed but even in the summer in the UK the ground gets damp over night. Gives you more room to put stuff down but out of the mud. The one shown is a Bundeswher ground sheet and about twice the width of the sleeping mat. A cheap polyester tarp will do. £10. 

 

D) Sleeping mat. Foldy up Bundeswher one. Thin but packs well and robust. Apparently these were modelled on Michael Schumacher’s jaw line to get the shape. £20-25 new. You can get the Z folding chinesium ones online for £10, they are okay.

 

I tend to avoid roll up kip mats at they are bulky and usually need to go on the outside of your bag which is a pain when going through undergrowth. 

 

E) Sleeping bag. Cheap polyester (I think Highlander brand) zip up envelope type. Supposedly a two season bag but really one season. Cost £10-15. It’s on here as you may already have one, the simple design is easy to whet in and out of and can be used as a blanket if sitting up. I’m sleeping in it with my boots on so cheap is good. For  £20-30 you can get a more capable bag, usually with a hood, which I don’t use.

 

 

Some  alternatives are:

 

• A poncho liner (left hand in the above). Not much more compact, no warmer, no zip and £40 for a copy. They are also shiny slide all over the place.

• Surplus patrol sleeping bag from the US MSS. A bit warmer and can be compressed to the same size. But more expensive, rapid open zip. Boot covers in this one. 😁

 

F) Pillow. This is the sleeping bag stuff sack. Inside is a woolly hat and a cheap puffy jacket the stuffs into it’s own pocket when not in use. These get worn if it’s colder or I want to be head and shoulders out of the bag any way, which is normal for me.

 

Hopefully you are working as part of a team with someone on watch at night. Therefore you can double or share up on some items. Being in the same sleeping bag is optional however. 😘

Edited May 9 by The Waco Kid