Motor over heating

[TheTitanWookie]

Hi, if someone could give my some advice on what I should do.

I have an ares am-013 honey badger, the only thing I did was change the connector to a deans. I’ve noticed half way or towards the end of a game my grip was getting very hot. Any recommendations on what to do, was wondering is I need a more efficient motor or something? (If so any affordable options would be appreciated)

[Rogerborg]

Reddit answer: you need to reshim your gearbox or your gun will explode and you'll be left with hooks for hands.

 

Actual answer: INSUFFICIENT DATA FOR MEANINGFUL ANALYSIS.

 

How hot are we talking?  Cosy covfefe mug, radiator scald, or gom jabbar test?

 

 

What battery are you using?

 

How many rounds are we talking about over how long a period of time?

[TheTitanWookie]

On 24/01/2022 at 21:58, Rogerborg said:

Reddit answer: you need to reshim your gearbox or your gun will explode and you'll be left with hooks for hands.

 

Actual answer: INSUFFICIENT DATA FOR MEANINGFUL ANALYSIS.

 

How hot are we talking?  Cosy covfefe mug, radiator scald, or gom jabbar test?

 

 

What battery are you using?

 

How many rounds are we talking about over how long a period of time?

I’d say like a hot water bottle maybe, about 600-700 ish 30-40 mins , 11.1v lipo 

[EDcase]

I don't think anyone can give a definitive answer as more investigation would be needed.

Do you mainly use single or auto?  How long are bursts?

 

For the price I would expect it has a decent motor but you could look for a better Neodymium high torque.

 

Could need better shimming and service?

 

Or run on 7.4v?

[Monkman]

My ICS was overheating like a mofo...both motor & battery.   I switched out to a Warhead Brushless motor and this motor gets luke warm maybe when spamming like mad.  They've brought out a cheaper Brushless motor now for around £80ish.  I'm very impressed with mine and am thinking of buying one of the cheaper ones to put into another gun. 

[Rogerborg]

Mmm, that sounds borderline, again dependant on whether it's a happening after a lonnnng burst, or whether it's creeping steadily up even if you're doing short-controlled.  Airsoft motors do heat up, even with no load on them (takes yours out and see), but to be honest it's not something I've ever had a problem with, either with a stock motor or the joke-brand aftermarkets that I've used - Tornado and Big Dragon.  Sure, I can feel some heat after mag dumping, but that's as expected.

 

From looking at the spec, PatrolBase recommend 7.4V, but then they also quote a low looking 0.62J.  Bespoke also reckon 0.58-0.83J, which implies a weak spring, so the motor shouldn't have to work that hard.  Oh, "ARES Gear Sensor can sense when the gear finishes its cycle and stops it at the best position. This will make sure that the piston stays in the front position".  I wonder if that implies an active braking system, which would dump more stress and heat into the motor.

 

Either way, I think I might agree with the default Reddit solution here and take a look at the shimming before hurling a different motor at it.  It's a V2 box with as quick-change spring so there shouldn't be any drama involved.

 

You can do a ballpark test from outside the gearbox by seeing if there's any play in the gear shafts.  Get the spring out first, then check that there's a tiny bit of side-to-side movement in each gear shaft, on each side.  We're talking a fraction of a mm.  If they're either sloppy, or rock solid with no movement at all, I'd get it apart and check the shimming.

 

Wait... is Ares the manufacturer that uses springs instead of shims?