Different power across different regulators

[Impulse]

Hey guys, I'm just curious if this is a thing, but I've found I get different power out of my two regulators at the same psi. This weekend I forgot to pack my Balystik regulator, causing me to almost panic as I only brought HPA guns with me and thought I'd have to run around with my two sidearms that I brought (mk23 and mp7 aep as a backup in case the mk23 didn't work). However, I remembered I brought my CO2 adapter as a backup for if my air tank ran out of air, which had my other regulator attached, a Wolverine Storm.

 

What prompts me to ask this question is that I usually chrono with my Balystik set to about 105psi to give me that crisp, consistent 2.3J out of my VSR with Wolverine Bolt, however when I chronoed last weekend with the Wolverine Storm regulator instead, I had to crank the psi to about 120psi and I got 2.2J out of it. Similarly, I let my friend borrow my m21 as his SVD was having issues, but when he took that to chrono on 60psi (again, with his Wolverine Storm regulator), it only put out 0.9J, whereas with the Balystik at 60psi it's bang on 1.1J with how the FCU is set up.

 

Anyone know why this happens? It's more of an idle curiosity than a "I must solve this problem" thing, since it's not exactly broken. However, if the Wolverine Storm regulator gives me lower powers, I may be able to more efficiently set the dwell on the m21 build, since at 60psi on the Balystik (60psi is the minimum operating pressure for the Wolverine Hydra) gives me about 1.3J with the dwell set efficiently; I'm having to run the FCU setup suboptimally to keep the m21 at 1.1J so as to avoid an MED with the Balystik, but may be able to run the Wolverine Storm regulator and have the FCU set up efficiently.

[Adolf Hamster]

i'd presume it's mainly the accuracy of the output gauge reading over/under the actual psi reading (compared to if you'd measured it with properly calibrated equipment)

 

eg when the real pressure is 60psi, the balystik says it's 55psi and the storm says it's 65psi.

 

 

[Impulse]

2 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

i'd presume it's mainly the accuracy of the output gauge reading over/under the actual psi reading (compared to if you'd measured it with properly calibrated equipment)

 

eg when the real pressure is 60psi, the balystik says it's 55psi and the storm says it's 65psi.

 

 

 

If that's the case, will running my Hydra at "60psi" on the Storm regulator damage it if it's technically only like... 50 or so as I have no idea if it's truly accurate or if the Balystik is the accurate one, or if neither are, or are these engines built with these tolerances in mind that regulators can be inaccurate?

[Adolf Hamster]

20 minutes ago, Impulse said:

 

If that's the case, will running my Hydra at "60psi" on the Storm regulator damage it if it's technically only like... 50 or so as I have no idea if it's truly accurate or if the Balystik is the accurate one, or if neither are, or are these engines built with these tolerances in mind that regulators can be inaccurate?

 

i can't imagine any engine would be damaged by low pressure, worst case it'll struggle to cycle properly.

[Tommikka]

You can build a ‘regulator tester’ with a gauge and a couple of air fittings in a similar manner to these 

 

 

 

Most build demos show a tester designed to go directly onto the source bottle (because that’s what they are building) but the principe remains the same at different stages along the air line, you just need the right fittings and an appropriate pressure gauge for the expected air pressure.

 

You will want the following:

Correct fitting for your regulators output 

On off valve (Optional but recommended to purge the tester)

Gauge

Suitable fittings between each component 

 

 

 

Aim for a gauge that has a maximum of double the expected pressure you’re expecting, and the dial to be as large as possible making it easier for you see the increments 

 
If you’re keeping it simple to check the difference between your Balystik & Wolverine then just build a one off piece, if you’d like to check any point in your air system then think about it being modular with quick disconnect fittings between the parts and assorted gauges 

 

(Don’t be buying random home DIY shop fittings as mentioned in some American videos - use proper air system fittings)