Trigger and Gearbox Housing Issue

[Matttucker]

Hi all, I am having trouble with the trigger slide and gearbox housing. Basically when the gearbox housing is done up what I would call right there is no continuity between battery positive and positive on motor when the trigger has pulled . It seems that the slide that the trigger moves to make the connection is getting stuck when the gearbox housing is tight as as soon as you loosen the gearbox housing bolts , it starts making continuity again and all is working fine . 

picture below is the part circled that I’m calling trigger slide sorry for not knowing the correct term. 
originally I thought it was what looked like corrosion on that but so I cleaned off. 
should mention this gun is brand new never fired a single round or anything . 

[Samurai]

Is that spring hooked onto it at all? I don't think it is, but the pic is a bit too dark to see properly.

[Iceni]

There's a few things I would want to check there.

There's a potential break on the + at the bottom of the gearbox. Personally I would rewire it because of the insulation damage, You might be able to get away with it, In my head that would be a potential hot spot in the wire, and a good enough reason for a full rewire. If you are no good with a soldering iron then you might want to find someone that is.

The contacts look the be black at the tip. This could cause issues  with the contacts if it's insulating it. 20 seconds with some 2000 grit wet and dry will get it back to rights. 

The contact spring doesn't look to be on correctly. It needs to be fully over the peg at the top of the contact. 

Did it have a void if removed sticker on the gearbox. If so you've just cost yourself some money, If it came DOA then you should have sent it back for a warranty repair. Now you have opened it there will be a few witness marks and you may have voided that warranty.

 

Edited May 31, 2021 by Iceni

[Matttucker]

5 hours ago, Iceni said:

There's a few things I would want to check there.

There's a potential break on the + at the bottom of the gearbox. Personally I would rewire it because of the insulation damage, You might be able to get away with it, In my head that would be a potential hot spot in the wire, and a good enough reason for a full rewire. If you are no good with a soldering iron then you might want to find someone that is.

The contacts look the be black at the tip. This could cause issues  with the contacts if it's insulating it. 20 seconds with some 2000 grit wet and dry will get it back to rights. 

The contact spring doesn't look to be on correctly. It needs to be fully over the peg at the top of the contact. 

Did it have a void if removed sticker on the gearbox. If so you've just cost yourself some money, If it came DOA then you should have sent it back for a warranty repair. Now you have opened it there will be a few witness marks and you may have voided that warranty.

 

It’s sat in the box for ages since purchase so no warranty , as mentioned I’d cleaned up the black corroded but as that’s what I thought the issue was originally. The return spring is on correctly although go not at the time of picture. The issue comes purely when the bolts for the housing are done up tight. As if the last bit is clamping it down and restricting the forwards movement of the slider. 

 

have checked all wiring with multimeter there’s no breaks , and it’s definitely down to this slider not moving forwards to make contact with the other pins . Loosen the housing bolts so that it’s still together but not tight and works fine again. 

[Speedbird_666]

Have you tried sanding down the side of the switch housing?

 

I would remove the switch/wiring loom from the gearbox and very slightly sand the side that faces you when opening the gearbox, say only 0.1-0.5mm or so with some fine wet and dry.

 

 

There could be a small warp in the shell (or indeed a problem with the switch moulding) that exerts pressure against the switch when the screws are tightened, which in turn could cause the shuttle to bind on the rails.

 

I would have a go at modifying it first to see if it can be fixed, but as a relatively low cost item, it won't be expensive should it not work.

 

Edited June 1, 2021 by Speedbird_666

[Matttucker]

2 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

Have you tried sanding down the side of the switch housing?

 

I would remove the switch/wiring loom from the gearbox and very slightly sand the side that faces you when opening the gearbox, say only 0.1-0.5mm or so with some fine wet and dry.

 

 

There could be a small warp in the shell (or indeed a problem with the switch moulding) that exerts pressure against the switch when the screws are tightened, which in turn could cause the shuttle to bind on the rails.

 

I would have a go at modifying it first to see if it can be fixed, but as a relatively low cost item, it won't be expensive should it not work.

 

Will give that a go . Any ideas where I would buy a replacement if that does not work?

[Speedbird_666]

@ak2m4 has E&C V2 Trigger Switches for £4.50 and complete V2 rear-wired sets (switch + motor/battery wires) for £10.50

 

I'm on my works computer at the moment so can't link directly his website (blocked by corporate firewall), but if you google AK2M4 and look the 'Trigger Switches & Parts' section, you'll find them there.

[Matttucker]

Perfect thanks very much 

[ak2m4]

the  E&C V2 Trigger Switches are pretty decent, they generally work on most shells.  I've not come across one in which they didn't work but you have very odd problem here.  brand new AEG's don't really have this issue.  if the shell is getting pinched then you might be able to fix with a small washer on the screw by the trigger block

[Matttucker]

7 hours ago, ak2m4 said:

the  E&C V2 Trigger Switches are pretty decent, they generally work on most shells.  I've not come across one in which they didn't work but you have very odd problem here.  brand new AEG's don't really have this issue.  if the shell is getting pinched then you might be able to fix with a small washer on the screw by the trigger block

I thought that but literally if I tighten any of the housing bolts even the furthest one away it still brings the shell too tight for that slider mechanism to function