What Are Your Thoughts?

[r00k3h]

Hey everyone, 

 

Im getting the Specna Arms Rock River Arms SA-E07 EDGE 2.0 as my main with a WE Europe Hi-Capa Dragon 5.1 A Series as a side arm.
 

What are you experiences with these RIFs? 

What type of BB should I use?

Which green gas?

Which lipo and how many?

Also what do you recommend to get as extras for either RIF?

 

Will leave it there for the questions for now.

 

Thanks in advance

 

[BigStew]

No experience with the specna. WE hi capas are garbage don't bother with it also Metal slides are detrimental to performance in the UK.  You don't really need a pistol but if you want s reliable hi capa fire support have Tokyo marui hi capas from like £120.00

Extras wise carry case for Rif is essential get a good balance charger (don't cheap out) couple of spare mags, sling, if you get a pistol you need  a holster don't get a we or neuprol they fall apart ( I have spent far too much time as a Marshall helping some one ook for their brand new gun that fell out of a duff holster) couple of spare pistol mags( good pouch preferably with a flap)

 

[r00k3h]

22 hours ago, BigStew said:

No experience with the specna. WE hi capas are garbage don't bother with it also Metal slides are detrimental to performance in the UK.  You don't really need a pistol but if you want s reliable hi capa fire support have Tokyo marui hi capas from like £120.00

Extras wise carry case for Rif is essential get a good balance charger (don't cheap out) couple of spare mags, sling, if you get a pistol you need  a holster don't get a we or neuprol they fall apart ( I have spent far too much time as a Marshall helping some one ook for their brand new gun that fell out of a duff holster) couple of spare pistol mags( good pouch preferably with a flap)

 

Thanks for your reply. I already have a high end charger for lipos as I have a few RC cars that use them so have that well covered. Regarding the holster which one would you recommend for a Hi-Capa?

[DRay]

I have a SA E07 and love it (although the KeyMod limitation is a nightmare). 
 

Battery; 9.6 NiMh works well for me and is snappy. I have been advised not to use an 11.1 unless you drop in a 30w motor which seems logical because the main criticism of SA is the motor and I don’t want to put too much power through it and burn it out. You will need a DEANS adaptor if you don’t have one already because most batteries are wired mini tamiya, but the RIF is rear wired for DEANS. 
 

BBs; I use .25/.28 and get decent range with it without having to crank the hop on all the way up or turning it into an artillery piece. 
 

Mags; Nuprol N low-mid caps feed well and are pretty bloody cheap mags so I carry 6. 

The only attachment I have added is a torch for CQB. I am going to add a sight (have started a thread on the subject already) but that’s it. 
 

Sometimes people complain that the stock is wobbly unless it is locked at full extension, I corrected that with a bit of tape on the buffer tube which fixed it. 
 

Also, on holsters, I have a warrior one (recommended to me on here via another thread I started on the subject!) which is pretty bloody good (I have only stress tested it in the house and garden and it seems good, but haven’t used it on the two way firing range yet). 

Edited March 11, 2021 by DRay

[BigStew]

1 hour ago, r00k3h said:

Thanks for your reply. I already have a high end charger for lipos as I have a few RC cars that use them so have that well covered. Regarding the holster which one would you recommend for a Hi-Capa?

I personally run Swiss arms  universal holster it can be  adapted to pretty much any pistol I have run 1911s in them which has pretty much the same upper frame as a hi capa https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ghost+dog+the+way+of+the+samurai+mini+14&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjgxM2j96fvAhVSZhQKHR7XBoEQ2-cCegQIABAC&oq=ghost+dog+the+way+of+the+samurai+mini+14&gs_lcp=ChJtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1pbWcQAzoECCMQJzoCCAA6BggAEAgQHjoECB4QClC4EFi4NWCdP2gAcAB4AIABlQGIAd8JkgEDMC45mAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-img&ei=jeNJYKDKNNLMUZ6um4gI&bih=727&biw=393&prmd=ivsn&hl=en#imgrc=6gIGW7RcDjdXMM

[Impulse]

All of this is my opinion, so bear that in mind. I come from the "buy once, cry once" camp of thought which typically means I prefer shelling out a bit more for good quality kit that I know will last me for years and years and years and years. I know others definitely prefer getting cheaper kit and see great success with it, so my opinions below are coming from the perpsective of someone who typically buys less kit, but buys premium kit.

 

I've heard poor things about the WE Hi-Capa Dragons. As in, I've heard they don't shoot well and typically shoot hot at like 1.6J, but I don't have any direct experience with them, so take that with a pinch of salt as it's very much second hand information. Get a TM Hi-Capa 5.1 instead; they're fantastic pistols and only about £120. Really can't go wrong with one.

 

As for the other questions...

 

What type of BB should I use?

0.25g or 0.28g, in both the rifle and sidearm. I prefer Geoffs or BLS BBs as quality ones.

 

Which green gas?

Ummmm... I use WE green gas and it works great. However, I think it depends on your pistol. If you get a Tokyo Marui pistol (do it, they're the best on the market) then you'll only need green gas and using red/black gas is a great way to have your sidearm destroy itself. Heck, with a TM pistol you can also get away with 144a for most of the year too. However, any GBB pistol will struggle in the coldest months of the year.

 

Which lipo and how many?

I don't know much about lipos, but you wanted my opinion so here it is. I hate lipos. I way prefer Li-Ion batteries instead, because they're way more user friendly than lipos which require a far greater deal of care to avoid ruining your batteries. However, I'll always advocate for getting a good charger, regardless of the batteries you get.

 

Also what do you recommend to get as extras for either RIF?

I'll do this in stages as I don't know your budget, starting from most important to least important (in my opinion)

• At first? Good eyepro and some decent boots. Revision Sawfly glasses are fantastic eye protection and you can get inserts for them if you're a speccy like me who doesn't want contact lenses. Boots, just make sure you get some that fit and are comfortable. Local army surplus shop will be your friend here as surplus boots are usually decent enough quality and not too expensive. If you want to be extra safe, pick up a mesh lower face mask too, as getting shot in the face will happen and the mesh face mask could be the thing that stops a tooth getting knocked out. That being said, I rarely use lower face protection and I still have all my teeth 14 years later, but I also do the whole ghillie suit sniping thing, meaning I'm typically doing my job wrong if I'm getting shot at. Lower face isn't a requirement, but it's recommended.
• Some camos, if you don't have them already. Again, surplus stuff is more than adequate and won't break the bank. Also, get a boonie or a cap when you're picking up some BDUs, as taking a BB to the head can sting! Plus, it's good for camo to have a camo boonie as opposed to a bare head.
• Next, a way to carry your guns. Get a good sling for your rifle and a holster for your pistol. I wouldn't advise skimping on these, as a crap sling will give out, potentially causing your rifle to fall and break, and a crap holster will either not hold your pistol or press on the mag release when you run, jettisoning your pistol magazine which you'll only realise about 10 mins later. For slings, I recommend Magpul MS3 (or MS4 if you've got QD sling mounts), as this sling can be switched between 2-point and 1-point with ease and it's fantastic quality. For holsters, I'd recommend IMI style holsters on the cheaper end, and a custom kydex holster at the slightly pricier end.
• After that, I'd advise a few extra mags and a way to carry them. Cheaper end for mags might be a spare pistol mag and one or two spare hi-caps for the rifle, while the more expensive end would be going for two spare pistol mags and half a dozen midcaps to help eliminate battle-rattle! I way prefer midcaps as they don't rattle and don't need winding, but you will have to reload mid-firefight. However, having to reload is a positive for me because immersion (and pulling off a sweet reload mid-firefight feels great). For ways to carry them, you could get a set of PLCE webbing and/or a surplus assault vest from your army surplus store; that's how I started out and I still have my PLCE webbing because it's great kit. At the more expensive end, I prefer going for real-steel equipment over airsoft clone stuff, so Warrior Assault Systems load bearing gear has been my go-to for over a decade now. It's fantastic quality and is really built to last, but you do pay a premium for it and it's on the cheaper end of real-steel stuff. Crye gear will literally make you cry with their prices, but it's great if you want multicam stuff.
• Anything else is purely on preference. Could get a moscart launcher, a red dot/holographic/telescopic optic, a light or PEQ etc. The reason airsoft is so expensive is because of just how many combinations of stuff we can do as a loadout there are. At the start of the year I was thinking "ah, I'm mostly done on what I want..." but now my kit / RIF project list is massive again, filled with all manner of wonderful ideas my mind has cooked up.

Edited March 11, 2021 by Impulse

[r00k3h]

28 minutes ago, Impulse said:

All of this is my opinion, so bear that in mind. I come from the "buy once, cry once" camp of thought which typically means I prefer shelling out a bit more for good quality kit that I know will last me for years and years and years and years. I know others definitely prefer getting cheaper kit and see great success with it, so my opinions below are coming from the perpsective of someone who typically buys less kit, but buys premium kit.

 

I've heard poor things about the WE Hi-Capa Dragons. As in, I've heard they don't shoot well and typically shoot hot at like 1.6J, but I don't have any direct experience with them, so take that with a pinch of salt as it's very much second hand information. Get a TM Hi-Capa 5.1 instead; they're fantastic pistols and only about £120. Really can't go wrong with one.

 

As for the other questions...

 

What type of BB should I use?

0.25g or 0.28g, in both the rifle and sidearm. I prefer Geoffs or BLS BBs as quality ones.

 

Which green gas?

Ummmm... I use WE green gas and it works great. However, I think it depends on your pistol. If you get a Tokyo Marui pistol (do it, they're the best on the market) then you'll only need green gas and using red/black gas is a great way to have your sidearm destroy itself. Heck, with a TM pistol you can also get away with 144a for most of the year too. However, any GBB pistol will struggle in the coldest months of the year.

 

Which lipo and how many?

I don't know much about lipos, but you wanted my opinion so here it is. I hate lipos. I way prefer Li-Ion batteries instead, because they're way more user friendly than lipos which require a far greater deal of care to avoid ruining your batteries. However, I'll always advocate for getting a good charger, regardless of the batteries you get.

 

Also what do you recommend to get as extras for either RIF?

I'll do this in stages as I don't know your budget, starting from most important to least important (in my opinion)

• At first? Good eyepro and some decent boots. Revision Sawfly glasses are fantastic eye protection and you can get inserts for them if you're a speccy like me who doesn't want contact lenses. Boots, just make sure you get some that fit and are comfortable. Local army surplus shop will be your friend here as surplus boots are usually decent enough quality and not too expensive. If you want to be extra safe, pick up a mesh lower face mask too, as getting shot in the face will happen and the mesh face mask could be the thing that stops a tooth getting knocked out. That being said, I rarely use lower face protection and I still have all my teeth 14 years later, but I also do the whole ghillie suit sniping thing, meaning I'm typically doing my job wrong if I'm getting shot at. Lower face isn't a requirement, but it's recommended.
• Some camos, if you don't have them already. Again, surplus stuff is more than adequate and won't break the bank. Also, get a boonie or a cap when you're picking up some BDUs, as taking
• Next, a way to carry your guns. Get a good sling for your rifle and a holster for your pistol. I wouldn't advise skimping on these, as a crap sling will give out, potentially causing your rifle to fall and break, and a crap holster will either not hold your pistol or press on the mag release when you run, jettisoning your pistol magazine which you'll only realise about 10 mins later. For slings, I recommend Magpul MS3 (or MS4 if you've got QD sling mounts), as this sling can be switched between 2-point and 1-point with ease and it's fantastic quality. For holsters, I'd recommend IMI style holsters on the cheaper end, and a custom kydex holster at the slightly pricier end.
• After that, I'd advise a few extra mags and a way to carry them. Cheaper end for mags might be a spare pistol mag and one or two spare hi-caps for the rifle, while the more expensive end would be going for two spare pistol mags and half a dozen midcaps to help eliminate battle-rattle! I way prefer midcaps as they don't rattle and don't need winding, but you will have to reload mid-firefight. However, having to reload is a positive for me because immersion (and pulling off a sweet reload mid-firefight feels great). For ways to carry them, you could get a set of PLCE webbing and/or a surplus assault vest from your army surplus store; that's how I started out and I still have my PLCE webbing because it's great kit. At the more expensive end, I prefer going for real-steel equipment over airsoft clone stuff, so Warrior Assault Systems load bearing gear has been my go-to for over a decade now. It's fantastic quality and is really built to last, but you do pay a premium for it and it's on the cheaper end of real-steel stuff. Crye gear will literally make you cry with their prices, but it's great if you want multicam stuff.
• Anything else is purely on preference. Could get a moscart launcher, a red dot/holographic/telescopic optic, a light or PEQ etc. The reason airsoft is so expensive is because of just how many combinations of stuff we can do as a loadout there are. At the start of the year I was thinking "ah, I'm mostly done on what I want..." but now my kit / RIF project list is massive again, filled with all manner of wonderful ideas my mind has cooked up.

 

Thank you so much for this in depth reply. I have read and taken onboard all the relevant information, so much so I have just purchased a TM hi-capa 5.1 DOR as I have been told by a few people that WE just don’t fire right in this country. Would Nuprol 2.0 be ok for the gas?
 

As for gear to play in I’m an Army Reservist so have the camo and boots all sorted, I too wear glasses so will look into the Sawfly brand.

 

Again thank you for taking your time to reply.

[Oneshotscott]

Hi, 

 

What are you experiences with these RIFs? non but a quick google will help you get the answers you want regarding this RIF.

 

What type of BB should I use? I would advice either .25g or .28g bb.  I think patrol base has some g&G .28g bbs for a cheap price atm.

 

Which green gas? I am not sure for that pistol but be sure to fire the manufacturer an email and id purchase the type they recommend dependant on the temperature you're playing in.

 

Which lipo and how many? Again, Id do the same as mentioned previously (contact the manufacturer)

 

Also what do you recommend to get as extras for either RIF? 2 x spare mags for the Specna, 1 x spare battery, 1 x spare mag for the pistol, some form of holster for the pistol, a sling for the rifle, a bag or box to transport both RIF'S (a cheapo gun slip may do for now?).   it will help if you have some form of chest rig/vest/belt to help carry the spare mags/holster/car keys etc.  

 

Eye pro,face mask or mouth guard, boots are a kind of must though.

 

[BigStew]

41 minutes ago, r00k3h said:

 

Thank you so much for this in depth reply. I have read and taken onboard all the relevant information, so much so I have just purchased a TM hi-capa 5.1 DOR as I have been told by a few people that WE just don’t fire right in this country. Would Nuprol 2.0 be ok for the gas?
 

As for gear to play in I’m an Army Reservist so have the camo and boots all sorted, I too wear glasses so will look into the Sawfly brand.

 

Again thank you for taking your time to reply.

Gas wise you'll be fine with 144a that was what the TM pistols are designed to use. Switch to green gas when it gets colder. You can use green gas all year round but it will shorten the life span of the gun.

[Impulse]

43 minutes ago, r00k3h said:

 

Thank you so much for this in depth reply. I have read and taken onboard all the relevant information, so much so I have just purchased a TM hi-capa 5.1 DOR as I have been told by a few people that WE just don’t fire right in this country. Would Nuprol 2.0 be ok for the gas?
 

As for gear to play in I’m an Army Reservist so have the camo and boots all sorted, I too wear glasses so will look into the Sawfly brand.

 

Again thank you for taking your time to reply.

 

Nuprol 2.0 should be fine with a TM Hi-Capa. Green gas is great for TM pistols in the UK, but I would switch to 144a for any temperatures of 20+ celcius, as it's more than sufficient and will increase the longevity of the gun.

[r00k3h]

Is the Nuprol 1.0 same as 144a?

[Impulse]

On 12/03/2021 at 21:14, r00k3h said:

Is the Nuprol 1.0 same as 144a?

 

Yes, I believe so. 1.0 is 144a, 2.0 is green, 3.0 is red and 4.0 is black