Upgrade Advice and Single Shot Problems

[sonofsammo]

I currently have a nuprol pioneer defender, and I've lost the stock. 
What I'm left with is in the pic.
I ran it at the last skirmish I was at - even got a few kills. 

I taped a lipo to the side and sallied forth.
The only problem I had was the bugger would barely shoot on single shot - which I only found out when I really needed single shot!
What might the culprit be and how could I fix it?
Also, I'm thinking of using this as a secondary to my sniper/dmr, as it's light and can run hicaps.
It's got reasonable range and accuracy, but more is always better - what are some decent cheap upgrades I could do to improve my survival and get a few kills while I'm at it?
TIA 😄

 

[Adolf Hamster]

when you say it would barely shoot do you mean she was struggling to cycle?

 

in which case i'd start at the battery and work towards the motor as either the motor is too weak or it's not being fed enough juice.

 

in terms of range/accuracy it's a multi step process, but a new hop rubber/nub to lift heavier ammo and some air seal work is gonna be your best bang for buck.

 

that will mean cracking her open though.

[Sitting Duck]

it should be QC spring but has them fucking odd bespoke bastid micro switches

likely with a qwirky trigger dooberry that bends & relatches mofo shit jobs

 

https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/nuprol-spare-part-m-series-replacement-trigger-airsoft-6mm-softair-nsp-dsp-009-30574-p.asp

 

So it is advisable to ensure it has a mosfet in there or you will need to replace the microswitch sooner than later

deans, slap some grease it it, check seals but likely weak motor is looking a little tired...

 

with a tiny budget you could chuck in a cheap mosfet, deans, lube, seals etc...

clean up the motor commutator with fibreglass pen etc...

 

then due to mosfet - run it on 11.1v to get some zest and give it some welly on 11.1v to stop the motor stalling

(admit you would deffo install mosfet on microswitch guns, clean up motor a tiny bit and invest on a lipo - poss 11.1v)

unlikely you will blast past 20rps so no massive danger on lame arse motor until it finally croaks

 

you could be looking at say £10 min if diy mosfet or say £20 if you buy a basic one like perun & bits n bobs

plus LiPo battery or better battery of course

 

YES you could change this and that - new motor & all that

but that is throwing more money at it than perhaps it is worth in its present state

(and it is a Nuprol with qwirky switch/trigger - well it is a Nuprol)

 

with its possible micro switch dooberry bollocks - you do not wanna boost the juice as is atm

Nuprol's get a LOT of flack - but their biggest weak point is that switch

you will be replacing it often if you run on 9.6v or 11.1v due to arcing at contacts

(you will then get ripped off with buying a NUPROL switch, which is just a std microswitch of same spec)

 

if these companies put it a tiny bit more thought into the design/build - a £5 mosfet or 50p diode (perhaps)

then the switches will last longer (especially micro switches - the hint is in the micro bit)

Then put in a slightly better built motor - still ferrite to keep costs down but one that is assembled

with better tolerances & efficiency, run it on 9.6v or 11.1v as it has mosfet/diode and everyone is happy

 

but nope - they like most companies slap it all together in a Chinese sweat shop cutting corners

and some shit is worse than others for durability

 

but yeah in its present state you don't wanna go nutz on money/servicing/upgrading it

just general basics and mosfet of some description I would look to

maybe a schottky diode across motor but unsure how well the micro switch would hold up long term 11.1v

But it is a bit of a mess atm ( no offence )

so really a cheap-skate bodge and re-slap it back together is probably all I'd do too

or at least until it croaks a bit - then consider any options & stuff

 

[ak2m4]

exactly what @Sitting Duck says, don't throw too much money on it.  Those micro-switches ain't the greatest so if you can fit a basic fet on one (think I saw a guide to fitting one somewhere).  You have to open it up first to see what the issue is first..

 

I think I've got an old factory deformed stock tube somewhere together with an old stock that you can have for the price of p+p.  I'll check around.

[sonofsammo]

10 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

when you say it would barely shoot do you mean she was struggling to cycle?

 

in which case i'd start at the battery and work towards the motor as either the motor is too weak or it's not being fed enough juice.

 

in terms of range/accuracy it's a multi step process, but a new hop rubber/nub to lift heavier ammo and some air seal work is gonna be your best bang for buck.

 

that will mean cracking her open though.

It would struggle to cycle to shoot a single BB.
Flipped back to automatic and shot perfectly well again. 
I am dim with such things, but why does it take MORE juice to sling a single BB than to sling multiple BBs?


 

5 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:

you could be looking at say £10 min if diy mosfet or say £20 if you buy a basic one like perun & bits n bobs

plus LiPo battery or better battery of course

 

but yeah in its present state you don't wanna go nutz on money/servicing/upgrading it

just general basics and mosfet of some description I would look to

maybe a schottky diode across motor but unsure how well the micro switch would hold up long term 11.1v

But it is a bit of a mess atm ( no offence )

so really a cheap-skate bodge and re-slap it back together is probably all I'd do tooor at least until it croaks a bit - then consider any options & stuff

 

 better battery - Although I've been playing for three years, I still know next to nothing about batteries - the battery I used is the same one I run in my Vector. How do I know what's good / better etc?

it is a bit of a mess (no offence) - none taken 😄 -  lol - It was the first gun I bought, before I played, for back yard plinking with my son. Then added tape to skirmish. Then took the stock off to put on something else. It's only actually had a couple of bottles through it ever and everything internal is completely stock

I'm aiming for something that looks like crap, but still gets kills...

 

[Sitting Duck]

40 minutes ago, sonofsammo said:

It would struggle to cycle to shoot a single BB.
Flipped back to automatic and shot perfectly well again. 
I am dim with such things, but why does it take MORE juice to sling a single BB than to sling multiple BBs?

 

it doesn't - it is a case of getting the fucker cycling from still

once it is running it will continue to cycle on full auto

as the thing is running and yu are just keeping it - ergh running

 

from still, especially precocked a little or a lot - yeah you got little or no chance of getting the bastid to move

 

BUT - now on some ye olde v2's they have a copper plate across the selector

and two prongs on switch that get bridged by the plate

however - these two prongs lose some tension over time and the contact from selector plate is not quite 100%

and the first point of contact is in semi - there is no contact in safe and this ye olde extra safety feature

helped to ensure gun can not fire even if safety failed

So no contact on safety, contact begins on semi & stronger contact is made on full auto

yet it was not uncommon to see sporadic or not perfect bridging in semi and added to a gun struggling on semi

 

Now your gun don't have these prongs/plate bollocks but some like cheapo Cyma's still have this crap

 

Yet - though it shouldn't matter on semi or auto - when firing from still, partially pre-cocked

(it is the fucking same shit - stationary gun trying to cycle on a weak lame motor...)

 

you do seem to get marginal more success trying to fire a stalled gun in auto than in semi

you really shouldn't all things considered - if the gun is stalled it is fucking stalled

but on occasions the gun does seems to eventually cycle more in auto than in semi

fuck knows why this is - could be a gun with prongs/plate has better contact

though yours does not have this

it could be the trigger is being an arse & not latching correctly or cut off bollox

yet overall it SHOULDN'T really make a difference from stationary if the gun's stalled

ergh it has stalled and semi/auto should be nigh on same meat different gravy when attempting to fire

 

The reason why you don't wanna chuck loads of money into it

is coz the switch, trigger, cut off lever, selector plate etc.. - all of this is fucking bespoke/weird shit

you can't change the trigger, if the COL wears out being alloy over time - yeah a SHS one won't work

the switch can be replace (often)

 

if all that shit went tits up and you was looking to replace it all then there is the possibility

and I say POSSIBLE option of gutting for a Perun Optical which would do away with a lot of the bespoke shit

HOWEVER - this is a serious investment and likely not worth it unless you really wanted to keep the gun

PLUS - I DO NOT KNOW FOR CERTAIN IF THE PERUN WOULD FIR IN THERE PERFECTLY OK

I think it might - might need a bit of a mod but it is a possible option for desperate Nuprol owners to consider

However only really sad owners might take the plunge of it working with a bit of work if they had trouble sourcing say COL

**** ignore the above bollox about possible UNTESTED Perun upgrade ****

 

It was more a case of explaining what a wank these boxes are if shit hits the fan and bespoke bits n bobs to source

so you got a bit of a qwirky box to say the least - Nuprol ain't the only ones, TomTac boxes use micro switch bollox

and some other makes did too, don't think it was early E&C's but some other might be ZCI and also Arcturas bollox use this crap too I think...

 

http://wmasg.com/uploads/froala/images/articles/1/a018dd57c4c7aeca08b1210a68947c9c.jpg

 

FFS - WHY DO SOME PICS POST & OTHER DON'T...

 

 

though it looks ultra bespoke I do tend to think a perun Optical could be made to work in there

with conventional trigger/selector plate perhaps - but still untested/gamble

and certainly not fucking worth it coz it's a cheap shite knackered looking dog of a gun

(with its own issues on top)

 

anyway - the gun once stalled shouldn't matter if in semi/auto

only firing in auto sometimes brings a little more success than semi - think you can just try like fuck

without the COL/Trigger latch issue in auto than a better continuity thing with motor wiring crap

41 minutes ago, sonofsammo said:

I'm aiming for something that looks like crap, but still gets kills...

 

 

WELL - you are getting there in the looks department

 

 

 

[Adolf Hamster]

34 minutes ago, sonofsammo said:

It would struggle to cycle to shoot a single BB.
Flipped back to automatic and shot perfectly well again. 
I am dim with such things, but why does it take MORE juice to sling a single BB than to sling multiple BBs?

 

It's trying to go from a standing start, potentially under load (depending how far it rolls past cutoff)

 

A very approximate analogy is why your car wont pull away from parked in 5th gear, but once up to speed it's fine.

 

36 minutes ago, sonofsammo said:

better battery - Although I've been playing for three years, I still know next to nothing about batteries - the battery I used is the same one I run in my Vector. How do I know what's good / better etc?

 

Batteries have 3 main ratings:

Voltage (7.4v, 11.1v etc) more volts = more oomph so it'll spin everything faster. Think of this like the horsepower on your engine

 

Capacity (800mah, 1200mah etc) expressed as milli amp-hours, more is always better because it'll last longer, but the trade off is generally a battery that is physically larger so might not fit in the gun. Think of this like the fuel tank on your car

 

C rating (20c, 15c, 30c etc), this is an expression of the safe current draw a battery can do, the formula is you take your capacity in mah, divide by 1000 (converting to ah) then multiply by the c rating. More c rating is always good and much better to be over-specced (as the actual amp draw is what the motor tries to take), of course the downside is the battery will be more expensive. The car analogy is tricky but think of this like the fuel pump- the engine wants what it wants and you gotta feed it fuel fast enough.

 

However, this is a stock gun and presuming the battery isn't worn out/got a dead cell (which will be noticable in every gun you use it in) then we can probably rule that out as the problem.