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LewisUK

Spetsnaz Kalashnikov attachments and tips?

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So I just got the Spetsnaz Kalashnikov (Came with 2 high cap mags and some other stuff) as my first ever airsoft gun (The site I play at is also a shop and they recommended this)

Pics:

http://imgur.com/a/XRWAm

 

I am looking at attachments (Flashlight, grip, sight(not sure if my gun will allow any custom sights)), also at getting some mid-cap mags, will CYMA 150 Midcap AK mags work fine in this? On top of that im looking at a sling, will any universal two point sling be suitable for an AK?

 

It comes with a charger and battery, but some reviews say the charger is complete garbage, so what should i be looking for? I found a few 'smart' chargers but the whole 600mA etc... confuses me slightly being new an all.

 

Additionally, as this is my first ever airsoft gun I could do with some tips on how to keep it clean and functioning thanks!

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Light - It's an AK, tape on a torch in traditional fashion.

Grip - If your handguard has a rail underneath you can bolt one on, but if it's too long it'll prevent you inserting magazines. End of the day they seem like the obvious thing but there's no need for them: Save some money and a bit of weight.

Sight - Your receiver doesn't have a side rail for Russian style optics, so you'd either need to change the top cover for one with picatinny (which will then probably wobble and be pointless) or get something quite fancy and complex that replaces your iron sights: Just use your irons until you get a gun more suitable for mounting a red dot

Sling - Any 1 or 2 point that can clip on to or wrap around the sling attachment points on your rifle. If you've only got the 1, probably best to either go with a 1 point sling or fashion an extra sling loop up front using some paracord

 

Charger - http://www.componentshop.co.uk/quickshop/index/view/path/1000ma-1500ma-li-po-li-fe-charger-for-2s-3s-lipo-life-battery-packs-complete-with-psu.html
Batteries - http://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft/li-po-packs/74v

 

No need to waste money on utterly obsolete NiMh batteries, 7.4 LiPos are fine. Your connectors will most likely be either large or mini tamiya, check what your gun has and post a picture if you're not sure. Any of the 20 or 25c packs will be fine from that site,more Mah just more it holds more charge and gives more shots. Best to buy 2 packs so you can swap at lunch, long as you use your charger properly (which will be easy) the only potential danger from LiPos is if you keep firing them til they're dead flat, but your gun will start getting slow and noticeably chugging WAY before that happens.

 

Cleaning - Wipe the muck off the outside occasionally. If you like, you can use a small patch of cotton rag or some kitchen roll with a tiny tab of a mild cleaner down the inner barrel every now and then (with the supplied cleaning rod), run a dry patch down afterwards, just be gentle with it when you get to the rear end of the barrel near the hop unit and turn the hop right off when cleaning. No need to take it apart any further than that unless you full in a swamp or something. Biggest new-player mistake is over maintenance, these things are simple machines with very closed systems, they're best off left alone until you've fired many tens of thousands of rounds.

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Light - It's an AK, tape on a torch in traditional fashion.

Grip - If your handguard has a rail underneath you can bolt one on, but if it's too long it'll prevent you inserting magazines. End of the day they seem like the obvious thing but there's no need for them: Save some money and a bit of weight.

Sight - Your receiver doesn't have a side rail for Russian style optics, so you'd either need to change the top cover for one with picatinny (which will then probably wobble and be pointless) or get something quite fancy and complex that replaces your iron sights: Just use your irons until you get a gun more suitable for mounting a red dot

Sling - Any 1 or 2 point that can clip on to or wrap around the sling attachment points on your rifle. If you've only got the 1, probably best to either go with a 1 point sling or fashion an extra sling loop up front using some paracord

 

Charger - http://www.componentshop.co.uk/quickshop/index/view/path/1000ma-1500ma-li-po-li-fe-charger-for-2s-3s-lipo-life-battery-packs-complete-with-psu.html

Batteries - http://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft/li-po-packs/74v

 

No need to waste money on utterly obsolete NiMh batteries, 7.4 LiPos are fine. Your connectors will most likely be either large or mini tamiya, check what your gun has and post a picture if you're not sure. Any of the 20 or 25c packs will be fine from that site,more Mah just more it holds more charge and gives more shots. Best to buy 2 packs so you can swap at lunch, long as you use your charger properly (which will be easy) the only potential danger from LiPos is if you keep firing them til they're dead flat, but your gun will start getting slow and noticeably chugging WAY before that happens.

 

Cleaning - Wipe the muck off the outside occasionally. If you like, you can use a small patch of cotton rag or some kitchen roll with a tiny tab of a mild cleaner down the inner barrel every now and then, run a dry patch down afterwards, just be gentle with it when you get to the rear end of the barrel near the hop unit and turn the hop right off when cleaning. No need to take it apart any further than that unless you full in a swamp or something. Biggest new-player mistake is over maintenance, these things are simple machines with very closed systems, they're best off left alone until you've fired many tens of thousands of rounds.

 

 

Thank you so much! I was definitely going to end up doing the over maintenance mistake, whoops :P.

 

Ill check the connector tomorrow as I'm about to go off.

 

The handguard has a small 20mm rail on it, so i could bolt something on there.

 

The gun comes with a 7.4 NiMh, should I just discard that and get some LiPos then?

 

Finally; the mags, as its a Cybergun AK I'd assume the CYMA mags would fit, as I'd rather mid-cap than high-cap(I hate the sound).

 

 

Thanks again, extremely helpful for a new guy :)

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If you want a foregrip then yeah try it out, you can pick one up cheap enough but as I say, get a short/stubby model, even that will get in the way a bit and a long one will completely prevent you from inserting magazines.

 

It's probably an 8.4v NiMh and it's probably cheap as hell. Take it to the dump and dispose of it properly. You can buy new NiMhs if you really want but there's honestly no need, 7.4 Lipos work, they're cheap,very lightweight, very efficient and do not need to be treated like ming vases despite what some ill-informed scare mongers say, you have to keep an eye on any type of battery anyway and almost every smartphone has a lipo inside it.

Component shop is a superb source for all your gun-powering needs and I've found their customer service to be excellent whenever I've contacted them.

 

I believe Cybergun rebrands CYMA AEGs usually yes, you've probably got a CYMA. There's never any guarantees with airsoft, even with some of the more expensive brands at times, but generally brand matching is about the best chance you can give yourself. Plastic midcaps are usually cheap and resilient, incredibly simple to load and use, light, no rattling - most effective skirmish choice all round.

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If you want a foregrip then yeah try it out, you can pick one up cheap enough but as I say, get a short/stubby model, even that will get in the way a bit and a long one will completely prevent you from inserting magazines.

 

It's probably an 8.4v NiMh and it's probably cheap as hell. Take it to the dump and dispose of it properly. You can buy new NiMhs if you really want but there's honestly no need, 7.4 Lipos work, they're cheap,very lightweight, very efficient and do not need to be treated like ming vases despite what some ill-informed scare mongers say, you have to keep an eye on any type of battery anyway and almost every smartphone has a lipo inside it.

Component shop is a superb source for all your gun-powering needs and I've found their customer service to be excellent whenever I've contacted them.

 

I believe Cybergun rebrands CYMA AEGs usually yes, you've probably got a CYMA. There's never any guarantees with airsoft, even with some of the more expensive brands at times, but generally brand matching is about the best chance you can give yourself. Plastic midcaps are usually cheap and resilient, incredibly simple to load and use, light, no rattling - most effective skirmish choice all round.

 

New pictures here:

 

http://imgur.com/a/XRWAm

 

They include the battery, charger, two more gun pics, the battery connector and the rail.

 

Is taping a flashlight and/or laser sight to the side/both sides viable with this type of rail?

 

And what type of connector is that for the battery?

 

Additionally watch flashlight/laser do you recommend?

 

 

Also going against what you said about LiPo etc.. I really do prefer the idea of NiHm in the AK, as it comes with it, and LiPo apperently can wear down guns faster :/

 

So would this charger:

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/600ma-smart-charger-for-7-2-8-4-9-6v-battery-packs.html

 

Work for this battery:

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/9-6v-1600mah-2-3a-nimh-mini-battery-pack-4x2.html

 

 

I assume it will also depend on what connector my gun has (Which i have no idea, please check pictures and tell me).

 

 

EDIT:

 

Also this grip?

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-grips-and-stocks/dboys-knights-type-stubby-20mm-ris-ras-foregrip-black.htm

 

Or this

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-grips-and-stocks/acm-ris-forward-grip-with-rails-black.htm

 

 

I'd assume the stubby one, but the rail says its a 'weaver' rail not a RIS, not completely sure these will work with it?

Edited by LewisUK

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New pictures here:

 

http://imgur.com/a/XRWAm

 

They include the battery, charger, two more gun pics, the battery connector and the rail.

 

Is taping a flashlight and/or laser sight to the side/both sides viable with this type of rail?

 

And what type of connector is that for the battery?

 

Additionally watch flashlight/laser do you recommend?

 

The tape thing was half a joke, but you probably won't have room for a grip and a light so if you want both you'll pretty much have to go ghetto and tape on a simple torch. Plenty of decent, cheap LED flashlights on eBay. DO NOT bother with a laser, they're pointless and potentially dangerous for others as it is, having one taped on your handguard would literally be the most useless thing in the world,save the money for better boots or green fees or something (and you only actually need a light if you're playing indoor CQB sites or night games of course). Nobody who's been playing a few years runs a laser, there's a reason for it, save your money, please.

 

Connector looks like Large Tamiya I'd say, should be since you've got a full sized fixed stock. Definitely don't bother with that supplied battery, if something says 'High End', then it isn't.

 

Also going against what you said about LiPo etc.. I really do prefer the idea of NiHm in the AK, as it comes with it, and LiPo apperently can wear down guns faster :/

 

So would this charger:

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/600ma-smart-charger-for-7-2-8-4-9-6v-battery-packs.html

 

Work for this battery:

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/9-6v-1600mah-2-3a-nimh-mini-battery-pack-4x2.html

 

 

I assume it will also depend on what connector my gun has (Which i have no idea, please check pictures and tell me).

BS based on ignorance. A 7.4 Lipo is almost exactly the equivalent of a 9.6v NiMh as you've got there. You'll have bought and sold at least 3 more guns before you shoot your gun enough for a 7.4 LiPo to have worn your gun down anymore than a standard 8.4v NiMh, let alone a 9.6. There is no magic craziness with LiPos, it's electricity powering your motor and a LiPo just does that better in every way.

 

Put it whis way, would you buy VHS tapes right now? No? How about a minidisc player?

 

Don't buy NiMh batteries. The mis-information surrounding lipos is as rife as the myth about 'UKARA licenses', don't believe any of it.

 

Also this grip?

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-grips-and-stocks/dboys-knights-type-stubby-20mm-ris-ras-foregrip-black.htm

 

Or this

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-grips-and-stocks/acm-ris-forward-grip-with-rails-black.htm

 

 

I'd assume the stubby one, but the rail says its a 'weaver' rail not a RIS, not completely sure these will work with it?ni

 

I think you might struggle to load even with the shorter one tbh, I'd go shorter than that. Don't worry about anything that says 'weaver', just more BS based on ignorance of the facts, they all mean the same thing as far as the writer is actually concerned (in reality they don't, but weaver rails basically don't exist anymore) and if the parts don't fit together it's only because cheap airsoft stuff is built badly.

 

RIS is also a misused term, accessory rails are 'Picatinny' or 20mm. RIS and RAS are types of actual handguard for M4s/AR-15s, not a name for the common rail interface that's used on all sorts of guns. But again, airsoft shops don't bother with differentiating most of the time.

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-Snip-

 

Oh okay, well I guess some good old electrical tape (or maybe some black zipties) shall do the trick!

 

I play CQB mainly, so a flashlight is VERY helpful, at the moment i hold it (a £2 small silver LED from a surplus store) and have to balance my gun on my wrist (Very bad idea.) I'll avoid a laser (I actually got a laser to the eye last game, fun times.)

 

A bit more research looks like its a mini-tamiya (the colour and design of it) Im not sure, i can buy adapters if i screw up.

 

 

I'll highly consider getting two LiPos then - When it comes to storage, do i need to run them down before? Because another reason I wanted NiHms was for ease of use, you can store them with charge and they'll be fine to fully charge before the game. (No real idea how to de-charge things)

 

 

 

I found a ultra stubby grip, think that'll work?

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-grips-and-stocks/acm-gs-style-ultra-stubby-20mm-ris-ras-foregrip-black.htm

 

 

Thanks for clearing that up, because it looked like there was hardly anything for a 'weaver' rail, haha :)

 

 

Also, I have these set up on patrol base in basket:

http://image.prntscr.com/image/d91c258168f3499587895bdaf66bea56.png

 

Those seem like generalised CYMA mags and should work, just double checking incase im buying crap, need to save as much £ as i can!

 

EDIT:

Oh also, with LiPo as you seem to know what you're on about:

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1600mah-20c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html

 

That would work fine? What's all of the different C ratings? I know you said any 20/25c would work, but for future reference.

Edited by LewisUK

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Mini and Large Tamiya are the same shape and always made of the same colour plastic, but you probably do have a large. If your manual doesn't say, send a picture with a ruler next to the connector to C-S, or post it here and I'll tell you.

 

DO NOT run down your LiPos, as I said, that's the only time they can be dodgy; it's the opposite with NiMh. Buy 2, swap at lunch time, then put a bit of juice back in to them at the end of the day. They don't need to be full, just don't let them go empty.

 

I'd imagine that grip should be ok yeah, as will the mags. No idea about that sling or bag I'm afraid, they might be ok but cheap, china made stuff can fall apart 1st outing.. or last for ages. No way of knowing. Slings are obvoiusly extremely simple but it takes better work and materials to make a gun bag that won't disintegrate after a couple of uses, so you might be better off looking at some alternative (any long thin bag will do, don't be sucked in to thinking it needs to say 'gun bag' in its' name).

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Mini and Large Tamiya are the same shape and always made of the same colour plastic, but you probably do have a large. If your manual doesn't say, send a picture with a ruler next to the connector to C-S, or post it here and I'll tell you.

 

DO NOT run down your LiPos, as I said, that's the only time they can be dodgy; it's the opposite with NiMh. Buy 2, swap at lunch time, then put a bit of juice back in to them at the end of the day. They don't need to be full, just don't let them go empty.

 

I'd imagine that grip should be ok yeah, as will the mags. No idea about that sling or bag I'm afraid, they might be ok but cheap, china made stuff can fall apart 1st outing.. or last for ages. No way of knowing. Slings are obvoiusly extremely simple but it takes better work and materials to make a gun bag that won't disintegrate after a couple of uses, so you might be better off looking at some alternative (any long thin bag will do, don't be sucked in to thinking it needs to say 'gun bag' in its' name).

 

Alright, i'll get a picture tomorrow when I can :)

 

Ill keep that in mind, i may get a fireproof bag to keep them in :P

 

 

And what about the edit i did above?

 

Thanks again!

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I have a bag like that for transport and an ammo tin for storage. Not because it's really necessary, but everyone should be storing batteries that way anyway, regardless of type. NiMh can go wrong as well.

 

I don't know a lot about the real small details regarding electrics to be honest, I know C is the discharge rating so a higher C means more juice going to your motor (in some form, not sure whether it's Amps or Volts or some other magic). Basically 20 or 25 are fairly tame, good solid choice for most guns. AFAIK 30/35 or above are more for high FPS/ROF guns with better quality internals.

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I have a bag like that for transport and an ammo tin for storage. Not because it's really necessary, but everyone should be storing batteries that way anyway, regardless of type. NiMh can go wrong as well.

 

I don't know a lot about the real small details regarding electrics to be honest, I know C is the discharge rating so a higher C means more juice going to your motor (in some form, not sure whether it's Amps or Volts or some other magic). Basically 20 or 25 are fairly tame, good solid choice for most guns. AFAIK 30/35 or above are more for high FPS/ROF guns with better quality internals.

 

Looking into it LiPo's seen like you need a MOSFET(?) to help it not kill the gun, as well as getting a voltage checker to make sure it doesn't drop below 3.2V, an alarm for your gun to make sure you dont deplete it too far(?)as well as ensuring you store it at 50% charge, not leaving its side while it charges, it seems a lot of hassle, especially for a new player with very little knowledge about batteries and airsoft in general. (I will only be going every 3 weeks ish)

 

I know you are all Anti NiHm, but it really does seem from a number of youtube videos and forums that NiHm is better for beginners (You dont need to really actively monitor the voltages, can be stored in pretty much any state and so on.)

 

I'm going to measure the stock internals (for battery sizes) and the connector when I get home from work. - I'll post pictures here after to confirm the connector type and any battery & charger recommendations (LiPo and NiHm).

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Looking into it LiPo's seen like you need a MOSFET(?) to help it not kill the gun, as well as getting a voltage checker to make sure it doesn't drop below 3.2V, an alarm for your gun to make sure you dont deplete it too far(?)as well as ensuring you store it at 50% charge, not leaving its side while it charges, it seems a lot of hassle, especially for a new player with very little knowledge about batteries and airsoft in general. (I will only be going every 3 weeks ish)

 

I know you are all Anti NiHm, but it really does seem from a number of youtube videos and forums that NiHm is better for beginners (You dont need to really actively monitor the voltages, can be stored in pretty much any state and so on.)

 

I'm going to measure the stock internals (for battery sizes) and the connector when I get home from work. - I'll post pictures here after to confirm the connector type and any battery & charger recommendations (LiPo and NiHm).

 

 

Nimh batteries are fine, LiPO batteries are better.

 

You don't NEED a mosfet to run LiPo unless you plan on using 11.1v to protect the trigger contacts from arcing (to be fair this is also a good idea on higher voltage nimh setups). Mosfets ARE good if you want to improve trigger response by eliminating the weak point in the electrical circuit (namely the trigger contacts) and that holds true regardless of what type of batteries you use (although the higher surge rate achievable with LiPo batteries adds to the improvement).

 

You can quite happily leave a LiPo to charge all on it's ownsome, in your house (ie not in a bombproof bunker surrounded by fire blankets and buried in peat as some would have you believe). As long as the batteries are charged sensibly using a proper balance charger then there is no more risk of starting a fire than making toast (although the tip of "don't poke it with a knife" holds true in both cases). I've never bothered to charge mine to 50% to store them as that is really only relevant to storing them for several months at a time. If you're going regularly (once a month or so) then they'll be fine, charge them, use them, charge them again the night before you go again. I've done that for three years and never burnt my house down or opened a portal to hell or whatever is supposed to happen.

 

Yes, you shouldn't let the cell voltage drop below 3.2 v but your gun will start to slow down way before that happens. If you buy a decent battery with the right capacity then you will avoid deep discharging them anyway. LiPo's are nothing to be scared of. But then as you say, nimh batteries are fine to start with.

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Thank you Lozart for that sensible post based on facts and experience.

 

I'm in the same position, only use LiPos, plenty of my guns don't have MOSFETs (no issues). I swap batteries mid-day so they've never run low anyway, but you can easily tell when they're getting there just by the way your gun's shooting, no need for an alarm. Personally I rarely play so I charge mine back up after games, but that's (as mentioned) not a necessity and again, never had any issues. Leave them unsupervised all the time when charging, they're in no more danger of bursting in to flames while charging than NiMh are, they both get hot. You also cannot store NiMh 'in any condition', leaving them fully charged degrades them over time, buying dischargers for them was very common in the day. Due to that fact my 'battery hassle'/maintenance time decreased significantly when I switched to LiPo.

 

One day folks might learn that LiPos are fine for everyone, but breaking down the bullshit that's already out there on the interwebs is seriously bloody hard work...

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-snip-

 

Well you guys have persuaded me, I'll be getting two 7.4v LiPo batteries and a fireproof bag to keep em in :)

 

 

Links to connector length and stock length(Roughly):

http://imgur.com/a/IVFGH

 

 

Based on them pictures, what connector is it and which 7.4v LiPo do you suggest from componentshop?

 

I'll grab this charger as you suggested: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/quickshop/index/view/path/1000ma-1500ma-li-po-li-fe-charger-for-2s-3s-lipo-life-battery-packs-complete-with-psu.html

 

And i was looking at this battery pack: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1600mah-20c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html

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Didn't need any measurements other than the plug itself tbh, but it looks like mini tamiya going by what you've shown there. Measured one here, they're just under an inch long (large tamiya are just over an inch).

 

You've got the dimensions of the space in your stock, so just buy a pack that'll fit, C-S details all that for each one they sell.

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Didn't need any measurements other than the plug itself tbh, but it looks like mini tamiya going by what you've shown there. Measured one here, they're just under an inch long (large tamiya are just over an inch).

 

You've got the dimensions of the space in your stock, so just buy a pack that'll fit, C-S details all that for each one they sell.

 

 

Alright thanks!

 

http://image.prntscr.com/image/be56e7c7688c4674a603bdb9e254745f.png

 

What does the Mini Tamiya A/S mean?

 

I assume id just go with standard mini tamiya.

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Honestly, no idea. If google doesn't know, e-mail C-S.

 

Just in case anyone else wonders and comes across this thread, it means Airsoft - If you have a mini tamyia connector and buying from component shop, you need to select the A/S option. :)

 

EDIT:

Just ordered everything, will let you know if I have any major issues with it!

Edited by LewisUK

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