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Snakeeyes75

Warm Motor

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Evening all, I got my TM Scar L CQC back from KOA last week. I took it out for it's maiden flight on Manday and it was pretty damn cool, one thing I noticed though was a warmth to the grip. I tried it again at home and after a mag it started getting warm, not crazy hot but definately warm. I popped the motor out and it had heated up a bit. Is that normal?? (I'm so not used to AEG's) all worked and sounded sweet.

 

Gearbox Spec:

M90 spring

Lylax guide

Recoil service

Steel Bushings

Prometheus gearing (Same ratio as stock) all shimmed

Lonex head

Spectre FET

7.4 1450 Mah lipo

Stock 1000rpm TM Motor

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Auto bursts and semi spamming will give out a bit of warmth, but tbh if KoA have done it right it should be fine. Yes the bare motor will feel quite warm, but in the grip and with gloves on you shouldn't really feel it unless you are really letting rip quite a bit.

 

Some motors do run warmer than others, you should be drawing about 12 to 15 amps I reckon on a stock gun with a mild spring like that so I strongly doubt if it's getting very warm - especially if it sounds good.

 

Without actually have a feel - ooh ergh missus, I can't say for sure but reckon it is quite mild on the temp. When you take the real pi$$ then things really do run very very warm

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Spectre MOSFET probably has active braking enabled. That'll cause the motor to get a bit warm, nothing to worry about.

Funnily enough I was just reading about that. Yeah, I think Sam sets it to max as there's no anti reverse latch now so I assume there's a spark every time it's slowed?

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No AR latch ???

 

I thought that though they said yes it could be removed, they now recommend that people keep it to prevent "rolling back"

The AB only kicks in for a short time only to slow motor when trigger is released

it isn't a mofo stepper motor - it is still a free running motor when it stops

 

I admit not played with AB so I should best shut up - but sure I read they now suggest keeping AR latch & not dropping it as originally thought you could

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Try turning it down to medium or even low, EG1000 isn't a mental motor so overspin is easy to stop.

 

It could already be set on low. Sam's off for the week but I'll pm him next week to see how he set it up.

 

No AR latch ???

 

I thought that though they said yes it could be removed, they now recommend that people keep it to prevent "rolling back"

The AB only kicks in for a short time only to slow motor when trigger is released

it isn't a mofo stepper motor - it is still a free running motor when it stops

 

I admit not played with AB so I should best shut up - but sure I read they now suggest keeping AR latch & not dropping it as originally thought you could

 

No idea tbh, it's Sam's build so I have faith in him knowing what he's doing lol. I'm assuming it's a case of giving the Spectre complete running on the gearbox by taking it out.

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No AR latch ???

 

I thought that though they said yes it could be removed, they now recommend that people keep it to prevent "rolling back"

The AB only kicks in for a short time only to slow motor when trigger is released

it isn't a mofo stepper motor - it is still a free running motor when it stops

 

I admit not played with AB so I should best shut up - but sure I read they now suggest keeping AR latch & not dropping it as originally thought you could

I agree.

 

I've fitted ASCU's from gen 1 to 4, AWS Raptors and the other one they did (can't remember what it's called now) and a couple of BTC's Spectre and Chimera models. I've tried all sorts of motor combinations with them. I've always had problems when not replacing the ARL, even with AB on max. As a result, I always put the ARL back in now. There's no good reason, in my opinion, to leave it out other than minor convenience on assembly. In all fairness, if you can fit these gadgets, I'm sure you aren't struggling too much with an ARL.

 

In response to the OP, as said, motors get warm, especially when active braking is used. It's normal :)

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