Supporters Sitting Duck Posted February 22, 2016 Supporters Share Posted February 22, 2016 DO NOT PUT SILICONE DOWN YOUR BARREL !!!! if you get a very slight mist of it on the bucking in the hop you will screw it and have to strip it right down/replace Actually silicone is ok - wait for the rows to start.... No it is ok down the barrel but NEVER anywhere near bucking...... you could use a slight slight damp - well I mean a light misting on a cloth with cleaning rag but only a real slight amount - really slight amount and clean say 50 to 75% of barrel well away from bucking then use a clean dry to polish or buff the barrel dry - hence you don't need much at all What I would do for the first few times cleaning a barrel is just use a dry rag only !!!!!! main thing is to get the crap that builds up in there - honest if you get bucking contaminated with silicone - ya f*cked !!!! when you feel up to it then first learn how to use silicone..... spray a small amount on something - not kitchen floor unless you like ice skating.... polish it, and ensure you buff it with a dry cloth = slippery silky ice rink now if you got a mist on ya bucking - your bb's will travel less than half their usual distance as they won't have the hop/spin anymore no grip on bb = no magnus/backspin = greatly reduced flight or as we say - $HIT !!!!!! So for the time being - forget silicone oil in barrel etc.... yes I think it improves but only if you know what you are doing so to avoid any early regrets - resist the temptation to use it - barrel can't be that dirty I advise anybody to learn a little bit on using the silicone first, then you will understand it more Glad ya had a good day - bar nettles, and gun seems ok now (rewire - it will be fine for yonks n yonks I'd say, it is fetted, ya gun works, if it ain't broke don't try to fix it, enjoy it while it works) DO NOT GET A FIREHAWK HC05 DSG this gun has no semi, not so great performance really and though it is supposed to be for cqb you won't be able to use it for cqb as most places are semi only (Normal FireHawk is fine but they are loud, any gun really short M4, G36c, AK74's MP5k's - some have folding stock options) or your gun is fine, just learn how to use it better and get a nice Glock pistol or shotgun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted February 22, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted February 22, 2016 Must I post this every time: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28054-cleaning-with-isopropyl-alcohol-vs-silicone/ Basically: clean with isopropyl alcohol apply thin layer of silicone to make surface 'more slippery' before cleaning off don't get silicone anywhere near your hop up rubber as it will warp it or - at the very least - provide less traction on the BB as it passes over it (resulting in less spin) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted February 22, 2016 Supporters Share Posted February 22, 2016 wise words indeed but use ultra caution when you feel ready... I advise putting just bare cleaning rod down barrel very very carefully to see where the hop is you should feel a slight resistance - DO NOT FORCE IT that is the hop's nub (you should dial the hop off but we are trying to find the hop/nub and then stay away from it) now mark where the rod is but say an inch or 25.4mm for metric youngsters out there 1 inch before the limit/mark - that is where you should clean to imho no more when doing the final clean and/or it is full of crud then you could go 1/4 to 1/2 further but that is absolute max seriously - do not get any lightly and I mean lightly moist rag with silicone ANYWHERE near bucking or you will regret it Hence just clean ya barrel a few times with just a bit of tissue - alchowipes are good and when you got the hang of it then maybe try silicone - a tiny tiny bit & polish with a dry cloth but for now gun is new so unless you are using crap recycled bb's from the floor I'd say you will fine on a dry wipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anno Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Thank you SD + Prof, I will stay away from the silicone oil, I will stick with a dry rag for now. Will mark up on the rod as you have said. I was aware about not going near the hop. But not clued up on the reasoning why as such. Thank you for the information/ link, I had a quick look but will give it greater viewing tonight. I saw that particular firehawk only had full auto, odd as I don't know any sites which would allow that. Not for CQB anyway. I do have a TM G17, it makes sense to just use the Pred (maybe with a foregrip, torch) and Glock for CQB. Certainly makes it a lot easier on the bank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan85 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Hi guys, hope you dont mind me jumping onto this topic. I bought a G&G GC16 wildhog a few weeks back and used it for the 1st time on sunday 28th feb, had exactly the same issues as Anno, worked for a bit then cut out etc etc. I've got 9.6v ni and they just dont seem to last any length of time at all. Spoke to a guy from zeroone today, where i bought my gun and he said the ETU was 'sensitive'. Also he mentioned that i could swap these for 11.1v, but G&G wont cover the gun if you use those so my warranty would be worthless if i burnt it out. He stated that they were expecting to get some replacement ETUs in at some point but id be responsible for postage for the gun to be sent back and repaired! Any thoughts / advice would be appreciated as im quite miffed and unsure on how to progress. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted February 29, 2016 Supporters Share Posted February 29, 2016 First what does hog manual say.... Is it in manual working with 7.4v battery So under description of goods act it is not as described So you can return it as faulty.... Also how the f*ck would they know you used 11.1v for absolute sure your burst options are so limited due to tiny stock AND JUST WTF ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO DO ATM ??? some units are faulty, G&G's fault not the owners So if owners have to pay for faulty item to be returned then G&G and/or retailer should compensate in my book as a decent return of favour showing good customer practise.... Heck even if zero one or whoever offered a bag of bb's to try to compensate for the inconvenience But alas don't hold ya breath All owners experiencing problems need to consider options of either return item for refund Which to be honest if z1 n G&G don't do something better I would say get money back on £250 guns that should work and buy a Krytac elsewhere coz it f*cking stinks tbh Zero One bragged on FaceBook about a little certificate from G&G saying great f*cking retailer blah blah blah... Yeah ? Well chuck in a bag of bb's then to make up for hassle n owners having to pay return postage due to poor G&G quality control Sorry going off on one But I can't day for deffo do this or that I can't see how the f*ck they could prove you killed a unit when it isn't working properly anyway I'd keep it on small tamiya, run with tiny 11.1v and see how it goes.... But it is up to you, though think carefully if you are satisfied with G&G and Zero One's response I don't think I will any more G&G's or think very very hard before diving in again I'm afraid Last 2 G&G's haven't been as good as I was expecting So they gotta up their game a bit in my mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan85 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Thanks for the response sitting duck. Ive emailed G&G and zeroone so just debating options. Zeroone said theyd collect the item and fix it under warranty if it is found to be faulty which is good news. However if for whatever reason they dont believe it is faulty then it would be at my cost. Im convinced it is the MOSFET and even G&G referenced possible replacement of this so they must know its an issue. Dont see how it cant be faulty but conscious it is unpredictable in terms of when it cuts out. It is frustrating especially when you are trying to get into the hobby and spend half a skirmish trying to sort your gun out! Lesson learned for next time i think ill go for a gun thats been out for a bit longer! On a seperate note do you think there is any real value in me switching from Ni to Li batteries? I understand they are generally better, but not sure uts worth the hassle if they replace the MOSFET. Cheers Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 3, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 3, 2016 First what does hog manual say.... Zero One says 11.1v isn't covered YEAH ??? = look in the f*cking manual Z1 http://guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf says 3 cell Li-Po 11.1v or G&G's G-11-041 battery 20c 3 stick mothf*cker So when Zero One stop talking pout their ar$e and actually learn wtf stuff they are selling.... it seems that G&G are now saying in later model manuals that they recommend 11.1v lipo's the lame ferrite motor lacks real grunt and can do with a bit more zest plus trigger contacts will be fine as it is using a mosfet but more importantly..... If you don't use more juice than 7.4v or 9.6v nimah the gun is w@nked !!!! re-read ya manual and it should say in there 11.1v 20c 3 stick bad boy li-po get the component shop li-po's don't order a f*cking G&G one from Zero One ffs edit - ffs just read the predator battleship grey manual too http://guay2.com/web/manual/CM16%20PREDATOR_G.pdf That says same thing 11.1v lipo recommended - jeez not being funny but peeps you gotta read ya manuals too now n then ok we are blokes - but normally when things go a bit pear shape we do tend to have a quick glance at manual - just in case.... TBH - the retailers need to stop saying 9.6v if it says 11.1v in manual c'mon everybody - just get the 11.1v lipo and be done with it or just send the f*cking thing back ok maybe my FFR2 manual said 7.4v but these guns/models were the first batches along with SR-L range with new ETU's seems that G&G are now saying 11.1v lipo is fine but not too much 20c rating well you won't gert much else in that nice looking but tiny battery space GOS-v3 stock so get that component shop 11.1v lipo and get out shooting at last Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan85 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Hmmm not quite. The manual you have there is for the CM16 not GC16 and you are right it says a 11.1v lipo but in my manual it interesting reccomends either a 9.6 Ni, or 7.4 lipo. See attached. Not sure why though as the GC is meant to be higher spec intermediate not entry level like the CM, so youd expect it to also be ok withh 11.1v lipo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 3, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 3, 2016 Ahhhhh - your manual is the same as my FFR2 says recommend 7.4v or 9.6v Zero One recently added the bit about these guns must have 9.6v (but still don't work that great on 9.6v) My guess is that G&G changed the ETU/Mosfet unit in the stock tube and though they may of worked on lower juice at first (Launch SR-L's and stuff) They changed or altered stuff - maybe a voltage regulator - I'm not a electronics guru So to ensure guns worked they wrote the manuals for later guns or revised the manuals to clearly state 11.1v lipo only as I linked to Maybe this or maybe that - but can't see them deliberately making 2 or more types of mosfet units they cocked up (again) or altered stuff without telling us - or keep changing their f*cking minds/story If you got the "wrong" unit in there - they G&G or retailer should pay for the item to brought up to spec but doubt if they Z1 or G&G will fully reimburse everybody - but a bag of bb's maybe to cover postage would be something I really think 11.1v lipo will be fine is my gut feeling think even with a new unit in there it still may not run properly on 7.4v like manual says plus motor is a bit lame anyway As I said it is up to you - but reckon there are some strange mix ups that G&G need to sort out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan85 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Yep its an interesting one. To be fair Z1 said they would cover the costs if it is found to be a manufacturing fault. My concern is this could be a matter of opinion so dont want to send it bk and risk that cost until im sure as if they dont believe it is faulty ill have to foot the bill. I tried it again tonight on my 9.6 Ni, after cycling my battery a couple of times and it seemed to work ok. Got off about 500 rounds and didnt cut out. Think ill try it at another skirmish soon and if i get more issues ill deffo send it back. It does state on the Z1 webby that any use of 11.1v lipos for standard stock guns will void their warranty due to added stress on the motor / gears etc. See how i get on and will wait for further info from G&G. Thanks again for the advice though and glad i found this forum for future! Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 4, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 4, 2016 It isn't a stock gun though Normally most of us will not run 11.1v on classic ol'skool trigger switch guns coz the carbon and arcing that takes place on higher juice/amps The ETU and the 3rd burst MOSFET eliminates the carbon/arcing. Other guns that have microswitches installed just burn out very quickly unless a MOSFET is fitted. Google some images of burnt out trigger contacts That is why a MOSFET is a very good idea and why many have MOSFET & rewired thicker wire with deans etc... The stock G&G's without mosfet's yes wear & damage can quickly take place The ETU's though are much more protected As said how the heck they will know for sure you use 11.1v and all that Iike I said... Anyway it is a lame blue "powerful motor" in there I'd say If it blows up then lmk I'll send ya one for cost of postage but reckon you will be fine coz you will only being running mild 20c 11.1v with that tiny stock. To be honest, reckon ya nimah's will start to lose their effective holding charge anyway before then Lipo's are really the modern way forward Myself tend to stick to 7.4v and a neodym motor that performs same if not better than a lame ferrite motor on 11.1v - roughly works out about the same speed/response Up to you, but them ETU's are a bit hit n miss and G&G know that or why would they be acknowledging the need to replace some of them See how ya go Happy shooting If she plays up, borrow a 11.1v and see for yourself Only guns wirh MOSFETs I say this, old school aeg's you will fry your contacts over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delbert Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Hi Guys, I hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread? I have recently got hold of an almost new G&G GC16 SR-L for a good price, a price point I could not ignore. The gun is all metal and and only a few months old and I am glad to say the ETU works just fine and has so far not skipped a beat on me. I am currently using this gun on 9.6v nimh batteries but would like to swap over to an 11.1v LIPO. I have been looking for a 11.1v LIPO that would fit my crane stock and have come across a number of discussions on this subject but I still find myself worried about ordering the wrong sizing and confused on which LIPO charger to order, there are just so many chose from. Can anyone recommend a 11.1V lipo that is known to fit the G&G stock and good LIPO charger that is known to fit and work well without killing my poor wallet? Any advice or suggestions would be gratefully received. Regards Delbert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anno Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Little update from myself on this, played 3 times using the 11.1v lipo from component shop = http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html no problems here, works great now. I'm a huge fan of the 3 round burst also. That battery also fits rather well if you keep the mosfet in the stock tube. 2 cells down one side, last cell on the other. During my discussion with G&G via email, I was informed they would be updating their details on what battery to use so I guess that is why the latest manual online has 11.1v lipo as the recommended battery to use. Can anyone recommend a 11.1V lipo that is known to fit the G&G stock and good LIPO charger that is known to fit and work well without killing my poor wallet? As for charger, I am using a Imax b6 copy (did not realise it was a copy at the time of purchase) it works well enough but I would suggest going for either a real Imax b6 by skyrc or Turnigy Accucel 6. You don't have to use a smart charger for your batteries but I recommend that you do. SD will be able to provide you with great information than I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 8, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 8, 2016 Cheers for update on this..... Gun is probably pushing 20rps on 11.1v which as long as you don't change motor to a stronger/faster neodym one it should be fine Normally we tend to advise not using high juice due to trigger contacts burning up but gun has the mosfet so it will be fine plus the limited space means you can't shove in a massive 11.1v 60c son of a bitch lipo in there just a modest 20c one Ideally once you get into 20's or above correcting AoE should be done but as long as you don't go nutz as I said it should be ok I've broke pistons when really taking the piss pushing stock guns near 30 on neodym + 11.1v - so keep stock motor in there Over time 6 to 12 months say it may need a service - sorry G&G owners but them bronzey bushings do wear a bit quick so if/when your gun's fps drops or it needs a service then correct AoE and stuff when gun gets its first service though it should be fine for a while - maybe a year depending on how much use it gets/shots fired/how your luck goes I can see in weird way why G&G cuts out at low juice - ya 11.1v cells can get damaged once they get below 3.0v or 9v total which is not as obvious to people as opposed to 7.4v lipo dropping to 6.0v Yes it is a shock or a pain to owners who have bought suggested/recommended batteries already but you are kind of stuck unless you return the item for replacement - still an option under warranty or just get the 11.1v lipo's and get out and use these nice sexy - but a bit qwirky - still lovely though - modern G&G M4's Chargers - B6 type is better than B3 type but just read manual first - or get an easier to use B3 but takes longer to charge Get 2 batteries and change over at lunchtime and you should be fine avoid the lipo running out of juice (probably get away with just one battery but really depends how mad you go through ammo - still a spare battery is wise if you can afford it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delbert Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks for the advice on the chargers guys. What a great community you have here :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 9, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks for the advice on the chargers guys. What a great community you have here :-) not me or him or anybody in particular... WE ALL have a great forum - there are loads of top diamond geezers on here a few I have met but loads n loads of the regulars are top notch and gladly helped me and probably hundreds like me there are loads of posts about that go into detail a lot more about chargers the clones are not bad if you monitor them but for general safety sake and peace of mind get a genuine one is best for a tiny bit more hobbyking sell both clone and genuine ones (buy from UK or EU - if not careful you can buy worldwide-Hong-Kong and takes a while to arrive) Alas couldn't find a nice cheap 11.1v lipo to go in crane stock on HobbyKing when I last looked so the componentshop 11.1v lipo is about only one or two options atm (god knows what a G&G lipo would be ) anyway component shop are a great shop and also sell stuff on ebay right waffling again - loads of info out there I've learnt loads by being a nosey bastid and searching for some other poor sod's bad luck/lucky findings (god bless google) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 12, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 12, 2016 minor update on my own FFR2 - was gonna take out this afternoon for a half day blast..... (was a smidge over the Mall's top 340 limit (345-ish)) so late morning having a blast in my garden and thought what is rps on 11.1v lipo expecting 20rps hmmm - 17.9rps - battery shows 12.08v that is a bit lower than expected.... pops open the pistol grip and expected to see a blue powerful ferrite motor from G&G.... Lame ol' stock 18,000rpm G&G one - ahhh that is why she is down a bit, them blue's are a bit quicker Hmmm - ok think I got a modest neodym motor around say 25% more zest that should be quick but not too mental pops that in - ooh much snappier - oh heck blew the fuse - lol 25a clear blade fuse, sure I got some 30a green blade fuses somewhere hmmm now I'm left looking at new blade fuse holder with led fuse blown warning light with better wire on it (12awg) then I'm left thinking pop in say silver wire at about 16.5awg instead of tiny thin stock wire then I gotta open her all up - hmm was trying not to do that just yet..... Yeah but may as well do AoE n stuff if I'm opening her up.... Damn it - now I'm thinking of this n that and where I start & stop and looks like I'm not going for a blast in the woods.... Oh well might be tearing hear apart this afternoon then and see what is inside..... might apply a bit more solder carefully to burst pcb board's main tracks to allow it draw extra juice on deans etc.... Yeah think by Sunday the gun will be another wrecked masterpiece but what the heck if she has to run on 11.1v lets see how much abuse the ETU & stuff can take if she can't hit 25+ on 11.1v with modest neodym then that is a bit lame to me like the burst gimmick so hope I don't kill it but wtf - let's have a rummage and see what I got and what is inside..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 14, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 14, 2016 F*ck it, ETU 3rnd burst fet is still blowing fuses looks like that w@nked gears inside are like toffee Think either its getting launched down the garden in bits or By the time I'm done very little inside this box will be G&G now I'm looking at conventional trigger, new gear set, new piston & piston head, nozzle, tappet plate, bushings only the trigger, cylinder & cylinder remain - ooh and some springs ffs - what started as a quick test - the whole ar$e has fallen out of this crap now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anno Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 OH good god! I'm glad you know what you are doing. That sounds scary to me, fear of the unknown! Small update from me, I bought a Noveske Flamepig flashhider from Madbull. Took the stock flash hider off the end, no problems there, just a small grub screw. Pick up the flamepig, all looks good, correct thread size - 14mm. Line up flamepig and barrel, begin to tighten...why isn't this working? Double check thread size...no that is correct, try again. What the F%&K am I doing wrong? Youtube G&G flash hider removal. Try again, still won't go on. Took me an hour to realise I had bought positive thread. That was a fun evening. I have also ruined a trigger switch for a torch by trying to shorten the cabling and resoldering. Ran out of flux, forgot to tin the end of the solder gun. Awful time all round. Lot's of lessons learn, 0 productivity to date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 14, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 14, 2016 Try again, still won't go on. Took me an hour to realise I had bought positive thread. Yup been there - bought a nice supressor - one of them cw & ccw at either end won't go on - wtf ???? turns out BOTH ends had cw threads - both ends go on Army R85 but nothing else ffs (well think G&P barrels use cw threads but not got one so don't quote me) Truth be told it is good to admit our screw ups - proves we are human lets others know they are not alone when they do something stupid plus by screwing up is how we attain wisdom - wise after the event as well as others can learn from our misfortunes Currently - dropped a zci/core set of speed gears in there and what a smooth turning difference already won't be first time a quick afternoon tweak turns into a week or so project (keep walking away thinking wtf is gonna crap out next) ps - I wouldn't say I know what I'm doing, well I'm very highly skilled in breaking guns but as to fixing them - I got a long long long long long long way to go I'm still blagging my way through everything everyday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 19, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 19, 2016 FFR A2 - jeeeez more like FFS !!!! now according to G&G themselves the gun has a 260mm barrel: http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/CM16_FFR_A2.php?lang=en yup - deffo says inner barrel 260mm - uhmm who the heck measured this coz it is only 200mm even compared the gun pic to mine coz there are FFR 12 9 SD and other variations..... Nope - exact same gun - same front end same holes in RIS etc..... 200mm I have measured it twice, did this guy who measured the barrel do the building on the mosfet unit as well ??? Now I can hardly talk either the way I break stuff but at least I can measure stuff properly well ok - I lie a bit to the other half about the length of one or two things but that is another matter.... So it is a shorter 200mm barrel not 260mm like the specs say This may explain why it was a little hot coz air/volume was out when ported for say 300mm barrel Ahh bollox to this - is there anything G&G can get right lately - or they really are just slapping any crap together now Oh and just realised now after changing cut off lever - was a bit wobbly If fitting an ETU as an upgrade - pah upgrade ??? If fitting ETU then they supply another tappet plate - yes I need to change that back to a normal one too I thought I could use the one on there - nope After getting cut off replaced it dawns on me - oh crap, there is no selector plate lifting up of cut-off lever on auto So in other words - the old ETU selector is like a trimmed back plate - in effect locked to semi only like a dmr plate So far I have replaced: SHS 8mm cross bushings - bronzey ones wear so damn quick Core ZCI 13:1 gears - junk G&G, swear they are getting worse or not properly treating them - burr crunch crap SHS metal lightened piston + atm a silent piston head - never a great fan of their piston heads, Shortstroked 3 teeth so far ETU removed and atm using old trigger switch but may change to a brand new new SHS one SHS cut-off lever & soon a new selector plate as I just discovered it will be semi only ffs Element AR latch - G&G is a fat bastid and had one break in a CM18 last year after only 4 or 5 outings SHS tappet plate - these can retract a little too far but have tried a modification to stop it bending/breaking SHS M4 nozzle - these can be a smidge too long but hopefully tappet mod will ensure it feeds very well - we shall see I think cylinder & cylinder head is all that remains atm plus a couple of springs - though tappet spring might need a coil cut off maybe Dremmel'd the box a bit for thicker wire - tiny bit more filing required perhaps The G26 or tactical G&G pistol grip has a bit more room to squeeze thicker wire past motor than normal CM grips Not sure of motor to use yet - either shs torque or mental mofo and keep it on 7.4v Mosfet - hmmm might have a 3034 as a plug in - couple of extra deans connectors but could swap out for a Kong easily or just run a 3034 in an unbroken wiring loom for almost zero resistance..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 27, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 27, 2016 Nearly getting there...... probably get it back together today but won't be testing until tomorrow as got to visit outlaws in case anybody is thinking of ripping out the ETU and some tweaks - just use silver low resistance wire coz it is a major pain in the ar$e trying to squeeze really thick wire n stuff in there.... Jeez G&G - move the AR a smidge ffs The stuff I'm using is actually thinner than Turnigy 16awg @ 3.1mm It is just a smidge thinner insulation coming in at about 2.75-2.8mm but still tight as a camel's ar$e in sand storm If anybody got Turnigy 16awg in a G&G v2 - there must very little left of the box is all I can say..... Also there is a pic showing that G&G v2's use larger trigger switch springs - a shs spring or other v2 spring don't fit on The lug is fatter than say other boxes and trying to stretch/bodge it on ends up like a pubic hair bent up spring.... Luckily I found a v3 trigger spring that I guess some people like G&G use in v2's anyway if anybody is interested - here is one major bollock-ache project made worse coz of thick wire and trigger mod etc.... Oh and would only fit that ultra swiss cheese shs piston to a fully enclosed box like this G&G v2 or say a v3 if it had an inspection window at the back - I wouldn't have used it - tend to think it might have caught on window with so very little rails/runners to support it otherwise... Just managed to get complete piston in @ 19.99gms - Short Stroked 3 teeth but 10mm piston spacer and bearing spring guide I'm using a silent piston head to see if I get here her a little more hush but may reduce final fps a tiny tiny bit - well we shall see Hoping that should equate to nearly what she was shooting aprox 345fps - damn sure that is a m115 spring in there at least... 205mm barrel not 260mm and pi$$ poor piston seal hitting 345+ - deffo no m100 or m105 me thinks - well we shall see..... aiming to make it somewhere about 330-ish to make it Mall compatible.... If it is below - I am looking at slightly longer barrel - 229 to 250 as I got suppressor on there to knock it up a smidge Oh well - that bit is for later on stuff...... http://imgur.com/a/4Ilel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted April 1, 2016 Supporters Share Posted April 1, 2016 Well what a ball-ache...... smashed the zci/core bevel to crap on 11.1v @39rps rebuilt box again but with SHS 12:1's SS 3 teeth coz piston was already 3 teeth short thought - hmm might used solid bushings or a mix of both solid & cross bushings yup go for 50/50 solid/cross bushings - uhm came unstuck using solid on top of bevel bevel was too low with a shim - heard these 8mm solid bushings can be a bit proud inside of box deffo too proud for bevel so sanded and sanded quite a bit - yup got some room but still only used a 0.08mm thinnest shim I could find..... thought drop the silent piston - yup did that but shimming might still be a bit out - won't use shs solid for top of bevel on next build or check before I glue all 6 bushings in place for good - jeez they ain't coming out or moving easily, or I would of replaced/swapped them about ya see (JB Weld is f*cking $hit hot, especially left overnight to properly go off) anyway tried a couple of motors and finally settling on this final output on a 3700mah 25c 7.4v - not fully fully charge about 8.15v: so yup should hit 30 - 32rps once I've finished wiring on a full lipo it is using a 275mm barrel but should be hidden by 100mm suppressor over the stock 205/210 outer barrel might be better with 250mm(G36c) or 229mm(ak74) or stock 205mm barrels for the Mall but hopefully this will last (fingers crossed) Nope not going for 11.1v as that would hit 45rps and might be close to PE - think it should be ok but ain't risking it This is kinda where I was expecting - maybe the 7.4v that gave only 22rps is a bit duff or something as expecting 26 on 13:1 with a 7.4v lipo Anyway - f*ck me it was a bit of a pain to swap it back from ETU - yes wiring & trigger mod added to fun but you really really need to check fire selector plate's as it has about 2 or 3mm trimmed off back or it catches inside the new G&G receivers This in effect means when you select auto it won't go to 3 o'clock but more like 1:30 so it don't fire correctly file/cut or trim it wrong - or in my case thought it was up by cut-off lever - trimmed that - big mistake and got another DMR tappet now for semi only It is the very bottom tail piece that needs trimming on both other selector plates - about 2 or 3mm and she selects auto correctly Stupid G&G ETU pile of junk........ (oops - said tappet - selector plate - my dumb ar$e mistake) pic says 1,000 words: main problem was the end of selector plate - needed to trim off about 2-3mm like I said a tiny file also at where cut-off lever rests to ensure she settles 101% down for perfect semi (probably not needed but trigger mod and was just wanting lever to settle 101%) do not trim any off the left of cut off lever or you get the DMR mod - like I did Doooooohhhhhhhhh So with G&G's ETU tappet and now with my first attempt went wrong - I got 2 x DMR tappet plates now Anyway - G&G, do us a favour if possible.... Sort out the ETU properly or just sell ya guns with or without ETU would of made this a bit easier Hoping to do a similar build on the 2nd FFR A2 but with the silver low resistance wire that don't need the box getting hacked to $hit Then compare how much difference the outcome is on mofo thick wire and what I believe is best/easiest wire upgrade for boxes like G&G's Phew...... - still a bit of tidying ad barrel testing but yeah - sort of pleased but just hope she lasts - should do as I'm going shs or RA only now (cheers pete from ak2m4 - stuff arrived but will use in next rebuild) Ran a quick test on one lipo and modest motor and was hitting 17.6 amp draw dunno what the specs say/mean as long as it friggin' works for a while still might open her up coz still not truely happy with shimming but could be motor angle itself Though I checked the gearbox to receiver then gearbox to pistol grip and adjusted the fittment hmmmm - poxy toy guns FINAL UPDATE: (in case anybody cares) dropped spring a little so can use at Mall and after trying a few hop combinations plus another few openings to check and adjust shimming (few openings - pah about 8 times or more ffs) 325fps - 25rps on 7.4v - 16.5amp draw - slower shs torque motor - feeds lovely @ 25rps than a little smidge mis-firing at 31rps (weird coz did a mod to ensure I have over 9mm total tappet/nozzle movement which should of helped feeding with a delay clip) shimming still isn't not prefectly buttery smooth as I hoped for but deffo better than she has been Pistol grip has been well mullered a bit - was sure it wasn't fitting flush on box/receiver - so kept hacking away at her think I may add say a 1mm -1.5mm spacer between grip & box next time - got longer grip screws on the way Think I'm gonna quit whilst she still works - atm tweaked an iffy 416 so hopefully that might behave a bit too the FFR cycles nicely - quickly completing the cycle - tried flicking trigger to leave her in dead zone but she is working ok on rare occasions - once or twice but was trying to check total nozzle retraction - trying to get her to just stop with nozzle fully forward coming off auto to semi she stopped in dead zone but like I said I was messing about trying to stop with nozzle fully forward Nice to see Zero One haven't published my review of ETU gun, still gave it 4/5 stars but just was truthful that ETU wasn't quite flawless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciangovern Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 ok new to forums I found this thread while looking for an answer I have a g&g etu I just put into my gun after frying my old mosfet with an 11.1 lipo is my new g&g etu able to handel an 11.1 lipo with a 25c discharge rate thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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