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New member - G&G CM16 Predator firing issue

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Hello all,


New member to the forums, fairly new to Airsoft also.


I have purchased a G&G CM16 Predator, tried it out the weekend at first and only.


Had an odd issue through out the game which forced me to stop using the gun. After firing around 20-30 BBs the gun would stop working. Nothing would happen at all when the trigger was pulled. No tension on the trigger, no sound of motor turning etc. I thought it was possibly my battery not being correctly charged so I tried a spare from a friend. Once plugged in the gun worked, but again, stopped after firing a number of BBs. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery would (sometimes) allow the gun to continue working but this was not always the case.


Someone mentioned this could be an issue with the shot detection and residue from the BBs being left on it. I have only used 0.20g Blasters with this gun. I am not aware of the BBs leaving any sort of residue but please correct me if I am wrong. If this is indeed the case how would I prevent this from happening?


I have tried to find out what this could be but I am not finding much information on the Predator anywhere. If anyone can offer some advice or has a Predator and has had this problem themselves, please let me know.

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Thanks people, been struggling to find anything on this issue, I guess that was because I was searching for the Gun name.


I will contact G&G, hopefully they can sort it out. If it is a general problem that is going to keep coming back with these poor G&G electronics, would it be an idea to rip it all out and go basic?

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aye as proff says contact the retailer - they are the ones you as a UK consumer need to take it up with


G&G homepage - look for guay2.com or something to see what other lemon guns the ETU is fitted to

but you contact retailer you bought the gun from - LWA Z1 etc.......


hope you get it sorted

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Thanks people, I will send it back to the retailer. Just so I know and don't get fobbed off, what can/should they do in order to fix this?

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it "seems" that the ETU has to run on 9.6v batteries or above

it "should" work on any battery but imho G&G have screwed up (again)


Therefore Zero One have recently added a bit about 9.6v battery and lower voltage it may shut down to protect the unit


So it appears that owners need to use higher voltage nimah 9.6v upwards

9.9v LiFe batteries or 11.1v LiPo's


Gun has the mosfet so it will be fine on 11.1v lipo

the stock motor will not smash the gearbox to bits

though putting in a neodym motor later could


reckon with 11.1v LiPo will hit say 20 to 22rps on stock motor

shs torque motor will hit over 30 to say 32rps - not wise out of box


annoying thing is the unit failing, being forced to buy more expensive 3 cell LiPo's

but really just pi$$ poor development and release


Before you send the thing back - maybe see if it works with a higher voltage battery ???


if the unit is shot then send it back asap

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Thanks SD, I have ordered a 11.1v LiPo. Should arrive tomorrow, I will test it out and report back. Thank you for all your help.

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No probs sir what forums and all of us on here are for......


I should have a cheap FFR 2 by about Wednesday which will be getting a damn good thrashing soon & at the Mall

so hopefully we will share your frustration and see for ourselves wtf G&G have ballsed up


fingers crossed the 11.1v lipo should sort it - until the fet burns out - kidding :)


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hahaha *cries*

I emailed G&G out of curiosity and this is what they replied with...


May we have what specification 11.1V Li-po battery you used on this model?

After discussing with our ETU researcher, who mentioned that it’s because the battery voltage is closer at the cut-off point of ETU system.

There are two possible causes, one is that the battery is almost out of electricity and requires charged, the other is that the quality of battery is bad and the voltage inside battery is weak .

That’s why it fired 20-30R, then stop firing, disconnect and reconnect battery, it worked the same.

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It is very very likely a gun requiring juice into double figures

but the annoying thing is that G&G and retailers - though not really retailers fault

should of made this perfectly clear to all of us


And tbh in the higher end guns like yours offered a battery or at very least a discount on a recommended one

coz to be truely honest a few tweaks and a 7.4v can perform better than many stock guns on 11.1v

and 7.4v are cheaper & smaller to fit in limited battery space


an OTT example is a crappy G&G dsg HC05 - stock on 11.1v lipo = 30 to 33rps

ripped it to f*ck - 40+ rps @ 300fps on 7.4v lipo - didn't try 11.1v coz that was plenty for me


Raider Long 357mm barrel with 12:1 gears ShortStroked 4 teeth on 7.4v - 33rps @ 330fps


probably won't last but proves many on here don't always HAVE to run on 11.1v

the above was a LOT of work but demonstrates 11.1v is not always needed


just friggin' annoying they G&G couldn't get it to work properly on all batteries

recommend lipo's must be a min 20c - no lower

if possible go for 25c burst rating - if it says 25-50c then take it as a 25c rating I was told

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I ordered




Am I going to struggle with this one? I thought this would be best as the battery space on the Pred isn't that roomy at all.

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You most likely won't struggle at all but will very likely need 2 of them

change battery at lunchtime is what most of us do


As I said when you go up an extra cell to 3 the size increases

and if 3 stick where does the extra stick go if stock tube isn't that deep with the mosfet unit in there


It is a friggin' pain to have this crap forced upon owners


your link didn't show up - says ooops page etc...... or out of stock


Look the newer GOS-V3 stock "seems" that it might have a bit more room inside the 2 tubes

well it seems but will find out when I get mine, but seems like it might have more room than the

normal basic crane stock fitted to Raiders - often not much more than about 19mm diameter


some other stocks on other guns have a more square battery tube that they don't round off inside so much

and these can get up to 22mm - sounds next to nothing but can make a difference between larger batteries fitting or not


I often fit a small fixed stubby stock to most guns for less restrictions on battery sizes




No I am not saying get one of those - coz it spoils the look if looks are a big concern to some owners

but then often the really cheap block batteries fit in really easily & cheaply




I'll start having a mess about with my gun when she arrives and post up some measurements as accurate as possible on the battery space

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That is odd, not sure why the link doesn't work. I just found the battery again on the website and it is the same hyper-link as I previously posted.


Providing the battery does indeed fix the issue, I will certainly be purchasing another, possibly 2 more just to be safe.


I do love the look of the Predator but if it means I can at least use the gun I will definitely purchase a roomier stock.

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I think I can see one or two on there you might have bought


Now this "might" fit but have doubts as it is getting close




is says its 20mm x 6mm so its getting tight especially if it puffs a tiny tiny bit - which is fine

but may not fit so easily once it has a light puff pastry

plus 1000mah capacity could be better


yeah 11.1v 3 cell stuff is a bit more of pain to fit into tight airsoft compartments


The FireHawk with its stock tube battery in GOS-V2 is another pain in ar$e limiting what you can use

nice looking stock but not so practical in use imho - lovely for front wired guns, crap for rear wired


Hence I flogged a couple of them stocks and just bought stubby - just couldn't be ar$ed no more

anyway - I'll get some dimensions - probably about 130-135mm depth/long

but its the diameter or dimensions of the actual tubes that restrict some batteries from fitting ok

will post some findings in the afternoon no doubt

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I ordered




Am I going to struggle with this one? I thought this would be best as the battery space on the Pred isn't that roomy at all.



Yeah I think your choice is probably the safer bet than the single stick version:



this is gonna be too thick as it is over 18mm thick


seriously the stock is f*cking pi$$ poor space wise


reckon absolute max max you are looking at about 110 - maybe 120 if battery is thin

(the tubes tapers a bit and my test batteries were stopping about 10mm short)

and diameter wise - bloody hell 18mm is pushing it - poxy G&G

reckon to be safe 17.5mm heck 17mm should be aimed for in case a little lipo swell over time


so yeah battery space is about 17mm diameter by say 110mm max length


weird twisty end to GOS-V3, this flat back inside the twist is slightly angled but more so

it is flat where classic crane stocks often have a bulge/angled end that clips on and could allow a little longer length to about 125mm


but nope G&G have decided to make owners have to use 9.6v to 11.1v lipo's

but with less friggin' bastid stupid room inside - so your capacity/range/choices is very limited


Your battery should fit fine I'd say

either a cell down each tube - the center stock tube cell might be a squeeze - not looked at fet thickness

but if not 2 cells down one tube should be fine I'd say




20A continuous discharge, 40A burst

3 sections : 106.9 x 15.9 x 6.5 mm weight 67g.


For the record - think my left tube was a smidge tighter than the right tube - not much at all but noticed it


Been looking for other batteries but tiny 11.1v lipo's that I'd say fit are coming up too damn risky for me to recommend

Think you made a wise choice on the battery I'd say


tried a lightly used 7.4v - yeah no go on cycling

runs fine on a lightly used 11.1v


the 3rnd burst option on full auto I was playing with enable/disable


The FFR 2 I got has a metal RIS which was a nice surprise on a CM

not sure about sights - will change plastic flash hider me thinks

then me personally I will fit a stubby fixed stock on there - sod poxy little batteries


Wiring - I will pop on deans as my batteries mainly have them

The wiring though is crap - very thin stock wiring - kinda expecting silver or thicker wiring

well going by what I can see at fuse/tamiya connector


Think 11.1v will see ya fine - hopefully

but pi$$ed G&G have ballsed it up and forcing owners to go to higher volts just to get gun to work ffs


Wow - finally had a read in manual - typical bloke style read manual if problems...



Model No : G-11-082

7.4V 1100 mAh

LI-PO Battery (Two-piece)

7.4V 1100 mAh




on page 4 of manual ffs !!!!

or a nimah G-11-056 - which is a 9.6v nimah


BUT right their in manual is says Recommended 2-piece Li-Po G-11-082

or the 9.6v nimah battery is second choice as it reads.....


if using 3 piece be f*cking careful arranging wires on the titchy little bastid lipo

that we should of included for free coz we ballsed up (again)

don't use above 25c batteries coz our $hit fets & motors can't take it


Ok it didn't say that last paragraph - but think that is the amended owners manual going to press

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Battery arrived this morning, only managed to open it up and have a look before leaving for work. Certainly, at first glance, looks like it will fit. I had the same issue with one side feeling as if it was tighter than the other when trying to fit the nimh in before. I have just been reading up on the whole Deans vs Tamiya, certainly feel like changing it all over to Deans now.


I was orignally using a 9.6v 1600 mah Nimh battery. I was told this would be fine for my gun.


what will you change the flash hider with?

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oh - maybe a stubby silencer just for looks really

(seems like it will fit flush up to ris - ideally a short 3" one would look perfect but most of mine are 110-125mm)

or maybe a claymore flash hider - tbh nothing like a claymore

and don't look that different just a metal one


your Predator is gonna be different to my cheapo ETU FFR 2


guy on LWA review said about it - normally I run with stock looks up front

stubby on the ar$e for block batteries

and a gun screaming its gonna bust any second


pic of my FFR 2 with stubby & suppressor etc.....

from other SR-L post but you can get the picture of what it looks like



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OK, so I tried out the 11.1v lipo and IT LIVES!!!!!

Maybe it's just in my head but the gun felt like it had extra kick to it. I played around with it for about half hour, didn't cut out once.


I've ordered all my deans, heat shrink etc, sadly won't turn up before this weekend's skirmish. Will certainly change it all over once they are here. Just ordered a second lipo with deans and then I receive this...


"Hi Andrew,


Thanks for the link advised.


It’s hard to tell the quality of the battery by the picture.

To fix the problem you have now, we will have a new batch MOSFET/ETU which could use 9.6V Ni-Mh battery as well to our direct UK dealers next week. Then it will work fine no matter you use 9.6V Ni-Mh or 11.1V Li-po, since we will lower the cut-off point on MOSFET.


Our direct dealers will be supposed to be recall sold ETU models back for replacement while they receive this new batch MOSFET/ETU.


Let me know if any question.



Thank you & Warm Regards,

Apple Huang [email protected]"


I have got onto my seller, he has not heard anything about this "recall" but he will speak to his wholesaler. Now if they have released a new model, do I send mine back? or carry on with the 11.1 lipo, I'm unsure if I need to now I am using the lipo. The triple cell battery I bought fits a treat, room to spare in fact!


I actually really like the look of the stubby, I have the battleship grey Pred, could look interesting with a black stubby. all my attachments are obviously black as well.

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11.1v lipo's have extra 3.7v cell so in theory they can run up to 50% faster rpm on motor

in practice its probably about 45% faster but you kinda get the idea of extra juice....


Lipo's have a C or burst rating on top - sort of how much kick or horse power they got when power is first applied

So 20c is normal, 25c is better, 30c+ is going some

maybe an extra 1 or 1.5rps per 5C increase but don't quote me and up to a limit I'd say


There is deffo further slight increase on 20c 25c 30c etc.... but giving ya a rough guide only coz can't be ar$ed to test all batteries exactly

Crazy speed freaks go for stuff like 45-60c+ but seriously ????


Anyway - most lame stock guns pull about 13rps so 50% on top from 11.1v is gonna get you to about 20rps - maybe 22rps is my rough estimate

I strongly advise NOT changing motor to shs torque/speed though as these will rip 33% to 50% even faster - getting high 20's or even 30rps

on a stock box it will very very likely crap out on beefy motor & 11.1v lipo - very quickly


so in its present state 11.1v lipo on the stock ferrite motor doing 20-22rps will be fine - but no more

20's is plenty


As for G&G - nobs


Not the first or probably the last time they have had to replace units

They have probably just started to get this sorted after fairly recent problems starting to surface

Funny enough I wouldn't be amazed if they tried to cut corners recently (again) and come unstuck

These newer ETU guns have been around for about 6 months or so....

I think the SR-S SR-L SR-XL are 6 months old at least maybe 9 months ago first batches started to appear

People were saying they were good and no problems I recall seeing - only in last couple of months more lemons have popped up


So it would not put me in deep shock to learn them at G&G sought to change/source some electronics elsewhere to save money

often cheap mosfets from ebay & China are clones/copies/fakes and can't handle the power they are supposed to and crap out

Or maybe the voltage regulator normally used in first batch say a 4.7v or 3.3v - heck might be ok just with a 5v regulator...

Oh well we got some 6v or 7v regulators to use on the boards....- yeah sod it they will do.....


Anyway - if they at G&G get a revised/improved/proper board they should of supplied in the first friggin' place.....

If/when they get the board sorted - it should also be a moderately easy job for a competant person to change themselves

the board will be wired to small tamiya at one end, and 2 female 2.8mm spade connectors at the other end

refit in the 4 wire jst connector from ETU and easy swap over.....


Only problem is the clear heatshrink tubing needs to be carefully cut off to gain access to the ETU wires/plug

(and reapply some new heatshrink after refitting new mosfet board)


So I can see to keep warranties authorised retailers may have to recall the ETU guns affected - refit & repost

Postage - hmmmm that has gotta be £10 each way plus fitting - which G&G should be paying for all costs....

So £20 shipping, £10 board and fitting by some "Qualified G&G Technical mofo" - hmmm yeah Jimmy in the warehouse more like

Still gotta be £35 or so cost


AND - G&G still don't say it will work with 7.4v lipo's like in manual, even with new mosfet board FFS !!!!!


So by all accounts after all this if you bought 7.4v lipo's - even after the recent recall

(so recent - most retailers may not have a f*cking clue what you are on about)




G&G - why not just buy or send owners a friggin' 11.1v lipo and be done with it

coz think you are just trying fix the Titanic with some plasters/Band Aid

no not Bob Geldolf Band Aid - though I do see the link with Bob being a G&G sales person...





OK - joking aside and general pi$$ taking etc......


What I will say is the ETU & 3rnd burst isn't as total crap as I'm making out

yes - could/should of been tested and working as it says on box/manual....

yes - it loses the 3rnd setting - but not a massive biggie as I said


BUT - in use it is quite nice - no more/less trigger pull than normal trigger/switch

it is when you set it on 3rnd burst that it completes the 3rnd burst with just a long or a tiny quick flick of trigger

stopping where it should everytime regardless of flick/long pull of trigger release


I would even go so far to say that it seems like even in semi - just one single shot

it fires just right with a quick flick of trigger and parks properly where it should

Though to be honest with 11.1v in there at 20rps it is snappier but I have tried to flick it into the dead zone

but so far it cycles fully and stops where it should after a complete cycle


Tried it in semi - 3rnd burst and also in full auto modes but having a number of goes it is not parking in dead zone

Well I had a reasonable go in all modes but not gonna spend hours & hours trying it

but it does appear to have an advantage so that people don't think their gun is stuck and won't fire no more posts

(unless the unit packs up again - ooh oohhh bitchy bitchy)


So even though it is flawed in its reliability atm for some people

and they can't get it do everything or run with any battery like manual says

I do kind of see where G&G where coming from and it not being quite as $hit as even I first thought


So yeah - this ETU stuff wasn't such a crap idea - just should of been done/tested better

Think for the moment - I'm gonna keep her as is with stubby & 11.1v and see how she goes


As for fixed stocks.....


Stubby stocks are about 190mm max length

Full fixed stocks are about 290mm length


A shame coz really think many guns/owners would prefer a medium stock say 240/250mm length

Stubby is ok say on a cqb FireHawk holding short gun right tucked into you

but as you get into wider open spaces taking longer shots you need a bit more on the stock for an accurate aim perhaps

not going by length of gun = length of stock and/or owner but you get the idea.....


say an average 300mm gun, normal bloke, taking a shot at say 40m+ you probably would want the stock a little longer

not too long like a full stock for dmr's but something like a 9" to 10" stock length would be ideal imho


There are a few slightly shorter full stock's - about 265mm I found on cheapy guns but majority full fixed are near 300mm


So the stubby is not going to be eveybody's cuppa tea as it is like the normal stock ergh - stock M4 stock fully retracted

where as most of us have it back a couple of clicks

But it does allow you to use cheaper and easier to source block lipo/batteries

As well as it is thinner - the crane's have the triangle bulge near the top for battery tubes

so in my mind your face is a tiny little bit less tucked tight into stock when ADS


The argument on best stock - in use or best looking stock is always gonna be open for opinion/debate/rows

heck in my mind its probably the last bit like the pistol grip that enemy would see out on the field as you line them up

so use what ever friggin' stock you want to or fits the bill - enough people say wtf and duct tape batteries on there

it means very little - it's your gun so do/use wtf you like


Though gun manufacturers should maybe consider a snazzy looking medium fixed or retractable stubby stock

think there could be a niche in the market for a decent cost effective practical stock imho

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I bet Jimmy can't wait to change all these mosfets, this is what all those years of training has boiled down to. This is it Jimmy, this is your moment!


Tomorrow is Skirmish day for the new 11.1v lipo so will certainly have something to report back on, fingers crossed the gun doesn't stop firing. I was just making a mental list of connections to change over to deans, Battery, cable to mosfet and one for the charger.


If this lipo works fine tomorrow, I don't think I'll bother changing the stock.


One thing, I was looking at the hopup last night. I couldn't move it at all! is this usual for out of the box? there is a tiny screw in the dial, does this need undoing before it will turn?


Just want to say Thanks for all your advice and help SD

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All you would need is a male & female deans connector

there are tutorials on youtube about soldering deans connectors....

the male prong deans goes on gun - the top of T is positive

(should have a + on connector sometimes if ya look carefully)


The leg of the T is negative


you cut and solder 1 lead at time - ESPECIALLY AT BATTERY

cutting both together will get a f*cking load BANG from a lipo short

scissors/wire cutters will look like they have been arc welded and you will need a change in underwear

it packs a punch them mofo lipo's


so you cut - fit heat shrink - solder one wire at a time

3 hands needed or tape the thingy to worktop or mini vise/molegrips resting on table etc.....


tbh just use it as is for now.....

not being funny but yes you may get a slight slight increase going to deans

but it is really when you go and rewire the gun in thicker 16awg wire

you 20c lipo is most likely 16awg on there and then it connects to rest of wiring at 18awg

so poxy small tamiya isn't holding you back with THAT much resistance if still on 18awg in gun


when people go nutz on 16awg deans then they need a really powerful mosfet to protect contacts

and handle the large amounts of juice that now flows through gun to motor


Also with G&G messing about with recalls and stuff I'd ease up in case they get $hitty about you fitting deans

is fine for me I void warranties 30 mins after delivery and don't think raw stupid abuse of guns is covered under warranty anyway


stock is fine - looks nice as I said


hop adjustment......




the lower left wheel is for increasing/decreasing hop

the wheel turns clockwise and the arm places more pressure on nub = more hop

anti or counterclockwise decreases hop


clockwise - hop on

anticlockwise - hop off


it has arrow on it too




not sure if its max hop already or if any hop on it.....


lay gun 90 degrees on its side say tilt gun on its side and fire...

you should see bb flying straight-ish no hop

but if it curls like f*ck left then hop is on a bit or a lot already

(would normally curve upwards but sometimes on its side will show the hop/curve more vividly)


You probably need to turn a little bit clockwise a smidge - then a smidge backwards, then hairline forwards a couple of times...

Then this will depend on bb's and weight you are using to attain best possible flight etc.....


those gears are quite tiny plastic so go easy and if she really wont budge or reaches it limit and gears clunk/jump then might be easier to slide hop/barrel out and see why they are not adjusting correctly....


As long as you know which way to turn them and go easy at a time - especially when you at the limit of no hop - full hop

and your last question


No you do not undo/loosen the screw - well very rarely especially on a new gun...

them 3 cogs are affixed differently...

center cog has a circlip as seen in pic

top right cog most likely has a circlip at the back of the unit

the main/adjustment cog bottom left is affixed to hop unit by phillips screw....

This is holding it to the hop and it should be slightly stiff to turn or the adjustment you dial in will not stay

sometimes if the hop adjust wheel is too loose people add a shim or something to ensure the setting stays put


I doubt if the hop adjust wheel is really that tight tbh - even new out of box

probably more a point that you need to know which way to turn it - usually clockwise a smidge

Do not force it too much - it should be a bit stiff but not stuck solid

hence if you are grief - maybe examine it closer up by popping receiver front pin so you can seperate receiver

then slide out hop+barrel and see wtf is up

Though you shouldn't need to do this really - do a google youtube for more info

Reason I say this - if it is stiff as f*ck or you loosen/lose screw etc... - it is a bit fiddly if unsure what way to adjust etc...


Anyway - fingers crossed gun is ok - you get to tweak hop a smidge and fine tune it a tiny bit


Happy Shooting

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OK, 1 full day skirmish at The Grange, I love the Predator. Great gun, no problems with it at all. 11.1v lipo ran all day, should I have changed it regardless at lunch?


One lead at a time, got it. Ha!

I'll leave it as it is for now then, when would a rewiring be required?


I didn't try the hopup on the day, I was hitting 10-20 ft signs with obvious ease and 30 with barely any aim adjustment.


I do need to clean the barrel tonight, got the silicon oil for that. I will check the hop one I am doing that tonight.


Had a great day with only one gripe and that was my own stupidity of kneeling in a nettles bush. Knee felt like it was about 20ft wide after!


At the Grange they mentioned a new CQB site that will be opening in Birmingham, a 2 story warehouse. I was looking at a stubby m4 for using in CQB environments (so I can just use the mags I currently have). I was tempted by the G&G Firehawk.

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