G&G cm16 srl battery issues

[Pinathon]

Hey SD

 

That's a great reply.

 

I bought a gc16 Sr-cqb from zero-one recently.

 

I haven't seen it or held it yet as I actually live in Australia.

 

Airsoft is illegal here and being an expat I only get to play for a few weeks every couple of years when go home to the U.K. to visit my parents and friends.

 

I read heaps of reviews on the g&g which were all good and hence why I ended up with it.

 

I'm just slightly concerned as the gc16 model comes with the neo motor as standard and if I can't run it on 7.4v lipo because they are not powerful enough and I can't run it on 11.1v lipo because it pops fuses then I may have a bit of problem.

 

Thanks again for the comprehensive reply.

 

Andrew

[Sitting Duck]

I'm just slightly concerned as the gc16 model comes with the neo motor as standard and if I can't run it on 7.4v lipo because they are not powerful enough and I can't run it on 11.1v lipo because it pops fuses then I may have a bit of problem.

 

 

I would be amazed if they installed a neodym motor in there....

I don't own all G&G's but most of the Combat Machines

And seen a few Top Tech's that come with a Blue stickered Powerful Motor but it is a ferrite motor not neodym

 

 

There are a couple of others like a red stickered Powerful Motor

http://www.evike.com/products/29935/

but not seen one myself to confirm if that might be a neodym but Blue Sticker is deffo lame ferrite - better than crap stock 18k one but still ferrite

 

also there is this one I have never seen before:

 

 

Also a review of the usual 2 most common motors - stock & blue plus a new type that has started to appear in some Hogs I'm lead to think:

 

 

Only way to know what they chuck in is to remove the base of pistol grip and see for yourself

imho G&G do chuck in different stuff according to stock levels - people say they always use hex m3 bolts now on gearbox screws

nope I have said I have had some that still use phillips head screws - nope they say

well my FFR 2 had phillips screws on the gearbox so I maintain they do use what is available if out of stock of stuff

or they have 2 assembly lines coz not all G&G CM v2 boxes have the usual 8mm bronzey bushings

as had 1 or 2 recent-ish ones that had 8mm bearings in there instead of the bronzey bushings

 

BUT - I would be nigh on amazed if G&G were chucking in decent neodym motors

as so far with the lower end they were all ferrites

 

Ferrite (black) magnets are weaker than neodym magnets (silver/chrome)

look at the motor - near the shaft, inside the motor you will be able to see colour of magnets

bet the motor will have black ferrite magnets - 98% sure of that

 

Ferrites lack speed and grunt of stronger neodym motors

often neodym can be up to 50% stronger and faster than ferrite motors

so roughly speaking running a ferrite on 11.1v is about the same as running a neodym on 7.4v

This is aprox rough guide - all motors will vary - some faster stronger than others as G&G video will show

 

The fuse blew in my FFR2 coz I started to take the pi$$ on poor stock wiring 18awg which is not designed for neodym

if I put in a blue powerful motor I am 99.999999% certain it would of been fine

I was using a JG Chaoli neodym motor which is strong but not absolutely mental

Neodym motors draw more juice as they spin with much greater torque and speed

So fuse blew due to extra current drawn and quite likely motor height being out and straining on box/bevel gear

I didn't get many shots off before she blew the fuse - but think it was a bit of both or motor is shorting

 

Some Frankentorque insane motors pulling crazy springs will drain even large lipo's very quickly

There is a balance between going insane and moderate specs of neodym motors to save battery power

A decent cheap all rounder is a shs torque BUT DO NOT INSTALL ONE IN ETU's coz it will take the pi$$

 

So don't think the gun will blow fuses on 11.1v

only if you start taking the pi$$ or messing with it trying to run stronger neodym's etc...

on 11.1v you should get 20rps on ferrite which is about same as neodym on 7.4v

running neodym on 11.1v could place the gun up at near 30rps which is dangerous to a stock gun

at that speed she will double fire and likely get close to Pre Engagement - piston getting stripped coz running too fast

modifications need to made and Angle of Engagement before the piston's initial pick up gear - large lug at back

if pushed at higher speeds and not AoE corrected the pick up tooth will just snap off very quickly

 

So as long as you keep guns at up to 20rps you should be ok for a while imho

above that and you will need to service and tweak gearbox a little

keep it on stock black ferrite motor and 11.1v and it will be fine I reckon

 

Don't worry - 11.1v is fine on stock ETU G&G as it is

note ETU - ordinary G&G's without a mosfet I would only go up to a max of 9.6v to reduce trigger contacts arcing

 

I'm just taking the pi$$ atm and seeing how far stuff can be pushed and learning by my mistakes

if you keep gun at a sensible level you will be fine but would say you may need 11.1v rather than 7.4v

it will be a bit snappier but at 20rps I feel it will ok and at least it will work properly

[Pinathon]

Ah ok

 

I was just going by the marketing stuff put out on a number of websites

 

These are a couple of references to the ifrit 25000 rpm neo motor being fitted to all the gc models.

 

https://m.facebook.com/NewEnglandAirsoftTactical/posts/468522993348679

 

http://www.airsoftexcellence.com/store/p382/G%26G_Armament_GC16_SR-CQB

 

Not sure how accurate they are (but being American sites, I would guess they would be or else it would be a free for all on lawsuits!) as I haven't had a look in mine...will do next Saturday tho.

 

Guess il just have to suck it and see when I get back to the uk next Saturday.

 

Il post up my finding then.

 

Thanks again for your help

 

Andrew

[Sitting Duck]

soz wrong video clip and this was what I meant/watched a while back

 

 

in english and dunno what the french bloke was using to test them motors probably 8.4/9.6v

 

the link above I think is American/English and uses 11.1v I think

 

not much improvement in orange new motor than blue ferrite

but french video shows shs torque much faster/stronger

do not use neodym motor though and you will be fine

[Sitting Duck]

To be honest if that orange 25k motor is neodym

then it is another area that G&G suck at making

 

the shs torque kicks its ar$e and is under £30

 

and you can get motors for about that price that are even crazier but so strong they wreck most guns quickly

 

but yeah G&G orange got its ar$e kicked by shs in the french tests

though tbh shs pulling 17rps and stock G&G pulling 14 equates to only a 20% improvement ???

I stand by my 33% - well at least 30% so I'm going out on a limb here and say

either battery was max charge on stock G&G and it was a very good one

(some motors spin like there is no magnetic field at all & others you can feel mild resistance turning pinion by hand)

and the SHS torque was a lame one with reduced juice - trust me you can't turn neodym motors by hand as easy as ferrites

 

And really crazy stuff was DSG HC05 went from 27rps on blue ferrite to just over 40rps on mental neodym

so yes that crazy neodym was ripping 50% more than a blue ferrite - which tbh isn't a bad ferrite in french tests

 

So yeah a bit weird the shs torque only showed about 20-21% increase over 18k stock G&G - but still stronger than G&G's neo

[Pinathon]

That's awesome.

 

Thanks so much for your help SD.

 

After I'd bought my Sr I found this thread...damn it.

 

I Was getting concerned that I'd have to dust off my 10+ year old ca m15a4 cqb again!

 

Cheers

 

Andrew

[Sitting Duck]

honestly it is just the pcb that don't work on lower juice like it should

alas a strong 9.6v or a small 11.1v lipo seems to be way to go

 

luckily G&G use lame motors so 11.1v 20c lipo's don't make gun run too crazy

[Pinathon]

All good,

 

il just get a couple of 11.1v lipos from component shop referenced in one of the other posts and see how I go.

 

Once again thanks for all your help, bloody invaluable.

 

Andrew

[Smouke]

Hey guys, first of all i want to say sorry for my english, this is not my first language.

 

I bought a factory new GC16 SR-L 2 days ago and after a little test it just stop working. So i reconnect the battery and it start working, for a while. Then again and again.

On the mosfet is flashing red LED.

I just tried to charge battery, first mag without a problem, but after 400+BB it starts stoping again.

 

I have a 9,6 nimh battery 1600mah http://airsoftshop.cz/product_info.php/cPath/404_68_71_133/products_id/4156/language/EN

Motor is orange, i think 25000 ifrit as you say https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3cmfH4utyCjUHNhV0VpQzJEQnc

 

So according to you, should i buy a 11,1V lipo or use waranty ?

Now i can return this gun without a reason for 14 days.

[Sitting Duck]

So according to you, should i buy a 11,1V lipo or use waranty ?

Now i can return this gun without a reason for 14 days.

 

tough question to answer

 

think you will need 11.1v for better operation

or

return it which is a shame coz it is a nice gun for the money

 

A real shame that the thing that was supposed to make this gun stand out - ETU system

is in the end making it stand out for all the wrong reasons - it often just doesn't want to work when you expect it to on the field

 

Sorry I can't answer the question easily....

 

£200 SR range or £150 FFR A2 like I got cheap - hmm tough question to answer....

£250+ Predator or Wild Hog gun - likely suggest returning it and get a Krytac

[Smouke]

I am from the czech republic, so we dont have much options in our local shops.

Like Krytac etc. I think i will buy 11,1 lipo and return only battery.

 

Hope this one will fit http://airsoftpro.cz/en/launchers-grenades/batteries-10-8v/akumulator-11-1v-2000mah-15c-li-pol-cqb-detail

 

btw thx for fast answer

[Sitting Duck]

no problem - nice guns but a shame some ETu's can be a bit picky

 

you probably read this similar post:

 

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29958-new-member-g-g-cm16-predator-firing-issue/

 

the 11.1v battery at componentshop seems to fit and work ok for the OP

I know the GOS v3 type stock like most G&G stocks isn't the most roomy but the 11.1v @ componentshop seems to fit in ok

 

I sold the stock, fitted stubby and when the ETU died from me using a very beefy neodym motor on 11.1v 25c+ lipo

the unit died so ripped it out and went back to normal trigger system - a pain but I do like my FFR A2

 

well worth trying a thin 11.1v - nice guns, that is one thing G&G do very well loads of models to choose from

alas electronics and mosfets have never been G&G's strong point - pity coz I hope they improve their nice looking guns

 

best of luck - fingers crossed the 11.1v fits ok and your SR behaves itself so you can enjoy it more

[tak1n]

Hey guys I got a CM16 SRXL from evike.com and got the same problems as most guys in here.

Thank you everyone for your advice. I think it is a battery issue. As after testing the 9.6v it works great. So I think it was the issue.

I tried 3 9.6V NimH's and not even one works reliable (if I pull the trigger too often in short amount of time in semi mode it stops)

2 batteries are from VB Power: http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/2613-vb-power-9_6v-nimh-butterfly-nunchuck-battery-for-aeg-1600-mah.aspx
1 is from Vapex: http://www.vapextech.co.uk/batteries/airsoft-batteries/9-6v-packs/8vp1600afp-l4l4-tm1/

 

All of them where fully charged before trying it out.

JD8825 which 9.6V are u using?

 

Video which illustrates my problem: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifkrthjs4zsluyq/VID_20160517_131255.mp4?dl=0

Cheers Benny

[Sitting Duck]

it isn't the 9.6v battery or what brand or capacity.........

 

it is the f*cking ETU unit playing up !!!!!

 

SOME ETU's work with 7.4v fresh off charge @ 8.4v BUT many people including my own FFR A2 had trouble

a 11.1v lipo will work or work much better for people having issues

 

Both G&G and some/most retailers are not addressing the issue blaming owners choice of battery rather than admit ETU is at fault

The suggestion is quite simply - stop buying more 9.6v's and try to source a small thin 11.1v lipo

or

send it back for refund coz the bottom line is that owners should not have these problems with a new "well designed" gun

 

Don't get fobbed off with lame excuses about ETU's "safety" voltage drop issue - in some cases it can be be very picky

or you could say perhaps some might be faulty

or I would say the design is F*CKED !!!!

 

G&G need to totally re-do the ETU and its voltage regulator or its reliable operation more to the point

[Smouke]

Hi guys, im trying new 11.1v battery http://airsoftpro.cz/en/launchers-grenades/batteries-10-8v/akumulator-11-1v-2000mah-15c-li-pol-cqb-detail?limitstart=0&limit=int&showall=1

 

it will fit, but you have to be very careful with mosfet and wires https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3cmfH4utyCjY3QxSUZRbFhMR0E

 

after ~ 1000 bbs everything looks good

[Sitting Duck]

I just feel G&G should just man up, admit that some ETU's are picky and send out there 11.1v 20c lipo's

 

G&G's have recently raised their price a little on most models (probably inflation and dollar exchange rate maybe)

but anybody who may think of becoming a new G&G ETU owner at the increased prices should also get increased customer support/service too

Actually just think G&G should not have allowed this to happen but think there are quite a few picky ETU's out there that may only perform properly on 11.1v

 

Yeah - think G&G could of handled & improved this ETU problem a lot better in my book - disappointing is one of many words that comes to mind

fingers crossed she behaves herself and runs nice n snappy now

[Left-Ear]

I had the same problem basically its that you have the mosfet and the ETU to power I use a 11.1 lipo and have no issues now

[ImTriggerHappy]

I had the same problem basically its that you have the mosfet and the ETU to power I use a 11.1 lipo and have no issues now

Thats not the problem its just badly made crap electronics inside. Lots of guns have a mosfet and etu and can still work fine on a 8.4v nimh.

[Prah]

Hi guys.

 

I bought a new CM16 SRL and also a 11.1V 1300 mah 20c but I got an overheating issue with the stock motor.

 

After 200 / 300 bbs shooted in about 5-10 minutes the grip starts to warm a lot.

 

Is it normal when I use a 11.1v lipo or is a motor/electric problem?

[Sitting Duck]

Motor height shimming problem

 

F*cking send it back tbh and get G&G to sort their stuff properly and get their f*cking act together

 

Shooting 20rps just over should not be such a big deal if gun was built correctly

 

Yes motor will get warm with bare hands, but you need to decide just how warm it gets. Warm is normal, very warm to hot it should not be getting and everybody's definition will vary. Very warm to hot is what I call silly speed stuff on 7.4v 30+rps - THAT is very warm/hot when letting rip

 

If you can see if you can check amps.

 

If a stock gun is drawing 15amps or more something ain't right imho. No way should stock gears n stuff draw 15a +

[exterminator]

HI have recently bought the rifle above and I have charged my 8.4 numchucks so they are ready for skirmish. They are both fully charged and when I connect it to the gun it won'the fire. And when I open the but plate there is a light that flashs red. Down the stock tube where the mosfet is. Any idea why this is? Thanks in advance

Hello. I have the same weapon and had the same issue. In summary, the nice folks at Patrol Base looked into this and spoke with the UK distributor. It turns out that 7.7v or 8.4v lipos are just not up to it because as soon as they drain a little, there isn't enough power. This is an issue with the MOSFET. Furthermore, I was advised that even if the 8.4v lipos worked, you may only get one game out of the battery before it stops working.

 

The solution that we came up with was to replace the lipos with 11.1v ones (which incidentally, Patrol Base gave me foc as a goodwill gesture) and since then I have had no issues with it. It fires really fast in full auto however, as I don't normally fire on full-auto in long bursts, it really isn't an issue for me.

 

There is a view that using an 11.1v battery on this weapon can lead to excessive wear on the moving parts thus reducing its life but Patrol Base were happy to honour the warranty if I used 11.1v so everyone is happy with the outcome. IMHO G&G could have designed this weapon with a better MOSFET that would be happy working with lower voltage batteries.

 

Incidentally, if you look up the CM16 SRL on the Patrol Base web site, you will see that they specify 11.1c lipos for it.

[exterminator]

Hi guys.

 

I bought a new CM16 SRL and also a 11.1V 1300 mah 20c but I got an overheating issue with the stock motor.

 

After 200 / 300 bbs shooted in about 5-10 minutes the grip starts to warm a lot.

 

Is it normal when I use a 11.1v lipo or is a motor/electric problem?

Yes, this is something that I experience with mine but as I don't fire for minutes at a time on full-auto, it isn't a problem for me. Wearing gloves (as you do) I don't notice anyway. BTW - you shoot one hell of a lot of BBs in 10 minutes. I sometimes don't fire that many in a 90 minute game

[Jayw1805]

I've got the xl and I'm wondering what length of battery it can fit

[Sitting Duck]

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

3 sections : 106.9 x 15.9 x 6.5 mm weight 67g.

I know the stock gso or gosv3 thingy majig like most G&G cranes don't allow very fat nunchuck sticks over 18mm or 19mm diameter

plus pretty sure a 125mm length twin stick battery might not quite fit

so yeah that 11.1v lipo that Mr Pondlife linked to seems one to consider

[Myke Gee]

Hi all.

I've just this minute signed up to the forums, specifically to post this response.

 

After owning my GC16 SRL since April 2016, I'd like to be able to say it was working flawlessly, however...........................

 

................. This weekend just gone, I decided to open up the gearbox to service it and replace the stock cylinder, head, piston, air nozzle and main spring [M110].

After replacing said parts and closing the gearbox back up, it was time for a dry fire test. So, I attached the motor grip and motor, connected a freshly charged 10.8v Ni-MH and pulled the trigger. It sounded briefly like the motor tried to turn but didn't. I pulled the trigger again, nothing. Checked the mosfet and got a 2-flash warning. Nothing else.

I have dismantled the gearbox to check the sector gear position in relation to the cut-off lever and have confirmed that they are set right. I'm baffled and slightly annoyed as all was fine BEFORE splitting the gearbox!!

Today, I tested everything with a multi-meter and another freshly charged 10.8v Ni-MH.

 

The battery registers 10.8v direct, when connected to the fet and gearbox with the trigger pulled I get a max of 4.58v and without the trigger pulled, a constant 3.51v.

I've now contacted G&G to ask for an explanation.