Lonex A1 Supreme Getting HOT

[LordGeorge]

Hey Guys/Gals

 

I have touched on this subject on another discussion but wanted to make a clear subject on this issue.

Firstly lest state what i have.

 

1450mah 25c 11.1v lipo

Gate Merf 3.2 mosfet

Deans connectors

14/16 AWG cable.
18:1 gears

m110 spring

Lonex A1 Supreme

 

RPS:25

 

With that on the table. My main issue at this moment is how hot the bushing on the motor gets when firing both semi and auto roughly 400 rounds.

That motor gets very warm, especially the bushings "so hot you dearnt touch them". Motor not so hot but certainly warm.

On saturday while messing about and 400 bbs later, noticed a slight issue with the firing.

Thinking it was a loose spade connector, i opened the housing to find the cabling fine. But then noticed a big build up of carbon around the outside of the pistol grip.

Dont get me wrong it wasnt piling up, but for 400 + bbs that was allot.

Just to confirm, the cabling does not get warm at all and only the mosfet and battery get warm. But not enough to be concerned.

 

I would like to blame the motor/battery and rps but many people run much higher rps and stronger spings and dont seem to have the same issue.

I touched on a previous discussion i had that the battery wasnt quite up to the job, thus causing excess strain on the motor.

 

I also found this while looking through the mosfet manual that may support the battery issue.

 

UVP

Under Voltage Protection

Protects rechargeable Li-Ion: Li-Poly /

LiFePO4 and NiCd against excessive discharge.

 

 

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

 

Cheers

George

[Sitting Duck]

Did you open n mess with box ???

 

Sounds to me like possible bevel gear too low putting massive strain on motor

 

Also bad shimming nblittle grease is most likely

Should be getting more RPS on 11.1v with top motor like that smidge under 30 I reckon

[LordGeorge]

Did you open n mess with box ???

 

Sounds to me like possible bevel gear too low putting massive strain on motor

 

Also bad shimming nblittle grease is most likely

Should be getting more RPS on 11.1v with top motor like that smidge under 30 I reckon

Hey dude

 

I have re-done the shell top to bottom.

The shimming is perfect and runs nice and quiet. There was almost no ware on any gears after my last event that went through 3000+ bbs.

Grease is a different subject in its own as im testing different types at the mo.

 

If it helps, this issue is the same if i physically hold the motor and give it a wizz with mo load. "When i say hold, i mean myself to the ground" hehe

I do agree i should be getting more rps.

 

Thanks

[Sitting Duck]

Shimming could be fine BUT

 

The bevel gear should have just a thinnest shim on top or no shim at all on top if bushings

Bearings maybe another thin shim but very little still required

 

If bevel gear is low the motor strains when engaging and when you wind motor in it pushes bevel harder against its top bushing/bearing creating in turn strain n heat

 

Your gears can be spinning lovely spaced nicely by hand

 

But when fitting motor that is where it goes pear shape

You may not hear much screeching of gears just a bit of strain but not screeching as such. But it will run very warm

 

I know coz I kept shimming bevel too low on my first few rebuilds and kept thinking wtf?

 

Only other thing is motor angle - again causing strain on pinion to bevel gear meshing, can pull a motor cage a smidge on v3's to get bettet mesh but not so easy to throw motor alignment on v2 pistol grip

Though another pistol grip may and I say "may" mesh a tiny bit better or worse if ya unlucky

[Lozart]

If you're using active braking that'll make the motor get hot.

[LordGeorge]

Shimming could be fine BUT

 

The bevel gear should have just a thinnest shim on top or no shim at all on top if bushings

Bearings maybe another thin shim but very little still required

 

If bevel gear is low the motor strains when engaging and when you wind motor in it pushes bevel harder against its top bushing/bearing creating in turn strain n heat

 

Your gears can be spinning lovely spaced nicely by hand

 

But when fitting motor that is where it goes pear shape

You may not hear much screeching of gears just a bit of strain but not screeching as such. But it will run very warm

 

I know coz I kept shimming bevel too low on my first few rebuilds and kept thinking wtf?

 

Only other thing is motor angle - again causing strain on pinion to bevel gear meshing, can pull a motor cage a smidge on v3's to get bettet mesh but not so easy to throw motor alignment on v2 pistol grip

Though another pistol grip may and I say "may" mesh a tiny bit better or worse if ya unlucky

I spent many a hour shimming the shell, bevel to pinion. The gears sping freely and i can push the gears around just about when motor is engaged.

I can certainly double check the shim but as i said, considering i have had the same results in or out the gun. I dont think the issue is the gearbox.

[Sitting Duck]

I said that before in an earlier post but sure the OP said he could disable it.

 

 

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/26328-we-scar-h-v2-gearbox-shell/#entry198279

 

 

But unless I got posts mixed up I am sure Merf 3.2 has braking enabled and can NOT be disabled

They do a new fet which can be enabled & disabled but doesn't have the programme features that the Merf3.2 has...

 

Unless I'm talking out my duck's ar$e again....

 

But sure I mention about AB but OP was going on about hot battery ????

Its hard to fathom out exactly what is meant let alone causes sometimes

But sure Merf 3.2 is always AB on from their own spec sheet but I haven't had one so can't say for 101% certain

[LordGeorge]

If you're using active braking that'll make the motor get hot.

Yeah i have seen this around, i may get the gate HARD. That can turn off AB.

If it gives me some extra battery life and less heat then im happy with that.

Just amazed nobody else has posted previous to this, with the same isssue.

[LordGeorge]

I said that before in an earlier post but sure the OP said he could disable it.

 

But unless I got posts mixed up I am sure Merf 3.2 has braking enabled and can NOT be disabled

They do a new fet which can be enabled & disabled but doesn't have the programme features that the Merf3.2 has...

 

Unless I'm talking out my duck's ar$e again....

 

But sure I mention about AB but OP was going on about hot battery ????

Its hard to fathom out exactly what is meant let alone causes sometimes

But sure Merf 3.2 is always AB on from their own spec sheet but I haven't had one so can't say for 101% certain

Unfortunately with the 3.2 you cant turn off AB .

The HARD model can turn it off, the biggest pain in the ass is i cant simply remove the mosfet as its wired into the contacts.

May be best to get a spare anyway.

Haha we all have those moments

[Lozart]

Yeah i have seen this around, i may get the gate HARD. That can turn off AB.

If it gives me some extra battery life and less heat then im happy with that.

Just amazed nobody else has posted previous to this, with the same isssue.

 

Just get the SSR version, that doesn't have AB.

[Sitting Duck]

Build your own or get a firestorm baby mofo fet for a tenner

http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html

[Ian_Gere]

Active breaking doesn't explain carbon build up. To me that sounds like there's something wrong with the way the bushes are contacting inside the motor, causing arcing.

[LordGeorge]

Active breaking doesn't explain carbon build up. To me that sounds like there's something wrong with the way the bushes are contacting inside the motor, causing arcing.

Well 4 months later, the rps had dropped a little and as for arcing. YES ALLOT.

If i run the motor in my hand "tightly" and watch the bushings, the arcing from the point of contact while running and the flash created when i drop off the power is quite something.

 

[Ian_Gere]

Well 4 months later, the rps had dropped a little and as for arcing. YES ALLOT.

If i run the motor in my hand "tightly" and watch the bushings, the arcing from the point of contact while running and the flash created when i drop off the power is quite something.

 

Well there you are then - get a new motor!

[LordGeorge]

I wouldn't agree that after 4 months of having what is supposed to be a good motor to then replace it.

It's not really been used allot.

[Ian_Gere]

Obviously it was a lemon from the get go. Trouble is that after all this time you may be hard pressed to get a refund. Nonetheless, as you say, 4 months is not what you should expect from any motor which was fit for purpose at the moment of sale, so you may be able to get a replacement if your negotiating skillz are up to scratch...

[LordGeorge]

Obviously it was a lemon from the get go. Trouble is that after all this time you may be hard pressed to get a refund. Nonetheless, as you say, 4 months is not what you should expect from any motor which was fit for purpose at the moment of sale, so you may be able to get a replacement if your negotiating skillz are up to scratch...

Indeed, i need to get a mosfet without AB , AB really cant help much on wear and temps.

My negotiating skills certainly seemed to have payed off, i contacted the seller and has agreed to help replace the motor. Lets see how we get on