Upgrading my JG G36C

[elrasho]

Hi chaps,

 

I want to upgrade my JG G36C. I've put a MadBull M100 spring to get it's FPS down, its now at 315 from 370. Now I want better accuracy, I'm finding my BBs spread is too far apart. Out of 10 shots about 6 will be on target, the rest flail off to the right or left. What can I do to get better accuracy?

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

 

[elrasho]

Been doing some reseach and thinking I'll upgrade the hop up chamber, rubber and bucking. This should get me the range and then I'll upgrade the barrel to a tight bore. My question is which parts should I get? What's compatible with a JG G36C?

[sunstar]

http://AirsoftTech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=BarrelStabilization_Page1

Allot of the jg g36 has a verry loos fit inner barrel ... So this may help ...

 

 

Also if you need a disassembly guide:

http://AirsoftTech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=JG608_Page1

 

And as for parts: Tight bore barrel, and some soft rubber (Eg promethius purpal) ...

 

And if you have changed the cylender or barrel considder dooing some calculations on cylinder to barrel ratio calculations.

This eksplains the principles:

http://AirsoftTech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=CylBarVolRatio_Page1

 

And this is a calculator you could use:

http://AirsoftTech.dk/Calculator.cshtml

 

 

Also: Based on my experiance with that speecific gun, the air sealinng is not verry good :-/ so you may increase the power a bit by air sealing ....

http://airsoft.spells.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=AEGAirSeal_Page1

http://airsoft.spells.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=ORingExpansion_Page1

 

Hope it helps :-)

[elrasho]

Thanks for the very helpfull inromation sunstar I've got a lot of reading to do over my lunch. I'm thinking of replacing the barrel and bucking for now and see if that helps with accuracy.

 

EDIT: After reading the article I'm going to try and stabalise the barrell first and see if that helps: http://airsoft.spells.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=BarrelStabilization_Page1

[Ian_Gere]

A TBB will boost FPS but generally speaking it wont improve accuracy. An upgrade hop unit like this will improve accuracy and if you get an H-nub with, as above, a Prometheus Purple soft rubber, it will be a lot better. An even better choice of nub is the ASPUK or RA-Tech type. From the sounds of it, barrel instability may be contributing, because your shots are going left and right. But something else to check with that is what BB's are you using?

[elrasho]

Decided to get a MAD BULL 247mm 6.03 Upgrade Tightbore Barrel and MAD BULL Blue 60 Airsoft Hop Rubber and Bucking. Found a really god video on Youtube showing you how to disassemble the JG G36C:

 

That Lonex Hop Up Unit looks good, might get one.

[elrasho]

I might try this before I upgrade: http://airsoft.spells.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=BarrelStabilization_Page1

[Ian_Gere]

Just be careful if you wrap the hop rubber in PTFE tape.

 

1. use silicone grease on the outside once wrapped (or CT-2 Teflon(PTFE) Silicone grease for best results*)

 

2. if you have to press very hard to make the barrel with rubber fitted slide into the hop unit, you risk the rubber jamming and the barrel pushing through inside it, which can damage the rubber.

 

Ideally the barrel would have been cleaned with a spotless soft cloth using soapy water, rinsed thoroughly with water, air dried, and finally cleaned again with an alcohol swab, to remove every last trace of oil, grease, or muck, both inside and where the rubber fits outside as well. Once the alcohol has evaporated, using freshly washed hands, when you carefully fit a new rubber onto the barrel, there will be the maximum amount of friction between the two, which means that when it comes to wrapping the PTFE tape around the rubber, you will be able to use a fraction more (which when greased with CT-2 will still fit), resulting in the tightest air seal and most stable breach-end.

 

In practice, the only area that you need to keep relatively grease free is the bump inside the rubber and a good slap of grease will get you past a multitude of sins. You can always give the barrel and hop a clean from inside with alcohol swabs later.

 

AEG accuracy itself is always going to be more at the mercy of air movement than almost anything you can do anything about, but also, due to the way that AEG's are usually fired in skirmish, body movement. Are you sufficiently well practiced that, while moving under fire, you can bring your AEG up from a muzzle down carry position to your shoulder in a fluid movement which ends simultaneously with your dominant eye aiming over iron sights to a man sized target 35m away and with a trigger pull which puts a hit on that man sized target first time and pretty much every time (ie with no need to correct your aim before pulling the trigger, and no need to correct for wind unless conditions are blustery)? If you can then there may be something to be gained by homemade improvements, but first try an H-nub, a sticky hop rubber combined with heavier BB's, and a TBB.

 

I would suggest that, unless your inner barrel is so loose that you can hear or see it wobble, there is so little to be potentially gained by fucking about with tape that dismantling your gun just to do it is asking for trouble. In some ways AEG's are pretty simple mechanisms, but the trouble is that the parts are manufactured within varying degrees of tolerance, which means that any particular gun which works, as it is, can go back together seemingly just as it was and not work, apparently for no earthly reason. Naturally you can just re-dismantle it and re-reassemble and often that will do the trick, but trust me, the more you fuck with it, the more likely it is that you will fuck something up...

 

 

 

*CT-2 is brilliant grease for every part of any airsoft gun - it is without question the way forward.

Edited March 25, 2014 by Ian_Gere
4got asterisk

[elrasho]

Thanks for your responce Ian_Gere, I'm not going to bother with stabalising the barrel. I'm going to get a TBB and the MadBull Blue 60 rubber and bucking and take it from there.

 

When I was testing the accuracy I simply hung up a target and from a stationary positon aimed using my Red Dot and fired single shots.

[Ian_Gere]

Yeah, to test accuracy improvements you need a stabilised shooting position and something to fire at about 30-35m away. Crucially it must be a situation you can reproduce again, so that you can compare the effect of any new modifications later; a gun without a bipod can be stabilised well enough by just resting it on something which remains still. It also helps if there is no wind... but not many of us have that length of enclosed space at home. Personally, the building I live in is part way up a hill, so I can aim out of my back room window over the rooftops of neighbours houses (without any chance that the BB is going to hit anybody, since no windows or skylights face my way... but I shoot from well inside the room sniper stylee anyway, just in case there is anybody nearby whose mindset is incompatible with facts when assessing risks); there is a 40mm aluminium pole supporting TV aerials at the right distance but, obviously, I can't attach targets to it, so analysis wise I'm reduced to "ding" hit, or "..." miss and air movement is a real pain in the hole.

 

What I meant above about "Can you... bla...?" is that until you can shoot competently during a skirmish, accuracy mods will not translate into as much improvement in hitting opponents as they may produce during range tests. Also, the more OCD you get about it, hand modifying each component to fit exactly how you want it, etc. the less return, in terms of performance, you get for effort. Plus wind. So really there is only so much effort and/or cash that will prove to have been worthwhile.

[elrasho]

Guns been upgraded. They ran out of stock of the Madbull 347mm so they put in a 329mm instead. At first I wasn't to keen on this but they say it doesn't really make a difference. The new Madbull 60 nub and bucking is in too. Tested it and it's much more accurate, hit the target Everytime! Would recommend this upgrade to anyone wanting better accuracy :-)

[Rock-climby-Dave]

Was about to comment here having done a successful job with one of these today.

Then I realised it was yours that I did. Glad it's working much better now!

[elrasho]

Was about to comment here having done a successful job with one of these today.

 

Then I realised it was yours that I did. Glad it's working much better now!

 

Small world! Thanks Dave. Here's the result of some testing:

 

From 30feet using bastard BBs. All the BBs hit the paper but as you can see most are hitting the bottom left. Not sure if I need to zeroin the red dot, hard to tell. Could be the wind at the bottom of the garden.

 

[elrasho]

Did some more testing and had to target in my garage. Shots are much closer together so it was the wind causing the BBs to hit the bottom left of the target. Amazing results!

[elrasho]

First full day use of my upgraded G36C and I did really well. Got the most kills ever in a game and felt more confdent since my gun is more accuracte. Funny thing is when I got home to clean it there was no dirt in the barrell and I realsied the hop was off! Just goes to show you don't need Hop Up for CQB environements

 

I've got the upgrade itch, what can I do next to make my gun even more bad ass?

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

Stupid High torque motor,like a Chaoli 22TPA or a JG blue motor. Some JG g36s already have the neodymium stupid torque motors which are really efficient and give great response,but it's a rarity. If you can,try find a Chaoli 22TPA motor or something like that.

 

If you do get(Or already have) the super high torque motor,I'd rewire to low resistance wiring,Deans connectors,Wire a mosfet and then run powerful high discharge batteries,but first you might need some Gearbox tuning.Did you have any gearbox work done to it,like Pinion-Bevel reshiom,AOE correction,regrease and all that stuff?

[elrasho]

Stupid High torque motor,like a Chaoli 22TPA or a JG blue motor. Some JG g36s already have the neodymium stupid torque motors which are really efficient and give great response,but it's a rarity. If you can,try find a Chaoli 22TPA motor or something like that.

 

If you do get(Or already have) the super high torque motor,I'd rewire to low resistance wiring,Deans connectors,Wire a mosfet and then run powerful high discharge batteries,but first you might need some Gearbox tuning.Did you have any gearbox work done to it,like Pinion-Bevel reshiom,AOE correction,regrease and all that stuff?

 

I've had none of that stuff done and wouldn't know where to start lol How will the low resistance wiring help? Also what's a mofset?

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

It's a slippery enough slope XD

 

Mosfet protects the trigger contacts and basically makes electricity flow more efficient. It's crucial to running higher power batteries.

 

Low resistance wiring helps current and voltage travel around better,meaning all the power gets to the motor quickly and efficiently,which improves ROF and trigger response.

 

Deans connectors are again,more efficient type of connection compared to the tamiya type.

 

gearbox tuning-A lot of chinese AEGs come with very strong and good quality internals but are not very well assembled,most notably using snot and dried strawberry jam as grease. Shimming is placing precision cut washers(AKA shims) on gear axles to make sure they mesh perfectly. AOE(Angle of engagement) is the angle at which the gear that pulls back the piston(Sector gear) engages the sector. AOE correction involves placing shock absorption pads on the cylinder head to move the piston back so it is engaged at 90 degrees by the sector gear so It won't be at so much stress. A plus of AOE correction is that it also makes your gun quieter as you have shock absorption pads about which will also reduce stress on the shell.

 

Since Patrol base is your local I'd speak to RockClimbeyDave more about this. All this stuff is fairly low cost(Mosfet and the wiring being more expensive,Deans,Shim packets,and sorbopads cost around a fiver each or so depending where you buy)

 

Modern airsoft guns,especially chinese ones and JG in particular rarely need anything replaced. Only thing I'd really replace on your gearbox is the plastic gear bushings with nice quality metal ones(Again,a very cheap upgrade)

[elrasho]

It's a slippery enough slope XD

 

Mosfet protects the trigger contacts and basically makes electricity flow more efficient. It's crucial to running higher power batteries.

 

Low resistance wiring helps current and voltage travel around better,meaning all the power gets to the motor quickly and efficiently,which improves ROF and trigger response.

 

Deans connectors are again,more efficient type of connection compared to the tamiya type.

 

gearbox tuning-A lot of chinese AEGs come with very strong and good quality internals but are not very well assembled,most notably using snot and dried strawberry jam as grease. Shimming is placing precision cut washers(AKA shims) on gear axles to make sure they mesh perfectly. AOE(Angle of engagement) is the angle at which the gear that pulls back the piston(Sector gear) engages the sector. AOE correction involves placing shock absorption pads on the cylinder head to move the piston back so it is engaged at 90 degrees by the sector gear so It won't be at so much stress. A plus of AOE correction is that it also makes your gun quieter as you have shock absorption pads about which will also reduce stress on the shell.

 

Since Patrol base is your local I'd speak to RockClimbeyDave more about this. All this stuff is fairly low cost(Mosfet and the wiring being more expensive,Deans,Shim packets,and sorbopads cost around a fiver each or so depending where you buy)

 

Modern airsoft guns,especially chinese ones and JG in particular rarely need anything replaced. Only thing I'd really replace on your gearbox is the plastic gear bushings with nice quality metal ones(Again,a very cheap upgrade)

 

 

 

Wow thanks for the info mate By doing all this it will increase the life of my gun and make it more reliable. Saying that she has'nt let me down so far Might speak to Dave about getting those plastic gear brushings. Thanks again!

[Ian_Gere]

+1 to what Alex said

 

I've found this MOSFET to be very good... until it burned out lol - but the bloke has sent me another one free of charge, no quibble, so I feel ok recommending it.

 

TBH I have not noticed any difference in performance between Modify silver plated lo-res wire and Maplin 16AWG 2 core (red/black) and the latter is considerably cheaper. Once you have a high C (25C sustained 50C burst) LiPo battery, 16AWG wire and Deans connectors, there is a small but noticeable difference between reusing the spade connectors to connect the motor and soldering the connections instead.

 

If you do go ahead with a MOSFET, you need to make 100% certain of your wires' insulation because the tiniest short can destroy one of the transistors on the MOSFET board.

 

I recommend Turnigy Nano Tech LiPo's from hobbyking.com but it does take a fair while for them to arrive. This is the best deal for Deans that I know of and you don't have to wait long. Heatshrink is essential for preventing shorts - the 3mm clear stuff from here is TDB.

[elrasho]

Thanks for the info guys, here's the list I've made of my next upgrade in this order

 

1. MOFSET and low resistance wiring
2. Transfer to Deans connector
3. Gearbox tuning (Shimming, Metal Brushes, Angle of Engagement)
4. LiPo Battery

 

Think that covers it

[Ian_Gere]

TBH, for the spring strengths we use in the UK, bearings are better than bushes for tuning your gearbox. Kanzen are best; Modify are very good; Element will do.