Moose87 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 i have an SR 16, the weapon fails to fire. i have tested motor and it works. the battery is brand new but i have tested it with a different one as well. i have bypassed the fuse and still nothing. it smacks of a wiring fault but somewhere in the gear box. i cant get the gear box out tho as the pin just above the trigger holding it in refuses to move. anyone else have similar problems or know a solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Rees Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Any other symptoms? Sounds similar to an issue I have had. Mine was trigger switch which, as you say, is in the GB. Check all that you can along the whole circuit to see if you can identify where the current is being lost. If it is identified as being the trigger, and if you feel able, I'd recommend split the GB open (youtube is your friend in this regard - watch for the spring!), clean the trigger switch and re-try. Hope that's of some help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 i have stripped it down to just the gear box in the magazine housing but cant get the gear box out. the magazine release is puzzling me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 ah ha i have found the problem and some substantial damage to the connector in the motor. literally half the positive connector has melted off. soo anyone know what i need to buy?? can i get just a new connector or is it possible to by the whole new trigger mech? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike636 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Was I the only one who thought to forward assist? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 what do you mean?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacMaster Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Was I the only one who thought to forward assist? I don't think he's checked the state of the cocking handle yet, mike edit: 333 posts!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 if you guys arent gonna be helpful then just dont post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike636 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Sorry dude, but I have found you a replacement trigger circuit http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-internal-electronics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Rees Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I'm sure no offence was intended. They are referring to Immediate Action/Gas stoppage drills in real steel weapons handling. These are drilled into military recruits so much that you never forget them! Weapon instructors shout, "Weapon fires, weapon stops" or "Weapon fails to fire". Those of us that have had formal/military weapons training will then immediately think something along the lines of "working parts to the rear, you see rounds in the magazine, no rounds in the chamber. Working parts forward, forward assist, carry on firing". It's just a series of drills you go through when your weapon stops. First course of actions on some weapons is to push the cocking handle forward, known as "forward assist". The title of your thread brings back memories to those of us trained in immediate action drills, that's all. You said the connector on the motor is fried? Without seeing it, it's difficult to say whether it can be repaired. You may have had a loose connector there that was arcing and caused the damage over time. May need to replace the motor and make sure the connectors are tight. If it's the trigger connectors that are fried (the bit where the trolley makes the circuit in the switch when you pull the trigger) you may be able to clean it up and grease it (with a conductive switch grease - don't use gun grease or anything silicone on your electrics), but if it has deteriorated too much, you may need to replace the switch. There are some options on the link above. HTH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Yer i fully aware of IA drills seeing as i have just left the army. i get it now, obviously makes sense now i get what they were referencng, i thought they were just being douche bags at first. i see that my title would give people that idea. yer was a trigger connection that fried, im replacing the switch and wiring to make sure it wont happen again. just gotta hope i can put the gear box back together properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam bussey Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I'm sure no offence was intended. They are referring to Immediate Action/Gas stoppage drills in real steel weapons handling. These are drilled into military recruits so much that you never forget them! Weapon instructors shout, "Weapon fires, weapon stops" or "Weapon fails to fire". Those of us that have had formal/military weapons training will then immediately think something along the lines of "working parts to the rear, you see rounds in the magazine, no rounds in the chamber. Working parts forward, forward assist, carry on firing". It's just a series of drills you go through when your weapon stops. First course of actions on some weapons is to push the cocking handle forward, known as "forward assist". The title of your thread brings back memories to those of us trained in immediate action drills, that's all. You said the connector on the motor is fried? Without seeing it, it's difficult to say whether it can be repaired. You may have had a loose connector there that was arcing and caused the damage over time. May need to replace the motor and make sure the connectors are tight. If it's the trigger connectors that are fried (the bit where the trolley makes the circuit in the switch when you pull the trigger) you may be able to clean it up and grease it (with a conductive switch grease - don't use gun grease or anything silicone on your electrics), but if it has deteriorated too much, you may need to replace the switch. There are some options on the link above. HTH! I still practice those drills even though I was only a cadet for 5 years and have a AEG G36! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Rees Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Yer i fully aware of IA drills seeing as i have just left the army. i get it now, obviously makes sense now i get what they were referencng, i thought they were just being douche bags at first. i see that my title would give people that idea. yer was a trigger connection that fried, im replacing the switch and wiring to make sure it wont happen again. just gotta hope i can put the gear box back together properly. Didn't mean to teach you how to suck eggs. I'm at the same stage with mine - replacing the trigger mech and wiring. Also taking the opportunity to convert the whole thing to Deans and fit a Mosfet. Good luck with the GB re-assembly. Again, youtube, patience and double check everything and you should be fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 its cool man, i have only just started an this is my first weapon so im getting to know the ins and outs of it. i can only find a you tube video in french for my SR 16. but i suppose theres loads for a v2 GB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Rees Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Yeah, if it's a V2 GB, you'll trip over yourself finding YT tutorials for it. Have a look at a few before you start and pick the best one(s) to refer to. First time I stripped mine I had it playing on the iphone on the table next to the GB. Press play, Watch, pause, unscrew, play, watch, pause, unscrew..... etc etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 still having problems lol, might need to pay someone to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 anyone know where you can buy the fuse systems for a AEG cos i cant seem to find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike636 Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 www.thecomponentshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam bussey Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 call fire support they may have some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted June 20, 2013 Supporters Share Posted June 20, 2013 Halfords Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose87 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 i now have another question, i have learnt alot in the last week lol. Right so i have installed a new trigger switch, reassembled the weapon. I pulled the trigger and got vibration in the handle put nothing else, after a few squeezes it seemed to kick in and seems to fire fine. im just worried about that original miss firing, is this common after putting everything back together or has anyone else experienced this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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