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Mesh Goggles


SgtTalbert
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Well finally got off my big behind and did a mini test. This is in no way scientific. I used a 330 FPS m4 firing 0.2g bb's from a distance of 1-2". I fired 10 shots in total at the same point on the target, within a cm or so I would say. I tested a set of heroshark stamped goggles (£25), and hero shark interlaced lower face mask (£30'ish).

A shot of both items with tape measure to show the spacing of the mesh. The mesh of the goggles is a more open type than the ACM brands. It can be molded for a tighter fit to the face, but it needs some persuading! The face mask can be molded easier, but still needs a bit of strength and a handy knee to brace against. A lot harder to move than the cheap ACM lower facemask I also have.

 

hseye1.jpg

hsface1.jpg

 

after shot 1 to each you can see that there is some slight paint chipping on the goggles and paint missing on the mask (to be honest the paint on the mask is very thin and comes off when you sneeze on it)

hseye2.jpg

hsface2.jpg

 

after shot 5 you can see a small indentation on the goggles, and the lacing on the face mask has moved slightly (I would have done each shot but there was just no real difference)

hseye3.jpg

hsface3.jpg

 

after shot 10 to each you can see a slight indentation on the goggles, aproximately 2mm, and a bigger ding of 5mm on the mask with the lacing having moved a bit.

hseye4.jpg

hsface4.jpg

 

and the view from the inside

hseye5.jpg

hsface5.jpg

 

there is some loss of paint on the inside of the mesh goggles, but not significant and lots missing ont he mesh. At no time did I see any bb fragments going through the goggles, but bb's did shatter through the face mask. However in my mind this is fine as it is supposed to blunt any hit, not stop it totally. I have reformed the goggles, but it took a block and hammer, the interlaced mesh was pushed back into its slot with a screwdriver. So overall I am very happy with the result and will carry on using my HS goggles and recomending them to others as a safer alternative to chinease mesh.

now to the first shot

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It doesn't really help up deduct much though, 'cos the fps was such a drop lower than with Ian's test, there's no way to really know for sure whether the mesh is better, or it's just because the lower velocity lacked the punch to show any damage.

 

Maybe the ACM or other branded goggles might hold up equally well if the fps were only around 330 fps.

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As I don't own a sniper or DMR (fing stupid name used by idiots) then you can suggest that Ian conduct a test on the cheap crap goggles at 330fps.....

 

but thanks for your input.

http://www.heroshark.co.uk/faq

 

 

...............off to find my teddy now.............

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Well, my thinking was that we want to know what the worst case scenario is, but I don't have a bolt action sniper (and what's wrong with DMR btw? It's just another TLA :D ). But anyway, as it happened, when I decided to do it, I'd just handed off my AKS 74U (newly named Fatima, for anyone following the saga of my gun's names) which did fire in the low 300's to have a hotter spring put in - it's an ICS and I'll tell you what ppl, I took every bit of it off that comes off without breaking something and I'm fcuked if I could work out how to break it down far enough to get the fcuking gearbox out! Sabine, my other AK, is still awaiting a rebuild, but she's hot too...

 

I'll keep the knackered goggles and give them another going over when I can guarantee consistency sub 350FPS. Still, bigshep, you could always upgrade your poxy spring also...

 

 

arf arf...

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I can set my L85 up within minutes to be shooting just about anything between the 330 and 390 area, so if you've got a pair of the goggles handy next time we're at skirmish, we can get the chrono and do a thorough test on them.

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There's enough room on the lenses of the ones I used above to have another two goes, Ed, so yeah. I propose we do one side like I did above but @330-ish and the other as close to 350 as you can get from 1" on full auto - because I reckon that is the only way that an accident could feasibly happen which might puncture them.

 

We can count how many BB's are missing from your locap so we can compare and, by known rate of fire, work out how long it takes. TBH though, I'll not be that surprised if it takes more than a full mag, because of the energy lost by BB's hitting each other.

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  • 3 months later...

Only order Hero Sharks in black if I was you!!

 

I ordered a pair of Hero Shark Makos in Tan and it was there worse spay job I have ever seen! EVER! The build isnt that bad but the Website shows you pictures of the older mesh he uses (one bloke making them in a shed somewhere) the hole size is about 30% smaller on the ones he sends out now. I felt very miss leaded by the pictures and the website and the spay job was just another kick in the nuts, He didn't even take off the strap that goes round the back of your head so that go completely covering in paint too.

 

I sent an email of complaint and was offered a full refund. I chose to keep them and completely stripped the paint off (the strap was a right off) and respray them myself. took about and hour and was a 5000% improvement on what I received.

 

If you do ordered them, GET THEM IN BLACK!!!

 

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379337_10151530423711060_1704807154_n.jp

 

481044_10151530423656060_15236912_n.jpg

 

IMG_20130221_175645.jpg

 

IMG_20130223_204515.jpg

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I got my HS cheap from a retailer closing down. Glad they were because, although the paint job is fine (they are black), the mesh doesn't disappear from my view in the way it does when I'm wearing cheap ones.

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