SCAR_Jester
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Posts posted by SCAR_Jester
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12 minutes ago, xWebster said:
has anyone had a problem with paying gunfire?
I paid the full amount which they asked for the website and they've emailed saying I still have €30 to pay, bear in mind I paid in £'s?
I've spent almost £300 so I can't fathom why they're asking for more...
been waiting 3 days for someone to email me back...
So the price was £300 (you're sure?) which you paid and now they want more?
I've never had an issue however if you think all is fine you could try and call them.
It is possible you read €300 as £300, however regardless sites dont let you pay custom amount so I doubt that's the reason.
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Just now, Duff said:
I just spoke to a very helpful bloke from this company:
https://www.handsmetals.co.uk/scrap-metal-prices/
Wwho advises they take empty non valve cartridges and the minimum weight to recycle is 1kilo. According to their price chart, a tonne of ally would net anywhere between £400-800 GBP.
That all sounds good till you realise that's 83-84,000 canisters...
Suppose after a few months of heavy Co2 use you could make a few bucks back.
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11 minutes ago, Duff said:
Is there a recommended way to dispose of used Co2 cartridges?
I was under the impression that an empty metal canister could be recycled, then again some sites put them in general waste bins...
The Depot (Glasgow) have started to collect them and use them to weigh down props for the "Must have 2 people lift" - in theory so it really does need two people to lift! (also loud, which is another cool in-game factor).
Probably not helpful but I think the answer is, no there's no special way like batteries.
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So I'm trying to put in some new gears to my ICS CXP 16 L, however when I get to the "switch to semi and pull gearbox out" part, it comes out half way then gets stuck. Am I missing something because I have no idea what is going on and there is no visual sign of something stopping it from budging.
(and yes all other steps have been checked twice)
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks
- Corky
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Ok, fixed the blasted thing. Originally the piston was stuck in the gears and after I fixed that problem I placed the cutoff lever in
Top tip fro any M14 owners, the cutoff lever has to go in at specific turns on the sector gear as it can get caught on a part if it goes in at the wrong rotation (at least mine did)
So yes, fixed.
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Check that it seats correctly in the box shell, that its the right way round, the spring engages it correctly and there are no signs of damage on the latch or the gear
Righto, will do. I'll reply later tonight when I'm free and able to open it up
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The anti reversal latch has given me bother in the past. Could try that.
What should I do with it?
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Of course the gears won't budge, they are under tension by a strong spring.
The only thing I can think of is the trigger contacts are slipping out of place or the selector plate is iffy. I've had this before with my AK a few times, had to realign some parts regarding the trigger and now works fine. Check the internals of the gun itself too, maybe something had broken off and is catching on the gearbox.
Tried looking inside already, oddly enough when it was stuck the sector gear was not near the piston to stop it from moving when pushed by hand.
Don't know how trigger contacts would be a problem, I mean the motor actually gets power, you can feel it try and move slightly as well as the battery heats up fast so contacts are fine.
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Hi all,
Got my Cyma M14 and for a while it worked very well, have not opened it up past taking the barrel out to put in a new hop bucking.
Suddenly when firing it jams and all I hear is *click*
I took out the gearbox and the motor was trying to turn but couldn't.
I checked all solder point and even if the motor was going the right way with 3 different fully charged 8.4v NimH's.
I tried moving the gears by hand and it wouldn't budge, opened it up and it turns perfectly. I am completely baffled by this and have no idea what is causing it as all possibilities I know off have been checked off.
It should also be noted that the cutoff lever for changing between semi and full-auto will happily go to full-auto position but only when the gears are in the correct rotation position will it go to semi-auto.
After opening the box for a 3rd time and closed it up, it fired one shot on semi, I then put it on full auto and it just went *click*
If anyone has a fix or could help with this that would be great.
Thanks
- Corky
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So I think I have a wee shopping list of basic parts to make the gun wind up a bit quicker and help it last longer. Let me know what you all think.
ZCI reinforced 13:1 gears http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gears/zci-gear-set-13-1
ZCI reinforced piston w/ 14 teeth steel http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/zci-piston-14-teeth-reinforced
ZCI nylon piston head (small upgrade from stock one nothing fancy) http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/zci-piston-head-nylon
Gate PicoSSR3, small, cheap and easy to solder with no fancy things I don't need http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gate-electronics-mosfet-switch-picossr3
SHS High torque motor http://www.amazon.co.uk/SHS-TORQUE-MOTOR-AIRSOFT-GEARBOX/dp/B00DPIVUG2
Deans (dumbass question but are these real or "fakes" as I've heard fakes exist?) http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__11961__Nylon_T_Connectors_10_Pairs_20pc_.html
And as big a LiPo as I can fit in a crane stock (7.4v)
As I said, only the basic stuff. Keeps the cost down and gives me what I want.
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A word of caution if building that spec box....
use 7.4v ffs NOT 11.1v to test fire it
that spec build will be hitting 25 to 30rps on 7.4v 25c lipo
You connect an 11.1v to that box without doing more work I will guarantee two things
It will deffo double cycle on semi unless an AB mosfet fitted
(may even start to double cycle now n then on 7.4v)
As 11.1v is 50% more juice that 7.4v (3 cells rather than 2 x 3.7v cells)
it will run at nigh on 50% faster......
eg: 37 to 45rps and at that speed your new piston will DEFFO Pre Engage and strip out say teeth 5, 4 & 3
PE can take place at around 30rps upwards on stock spring & piston
(it "can" get very close to PE at 25rps but only if your piston is very heavy or sluggish (binding a bit inside the box))
Some torque motors are not much faster than stock ferrite motors - perhaps the ZCI one but can pull a tank
Others are quite torquey but very quick too like shs or Big Dragon M160
so it is difficult to guess what your rps might be coming in at but I firmly believe it would be in the 25-30 range on 12:1 gears on 7.4v
Having recently shredded 2 pistons by taking the pi$$ a bit I strongly urge you to go easy when testing that build
An AB fet will stop the double cycle on semi but won't do jack to stop PE on full auto
The last piston to shred on 11.1v was actually short stroked 2 teeth on a m115-m120 spring but at 45+ it didn't make the 2nd round on full auto
31.5 on 7.4v but smashed f*ck on 11.1v
maybe 14:1 gears, m110 spring and the shs blue 3 steel tooth is lovely n light @11.5gms, remove 1 tooth off piston/sector
up to you what you chuck in there but seriously test on 7.4v first and depending on results and how much you did your homework....
then decide if she might be ok to risk it on 11.1v with an aprox 50% higher rof
I don't think I want to mess with a micro switch at the moment, so that'll help a little in the scar factor. I may as well just get a new strong piston for durability. Also I'm strung between the performance and reinforced 13:1 ZCI gears, what do you think?
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Pretty much what lozart said
Shs 13.1 gear set
Lonex blue piston
Lonex pom piston head
Lonex a2 titan motor
Gate nano ab mosfet
Do lose the turbo 3000 they are not bad but for £45 the lonex is better.
If you haven't changed to deans connectors already do that as well.
Change the trigger switch to a micro switch and get an adjustable trigger and away you go.
It will fire as fast as you can pull the trigger and be solid as well, as long as you shim it properly.
Thanks, and yeah I got plenty of shims lying around!
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I swear by Gate Electronics ones. I have a Nano AB in my M4 and a Pico AAB in my AK. They're well built and a decent price with full instructions. If you don't need active braking then the SSR models are the ones to go for. Lots of places sell them (including Amazon).
was thinking of an AB one but then again I have an external spring decompress button, also I don't care about expelling a few extra bb's on full auto if it saves me a few £ in a mosfet. Was looking into a gate's one already due to some of their sizes, but I'll look around for some cheaper ones perhaps.
thanks again, I think that's me sorted now
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You're right with what you were thinking up to a point, that's why lots of people go the route suggested of mixing high speed gears with a high torque motor. The motor overcomes its inertia more quickly and the gears allow it the top end. Not as a rate of fire as with a high speed motor and not as high potential FPS as an all out torque setup.
The manufacturers mentioned were in order of cost by the way - cheapest (ZCI) to most expensive (Lonex/Siegetek) but they're all good. I'm about to do a build like this for a buddy in his MP5 with ZCI 13:1 gears, Lonex POM head, SHS Hi Torque motor, Core airseal nozzle and a ZCI piston. Sorbo pads from ProAirsoft and new set of shims.
Right that's perfect news to hear.
I'll fiddle with it and not bother with a motor replacement from the "ICS turbo 3000" right now, and see how it goes. but I might in the future.
Last question I promise (maybe)
Can you give me an idea of a good mosfet to buy? When I said I lack experience, that was as in 0 experience
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hooooookay then.
First off 13:1 is a high SPEED set of gears not high TORQUE. What you actually want is a high torque MOTOR (ZCI, SHS, Lonex) coupled with high speed gears (ZCI, SHS Supershooter, Siegetek) or just an out and out high speed setup. High torque gearboxes are built to pull big springs for high FPS and generally aren't terribly "snappy".
If you're looking to improve your trigger response then a Mosfet - hardwired not plug and play - is the easiest way to do this. If you're planning on running an 11.1v LiPo then it's a must to stop you burning out your trigger contacts.
AoE correction using sorbo pads will help quieten your gearbox, also look at a Lonex POM piston head.
Trigger pull - http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/speed-m4-blade-trigger-silver OR just fit a BTC mosfet that replaces the trigger contact block.
While you're at it, get a set of shims because the gears you fit will not fit the same as the gears you take out.
You're a star, thanks for the help once again!
So just aim for high speed then I assume? (I was going on the principal that torque was get off the line fast and get rid of inertia fast for semi-auto build or whatever)
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So I love my ICS CXP - 16 L proline and want to make it better,
By better I mean snappier trigger response, little quieter (if possible) and generally just more torque [Will be playing a lot of CQB soon so not much point making a speed build but instead a high torque for the large amounts of semi-auto action.]
I've looked about and as far as I know the wires are good to go (16 awg teflon coated),
gears are metal but I will replace with some form of 13:1 high torque (please advise me on a make)
I will correct the AoE (got pads on the way)
I want to use an 11.1v lipo (on its way too) - So, age old question, to mosfet or not? (I know the theory just lack the experience)
piston upgrade?
And how do I go about decreasing the distance the trigger is pulled?
Thanks in advanced to any and all replies!
- Corky
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I'd say that if you're sitting back and trying to take out stuff from 25m+ then trying to hit anything moving perpendicular to yourself is going to be a challenge, regardless of the speed of your BBs.
I'd also really like to stress again that it's nothing but a bad idea to throw such a high powered spring into something that hasn't got a decent cylinder or particularly good gears; I've seen it end in tears many times. You could end up costing yourself a lot of money by having to replace the entire gearbox. I know it's all rather temping, but just be careful. If you're going for a slow build then perhaps upgrade the barrel first (keeping it the same length of course unless you're looking to get the cylinder immediately), then the motor, then the cylinder and finally the gears and spring.
And you've said you know your site limits but, as I've just posted, 450fps is well outside of both Section 8 and Airsoft Edinburgh's site limits. Are you looking to lock it to semi? Even so, that would still not be site legal for Section 8.
Of course it would be locked to semi, and I will look into stronger parts, I don't play at section8 much at all anymore so having a hot gun for there isn't a problem.
Also, (not 100% I need to do more research) but I'm fairly sure this specific gun's gears can take the stronger spring, but the cylinder itself I will probably have to replace.
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Perhaps it's just your wording, but you may have made the classic mistake of thinking work = FPS. I know for a fact that Section 8 (to take one of the sites you play at) has an FPS limit of 360 on fully automatic guns; using heavier BBs may reduce the velocity, but not the overall energy of the BB.
Changing your FPS really isn't always entirely necessary when you're using heavier BBs. Indeed, if you go in with the expectation of getting ~350fps with a .36 or something, then that's considered cheating the chrono and may have you thrown out.
The maths:
~360fps (which is what you should be at right now) with a .2 is 1.2J
~450fps with a .2 is 1.88J, which far exceeds almost every site limit in the UK for automatic weapons
If you were to use a .28 or .36 with an upgrades spring then you'd be putting out 380fps and 335fps respectively buy again, the work stays the same (at 1.88J). Sites tend to put the FPS limit in as it's easier for people to understand, but what they're really after is the energy of each shot being at the site limit. For Section 8 that's:
My advice: Buy those heavier BBs and crank your hop up to see if it'll cope. If it does then you're golden, and will only need to conduct minor upgrades. If your M14 is hitting 360-370 already, then that's the high end of being site legal anyway for fully automatics, and you should probably not take it any further.
Don't worry I know my site limits and all the rest, this is going to be a VERY slow DMR build as I have a lot going on right now, so first is what do I need for a DMR, which would be range and accuracy, but as a DMR sitting back a bit, I need my bb's to go fast enough to count. Then I go for the things that increase lifespan, make things work faster and smoother. Then the fine tuning and little fiddly bits.
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If all the parts are stock, then don't upgrade the spring alone. As a rule of thumb with any airsoft gun: You can't just upgrade 'one thing' - different tolerances and materials mean you'll stress certain parts far more than others (and that will break things).
That said, an M130 or 40 should be enough to get you up to 450fps. Just, again, seriously consider upgrading the cylinder, spring guide and motor first. CYMA internals are alright, but nothing to write home about.
Any brand of spring will do, frankly. Madbull ones are quite easy to find in the UK and will set you back around £15 if you include postage.
Yeah I know I'm making a list to upgrade the gun, barrel and hopup work really well stock so I don't want to mess with that just yet (crazy accurate), I just want a higher fps so I can put heavier bb's in, the gun has the range at the moment
And as for the internals I'm gonna just correct AoE, reshim, clean it all up and a new motor. I'll look into replacing the cylinder for longevity reasons too, bit it isn't at the top of my list.
Thanks though
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As the title suggests I'm looking for a god spring to put my CYMA M14 EBR into the 450fps zone, anyone that can say "will get you abut 450" or "I KNOW it will give 450" is great!
All parts are stock.
Thanks
- Corky
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Yes, you can use an HT motor with a Nimh but you won't get the best performance out of it. I've run mine standard on a 7.4v LiPo and it's pretty decent as is. I'd try it before you start ripping it apart...
Roger that
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Thanks all, got all the info I needed, sorry about the ICS gun confusion to some of you (I know the ICS turbo 3000 is pretty good, I've out performed some 9.6v's with an 8.4v in it
)So I'll look into a rewire (maybe) just to make things that wee bitty better, mosfet is now a must if/when I get a lipo.
Last question (I swear!):
Can I use a high torque motor well with an 8.4v battery or is it a dumb idea and should do the whole lot together?
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170% should be much harder to pull than a 130% one and reasonably more FPS. high torque motor prob required there, depends what motor you got in it already.
Guessing it's the ICS CXP16L?
ICS are a wierd one, their standard euro-version of the CXP16 will have a motor with enough torque (3000 model i think), but many UK retailers have got them to put a lesser motor in guns supplied to them (such as Fire Support as Frank told me) as the springs are down-graded to meet UK fps limits and not required...
No mate its for a Cyma M14 EBR (havent updated my guns yet haha)
Gun picture thread
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
Where can you get a tank stock for it and how much?!
Ive only put off tippmann because of the line!