ParHunter

Hi A bit of a rant here, it seems that most parts, gear etc on Airsoft websites are always out of stock and when it is in stock they charge £5.99 delivery even if it is a small part that could be sent as a letter? I understand that you can’t stock everything but there should be one website somewhere in the UK that has an item in stock (e.g. trying to find a AAP CTM pistol holster or a simple rail attachment for it). It makes shopping for Airsoft equipment very frustrating when you get lots of search results for an item but when you then click on it it tells you it is out of stock. A couple of website at least show ‘In European Warehous’ aka ‘we can back order it’. Any idea why it is so bad with all things Airsoft? And why is it cheaper to ship something across the world from China via Alliexpress than it is to ship from somewhere in the UK? Ok rant over.

May I ask why you prefer the first two over the CTM?

Hi, I’ve recently got myself my first pistol, an AAP-01. Now I am looking for a holster for that pistol. I will probably attach it to a belt (I could attach one via molle to the side of the plate carrier but that feels too high up). Anyway I regress. What holsters would you recommend that secure the pew pew while being able to draw it quickly. I can see 3d printed ones on eBay. Has anyone tried it? What other options are there (without spending too much). Thanks for your help

Isn’t that the definition of a General 😉

Don’t get me wrong. The last thing I would like is to have a Sargent Major shouting at me 😉 I had enough of that in my army days! But it feels everyone is trying to pull a heavy weight on their own when it would be so much easier if they would team up and pull together.

Hi, My son (14) got me into Airsoft and I enjoy it more than I should for my age 😉 But I’ve found that most people just fight for themselves without much strategy or team work. You often end up with static situations where both sides are shooting at each other without much movement. In the army you would do fire and movement. So one fire team suppresses the enemy with fire while the other fire team moves into a better position. Then they would switch roles (simple scenario). But how do you get players that might not know each other and most likely won’t have an army background to do co-ordinated attacks? I’ve tried it with my son but he just thinks I am ‘over thinking this’.

So I am still not sure whether it is worth chasing the higher Joule output (getting closer to 1.14J). I would have to upgrade the spring to probably a M110 (a M120 would probably make the gun too hot) but would the 20k motor cope with that spring? The US model uses a 30k motor for the stronger springs. On top of that I would need to get a new barrel and a new hop rubber. I would love to hear from other Krytac Trident (SPR) users who have upgraded their gun and whether it made a difference to their game.

Looks like the PDW has a stronger spring in the UK (from Krytac website) United Kingdom (UK) TRIDENT (Except PDW), Barrett REC7, War Sport LVOA Series Spring: M100 Motor: KRYTAC 20K TRIDENT (PDW, PDW-M) Spring: M120 Motor: KRYTAC 30K Why would a higher fps not give a longer range? It might not be a longer effective range (so might get more offline) but the distance should increase. Where else would the extra power go? Other SPR owners, have you upgraded your spring, added better hop rubber and did it make a noticeable difference?

Hi A couple of months ago i got my first AEG, a Krytac Trident MKII SPR-M and I am quite pleased with it. This time when I got chronoed I’ve asked what the Joule output was of my gun was (I can’t read the output when I got my contact lenses in). It was quite low at 0.85J (255 fps with 0.28 bbs). The guy who tested it said that his CRB has a higher output. On the field another guy checked what gun I had, he had the PDW version of the Trident and his Joule rating was even higher (we did chrono it on the field). That got me thinking whether there is anything wrong with my gun (it shoots nicely though!) When I got home I checked at what it was rated at PatrolBase and it roughly matched. If you go from PDW -> CRB -> SPR your Joule output dropped: UK (barrel length, Joule output) PDW 155 1.01 J / w.20 CRB 280 0.92 J / w.20 SPR 416 0.85 J / w.20 However when you check the Krytac US rating apart from it being higher (as they don’t have the lower 1.14J limit) the SPR actually has the higher output: US PDW 155 1.14 J / w.20 CRB 280 1.49 J / w.20 SPR 416 1.56 J / w.20 I assume all internal components between the 3 models are the same apart from Barrel length and probably spring. My assumption is that for the US marked the SPR has a stronger spring compared to the CRB or PDW while in the UK they just put the same M100 (or is it a M90?) spring in for all 3 models. The Krytac manual actually states a power output of 1.24J for the UK version which would be above the legal limit. So my questions are: a) Why does the power drop between the PDW, CRB and SPR if all internals are the same apart from the barrel length. b) What improvement could I expect if I could get the output to 1 - 1.1J? c) What would I have to do to increase the power? Would it be a spring upgrade or would a change to a e.g. 6.03 barrel with a Maple leaf hop rubber help to increase the power. Thanks for your feedback

I tried it out at home to see whether it would be an option but the problem is that you cannot use the PTT when the phone is locked. You can receive messages when it is locked but if you want to say something you would need to unlock the phone and you don’t want to get your phone out during a game.

Has anyone tried to use phones with bluetooth headsets and push to talk apps like Zello? I was looking around for Bluetooth headsets with push to talk buttons but couldn’t find much. The technology is there I am surprised it isn’t used in Airsoft.

I was looking at the Vector Optics Forestor Gen 2 1-5. I tried it out at PatrolBase and really liked it. But before I could buy it I played a game, stumbled over a root that was sticking out and fell flat on the ground with my gun in front of me. If I would have had a scope on it there would have been a good chance that it would have broken. That convinced me to spend £70 more and get a Vortex Crossfire 2 1-4 as the Vortex Warranty would have covered that accident.

Are you referring to Vortex or Vector optics?

The website is still up https://www.incursionairsoft.co.uk/epsom-cqb-bunker and it has some dates listed but not what year 😉 But when I checked a month ago they didn’t have August dates and now some are listed.

Hi, So far my son and I have been playing woodland sites but now we want to try CQB and the closest side to us is Epsom CQB Bunkers. Has anyone played it recently. Is it any good? I’ve only seen posts from 8 years ago. Is it advisable to wear a full face helmet like a paintballl mask or is a full seal goggle plus a balaclava with mesh guard for mouth protection good/save enough? How dark are the tunnels? We only have dark goggles. Do you have to have flash lights? I’ve only got a long gun (Krytac Trident SPR), Is it still enjoyable to play CQB with a gun like that? My son got a short AK so he should be fine.

Good to hear. I just bought a Vortex Crossfire 2 LPVO just for this reason.

First of all I am ‘not the guy who doesn’t call his hits’. Otherwise I wouldn’t have asked the question in the first place. I was trying to understand whether you can reliable feel whether something is a direct hit or not. It seems the answer is no you can’t. I think it would be better to drop the ‘bounce rule’ altogether as it just opens up a grey zone.

The side I am mainly playing at as the rule that reflective bounces do not count (e.g. off the floor, walls or trees). Identifying a direct hit is normally not a problem as I can feel and hear it. However sometimes I notice something that feels like someone tossed a BB at me, often from the side. So basically no power left. That either means it bounced off something (e.g. trees or floor) or is a direct hit from long distance towards the end of the flight path. But how do you tell? If the rule would just be every hit (direct or indirect) counts than it would be easy but how do you tell wether a hardly noticeable ‘hit’ is from a bounce or a long distance direct hit?

That is a very good warranty! Even being shot out by bbs? Are the lenses supposed to survive that? I can’t find anything where they state that. I was always surprised that they sell scopes but without any protection for the lenses (apart from for storage). So I guess the £80 could be worth it? But back to my question, would you expect a scope to break or not? I’ve looked at the warranty for the Vector Optics one: I guess falling on your face with the gun in front of you would be classified as ‘improper handling’ 😉

Hi, I’ve had my first game with my new Krytac Trident today. I haven’t decided yet on a LPVO/red dot yet so I was just playing without any. 1 minute into one of the games (in the mad dash to a good position) I tripped over root that was sticking out and fell forward onto my gun (parallel to ground). The gun was fine only my shoulder still hurts as I fell onto the stock. That made we wonder. If I would have bought one of the options I am eyeing, a Vector Optics LPVO for about £120, would that have survived the fall or would that have been the end of it? What about a LPVO from Vortex for £200. Would that have survived? Thanks for your advice.

I’ve tried the screws to adjust the sight but that only moves it slightly. It doesn’t change where the ring clicks in. It looks like it might be adjustable with two prongs (the two notches should be either at 3 and 9 o’clock or 12 and 6 o’clock. But I don’t want to force anything in case I break it (and void the warranty).

Hi, I’ve just received my brand new SA-H22 and I am a bit gobsmacked by the iron sight. The rear iron sight is a metal ring with 4 holes or different sizes. You can rotate them and they click in place. The only problem is with WHERE they click in place I can see that there are two screws which are probably used for adjusting windage and elevation but I can’t imaging you will be able to adjust it but that much. I haven’t found anything on the internet on how to adjust these sights. Has anyone got a link? One other thing I am having problems with is my battery. I got a crane stock battery but it won’t fit in the stock. It seems the H416 stock can only take very small batteries (the diameter is about 1.8 cm and the battery i have is 2 cm wide).

I’ve taken the hop out as much as I could but it was still missing to the right. I’ve rotated the gun anti-clockwise by 90 degree and it was now shooting straight but above target (basically what you would expect). Adding hop back did not change the results dramatically. I will go to a friends place on Wednesday who’s got a large garden (max 100m range) with no neighbours. There I will be able to see whether the bbs are slicing (golfer’s term for balls curving to the right because of side spin) or whether the sights are not aligned.

Hi, My son just received his CYMA G36 Highspeed gun. We have been testing it on a small garden range of max 10m and the gun has a definite right bias. It is about 5cm off from 5m (so without curving it would be 0.5m from 50m). When you just look at the bbs it fires fine and it looks straight but at 10m you can’t really see whether the bbs are curving or not. I guess there are 3 potential problems The ironsight is not aligned properly (you can’t zero the ironsight) The barrel is misaligned (either horizontally or slightly rotated) The hop is imparting side-spin (e.g. pressing down more on one side than the other) The 3rd is probably the most likely one but I will only be able to confirm that if I can observe the flight on a longer shot. How would you go on to investigate and fix it? What tolerances would you expect from an Airsoft gun. Is a miss of 5cm from 5m acceptable or is there a problem? Cheers ParHunter