Cipher-032

This should suit your requirements then: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/angry-gun-mil-spec-cnc-6-position-buffer-tube-marui-mws-version As an airsoft gun, im not sure whether it would take a real steel tube. But they can take real steel handguards, so wouldnt surprise me if it could.

"NOTICE: We do not sell or ship our products outside of the Continental United States. Export of the commodities described herein is strictly prohibited without a valid export license issued by the U.S. Department of State, Office of Defense Trade Controls, prescribed in the International Traffic in Arms Regulation (ITAR). We are unable to ship these items to foreign addresses, including APO/FPO addresses for deployed service members." Sorry to burst your bubble... unless you are in the USA, or have a friend in the USA.

Im guessing thats how some one singed it in the past. It came with a magpul style RIS sling point with the gun.

Okay, so actual progress now! i did my sear mod. 2mm drill bit, extra due care, some glue and 2mm rod. Rack the gun, she shoots, bolt locked back? New mag in and send it home, she shoots. Much more reliable now! Hopefully she stays that way so I can use it for a game!

I already bought a right hand chassis because of this issue, but now the left hand has broken... urghhhhhh! That’s another £30 odd part I need once in stock

I did, and as I assumed, its the bolt not contacting the full auto sear. You can add all the tape you want to the trigger bar. Its the bolt that has to contact that sear, to release the hammer. The trigger bar doesnt effect it. The best way to simulate this is by removing the chassis from the body. Remove the trigger bar and spring Pull down the hammer by hand. Then pull the semi sear (The part the trigger bar connects to) all the way forward. I guarantee nothing happens. Reach in and push the Auto sear forward, and the hammer will now fall once you pull the semi sear. Unless the newer sears are modified slightly, and my MP7 has a very worn out sear/older design. The only fix is to add material to the auto sear, the bolt, or use a stronger recoil spring

The cost to play, rather reoccurring games, and medic rule are what stops me from playing there. I seriously hate making a 60+ shot with a sniper rifle, scoring a good hit, only for said player to be tapped on the shoulder to be "Medic* back into the game. Pointless. And to top it off this can be done twice. The site is great, dont get me wrong. But I find it hard to cough up £35 compared to what I used to get at UCAP Sandpit. Maybe add some variation to the games, and have a 10 second regen rule. Make it worth reviving a player worth a risk. Not just run past him and tap his back sort of thing.

Totally depends on the gun you are building. Why not just run a Suppressor on the end of your current set up, and see how it feels to use? If its too long, shorted the rail and outer barrel, and allow the inner barrel to run into the suppressor

Cant really find parts for it any where to be frank. Only one I found was the 150% spring. So its that, or modify the sear. Which im considering doing. I always have a tin of gas with me on the field so if I run out, its not an issue.

So I made a break though with the MP7 today. Parts came from Eagle 6. New rocket valve and the dodad that holds it in. The OEM Rocket valve is much smaller and has a restricter in place. FPS is now 310 on White, and 330 on green! WHOOOO! We are finally making steps! Now to swap gas routers and see which provide a better seal. Most likely TM. My 150% recoil spring is now dispatched from china, which will solve the dead trigger for sure. Also renamed the thread for something more fitting. Keep tuned for more things to go wrong. Im sure they will!

Nope! Im not sure how it got behind the bolt.

@Wo1f, the bolt is failing to engage the full auto sear, which causes the dead trigger. I might try what you’ve suggested. Either that or I’m adding some rod to the bolt to contact it sooner @heroshark, I have the one you linked fitted to the gun. Granted it fires at about 1.1j on a 2 with Nuprol 1 also the rocket valve decided to go boom in good fashion today! So the MP7 didnt get used. A lot of carnage in the barrel.

Bb exploded inside the gun today. A lot went into the trigger group and I lost semi function. Time to strip, check and polish that notchy trigger

Found the guy, he’s called Rouge some thing. He explains the issue well, says to make the sear spring “lighter”. Ive trimmed the said spring. And makes little difference. The issue is the bolt not hitting home with enough force to hit the sear. He also said that a 150% recoil spring will help the issue. So I’ve found a creation recoil spring and ordered it from China. ive also polished the chassis and bolt for extra cyclic rate. @Wo1f, the nineball routes help keep the FPS down a touch but offer good efficiency still. Once I can nab a stock nozzle I will. Just hope they can stand Nuprol 1. If not I have spares!

EDIT: This thread is dedicated to my very old, abused, probably 4th hand TM MP7 GBBR. You’ll find some good sources of fixes below. A month or so ago I bought a slightly used, and abused second hand TM MP7 GBB with 5 mags for a decent price. Came with a few extra's. Which is great! Needless to say this gun has been a labour of love to get working right. Leaking mags, broken parts of the chassis. Much swearing and threatening to throw it off a cliff. But I kept at it. So, After every thing is finalised. It has a Mod Tan bucking, and the Nineball gas routes fitted. It also came with a Guns Modify nozzle. Fill a mag with green gas (Nuprol 2.0) and im getting 360FPS. Pop a stock gas route back in and it starts creeping to 370. I had the thing firing at 380FPS at one point! So I buy some Nuprol 1.0, and it fires bang on 350. Only downside is I had to trim a coil off the buffer spring (The spring on the stock plate) for the bolt to travel back far enough to engage bolt lock reliably. So if I find and fit a stock nozzle, and return it back to stock it might fire 350 on Nuprol 2. What FPS readings are you getting? It be nice to run the gun safely on Nuprol 2 for the crisper function. But I have no idea if the FG discs will fit, and no known NPAS's are available. (That I can find). I have no clue why this thing fires so hot! (For a TM any way) I will mention, I did use it on a warm afternoon, on Nuprol 1, with the little tweaks, and it worked well! But god the recoil spring is sill weak to reset the auto sear. Hate having dead trigger after bolt release!

If your using the Flamingo in your stock hop up chamber, your using the bare minimum of the hop patch in the bucking. Have the barrel and hop assembly out and press on the lever and look at the patch and you'll see what I mean. Yeah it will lift ammo, but not to the buckings full potential. Ive tried it in the Laylax hop unit, And still have contact issues. In the laylax unit its stupidly tight, and wont put pressure on the arm. Back to Mod tan and SixG. ill use the flamingo's in my Pistols.

I did the same, striped it down, and found the barrel nut worked its way loose from vibrations...

Now how do I carry all the expensive fragile mags...

If you are already 100% happy with your MWS's accuracy, then no need to change. Just stick to what you have. The Mod tan and SixG nub has cemented itself as the "Go to" set up. It just works. How ever Im a mechanic by trade. And I enjoy tinkering and trying stuff so thats why ive forked out the extra to get the right hop unit to make the Flamingo work. Any bet the Laylax unit will make the normal set up even better too. From the initial get go of the Flamingo bucking in my HK45, it was consistent and accurate. Some thing the TNT TR buckings really are not. Mainly due to the small locating tab allowing it to rotate in the hop unit.

Remember you can remove the fill valves from the brass fitting that holds the tube! No risk that way!

Ive bit the bullet and ordered a hop unit. Obviously in time will see how it performs, once broken in etc. If not I wasted a good chunk of £30 for them all. But if you dont try, you dont know. But I am looking forward to using the SRS buckings. Its funny cause my TM MP7 GBB uses a similar design as the Laylax unit to push on the bucking centrally. Probably would work well in that unit. Ill get back to you guys once ive had some results.

Update on Flamingo buckings: Needs a the Laylax hop unit to work really. The stock Marui unit just pushes down on the first part of the contact patch, and not the whole area, regardless of nub. How ever, What I can tell you these do fit the stock Marui barrels. I've fit one to my HK45 with a H plate, and it shoots just as good as the mod tan currently. Ill range test it at the field Sunday

Stay tuned!

Annoyingly my boss has now switched my Saturdays. Doesnt mater though. Ill have a look into them. If not its a case of running the Mk23 as a primary