Wild Weasel

MWS Complete setup on classifieds- gas rifles _ check it out. Cheers

I used to use Wurth dry chain lube but I found in the colder months it became to sticky and slowed the bolt catch down causing it to fail. I only use it in hot dry conditions now and use Parker Hale gun oil on metal to metal contacts

Check the screw holding the hop adjuster is tight as it can cause it to catch the bolt and wind the hop off?

Have a look at Ollie talks Airsoft on you tube!

I have one for lack of better option (John Wick fde no.) (eagle 6 has been out for over a year now) looks a bit flimsier and had a fold up hammer reset block but is quite light and improves gas usage and accuracy believe it or not! Point to note if you are not getting a complete bolt and just the BCG, some sealing buffers will not work in it I recommend using a dp enhanced sealing buffer (green one) as the TM and some of the angry gun ones drag like mad in there. Fire support were very kind in sending me a selection of which I went with a DP enhanced.

Cut mine 15mm past the valve top by making a bench hook and using the same hacksaw 'kerf' to ensure some sort of consistency over all my mags by having the syphon tubes exactly the same. The three weights are for inside the buffer and the tube is to take up the slack.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/vism-barrel-nut-wrench-for-m-p-15-22-22lr.html Sorry folks I know this has been covered but can somebody confirm this is suitable to remove the barrel nut on a Mk 18 please? EDIT : just noticed that is not shipping to the United Kingdom ( asking for a mate) Any suggestions for one that we can get hold of quicker in the uk please?

Any word on these yet please folks? https://youtu.be/CsknN0vq_Vs

This is mine and a few others findings, it's shared so feel free to upload your own data. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lfmKJtQm-qGtE-EJLlXXixfkon5uT6nDdt7BJOOOb1o/edit?usp=drivesdk

Hi, Yeah you need to fit a spacer as the barrel nut won't hold the barrel in if you change it and you can just pull out. Further reading of faq's https://docs.google.com/document/d/10RLbvPbq-HXDayhcAIPHgoSTcFIcd3Q5PKZc288_tL0/edit?usp=drivesdk

Matt Mills double and triple feed in full auto. When I pull the trigger no bb comes out like it should, one just roll out of the barrel, one is just spitted out, another one breaks in it end so on. Like the cycle was wrong. But I can't figure out how it is possible just changing the valve

Thanks I'll pass this on

Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:- Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock. Original valve ? Perfect. Ratech npas valve ? Jam G&p adjustable valve ? Jam I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p). I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas. Comment:- Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed. And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always. It's some kind of japanese curse i guess TY all Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit. Any thoughts https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/

That's the one, works like a charm on mine.

Don't agree with unScrewing the buffer tube if you don't have to, that can lead to over-travel on the bolt and that in turn can crack the lower in half if you don't pack out the base of the tube with the hsb buffer from six G gunsmithing or 10p coins. A better solution in my opinion for what it's worth is a lightweight bolt catch from gunsmodify as that will offset the weight of the lever and allow the mag to push up the catch on empty in time to catch the base of the bolt, but with all these things try it before you buy more bits, just ensure when you pull the charging handle fully back the bolt is not striking the lower at the point it joins the buffer tube.

Don't think I want to go any heavier on sub 350fps as my rounds will arrive after a warning letter submitted in writing they would be that slow! It's a field with a strip of woodland along the side that I borrow from a friend approximately 160m X 100m although she will be turning it into a caravan park this year so no more team training here ? But you are more than welcome, I can organise a range day with targets if you like?

Still on the plastic buffer after two years with no problems. With regards to upgrades if I could go back and tell my younger self I'd upgrade the hop nub (six g) the lightweight bolt catch and green gas mod the mags and save the money for externals as I've tried most 'upgrades' and found for me anyway that there a disappointment and had to spend money reverting to original parts and I now hit a crouching man size target at 60m at under 350fps. listen for the ting of the hits - 2x sprayed joined metal plasterer's hawks targets 325x650mm in size shooting 0.30g Geoff's super natural bio bb's on a windless day. VID_20210514_223111.mp4

Nothing, I totally mis read your post. What I was getting at was lengthening the valve spring in the nozzle should cause the valve to close slower (in theory) and increase FPS and conversely shortening it should close faster and decrease FPS.

Sorry mate, your right it won't help with consistency it will just increase the FPS. I should have read your post more carefully.

Just as a suggestion you could try if you have a spare to shorten the spring in front of the npas to reduce the gas required before the valve closes and the excess is used to cycle the action?

TadsJ2 10p is similar diameter as a quarter dollar (I have both in my buffer tube) Once again kudos to fire support for helping me out as the John Wick fde bolt carrier from angry gun does not accept the standard size sealing buffer without binding in the bore (dp enhanced or Marui), additionally the gas key nozzle guide will pull straight off the slightly smaller screws on the top of the carrier. So in order to use this effectively with whatever nozzle you decide to use you will require the sealing buffer and the plastic guide gas key from angry gun to make it work effectively in my opinion. So hats off to fire support for helping me sort these items in time for my next game cheers lads. Aftermarket parts are turning into absolute nightmare for me, I wish to God I could just buy a standard bare Marui bolt from somewhere.

If... you wind the tube out a couple of turns to give the bolt more time to catch you must add 10p's to the bottom of the buffer tube to pack it out or the bolt will over-travel and the screws on the top of the bolt will catch the top of your lower and destroy it making for a v costly mistake. Alternatively, buy a guns modify or similar lightweight bolt catch as it moves up faster after first checking it can move freely as I had a build up of dry chain lube making it move sluggish - the hook part should almost rattle up when you hit the bolt release catch.

No bolts or carriers though?

Firesupport to the rescue - gonna go for a angry gun fde bolt I'm told that they sell dozens of them and don't get any back so I'm inclined to listen to him.

Just stripped the threads of my TM bolt carrier don't suppose anybody's got one they want rid of? Cheers