Uncle Pauly

I lube the entire bolt carrier group (and every other moving part on my MWS) with Wurth dry chain lube, as recommended on the first page of this thread. It's easy to apply, relatively cheap/easy to buy and seems to work great. I imagine any other PTFE (Teflon) spray would work equally as well. Can't comment on the cycling problem with the Angry Gun nozzle/carrier set. I use an Angry Gun High Speed bolt carrier myself and that works a treat. But that's not very useful to know in this situation, sorry! As for mag maintenance, there's nothing specific that I'm aware of, other than the usual good practice of keeping some gas in the mags between skirmishes. General rule seems to be if they're not leaking, leave them alone. I asked a similar question about long-term storage of MWS mags, which you can read here if you're interested.

Great info, thanks Ross! 👍

That's useful to know, cheers. I'm planning to run mine on duster gas for indoor CQB (e.g. Nuprol 1.0 or Abbey 144a) as I reckon that should be sufficient. I do run my MWS on green gas pretty much all year round, but I understand its internals are a little more rugged. Also good tip about hop adjustment 👍

How to repair Tokyo Marui MP7 gas mags: https://atrg.blog/2018/07/26/how-to-repair-tokyo-marui-mp7-gas-mags/

New TM MP7A1 GBB owner here. First impressions... wow! It's a mini-beast 🙂 I've been looking for info on general maintenance/cleaning and tinkering, but couldn't find much on here or elsewhere. So thought I'd start a thread akin to the mighty MWS one for anyone to share their experiences of owning this particular RIF. Based on my brief time with it so far: It doesn't seem to need upgrading; fires great right out of the box. But I'd be interested to know if anyone can suggest any simple/useful improvements. Mags and general gas usage seem very efficient. Not sure if the mags benefit from an equivalent to the MWS green gas mod; or whether the MP7 platform is sufficiently durable for running higher pressure gas in cold weather - ? I've yet to field strip and clean it, but it appears slightly more fiddly than the MWS I'm used to (but that's probably just because it's an unfamiliar platform). Feel free to chip in with any tips. In the meantime, here are useful disassembly/assembly videos I found on 'Tube:

Ditto. That's the one I use too. It's a trusty little fecker and hasn't let me down yet 👍

Absolutely fine for me. They're designed for real steel 5.56mm mags and have very sturdy MOLLE attachment on the reverse. If you're interested, I'd recommend buying just one (or finding one second hand) to test them out before taking the plunge, which is what I did. Mag pouches can be a fairly personal preference and what works for me might be less well-suited to you. Speaking of which, the MOLLE webbing on your chest rig will play a key role in how well your mag pouches attach. You mention that the weight of the mags is pulling your pouches away from your plate carrier... there's no chance of that the way mine are fixed, which could be to do with the pouches but also perhaps the plate carrier itself (also Warrior in my case). Hope that helps 👍 PS: edit to add that the Warrior pouches are fairly 'grabby' - i.e. the mags stay quite firmly in the pouches without needing to use the little bungee retainers they come bundled with. If you're into tactical reloads then you might prefer a moulded plastic pouch like the ITW Fastmag (or similar clone).

I use Warrior Quick Mag pouches. Very good (as you'd expect from "real steel"), but a little expensive. I'm sure cheaper clones are available that function just as well, or near enough.

I'm mostly an idiot... but it sounds to me that your problem of wildly varying FPS more likely stems from the NPAS (and/or its seal with the P-Mags) than the angry gun bolt.

I used to own a WARQ. Likewise, the FOV and protection is great. And they're very solid once on - no messing around with separate googles, mask, etc. The major downside for me was the inability to aim down sights whilst wearing one, at least on M4 platforms. That lower mesh section just gets in the way. Mine suffered from zero fogging until it got blasted at close range, which must've damaged the seal between the two plates of the double-pane visor, because it then started fogging up immediately. That was after only 3 or so games of wearing it. Credit to WARQ in that they responded quickly (great service), but I'd had enough by that point and didn't feel that the product warranted the price tag, so I sent it back for a refund.

The GBLS is very interesting. Not wanting to pre-empt Mr Bing's reply (☕), but my own hesitation about the GBLS system concerns the availability of replacement parts. If my MWS breaks, I can obtain new parts for it relatively easily (and fit them relatively easily too). I'm not sure whether that's the case with the GBLS - I'd imagine not - and that for me is something of a risk for a RIF costing £1600 (because something will break eventually). In terms of 'shootability', I have no idea as I've never used one. But they do look like a helluva lot of fun.

Ah! Got it. In which case you probably want to to break it down into something like: Upper receiver (i.e. the metal housing) Inner barrel Hop unit (incl. rubber and nub) Outer barrel Hand guard rail (upper and lower sections) Guard rail fixings Bolt assembly Nozzle, seal and springs Charging handle Buffer ...and probably some other stuff I've forgotten. Ultimately, you're going to be limited to whatever parts are available. So I still think your best bet is to search on Eagle6, Rainbow8 etc and make a list of what can be bought 'off the shelf'. If you're patient, I'm sure you can cobble everything together eventually, but it might end up costing more than just buying another MWS and selling on the lower (especially if you buy second hand). That's what I'd do and be done with it. But I'm impatient! 7 in total: 6 on my chest rig and one in the gun. I play mostly CQB and find that I rarely get through more than 4 mags by lunchtime; and could probably last all day without reloading if I chose my shots more carefully. But then I play the same way with an AEG. I'm not much into spraying and praying or even suppressing, etc. I leave that to the lads with hi-caps and drum mags 🙂

Quite possible, but not off the top of my head! 🙂 (others here may have a more encyclopaedic knowledge of this). Bolt carrier group, barrel/hop unit and trigger box mechanism are obviously the main component groups, but if you're wanting a list of every single part (down to screws) then I'd suggest your best options are to either: Trawl through sites like Eagle6 and Rainbow8 and make a note of what parts are available; or Just consider buying a 'spare' MWS, keeping the the upper and selling off the lower (I'm sure someone here would have it).

I have this trigger installed: https://www.rainbow8.com/products/uac-match-trigger-for-tm-m4a1-mws-type-a-black Fits fine and works great. That said, I can't vouch whether it's significantly better than the original, as I have other after-market parts fitted that also contribute to overall 'snappiness' (notably a lightweight bolt and bolt catch).

Very nice L11 build! 👏 Out of interest, what gas are you using? Just wondering whether the spring breakage might be due to running it 'hot'; or perhaps just general wear and tear.

Realised I've been chiming in here without any show and tell, so here's my MWS... ("there are many like it, but this one is mine"). Internals: Angry Gun Super Recoil buffer kit (high speed version) DP enhanced nozzle spring set SixG Super Nub (obligatory!) UAC enhanced sealing buffer DP aluminium lightweight bolt carrier (I highly recommend this; noticeably improves gas efficiency and cycle rate) Angry Gun ambi charging handle Angry Gun steel bolt stop plate (combines well with the aluminium bolt carrier) Angry Gun Mil-Spec aluminium buffer tube UAC Match trigger ...all fitted and tested by John at Fire Support (top bloke). Also tried to fit a WIITECH hardened steel disconnector, but it played havoc with the trigger set up, so it got taken out. Just a word of caution if you're considering one yourself. Externals: Mapul foregrip and rail covers 'Blagpul' stock Vortex Spark red dot I run it on Abbey Predator Ultra Gas using .28 indoor and .32 outdoor. Snappy as hell and shoots like a laser. Lurv it ❤️

^ Cheers for clarifying. I notice that the AG sealing buffer is in 'tactical grey'... much more ninja than my lurid green DP one 😉 Glad you got it all sorted. I've had a similar experience with installing 'upgrade' parts that turn out to be quite the opposite. In my case it was a Wiitech 'hardened steel disconnector' that just wouldn't play nicely, so it got swapped out for the original Marui part (which of course worked perfectly...).

I wasn't aware that Angry Gun made a sealing buffer for the MWS... I can't find any mention of it by Googling. Stupid question, but do you mean the Angry Gun buffer kit? I’m running a Dynamic Precision sealing buffer (the green one) and AG high-speed buffer kit in my MWS and so far no problems 🤞

Thanks for the quick reply! 👍 That’s good to know. I’m considering getting some (and my mags are all GG modded).

Stupid question... but I assume you need to remove them when filling the mags with gas? If so, does it prove to be a bit of a faff during busy game days, or are they easy enough to get on/off in a hurry?

Thanks guys! So my deciphering of the manual was correct, that's good to know 👍 Here's the graphic I was referring to, for anyone interested, showing how to increase the hop by turning the dial as @Wo1f mentions "front of the gun to the rear"... I like the way your head works! 😂

Ok... STUPID QUESTION ALERT! (so bear with me). Which way do you turn the hop-up dial to increase/decrease the amount of pressure applied to the nub? From trying to decipher the Japanese manual it looks to me like: 1) Rotate the dial forward towards the barrel-end to reduce pressure on the nub (open up the hop rubber) 2) Rotate the dial backwards toward the stock end to increase pressure on the nub (‘pinch’ the hop rubber) Is that correct? I’ve been using my MWS as stock since I bought it and haven’t yet needed to adjust the hop-up (been firing 0.25s straight and true), but am now switching up to heavier BBs and need to do some fiddling 🙂 PS: for anyone familiar with guitars this feels very much like messing with a truss rod!

This is great. Good work Ross 👍

Thanks Dave. That's ideal, as I plan to stick with the standard TM hop rubber. Unrelated… and a question for anyone here… but what’s the deal with the reinforced nozzles? I see them cropping up in people’s “look at all this stuff I’m going to install!” photos. But they don’t seem to get a mention anywhere in the discussion. Are they a worthwhile upgrade, maybe for running red gas? Or are people just installing them for ‘completeness’? Speaking of which, here’s how I plan to modify the internals of my own MWS. I’m going to be running it on green gas (with modded mags) and want a good balance between performance and durability. If any of these parts seem redundant / not worth installing - or if any useful parts are missing from the list (?) - then please let me know. Thanks guys 👍 Angry Gun Super Recoil Buffer kit (High Speed) DP Aluminium Lightweight Bolt Carrier Angry Gun Steel Bolt Stop Plate DP Enhanced Nozzle Spring Set UAC Enhanced Sealing Buffer UAC Match Trigger WIITECH Hardened Steel Trigger Disconnector SixG Super Nub (with standard TM hop-up rubber)

^ Thanks Dave, that’s a very clear and useful explanation 👍 So the best option, in terms of overall durability/longevity, would be to stick with the standard Tokyo Marui bucking in the MWS. I assume your brass Super Nub also works fine with the TM rubber?