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Version 3 Trigger (Carriage/Unit)


arobson94
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Hi all, was hoping someone could give me some suggestions on what to do about my problem. 
 

I have a version 3 gearbox that is in a g36 I bought second hand and it’s the bane of my life. Constant issues with the trigger working then stopping… I think there’s a bit missing from the section above the trigger as that bit keeps moving and think is the cause! Sounds like you can replace these trigger units, but has anyone got any ideas what exactly too looking at the photos below? 
 

IMG_0298.thumb.jpeg.7fb4938e39d97444739690d32e5c8541.jpegIMG_0299.thumb.jpeg.be593ca0886fa9a8534e3331f04611f9.jpeg
 

 

Thank you in advanced!

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There is a spring under the trigger, I had that mounted wrong once and it gave me headaches. I had like a two step ladder shape on the shell underneath, and I placed it on the wrong one. That trigger takes patience to put back correctly :)

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from the picture the part that is attached to the trigger isn't in it's correct place. it sits in a hole then it pivots to push the switch to fire when you pull the trigger

 

V3 triggers can be a pain to place as they use a spring that has to go round the trigger and then you have to place the trigger and the other part into the holes then get them to stay there as you reassemble the 2 halves of the box. much easier with a QD box

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Is the symptom a dead trigger after a few rounds of semi auto that can be cured by a burst of auto?

 

That's a common v3 issue (well, most boxes have a similar thing but v3's are especially prone) caused by the cycle stopping at just the wrong point.

 

If it's had an aftermarket motor installed, or has any active braking shenanigans via a mosfet that could be the cause as the box is stopping before the trigger has the chance to fully reset. Turning off active brake (if possible) will solve that issue.

 

Its also possible given that looks to be a microswitch box that its something dodgy in the contacts, which might be the case if it's not got any mosfet and has been run a while (doubly so when lipo's enter the picture). This would manifest as the trigger feeling normal but it just not wanting to fire in both semi and auto unlike the above which is semi-specific and can be cured with auto.

 

Mechanically, apart from what @strykerles mentioned about the trigger not being seated the only thing i can see in those pics is the trolley is raised with the black arm looking like it's going to miss the cyan microswitch button. That said, it looks like thats just how its sitting with the box apart and not how it'll sit once the other half of the case is installed.

 

Nothing looks to be missing/broken, at least from what can be seen in those pics.

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A little trick with a V3 trigger and for other things. Use neodymium magnets to aid in holding the trigger in a little bit. Pop them on the opposite side of the case and most triggers will get held in by them. Also really handy for holding the anti reversal latch in. 

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12 hours ago, JVacation said:

A little trick with a V3 trigger and for other things. Use neodymium magnets to aid in holding the trigger in a little bit. Pop them on the opposite side of the case and most triggers will get held in by them. Also really handy for holding the anti reversal latch in. 

 

Surely that aint gonna work for chinesium triggers?

 

Steel triggers like e&l that would work, but those also tend to be the ones that actually play ball.

 

One thing i did on my old jg was drill and tap a screw into the end of the trigger pin, which would hold it in place, and by extension hold the rest in place. Do that at your own peril though as it'll make a thin potmetal pin even thinner and more likely to snap.

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On 23/04/2025 at 11:13, Adolf Hamster said:

 

Surely that aint gonna work for chinesium triggers?

 

Steel triggers like e&l that would work, but those also tend to be the ones that actually play ball.

 

One thing i did on my old jg was drill and tap a screw into the end of the trigger pin, which would hold it in place, and by extension hold the rest in place. Do that at your own peril though as it'll make a thin potmetal pin even thinner and more likely to snap.


I've had it work on Cyma triggers so would assume it would work on quite a few. You are right though mentioning the metal content. 

AK triggers are in general a pain, The Perun Clicker does help a lot though if you are running a perun.

 

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