Aap-01 bolt binding on full auto

[JDesai]

Love it or hate it, I've decided to plunge into the deep end and build of building a rifle out of an AAP-01 after being away from airsoft for about 5 years...

 

It's still work in progress with some tuning required but one consultant issue I am having with it is that on full auto the bolt binds half way, doesn't rack back and if I push it forward into battery, it vents the mag, this tels me it's not cycling back enough for the hammer knocker to reset.

It's not limited to full auto though, if on single and I hold the trigger, I can feel the difference in how much it's binding when I rack it back slowly and it won't go fully back to battery without assistance, if I rack it normally and let the recoil spring take over then it sometimes seats fully but not always, with the limited internal upgrades at this time I know it's restricted to either the bolt, short stroke kit or the trigger (I'm leaning to the trigger)...

Anyone come across this issue before? I would like to rectify it before doing any other internal upgrades to prevent any unnecessary wear or strain on components.

 

Installed internally at the moment is as follows (there will be more in due time before she is ready for a game)

Carbine kit W/TDC hop

Cow cow light weight bolt

Cow Cow short stroke kit (1 buffer added)

Charging handle w/ fire select

waiting to be installed:

270mm maple lead crazy jet barrel

Crazy jet 60° autobot rubber

 

Annoyingly yes... the rail doesn't sit flush with the upper, this is due to the barrel nut not going in far enough, just trying to figure out a solution to this without too much metal work lol

[Cr0-Magnon]

AAP nozzles are fussy with hop rubbers, try it with the stock one. If that doesn't make a difference, revert back to the original bolt. It's a tricky balance, if not setup perfectly, lightweight bolts don't have enough oomph to fully return to battery. I've found installing a stronger recoil spring can help with this.

[The_Lord_Poncho]

I had two issues with my AAP carbine build - based on the TTI kit. 1) the bolt being seemingly 'sticky' and not always returning to battery despite upgraded springs, and 2) a gap between the receiver and hand guard! I resolved issue 1 by removing the short stroke buffers that i had put in there, and removing the cocking handle extension too (my theory being to reduce the weight of the (stock) bolt. I suspect that it was the short stroke buffers that were the main problem though. I never resolved issue 2, but to be fair the gap isn't quite as big as yours - but it still bothers me!

[Skara]

19 hours ago, JDesai said:

the rail doesn't sit flush with the upper

That's because it's an Ares Amoeba handguard and they're shit.

Replace it with a less shit one and it'll be fine.

 

19 hours ago, JDesai said:

Cow cow light weight bolt

Try reverting to the stock one, I'm pretty sure this is the cause of your binding issues.

 

My carbine AAP runs on the stock bolt with TTI selector charging handle and Hadron bouncer kit, 0 issues so far.

[JDesai]

14 hours ago, Cr0-Magnon said:

AAP nozzles are fussy with hop rubbers, try it with the stock one. If that doesn't make a difference, revert back to the original bolt. It's a tricky balance, if not setup perfectly, lightweight bolts don't have enough oomph to fully return to battery. I've found installing a stronger recoil spring can help with this.

It still has the stock rubber, hop unit and chamber, it also has an upgraded recoil spring, I've toyed with the idea that a weaker spring could allow it to cycle fully, it seems to be sticking just before it reaches the point where it resets the hammer and knocker valve... I'll be having another look at it on Friday so I'll try the original bolt, thanks for the advice.

5 hours ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:

I had two issues with my AAP carbine build - based on the TTI kit. 1) the bolt being seemingly 'sticky' and not always returning to battery despite upgraded springs, and 2) a gap between the receiver and hand guard! I resolved issue 1 by removing the short stroke buffers that i had put in there, and removing the cocking handle extension too (my theory being to reduce the weight of the (stock) bolt. I suspect that it was the short stroke buffers that were the main problem though. I never resolved issue 2, but to be fair the gap isn't quite as big as yours - but it still bothers me!

Ah.. sucks that the short stroke kit wasn't compatible for it... it really does affect the cycle rate, I mostly use single fire so it's a nice thing to have that trigger reset rapid for the next shot.

For the reciever I was hoping to take some metal off the barrel nut where it meets the barrel to hold it in place, doing it without a mill would by tricky to prevent un-even cuts.