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RabidNinja64

WE MK16 Mod 0 AEG - shooting auto on semi?

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About to get round to fixing this problem myself. Sneaking suspicion that it could be the cutoff lever being worn out; but would like some secondary input if anyone has experienced a similar problem. The gun is wired in a deans/lipo build if that makes any difference (allegedly it does because WE AEG internals are pig metal, so would an SHS gearset be preferable....?)

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does sound like a COL issue, had a similar problem myself with a gun i've been building out of spare parts, but in my case it was the wrong cutoff lever that didn't have enough engagement to kick the contact off the trigger.

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could be cut off lever, but could also be the selector plate worn or damaged or even the little spring that connects the plate to the cut off lever gone AWOL. you wont know for sure until you open it up

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23 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

does sound like a COL issue, had a similar problem myself with a gun i've been building out of spare parts, but in my case it was the wrong cutoff lever that didn't have enough engagement to kick the contact off the trigger.


Considering it's a V2 gearbox in my situation, would it matter in terms of which brand COL i buy? searching around for a diagram/manual of sorts for internal lists and not getting anything; id rather know what part to get before i take it apart and forget what to do for 2-3 weeks to wait for delivery.

23 hours ago, Nick G said:

could be cut off lever, but could also be the selector plate worn or damaged or even the little spring that connects the plate to the cut off lever gone AWOL. you wont know for sure until you open it up


Had a quick peek at the selector plate, looks totally fine, still greased up quite well and sits and operates fine.
the two external springs on the gearbox are still alive and springy, so narrows it down to COL to me. only issue is which one fits.

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14 minutes ago, RabidNinja64 said:

Considering it's a V2 gearbox in my situation, would it matter in terms of which brand COL i buy? searching around for a diagram/manual of sorts for internal lists and not getting anything; id rather know what part to get before i take it apart and forget what to do for 2-3 weeks to wait for delivery.

 

that could be a problem, they *should* be compatible between v2's but the truth is they really arent.

 

i literally went through my parts box and found 4 COL's and only 1 actually tripped the trigger in the particular box i was using, which sadly for me also had been modded for a mosfet so would only run semi only.

 

the best answer i could give is if you can get to a brick&mortar shop (which aint gonna be for a while at the moment) and see if they'll have one lying around that fits.

 

either that, or get one the same brand as the box you're using and hope for the best.

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2 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

that could be a problem, they *should* be compatible between v2's but the truth is they really arent.

 

Bollocks.

2 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

the best answer i could give is if you can get to a brick&mortar shop (which aint gonna be for a while at the moment) and see if they'll have one lying around that fits.

Again, bollocks.

 

Guess i'll just have to bite the bullet and get to different COL's and see what sticks

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1 hour ago, RabidNinja64 said:

Guess i'll just have to bite the bullet and get to different COL's and see what sticks

 

is it bad i initially mis-read that as someone saying the comment was bollocks? i think this COVID isolation is getting to me....... :P

 

if you know what the gearbox brand is (just in case it's been swapped out for a non WE) then that would be a good place to start.

 

either that or folk with a bit more breadth of experience with different models might be able to suggest COL's that have a decent likelihood of fitting.

 

count your blessings, try getting a g&g f2000 COL when that's worn out ;)

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Cheers folks! doubled down on the COL, bought a replacement and presto! works a treat!

 

Now for the NEW problems 🤨🙄

 

Just had to remove gearbox from lower receiver a second time to realign the ambi selectors (because they work on an external GEAR SYSTEM HELD BY THE CHASSIS AND IF IT'S NOT ALIGNED CORRECTLY TO THE SELECTOR PLATE, SAFE DOESNT WORK, ARE YOU JOKING!?)

 

for the centrepiece of my worries; The trigger has gotten really, and i mean REALLY hard to pull; at first i thought the motor had crapped out or locked up because it was just refused to turn. when it does shoot, it does the following;

 

  • Sounds really screechy, so obviously something to do with motor height, but adjusting the height adjustor does zero adjusting; grip must be tight or wires are holding it up. don't remember seeing any motor spacers, but will keep an eye on it.
  • the initial firing test messing around with the motor caused a "trip" sound in the gearbox, or moreso of a click; first thing that came to mind was triggering something on the anti-reversal latch side of things, which is when the entire issue with the motor first started.
  • shoots normal-ish now, but still with a heavy trigger without a bite point.

Side note; is it normal for the selector switch to just glide between semi/auto without clicking into it like a standard M4 would?

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Ahh ambi selectors.....

 

The trigger issue could either be box alignment (rubbing somewhere) or if it happens in semi but not auto could be the safety is still partially on where you have to push it out of the way.

 

The selector should be free and smooth but it should click, on a standard selector this is a spring detent in the lever which unless you specifically remove the lever should stay in place, i suspect the ambi fire selector alignment is also to blame here.

 

As for the motor sounds very much like wire routing pushing the motor down, its an absolute pain in the proverbial but just requires much fiddling to get the wires out of the way and not jamming on the top/sides.

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2 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

The trigger issue could either be box alignment (rubbing somewhere) or if it happens in semi but not auto could be the safety is still partially on where you have to push it out of the way.

You may be onto something there. Looking at the ambi selector, it's only slightly off on the one side, but you wouldn't think it'd cause that much of an issue. As for box alignment? considering how well everything fits (bar the motor currently), i WANT to be keen on the idea of it not being that, but it's definitely something to consider, just dont tell me i have to take out again....😭
 

I should mention that this was also when i was firing with the motor free from the handle; more oft than not it would just "seize" and not move while making that sound you'd associate with an electrical short or just the motor severely struggling. it was also overspin for some benign reason. I feel like i should KNOW what the funk is happening.........I'll probably wind up taking a video tomorrow or something for some better understanding.

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Does the motor turn free by hand?

 

And dont get me started on the finnickness of fire selectors else i'll start ranting about ak's......

 

Another option for the selector/trigger is the box being too tight, if you've overdone the stock/grip bolts a bit it can do that.

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14 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

Does the motor turn free by hand?

 

And dont get me started on the finnickness of fire selectors else i'll start ranting about ak's......

 

Another option for the selector/trigger is the box being too tight, if you've overdone the stock/grip bolts a bit it can do that.

Right so, in the project of making a video or two to demonstrate my issue, and in the process.......lost a fucking selector plate spring. so for now, project is on hold.

Further messing around is starting to indicate that the trigger contacts/trigger itself may be to blame. Could there be a way for me to incorrectly install the COL to cause a trigger contact issue? Initially i thought it was a wiring issue, like a break, but right now im half tempted to scrap the whole thing or get screwed over by a airsoft company tech on prices just to get the fucker working.

 

Also, yes, motor does turn by free hand with abit of a push but other than that it works fine.

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potentially if the contacts have been bent out might cause issues, but that's hard to do unless you've been deliberately poking at them.

 

all i can say is welcome to the world of teching, unfortunately there's only so much can really be advised over the internet before it just boils down to feel and experience.

 

if it were me i'd pull the box down again (at least there's plenty of free time these days) and make sure to test each individual stage.

 

you can test the COL to see if it can trip the trigger by hand just rotating the sector gear with the trigger pulled (an annoying operation but you only need the drigger, col and sector gear actually in the box)

 

then test the trigger with the motor sitting free (well, free of the box, obviously hold onto it to make sure it doesn't go flying), make sure that works ok, can also inspect the wiring (a common one is for it to get chewed up by installing/removing the motor as it doesn't have a lot of room there)

 

it's just a step-by step process with the hope being if every individual element is working as it should then the end result should too.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Adolf Hamster said:

potentially if the contacts have been bent out might cause issues, but that's hard to do unless you've been deliberately poking at them.

 

all i can say is welcome to the world of teching, unfortunately there's only so much can really be advised over the internet before it just boils down to feel and experience.

 

if it were me i'd pull the box down again (at least there's plenty of free time these days) and make sure to test each individual stage.

 

you can test the COL to see if it can trip the trigger by hand just rotating the sector gear with the trigger pulled (an annoying operation but you only need the drigger, col and sector gear actually in the box)

 

then test the trigger with the motor sitting free (well, free of the box, obviously hold onto it to make sure it doesn't go flying), make sure that works ok, can also inspect the wiring (a common one is for it to get chewed up by installing/removing the motor as it doesn't have a lot of room there)

 

it's just a step-by step process with the hope being if every individual element is working as it should then the end result should too.

 

 

I genuinely appreciate the time and effort you've been putting into your responses; you've been a brilliant help so far and while chucking more possibilites my way, your totally right, i have enough time to learn and it's an absolute pain!

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1 minute ago, RabidNinja64 said:

I genuinely appreciate the time and effort you've been putting into your responses; you've been a brilliant help so far and while chucking more possibilites my way, your totally right, i have enough time to learn and it's an absolute pain!

 

it does get better, and once you've got the experience (and box of random spare bits to sift through) it'll end up being pretty useful.

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