KWA Kriss Vector issue

[Schultz]

Hi all,

 

I have a issue with mine KWA Kriss Vector. After a few single shots the trigger is not resetting properly. I have to pull the trigger again (sometimes twice) will here a click and it will fire then the same issue occurs. 2 round burst and auto work properly. I cleaned the Vector and relubed it. Inside everything looks good, no broken bits. I use Nuprol 3.0.  Somebody has any idea, like to play with it again!!

[Cipher-032]

Guessing possible worn semi auto sear?

[Guest]

It could be a number of things, but worn semi auto sear is most likely.

 

If you search you tube for Rhesus Airsoft you’ll see Thomas has a fix that often works.

Getting hold of a semi-auto sear could be tricky, but the real steel KRISS sear is identical to the KWA version

 

rdb

[Schultz]

Thanks for the info. I did already saw the video. But first wanted to ask around if there were other solutions for the problem or maybe it was something totally different. When i relubed it the Sera looked fine by me. Will open it again this week and check it again.

 

8 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

It could be a number of things, but worn semi auto sear is most likely.

 

If you search you tube for Rhesus Airsoft you’ll see Thomas has a fix that often works.

Getting hold of a semi-auto sear could be tricky, but the real steel KRISS sear is identical to the KWA version

 

rdb

 

What kind of other things could it be rocketdogbert?

[Guest]

6 hours ago, Schultz said:

What kind of other things could it be rocketdogbert?

 

Worn primary sear (trigger bar), worn primary hammer, over stretched primary hammer spring, worn trigger, damaged semi-sear spring or cup, bent secondary hammer bar(s).

 

I think that’s about it. Where are you based?

 

rdb

[Schultz]

Oke, will check those too. 

 

3 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

I think that’s about it. Where are you based?

 

Maarssen, The Netherlands

[Schultz]

So i took it apart and got some photo’s. 

It looks like the sears are fine. Impact hammer has a scratch.

 

[Guest]

Good pics

 

The important part of the sears is the tip that interacts with the primary hammer, the bit your holding that we can’t see, same with the hammer, need to see the sear runners.

 

ANY shape change in the tip of the sears or the hammer runners could be the problem, particularly if there is any sort of lip.

 

The whole gun has very tight tolerances, any wear will stop it running well.

 

I’ll glad check it out for you, but you’d have to ship it to the UK lol

[Schultz]

Oh, my mistake. Thought the problem was the nob on the sear. Took some more photo’s. 

 

 

 

[Guest]

Wrong end of the hammer, it’s the bearing end that the sears sit on.

 

Your pics are a bit dark, but it does look like the sear tip is worn.

 

Any issues will full auto or burst at all?

 

Personally, I’d try the Rhesus fix (take a tiny amount off, even though the sears are steel, they aren’t hardened, just a few strokes)

 

BUT before you do, assemble the sears, and run through a cycle as Rhesus shows. Keep running through until you are happy you understand how it works, as it is relatively complex with trigger pulled and not pulled.

 

It sounds like the semi sear is not engaging the hammer once the primary sear is released by the trigger, but check it very careful. 

 

airsoft-club.com have replacement semi-auto sears

[Schultz]

Tomorrow i will make some better photo’s with daylight.

 

7 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

Any issues will full auto or burst at all?

 

No issues with full auto or burst. 

 

7 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

Personally, I’d try the Rhesus fix (take a tiny amount off, even though the sears are steel, they aren’t hardened,   just a few strokes)

 

If i understand correct Rhesus means you have to sand a bit under the knob and not the sear edge. Or am i wrong?

[Guest]

9 minutes ago, Schultz said:

Tomorrow i will make some better photo’s with daylight.

 

 

No issues with full auto or burst. 

 

 

If i understand correct Rhesus means you have to sand a bit under the knob and not the sear edge. Or am i wrong?

 

You are correct. If you’ve studied the operation of the sears, you’ll see why

[Dan1712]

On 13/03/2019 at 20:50, Schultz said:

Hi all,

 

I have a issue with mine KWA Kriss Vector. After a few single shots the trigger is not resetting properly. I have to pull the trigger again (sometimes twice) will here a click and it will fire then the same issue occurs. 2 round burst and auto work properly. I cleaned the Vector and relubed it. Inside everything looks good, no broken bits. I use Nuprol 3.0.  Somebody has any idea, like to play with it again!!

 

It could potentially be a worn trigger bar as well (less likely than a worn sear). JUst be very careful to not remove too much off the post or you'll ruin the sear and have to scour the net for a replacement. 

Impuls101 carries quite a few spares should you need them but unfortunately not semi sears 

 

While its apart id pick up a 3d printed trigger for it, it makes a massive change to the way the gun feels to shoot and cant recommend it enough.he does sell it on shapeways but its very expensive on there, send him a message on his facebook page and you should be able to get it for the cheaper price he mentions . 

 

Hopefully you fix your trigger problem quicker than me and @rocketdogbert spent fixing mine. ( over a period of probably nearly a year. ) Let us know how you get on 

[Schultz]

I changed the photo’s in mine last photo post. with better light. 

 

I just searched in mine big box of  spareparts and i have both sears spare (number 12 and 13). I thought i only had the hammer spare. So replace the old ones and good to go right?

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Schultz said:

I changed the photo’s in mine last photo post. with better light. 

 

I just searched in mine big box of  spareparts and i have both sears spare (number 12 and 13). I thought i only had the hammer spare. So replace the old ones and good to go right?

 

Parts 35 & 36, below

 

[Schultz]

2 minutes ago, rocketdogbert said:

 

Parts 35 & 36, below

 

 

Yes, they are stamped as 12 and 13. Hope it is visible on the photo. 

[Guest]

Good stuff, you can replace both, but you only need to replace the semi-auto sear.(36)

 

However, you MUST cycle the trigger pack as above to be sure the primary sear part 27 isn’t worn, and no other components are out of spec.

 

I would highly recomend fitting Rhesus 3D trigger kit as well

[Schultz]

I replaced the semi sear with a new one and again 5 single shots fire fine. But with shot number 6 i had to pull the trigger 2 or 3 times to get a shot the same for shot 7 etc. Burst and full-auto work fine. If i switch to burst and fire and then switch back to single i get one good shot and the rest will fail again. 

[Guest]

Did you cycle the sears like I suggested to see if the primary sear (trigger bar) is worn?

 

Easiest way to do it is reinstall the trigger pack correctly (no bent sear retention springs) and remove the ejection port so you can see what’s going on.

I can show you what happens with semi only, but I have no burst or auto sears in my gun

[Schultz]

If i pull the trigger, when in semi, the hammer will not fire. The primary sear lifts but the hammer is stuck on the semi sear.  If i push the auto sear (on the right) when it is on semi and pull the trigger the hammer will fire. Is that normal? I will try to make a video. 

[Schultz]

Hope the video is good enough?

 

[Guest]

Haven’t watched the video as I’m at work, but it won’t fire unless you press the bottom of the auto sear, as that releases the hammer when the recoil buffer rises.

 

IF you hold the auto sear release up, and manually cock the hammer, then pull the trigger, the hammer releases. (Allow it to do it gently, not snap, or you may damage the spring).

Keep the trigger pulled, and re-rack the hammer.

You should first see the semi auto sear drop into the hammer groove, then as you release the trigger the primary sear (trigger bar) first engages the hammer groove, then lifts the semi sear clear of the  hammer groove.

 

[Schultz]

5 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

IF you hold the auto sear release up, and manually cock the hammer, then pull the trigger, the hammer releases. (Allow it to do it gently, not snap, or you may damage the spring).

Keep the trigger pulled, and re-rack the hammer.

You should first see the semi auto sear drop into the hammer groove, then as you release the trigger the primary sear (trigger bar) first engages the hammer groove, then lifts the semi sear clear of the  hammer groove.

 

Yes that is what i see. Changed the previous video. 

[Guest]

It looks like it is functioning correctly, though possibly a little stiff.

 

Describe your original problem again, hammer not resetting?

 

Is the recoil buffer returning fully to the up position? No damage to the spring or buffer?

 

If the gun is firing burst or auto on semi setting, it’s definitely the sears though.

 

All three sear return springs in correctly?

[Schultz]

Problem is that after firing a few shots on semi it will not fire again until i pull the trigger again (sometimes after pulling the trigger more then twice). 

 

Burst fires burst, no problem here. 

Auto fires auto, no problem here. 

 

The recoil buffer is returning fully, must say if i assemble everything the blowback housing needs some extra help to get in correctly (making the turn from the bottom section to the upper section).