JG G36c battery

[emilianoksa]

Just watched a bloke in American get a nunchuck 9.6v battery into one.

 

I'd heard before that it could be done.

 

But I wondered if it was a good idea. Can the JG internals take a 9.6 nimh for very long?

[Wo1f]

If it will actually fit then you should be good. My brother’s has ran a 2200 7.4 lipo for over a year now

[Sitting Duck]

I use the term "  JUICE " in general to cover the volts - amps - watts bollox......

If we remember back to school....

 

Volts x Amps = Watts

 

or we can go backwards to find amps/volts from Watts....

Watts divided by Amps/Volts will equal the other

 

This Watt dooberry is I guess the mofo that matters in the end - well for burning out contacts

 

Stock guns will draw say 10~12 amps firing on say a 5 sec burst depending on numerous factors

spring used, motor used, shimming (usually not great), plus other factors like resistance in wiring etc....

 

OK skip the 3:45am Open University bollox on BBC2 with some 1970's twat wearing a hideous shirt

(younger members ask wtf is he on about - don't worry kids, you have been spared....)

Anyway.........

 

7.4 volts x 11 amps = 81.4 watts

&

11.1 volts x 11 amps = 122.1 watts - or 50% increase in totals watts

 

The point I'm making, is that though the amps stay the same, when the voltage increases so do the Watts

Or if you beef up your gun and tweak it to run faster with more demanding motor/gearing/spring etc....

The Amps increase and even sticking on 7.4v, the amps increase and so do the Watts

 

7.4 volts x 16 amps = 118.4 watts

or

7.4 volts x 22 amps = 162.8 watts

 

You getting the idea now, a tweaked 7.4v gun can easily exceed the Watts of a stock gun running on 11.1v

You go above say 16 amps on 7.4v and the watts are the same if not more/much more than running 11.1v stock

 

So the above should shed some light on the subject about trigger contacts burning out

or some people claiming they have run 11.1v for ages and contacts are fine or burnt out asap etc.....

It is down to the Volts/Amps and how they correlate to the final Watts in the end

 

Power & Speed or ROF.....

 

Most stock guns fire about 12rps out of the box

To run much faster certain minor tweaks should be performed like Angle of Engagement AoE

You will " probably " be OK-ish to push a stock gun to say 16~18rps

I mean you can push it faster, but in general the faster stuff runs the more likely it will wear/fail quicker

(generally speaking - more so if it hasn't been tweaked & checked to run smoothly/optimised)

 

So taking stock gun example and doing a ROUGH CALCULATION on both Watts & ROF from 7.4v....

 

Stock gun example on Watts:

7.4 volts x 11 amps = 81.4 watts

or

9.6 volts x 11 amps = 105.6 watts

 

Stock gun's ROF:

7.4 volts produces 12 rps

doing (12/7.4)x9.6 dooberry crap (actually 11.1v is more like 55% more than 7.4v in real results tbh)

9.6 volts produces 15.56756756756757 - f*ck say just under 16 rps ffs

 

So by using modules within the Duck theory of Airsoft mathematics applied to study of peew peew peew

We can conclude that using a 9.6v on a stock gun is no big drama because.....

 

The Watts have only just crept over the 100 watt mark - which I would say is a fair area of caution perhaps

The ROF is say 16 rps and still within the 18 rps boundary of caution on stock gun

 

Of course, this is assuming basic voltages - batteries fresh off charge are about 1v or more freshly charged

Also some guns are shimmed really $hit, with hot springs and can be producing bit more than 11/12 amps

 

BUT - GENERALLY speaking something around those ball park figures on stock guns is normal

 

Long story short.....

 

9.6v in a stock gun won't kill it

IF you replace the stock motor with a faster Higher Speed motor and apply 9.6v....

You will push amps to say 20+ amps (192+ watts) and ROF will double also at 24+rps

(depends on motor used but using a very quick High Speed motor)

At 24rps you run a big risk of PME - premature engagement smashing $hit up

and if that doesn't quite happen - it is likely the stock plastic teeth will wear quickly

(if the big rear tooth - called the pickup tooth, doesn't snap off coz you didn't correct AoE)

 

It is when people really push stuff and likely increase the JUICE and drop a much faster motor into stock gun

THEN stuff f*cks up very quickly

 

Trust me & others on here - we speak from experience of trying to push & take the pi$$ on stock stuff

 

But 9.6v on stock guns - nah it will be OK for a good while

just don't push it much further with upgraded motor or stuff like that

JG & Cyma stuff is pretty f*cking hard wearing or very durable - as long as you know there are some suggested limits

But 9.6v - yeah you will be OK I feel as long as you keep it as just that and no silly motor upgrades etc....

 

The above is a short brief extract of Duck theory of Airsoft mathematics applied to study of peew peew peew

That in itself is a 4 year study of just generally being a sad f*cker and well overthinking $hit way way way too much

Don't bother worrying about it all, just worry about where did that little $hit go who shot me 5 times already today

 

PS - A GOOD 7.4v say 2200mah 25c LiPo will produce very close/simiar ROF to a 9.6v Nimah anyway

1000mah 15-20c batteries are lamer than larger GOOD mofo LiPo's

 

[emilianoksa]

Thanks a lot for that very comprehensive explanation, Duck.😁

 

Very helpful.

 

 

[Sitting Duck]

1 hour ago, emilianoksa said:

Thanks a lot for that very comprehensive explanation, Duck.😁

 

Very helpful.

 

 

 

I do try to keep my posts short, concise & to the point

but somehow my fingers seem to want to type in much greater detail than intended

 

tbh - I kinda forgot about this watt factor over the amp which I test on a RC power analyzer thingy

but now this Watt bollox kinda makes more sense in relation to 11.1v burning contacts & $hit

(Still call the whole thing in general " Juice " ffs)

 

Oooooppppssss - fingers - STOP IT