Ares Amoeba AM-009 - Upgrade Advice?

[J4ck]

So I have a Ares Amoeba AM-009 and I'm looking to do some upgrades...

 

The gun comes stock with a tight bore barrel, electronic trigger and  mosfet.

I have upgraded the bucking to a prommy purple and the spring to a m110. I run the gun on a 11.1 Lipo 15-25 C discharge.

I'm looking for between 20-30 rps.

I was looking at upgrading the air parts and also put a new gear set, 16:1 and a new motor in it.

 

The air parts I'm considering are;

SHS (RA) Stainless Steel Cylinder (4/5 Hole)

SHS (RA) M4 Aluminum Nozzle (21.5mm)

SHS (RA) 14 Tooth Piston (Lightweight) SHS (RA) M4 Cylinder Head Aluminium (Pad) SHS (RA) Piston Head (6 Vents Aluminium)

 

Like I said, I want to upgrade the motor and gear set,

SHS (RA) 16:1 Gears

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHS-Upgraded-Torque-Airsoft-Gearbox/dp/B00DPIVUG2

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Airsoft-AEG-Motor-High-Torque-Lonex-A2-Orange-ASG-Long-M-Series-V2/1542107728

 

Which Motor should I go with? 

And It is worth upgrading the air parts?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sitting Duck]

just me personally I'd go with this piston

http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/shs-ra-145-tooth-piston-cnc-swiss-cheese

mainly coz it is light but has a bit more rails on it at sides for stability

 

If you change gears then yes a 16:1 but you won't see that much difference tbh

std 18:1 = 18.65:1 actual ratio

the 16:1 = 17.25:1 actual ratio

you would see about 8% increase in ratio, more likely in real terms only 5% from slight gear change

(you NEVER get a 50% increase in rof going from 18:1 to 12:1, reckon 33% in real terms due to extra work from gear change)

 

So yes you could drop in a 16:1 set, but you would have to still use the Ares sector as it has magnets inside

(should be able to use the old sector as 16:1 & 18:1 use same sectors - the ratio change is on spur gear)

But for an aprox 5% boost - really ????

 

Motor - I'd just go for this:

http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/ra-high-torque-motor-long

it is a SHS high torque which is a balanced motor at about 16tpa

in reality it is a fairly quick motor at good price without going too nutz which draws more amps

won't break the bank either

 

ATM if you are running on 11.1v 15-25c you must be getting close to 20rps already I would have thought

If you change the motor to the oem RA/SHS you should gain about 25% or maybe 30%

 

This running at say 25-26rps is where I would leave it as you are getting close to PME @30rps on UK spec gun

(can be done but usually going up to 30rps will require other crap like short-stroking and high spring etc....)

 

I'd keep the gearing std & RA motor, don't use the bearing in piston head to save some weight

(especially if using alloy piston head)

Watch the juice - don't go for a 30c 11.1v lipo upgrade

keep it mild like you have and you should be sitting around 25rps

which is about the max you can/should go to

 

Seriously - most settle for low to mid twenties or twenties is plenty

I've wrecked a few builds taking the pi$$

it is tricky as we have lower limits - USA 400+ fps you can use m120+ springs to avoid PME etc....

but uk lower spring means gun is a bit quicker but piston returns a smidge later - slight risk of PME

So don't take everything on YouTube or in Legacy's high speed guide as 101% gospel for UK builds

 

Keep the inside to a mild service, correct AoE, check SHS piston doesn't bind

improve the seals, heck you might not actually need a new piston head or cylinder head

(just some ptfe tape & new/better o-ring, buy them but check what $hit works best I mean)

Piston - yes a metal rack is more durable but don't take the pi$$

(metal rack won't fail easily if PME so you could wreck the drivechain/gears)

But go easy and you should be fine, but approaching the limit that I recommend pushing

 

It is not the parts so much but how the bits all fit together

 

To be brutally honest, I probably advise if your gun is shooting 20rps then just use it as is

think about doing upgrade crap as/when she goes a bit pear shape and really needs a tweak

Last thing you want is boned gun in bits over chrimbo

It isn't so much how fast the gun shoots but the skill of the player that results in victory

really quick guns if not built to absolute perfection just bust more quickly in the end

 

Yeah sure buy the bits if you like but I'd wait until the gun needs looking at perhaps

THEN you got little to lose ripping her open and replacing the worn parts with better bits

 

Merry Christmas

[Hangtight]

What was the reason for changing to the M110 spring? It's just that for the length barrel in the 009, with a good air seal that spring would put you over most field limits.

A 16TPA motor (SHS/RA High Torque, ZCI balanced) with the stock gears and 11.1v should put you around mid 20's. At that rate of fire on a UK legal spring you will be safe from PME, so get the increased efficiency of a heavier full piston. The Cyma full rack ones that ak2m4.co.uk sell are good and inexpensive. Add a SHS POM piston head to this and use the Cyma O ring for a good deal with low friction.

For the rest of it, the cylinder with a bit more air volume is good for using heavier BBs. Only change the other air seal parts if they really need it. Adjust angle of engagement and get the shimming right. Decent lubrication.

 

 

[J4ck]

Some really great help as always, thanks guys. 

 

But yea SittingDuck I think Ill go with what you said as the gun was brand new it has a seal on the gear box so Ill wait until the internals need touching up but for now Ill just get a new motor.

 

Cheers, Jack

 

[Hangtight]

There's a couple of things you need to do before you try and stress a gearbox with higher speed motors. Angle of engagement and shimming, plus decent lubrication.

You said you'd changed the spring? So no harm going into the gearbox again.

Depending on the motor the bevel gear may need reshimming to get the pinion height/bevel mesh correct.

[Sitting Duck]

Think the box is a quick change spring type

So don't think he needed to break the seal when changing spring

 

As explained, I'd run with it as is - Inc stock motor if hitting say 20rps

As Hangtight is saying if you really start to push it then AoE should be done

I have snapped a couple of stock piston's pickup tooth clean off quickly

Yes you should do it - deffo if you fit the RA SHS motor hitting 25+

 

I reckon you can scrape by at 20rps and if/when it needs attention then go nutz

Really would perhaps get ya bits ready (them motors do sell out at times)

Then run the thing stock on 11.1v but when she goes a bit mehhhh

Then fit ya bits with faster motor and correct AoE

 

I mean you can slap the SHS in there

But I personally think you need to check AOE first

Before you push it more.

[Hangtight]

I might get round to using quick change gearboxes one day, but why waste the practise it took to get the technique of cramming gearboxes with heavy springs together?
I keep forgetting the things come as standard on a number of guns these days.

[J4ck]

Yea cool, Ill leave it for now.

 

Thanks again guys 

[Georgeturner2001]

Amoeba gears have a Little’s magnet so the EFCU can detect when the Gun has done a full cycle, keep that in mind if you ever want to change the gears.

[J4ck]

Yea I was confused about that when someone mentioned it earlier... Thanks <3

[Jedi_Master]

• Use descriptive titles for new topics
Posting a topic with the title "Look here!", or "Please help", will not attract the attention of the users. If you use titles like "JG G36C gearbox problem", or "New gun from ICS!", more people will view your post and will know what they are about look at

 

Title amended.