Mauser SR Pro Tactical Tuning

[rolfinator]

Hi guys!

I bought this sniper rifle some time ago and thought about strongly tuning it. I hope I am in the right section of the forum? If not, please move it, moderator

Here are my ideas:
- PDI HOP UP UNIT from x-fire.
http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/chamber_ver2/e.vsr_chamber_ver2.html

- 499mm Barrel.Unfortunately, there is no 6.01, so I will go with the 6.03!
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-black-python-version-ii-6-03mm-tight-bore-barrel-499mm-aps.html

- Cylinder Set:
http://www.x-fire.org/tm_l96/e.precision_hd.html

- Trigger Unit ( finally a metal one^^ ):
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Metal_Trigger_Box_Assembly_for_Type_96_Sniper_Rifl es/3391

- New Spring
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-rifle/springs/guarder-m160-oil-temper-wire-spring-for-aps-series.html

- Barrel Spacer
http://www.x-fire.org/type96/e.t96_bs_aeg.html

So, do you see anything I missed? Or components that are bad (quality) or misfitting? I appreciate _any_ input!

Thanks!

[proffrink]

The Mauser SR Pro is a Maruzen APS-2 Type96 clone - it is not compatible with VSR parts. You need to look for 'Type96' upgrades. Not TM L96 AWS and not VSR.

 

Do not buy from eHobby Asia unless you have to - the postage is a joke. PDI have free shipping on right now and make basically the best barrels that you can buy, good springs and great cylinders. Just avoid their hop unit for now because it doesn't get brilliant reviews.

 

I'm going to go ahead and assume your budget is quite high given the links you're posting here (PDI cylinder sets being pretty damn expensive).

 

Here are some links:

 

Hop unit:

http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=93_229&products_id=4366

Please message these guys to ensure compatibility. I'm almost certain that it should fit, but it doesn't hurt to be sure. It's not in stock but Airsoft Pro build their own stuff and restock basically every month. Maybe ask them via email.

 

Trigger mechanism:

http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=93_229&products_id=2220

This has a 90^o sear engagement. They're seen as being the better choice for higher spring powers and - I think - have a slightly cleaner break. They will only be compatible with 90^o pistons so you will need to buy the kit below (which includes such a piston).

Again: Please message Airsoft Pro to ensure compatibility. I'm almost certain that it should fit, but - again - be sure.

 

Cylinder, spring guide, spring and piston:

http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=93_229&products_id=1268

Airsoft Pro make pretty good cylinders and pistons these days, and are a little cheaper than PDI. Comes with a spring, but as I say below, they are pretty hot so get one grade below what you think you'll need. I'd still buy spares anyway because - again - free shipping on the PDI stuff and you can make up the cost + VAT just by selling them as new once you've found the right one.

 

Barrel (inner):

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/05.html

You want one for the 'TYPE 89' (yes 89, not 96, not 89 'short') as all these AEG cut-barrels will work with the new hop unit you're buying and apparently this is the current inner barrel length that you need*. These are 6.05 barrels and have an extremely high grade of finish. Don't let people talk you into tighter bores being better as it's rarely the case when put alongside a quality 6.03 or 6.05 where the BB is less likely to get interfered with during its travel down the barrel (and get an inconsistent hop).

*For the love of all that is holy, please check your inner barrel length before ordering. It's worth doing this right as PDI barrels are expensive. Again, you can order any AEG barrel on the PDI website - the name of the gun it 'fits' in simply corresponds to the length of the TM AEG it's made for, but is compatible with any hop unit that takes AEG barrels.

 

Spring(s):

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/bolt_sp_thicker.html

I still feel PDI make the best springs. Airsoft Pro ones are a little hot and Guarder ones are pretty hard to find (plus it's free shipping so why not). Add a small range of them as they're £8 each and you can easily sell the ones you don't want later. Remember, you want 'Type96' ones.

 

Barrel spacers:

http://www.x-fire.org/type96/e.t96_bs_aeg.html

Your link was correct.

 

Finally, three things:

1. Remember you will pay £13 + 20% VAT on your PDI stuff. Airsoft Pro is based in Czech Republic so you won't pay any there.

2. On the checkout for Airsoft Pro, be sure to select PayPal and use that - the conversion commission your bank will charge you if you don't use PayPal will still be more than the silly exchange rates PayPal charges (plus you'll get buyer protection from PayPal which never hurts).

3. Consider a Mancraft SDiK. Not sure of the compatibility with the Mauser SR, but they do make a Maruzen APS-2 clone Type96 kit so it might just work. If it does, this is kind of the better option for your power source (as it replaces the cylinder internals), doesn't require a 90^o trigger, has a shorter, lighter bolt pull, is adjustable and slightly quieter than spring. Works out around the same price if you factor in not having to buy a new trigger, cylinder or cylinder internals. There are a few threads on here about it, and I'd encourage you to look into it some more before committing to the spring route.

[rolfinator]

Wow proffrink, thanks for your elaborating answer, the hints and all the links.

The "funny" thing is, that I never heard of conversion kits from spring to gas- I will not only consider this, but actually buy it -> [1].

I will mail them now, with a link to my gun, so they can make sure it works with my Mauser (instead of me paying the return shipping costs^^).

(I will also ask, if the hop unit is supported by my Mauser).

 

There are a few nooby questions left:

1. When changing from spring to gas, I don't have to buy a new Spring and also no new "Cylinder, spring guide and piston". Is there anything else I don't have to buy, when changing to gas? You also mentioned the trigger unit: Is this because, with gas instead of a stronger spring, there is less force on the trigger?

 

2. Will there be an increase of distance/power of the rifle? This was mainly the idea behind the tuning stuff I was thinking of in the first place

 

3. When searching the forum, I you are constantly suggesting the Mancraft kit- so you have to be very satisfied

The thing, what I read a few times is about the weather conditions: I am mostly playing in cold weather (15-25°C, due to my location). Will there be any problems?

 

Thanks again for your awesome answer!

Cheers

 

[1]...http://shop-mancraft.com/en/conversion-kits-for-spirng-rifles/39-konwersja-sdik.html

[proffrink]

No worries.

 

1. You don't need any cylinder internals (including the cylinder head, spring, piston, spring guide), the cylinder or trigger mechanism. I wouldn't bother with any of those.

 

2. It's completely variable - you can crank it up to 500ft/s or bring it down to 350ft/s. It'll go far far higher than that even but obviously don't if it'll cause any legal issues where you are.

 

3. Yup, it's excellent - shorter and lighter bolt pull for quick follow-up shots, marginally quieter, variable muzzle energy depending on what you set. I think there are 5-6 of us now running them on these forums and the only complaint so far is the regulator takes a little bit of time to bed in properly (around 300 shots). Cold weather should be fine - CO2 deals with the colt much better than green gas, plus there's almost no cool down due to the low rate of fire, so if it's a cold day you can just adjust your regulator before you reach the crono and make sure it's sitting where you'd like it to.

 

Spring is sooo 2014.

[rolfinator]

Sorry for not getting back to you earlier. I wrote Mancraft a week ago via mail and facebook but didn't receive any response...

As soon as I got one, I will post here again (and also confirm the compatibility with the Mauser, in case someone is looking for the same probem ).

 

Thanks in the meanwhile!

[rolfinator]

On 3/24/2016 at 0:04 PM, proffrink said:

Barrel (inner):

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/05.html

You want one for the 'TYPE 89' (yes 89, not 96, not 89 'short') as all these AEG cut-barrels will work with the new hop unit you're buying and apparently this is the current inner barrel length that you need*. These are 6.05 barrels and have an extremely high grade of finish. Don't let people talk you into tighter bores being better as it's rarely the case when put alongside a quality 6.03 or 6.05 where the BB is less likely to get interfered with during its travel down the barrel (and get an inconsistent hop).

*For the love of all that is holy, please check your inner barrel length before ordering. It's worth doing this right as PDI barrels are expensive. Again, you can order any AEG barrel on the PDI website - the name of the gun it 'fits' in simply corresponds to the length of the TM AEG it's made for, but is compatible with any hop unit that takes AEG barrels.

 

Barrel spacers:

http://www.x-fire.org/type96/e.t96_bs_aeg.html

Your link was correct.

 

3. Consider a Mancraft SDiK. Not sure of the compatibility with the Mauser SR, but they do make a Maruzen APS-2 clone Type96 kit so it might just work. If it does, this is kind of the better option for your power source (as it replaces the cylinder internals), doesn't require a 90^o trigger, has a shorter, lighter bolt pull, is adjustable and slightly quieter than spring. Works out around the same price if you factor in not having to buy a new trigger, cylinder or cylinder internals. There are a few threads on here about it, and I'd encourage you to look into it some more before committing to the spring route.

 

So I followed your suggestions and I have to say: Thank you The mancraft stuff is awesome! I was afraid of playing in cold temperatures: No problem. Aber you can even modify the fps a bit upwards if you are not playing against others to see whats possible with your gun  

 

For now, I wanted to take care of the other stuff I thought about the other time: The inner barrel. Before I order at x-fire (together with the barrel spacers) I measured the inner barrel and I am completely confused...I wanted to order the 433mm inner barrel, but if you take a look at the image I attached, it's a lot longer (measured from top of the barrel until the point shown) o_O

[Hangtight]

In answer to your question about the difference in barrel length, just make three barrel spacers from masking tape to rigidly locate the inner barrel in the outer barrel. That way it doesn't matter if the barrel doesn't reach the end cap. In fact the dead volume past the end of your new, shorter inner barrel will act as a moderator.
The Mauser is just a rebrand of the Well MB 05 and uses the same action as the MB 01 (L96). If you're changing the barrel then go to an AEG type (for example Prometheus EG, I use a 455mm AK length one in my MB 01 with a Sdik, if I'd known about the PDI ones when I put mine together... ) combined with the Action Army Type 96 Hop. This works well with a Modify flat hop bucking and nub, or an R hop of you are able to fit one. The AA hop gives an excellent air seal and consistent hop. With the flat hop it is perfectly able to lift 0.4g BBs, heavier with the R hop.
You'll also find the fit of the outer barrel to the receiver can be a bit sloppy, but nothing a bit of ptfe tape can't sort out.

The trigger is fine with the light spring in the Sdik, but the feel can be improved with some careful cleaning up of the sear faces.

 

[rolfinator]

13 hours ago, Hangtight said:

In answer to your question about the difference in barrel length, just make three barrel spacers from masking tape to rigidly locate the inner barrel in the outer barrel. That way it doesn't matter if the barrel doesn't reach the end cap. In fact the dead volume past the end of your new, shorter inner barrel will act as a moderator.
The Mauser is just a rebrand of the Well MB 05 and uses the same action as the MB 01 (L96). If you're changing the barrel then go to an AEG type (for example Prometheus EG, I use a 455mm AK length one in my MB 01 with a Sdik, if I'd known about the PDI ones when I put mine together... ) combined with the Action Army Type 96 Hop. This works well with a Modify flat hop bucking and nub, or an R hop of you are able to fit one. The AA hop gives an excellent air seal and consistent hop. With the flat hop it is perfectly able to lift 0.4g BBs, heavier with the R hop.
You'll also find the fit of the outer barrel to the receiver can be a bit sloppy, but nothing a bit of ptfe tape can't sort out.

The trigger is fine with the light spring in the Sdik, but the feel can be improved with some careful cleaning up of the sear faces.

 

 

Thanks Hangtight, for stepping in for Proffrink. You guys are great

 

So I have several questions now.

1) First off, is the Mauser SR Pro Tactical a "Maruzen APS-2 Type96 clone" or a "rebrand of the Well MB 05"? Or is this the same? (This is maybe the first in a row of stupid questions^^)

 

2) Since I will make use of my free shipping voucher at x-fire, I will order as many parts there as possible. Would you suggest to go for the TM AEG barrel (AK47・AK47S) with 455mm length, than the Type 89 with 433mm? I read at the airsoftsniperforum that the best inner barrel length is 430 (at least for Type 10 rifles), when shooting with heavier BBs as I do (0.3 to 0.36).

 

3) Would you prefer the Action Army Hop over the Hop I was going to buy, or do you have no opinion on that? (which is totally okay, of couse ).

 

4) Wouldn't it be an advantage for stability reasons if I adjust the outer barrel to the inner barrel? I mean, if the inner barrel is not only stabilized by the barrel spacers, but also by the cap at the end of the outer barrel? I cannot find any outer barrels at x-fire, unfortunately. But I am sure they had some :/

 

Thanks, 

Rolfi

[Hangtight]

22 minutes ago, rolfinator said:

 

So I have several questions now.

1) First off, is the Mauser SR Pro Tactical a "Maruzen APS-2 Type96 clone" or a "rebrand of the Well MB 05"? Or is this the same? (This is maybe the first in a row of stupid questions^^)

 

They're the same thing. Some of the Well offerings use internals that are a clone of the Maruzen 96. The Mauser is identical to the MB 05.

 

22 minutes ago, rolfinator said:

 

2) Since I will make use of my free shipping voucher at x-fire, I will order as many parts there as possible. Would you suggest to go for the TM AEG barrel (AK47・AK47S) with 455mm length, than the Type 89 with 433mm? I read at the airsoftsniperforum that the best inner barrel length is 430 (at least for Type 10 rifles), when shooting with heavier BBs as I do (0.3 to 0.36).

 

There's not much to choose between them, splitting hairs. Generally the barrel length is important because you don't want an excess of barrel for the cylinder volume (spring rifle), but seeing as you have plenty of gas volume with the Mancraft it's far less important. And you'll want to be shooting 0.4-0.43g with a 500fps (0.2g) limit. 0.4g will still be doing 350fps, carry further and be more accurate.

 

22 minutes ago, rolfinator said:

 

3) Would you prefer the Action Army Hop over the Hop I was going to buy, or do you have no opinion on that? (which is totally okay, of couse ).

 

The AA hop is better made in terms of finish and fit on some components, but where it really scores is the hop adjust is sandwiched between the hop body and the full diameter barrel retainer, which means it can't move fore /aft and retains the hop setting. It still benefits from a tiny drop of medium Loctite on the adjustment grub screw though.

 

22 minutes ago, rolfinator said:

 

4) Wouldn't it be an advantage for stability reasons if I adjust the outer barrel to the inner barrel? I mean, if the inner barrel is not only stabilized by the barrel spacers, but also by the cap at the end of the outer barrel? I cannot find any outer barrels at x-fire, unfortunately. But I am sure they had some :/

 

Thanks, 

Rolfi

 

The barrel spacer, whether it's diy masking tape or an over priced lump of plastic probably does a better job of stabilising the barrel than the end cap. It's another sloppy fit component, and if yours is anything like my MB 01 it'll need a couple of wraps of ptfe tape to stop it unscrewing itself a little with every shot.

[rolfinator]

4 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

 

They're the same thing. Some of the Well offerings use internals that are a clone of the Maruzen 96. The Mauser is identical to the MB 05.

 

Sooo many questions answered

 

4 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

 

There's not much to choose between them, splitting hairs. Generally the barrel length is important because you don't want an excess of barrel for the cylinder volume (spring rifle), but seeing as you have plenty of gas volume with the Mancraft it's far less important. And you'll want to be shooting 0.4-0.43g with a 500fps (0.2g) limit. 0.4g will still be doing 350fps, carry further and be more accurate.

 

So far I was only playing CQBs with pistols only. However, some ppl there told me that if I choose 0.3 I "don't know anything about sniping. The BBs are way too heavy". Thanks for backing my decision. And explaining me, why even heavier BBs are worth using

 

4 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

 

The AA hop is better made in terms of finish and fit on some components, but where it really scores is the hop adjust is sandwiched between the hop body and the full diameter barrel retainer, which means it can't move fore /aft and retains the hop setting. It still benefits from a tiny drop of medium Loctite on the adjustment grub screw though.

 

Excellent. I will then go for the AA. I don't know if you are from Europe (I am from central Europe) or the US: Do you have a good European supplier for the AA Hop Up Chamber? I used to buy at airsoftpro.cz and was satisfied with their shop. However, they don't offer Action Army products. And I want to avoid customs and expensive shipping as much as possible...

(And nice tip with the glue to keep the screw in place^^)

 

4 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

 

The barrel spacer, whether it's diy masking tape or an over priced lump of plastic probably does a better job of stabilising the barrel than the end cap. It's another sloppy fit component, and if yours is anything like my MB 01 it'll need a couple of wraps of ptfe tape to stop it unscrewing itself a little with every shot.

 

One question, after you have answered all of my others would have been this. I lately unscrewed the outer barrel to measure the inner barrel and when re-screwing the outer barrel on the main part of the gun, I couldn't tighten the outer barrel without tighting the screw pretty hard, that keeps the barrel in place (the outer barrel always ended up 180° in the wrong direction). This is one more reason, why the outer barrel always gets a tiny little more lose with every shot

 

[Hangtight]

http://www.geniestuff.co.uk/action-army-type-96-complete-hop-up-chamber-for-airsoft-mb01-132-p.asp

 

In the UK.

 

https://www.unit13shop.eu/index.php?action=article&aid=16503&lang=en

 

In the Netherlands.

 

You'll also need to consider what bucking and nub you want to use. I make my own R hop patches, which combined with the Modify flat hop bucking and nub..

 

https://www.unit13shop.eu/index.php?item=modify-flat-hop-up-bucking-0_25g_&action=article&group_id=20000094&aid=12842&lang=en

 

give me the best results. The Modify bucking and nub work pretty well by themselves.

 

The trick with the loose barrel is mucho ptfe plumbers tape wrapped over the threads. Once the magazine retainer is bolted back into the hop through the outer barrel it should locate in the stock which stops the outer barrel rotating.

 

[rolfinator]

21 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

https://www.unit13shop.eu/index.php?action=article&aid=16503&lang=en

 

In the Netherlands.

 

Excellent. Those guys ship to south Germany

 

21 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

 

You'll also need to consider what bucking and nub you want to use. I make my own R hop patches, which combined with the Modify flat hop bucking and nub..

 

https://www.unit13shop.eu/index.php?item=modify-flat-hop-up-bucking-0_25g_&action=article&group_id=20000094&aid=12842&lang=en

 

give me the best results. The Modify bucking and nub work pretty well by themselves.

 

f*ck off...I never heard about RHOP before

I just watched a few youtube videos and this is pretty cool stuff (even more, when you consider the ease of the technique: just a small plastic hose^^).

Since you also make your own (and will definitely do the same): any suggestions for exact material or even hose brand?

 

21 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

 

The trick with the loose barrel is mucho ptfe plumbers tape wrapped over the threads. Once the magazine retainer is bolted back into the hop through the outer barrel it should locate in the stock which stops the outer barrel rotating.

 

 

I misread your other comment about the tape. My brain was stuck with "Gaffer Tape" and MacGyver. The ptfe plumber type makes more sense. I should have this at home! Excellent 

 

 

[Hangtight]

I'm not sure if this supplier ships internationally, but...

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/250911445211?_mwBanner=1

 

That's the stuff I use. It's the right ID so the only sanding required is on the OD. The hardest part to get right with the R hop is the 'thickness' of the slice you remove from the hose by cutting along its length. I use a 6mm dia drill bit (only thing I had to hand at the time) with a flat ground on one side. I can put this inside a short (25mm) section of hose and then use the flat to guide a razor blade for this cut. I can then discard the ends of the slice where there might be a bit of 'wobble' to get the nice smooth bit in the middle. If the slice is too thick then you can simply put a layer of tape on the flat on the tool and try again. In any of this doesn't make sense I'll try and express myself better with some photos.

[rolfinator]

Yes, apparently they ship internationally- I should get it by May 8th

 

If you have time, some photos could help, yes...and maybe not only for me. I am pretty sure, they will help somebody else in the future

However, I can also try to craft it on my own. In the end, it just have to close the hop up window, right?

Here is also some video that shows another method of doing it

 

[rolfinator]

In the meantime I am summarizing the missing tuning parts of my sniper rifle, that you and @proffrink kindly suggested

 

Inner Barrel TM/AEG AK47・AK47S 455mm:
http://www.x-fire.org/etop/05.html

 

Hop Up Unit:
https://www.unit13shop.eu/index.php?action=article&aid=16503&lang=en

 

Flat Hop Up Rubber:
https://www.unit13shop.eu/index.php?item=modify-flat-hop-up-bucking-0_25g_&action=article&group_id=20000094&aid=12842&lang=en

 

Hose for RHOP:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/250911445211?_mwBanner=1

 

3xBarrel Spacers:
http://www.x-fire.org/type96/e.t96_bs_aeg.html

 

Together with the Mancraft SDiK this should be an acceptable gun

 

Do you have the impression I missed something important? I am very open to any improvements!

[Hangtight]

Before you buy the barrel spacers, check whether your rifle has a tapered outer barrel, because the plastic spacers can have trouble accommodating this.

[Hangtight]

About half way through this thread there's a picture of what the tape spacers should look like.

[rolfinator]

39 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

Before you buy the barrel spacers, check whether your rifle has a tapered outer barrel, because the plastic spacers can have trouble accommodating this.

 

"Interesting" what you have to take care of. I never heard of conic airsoft sniper barrels o_O

 

36 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

About half way through this thread there's a picture of what the tape spacers should look like.

 

Thats an awesome thread right there. Very nice how you fitted the Mancraft stuff into your rifle. I am still struggling where to put it on the Mauser SR Pro Tactical (which doesn't have the closed case on the shoulder piece).

Looks like you have a strong background in mechanical engineering

[rolfinator]

Do you actually have the stock trigger unit in place?

[Hangtight]

Stock trigger is fine with the light spring in the Mancraft. However I have opened the trigger up and reshaped and polished the sear faces. They're bloody awful as stock. It's not a zero trigger by any means, but it's now a lot more consistent with less creep.

[rolfinator]

3 hours ago, Hangtight said:

Stock trigger is fine with the light spring in the Mancraft. However I have opened the trigger up and reshaped and polished the sear faces. They're bloody awful as stock. It's not a zero trigger by any means, but it's now a lot more consistent with less creep.

 

Yeah, I saw in your other thread that you polished the sear faces, but I think I remember you wanted to buy a completely different trigger unit...

However, I thought about buying a zero trigger in addition, but they are about 130 euros, which seems to be very expensive (considering the rest of my tuning parts...)

[Hangtight]

I did consider a zero trigger, but once I'd decided to go with the Mancraft it wasn't necessary. €130 is a lot of money for a crisper trigger break.

It takes about an hour to file the sear  faces flat and square, square up the ends and put a micro chamfer on the break edges, then polish. Use a decent lithium grease and try to retain your cool while getting the thing back together.

[rolfinator]

6 hours ago, Hangtight said:

I did consider a zero trigger, but once I'd decided to go with the Mancraft it wasn't necessary. €130 is a lot of money for a crisper trigger break.

It takes about an hour to file the sear  faces flat and square, square up the ends and put a micro chamfer on the break edges, then polish. Use a decent lithium grease and try to retain your cool while getting the thing back together.

 

Harr, harr. Then I will let my craftmanship skills flow

Thanks for the detailed description!

 

[Hangtight]

Just spend a while looking at the mechanism before you pick up a file, just so you are sure you're not putting in an angle that'll try to set the trigger off once it's loaded rather than be completely neutral or even actually holding itself on slightly. You're looking for adjacent sear surfaces to bear on each other across the full width of the surface.

Because the sears aren't hardened steel but a fairly decent, hard alloy don't worry about achieving a mirror polished finish. 1200 grit wet and dry abrasive paper will be fine.

And it's the piston sear reset springs that are the difficult ones to get back in place as you close the trigger box up.

[rolfinator]

Thanks for all the tips! Doing a little nasty work is way better than paying 130 bucks

And it's good to have Youtube for things like this. Even videos to properly disassemble and re-assemble the trigger box^^