proffrink

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  1. Yeh, electric solenoid is basically foolproof at this point but I'd still make considerations based on where you think you could fit the FCU and battery for the FCU. It would be possible to fit them in a PEQ dummy on the rail or perhaps in an empty grip, but I've never thought to look into whether that was possible as I'd heard alright things about the PDiK and wanted to give it a try. Like I say, it's already in there and I'm very happy with how it performs, but I wish they'd dispatch stuff more quickly. Leave about a month between ordering and receiving your parts and make sure you pick up spare seals and elbow push fittings (for the regulator) if you go that route. Also, this should be in the 'High Pressure Air' subforum, so I'm moving it. 'Gas Guns' is for green gas and duster powered stuff.
  2. If eHobby don't bother declaring properly then customs might just let it through, but typically I've found that if that paperwork is filled out then it gets taxed so this is either an anomaly or eHobby not really declaring the package like they should have
  3. Just remember that if you make your own, put an o-ring between it and the real one if possible or all that energy will find its way onto the bit of glass/plastic you want to protect anyway. I'm with you though: Those RIS things are beyond ugly and should be avoided. Cutting your own from 4/5mm Lexan is ezpz.
  4. I'm in the process of building mine around a Mancraft PDiK and MASS - just waiting for the MASS right now. I looked at the Redline Airstock gen 1 and 2, but frankly found them both to be far beyond ugly. It seems the best complete solution is an MASS with something like a Wolverine Storm (the Mancraft regulator is a bit big). I would look into their PDiK for a good semi-auto solution as mine seems to shoot very consistently (+/- 3.5 fps) from the 400-500 I've put through it this week just to test it. Also has the added benefit of being waterproof and without an FCU. The only thing I would say is the trigger break is not as clean as a GBBR, but is certainly still very good. Bear in mind that you'll get around 600-800 shots from a tank. Not sure how much higher that might be on electric solenoid, but could be just shy of 1000 I suppose if all is working well. You also have to do some slight modification to attach the MASS - cutting down the part that the buffer tube usually attaches to. This can be done with a hacksaw and some decent files though if you don't have access to a band saw or circular saw or angle grinder or something. I can let you know how it is when I get it. An additional consideration is minimising air use through having a decent hop unit, bucking and also a long tight bore. I have no idea how much difference this will make, but I wanted to squeeze every shot out of the tank so went for a 6.01 PDI and a flat hop in a ProWin chamber for fairly efficient shooting. R-hop should work well too, but again I have no idea how much of a difference this might actually make. Here it is by the way. Mancraft take so damn long to deliver that (mostly) everything else is done and waiting.
  5. Unfortunately you need to read the new Policing and Crime Act from this year: In short, it reclassifies 'hot' or 'readily convertible' airsoft guns as being section 5 firearms, but we all know it won't be enforced because it's ridiculous. You would have been right about that if you'd said it a few months ago though.
  6. And who's saying that? Them? People who bought it as their first pistol? I don't think AW pistols have been proven at all, whereas TM ones have a really distinct pedigree. If you have the money, just buy TM - the bit about plastic slides being bad is basically nonsense and I'd implore anyone to pick up one of their newer designs and see if they can tell which is plastic and which isn't. The way they apply the finish is basically indistinguishable from real metal at a distance of more than 30cm and the magazine makes it feel more than heavy enough to pass for the real thing. TM Hi-capas are some of the best performing pistols out there given the large gas capacity and fairly foolproof design. Whether Hi-capas in general look good is another story I guess. I know I don't like them but hey.
  7. For most couriers you won't get that choice. EMS, Hong Kong Post etc. all use Parcelforce or Royal Mail when it lands in the UK and everyone knows all the good airsoft shit is from Taiwan, Hong Kong or Japan Also, AFAIK UPS are just as expensive as PF when it comes to import service charges.
  8. Frankly I think any HPA user who doesn't tournament lock isn't doing their bit to discourage the phobia of HPA from site owners, so good on ye.
  9. As above: Airsoft and paintball regulators are different in their input pressure to that which you might be referending. You can buy certain industrial regs but they're still about £50+. Believe me, I've looked. Also their refresh rate is usually arse according to many reviews for the Basylisk and Amped Airsoft white-labelled industrial ones (for fully pneumatic, at least - you might get away with it for electric solenoid). If a manufacturer provided some sort of lockable regulator then great, but those already exist - I still need a tool to remove zipties just like I would need a single allen key to disassemble my entire Redline SFR. The problem here is you're trying to define 'readily', which is what the courts job is now.
  10. And here lies the actual issue: 'Readily convertible' is far too vague. Quick-swap spring gearboxes could do the same thing. Does a 'zip tie' mean you have to 'manufacture' or 'retool' the item in order to get it over the limit? What if I replace my upper with a new, longer barrel by pushing out a pin on my AEG? I'd imagine that could be done in less than 2-3 minutes. Also, AEG springs don't cost £60+. I'm sure you've got a set of spare AEG springs, but I know very few HPA users with a spare set of regulators. We're talking about a disparity of around 60psi between the most efficient electric solenoid and the least efficient fully pneumatic system: On electric solenoid, even 5psi makes a huge difference, so there would need to be a minimum of 30 different regulators or regulator parts to cover those pressure bands. Then there's the issue that as a player I have no idea which regulator to pick for my hop/barrel setup before I buy. I could be conservative and go 10psi behind where I think I might need to be and then find myself short by 80psi, or I could buy a range and return them? I'm also not convinced that they're a high price just because of their adjust-ability - many are a high price because of the brand behind them and their comparative refresh rates. The whole thing is super dumb and frankly deserves about as much of our attention as the people who wrote it gave it. If they better define it I'm happy to abide by it but as it stands there's nothing to say a zip tie isn't enough to stop something being 'readily' convertible. Also I have to use a tool to adjust pressure anyway and I imagine there's an argument to be made for that being beyond 'readily' already.
  11. I suppose, but then as an HPA user I have electric solenoid and fully pneumatic systems that run at vastly different pressures. Regulators - even the cheapest ones - are about 60 quid, and the good, high refresh ones are 130 plus :S Though my situation is a bit unique in that I have different regulators for all my stuff for a series of reasons, there are people out there who will have even two electric solenoid systems that - because of the barrel length/bore, kit brand, hop setup etc. will need to adjust a regulator for their gun. And further to that, the issue is just that: The kit is just the start - the barrel and hop etc. will all mean different pressure settings for different people even with the same kit.
  12. Not really, because the inherent efficiencies of each system are different. Some more expensive electric solenoid can work on a lower pressure whilst something like a Daytona Gun kit needs a minimum of 110psi in the majority of cases. 110psi in a Polarstar is far more than enough to break the legal limit twice over (and the engine, but you get the point). Unless places start selling UK-friendly kits, I see no way this can happen. It's another ludicrously unenforceable bit of legislation because you're then regulating pressure regulators. I suppose the best thing one could do would be to set the 'UK safe' pressure then spot-weld a tournament lock (like the Wolverine storm one) so it's no longer readily convertible. Or you could round off the pressure adjustment socket? Of course you are then screwed if you want to use it for a different kit in either case so I dunno. I for one am leaving my stuff as is (i.e. set and zip-tied) until someone gets taken to court to figure out this mess (which I think we all know probably won't happen).
  13. Merged all 3 into one big happy family.
  14. I mod a knitting forum. better watch yourself
  15. http://www.parcelforce.com/help-and-advice/receiving/how-are-customs-fees-calculated Basically instead of express packages costing £13.50 and standard packages costing £8, both will now cost £11.25. Gripping news I know.