APS ASR110 upgrading this d*mn thing...

[Sitye]

Hello all,

 

Looking for some Pro Tips™ on upgrading this lovely (if it fired straight) APS ASR110

 

It's not the desert edition but i've painted it to look as if it were (ish)

 

Currently the issues i am looking to improve on are:

 

228 fps - i need to get this about 310+ at least to make it viable really. - It currently only has an M90 in it, and from what i've seen/read/felt the gearbox should survive an M100 without needing more work.

 

The hop up - this thing is the worst part by far - fully wound on, it fires straight with no upspin or bad loss of spin, but strays to the right at about 2 oclock, compensated for that on Sunday buy tilting the gun. Worked great for shooting round corners though! haha. Found a Lonex hop and buck for 25.99 on ebay so may try that out. Wind the hop off even a fraction and the rounds just drop as if there wasn't a hop at all.

 

Range is great considering the above, but grouping isn't, i could probably pepper a wide van at 20m+ with 5 rounds. - not sure what barrel it is in there, but hoping the other upgrades might improve this before i invest any more (see hop issue for that)

 

but wondering if any of you have any experience with one of these? or any tips on better / cheaper parts? or if anyone fancies a project to get this thing up to scratch with me as despite having been playing for 10+ years i've not ever done an upgrade myself.

 

Any help appreciated

 

Si Tye

 

[Samurai]

The 228 fps is very low for an M90. Just replace the hopup rubber, clean the barrel and check the result first. No need to buy a new hopup unit yet.

[Guest PT247]

aye very low. My APS (not an ASR110 btw) was dead consistent 330fps out the box, fired straight as a button and had fantastic range. If it is new I'd take it back, if it has a few miles under it's belt then as said above, change the hop bucking and possibly the nub too. Also while stripped check the nozzle for damage. I'd be wary about internal to the gearbox upgrades unless you need to open it up. APS (from my experience use very loose tolerances and like to be shimmed loosely. Changing the spring could solve the issues if it is old; then a new M90 may be all you need rather than an M100

[Sitye]

Thanks for the advice, apparently it's done that from out the box, i bought it rather cheaply second hand, so just looking at getting it sorted with no real experience but sadly can't return it.

 

228 is upsettingly low, and i suspect a faulty part, but as you've said, i don't fancy opening it up unless 100% necessary.

 

I'm gonna get a spring tonight and give that a try, trouble is i don't have a chrono at home so will have to wait for the weekends game day anyway...

 

Thanks again for the advice though!

[Sitye]

looking at hop bucking/rubber any ideas what a good degree to go for is?

 

I've no idea the difference, can imagine but not sure...

 

(yeah i'm that oblivious at this stage)

[Guest PT247]

60' should be ok, maybe a 50' but that is quite soft

[Sitye]

Update:

 

Got home and took the barrel out, the hop was twisted (also fixed the previously unmentioned non-functional EBB - broken spring) set it back, it all looks really unused and clean throughout, might do a barrel clean if i can find a rod

 

Will see how well i get on sunday now, at least it'll be shooting straight!

 

Doing the spring looks like a right git, despite having a QC spring, you have to remove the entire GBox which is a faff. So will hold off and hope cleaning it gets 100fps out of it (yeah right) thanks for the tips guys

[Guest PT247]

can you not remove the buffer tube to get to the QR spring?

[straffham]

If you've reset the hop unit and hop rubber in place and the hop unit is sitting correctly under spring pressure in the gearbox apperture then this might in itself push the fps up somewhat from what it was?

 

Does the stock tube screw into the receiver or does it slide onto another tube which is cast as part of the receiver (like most M4 AEGs)? If its the former then you should be able to unscrew the stock tube and then access the QR spring release, if its the latter then yeah you'd have to remove the gearbox from the lower receiver, which is a pain, though not too difficult, but much better than having to open the gearbox.