SCAR_Jester

Should be easy to remove, just make sure it's all off before you respray! (there's guides to do a good job)

Possibly from patrol base? - They do darker red, green and blue two tones. However it can be often rushed, thick layers of paint that haven't dried properly.. it comes off stupid easy as a result though so that's handy haha

Congrats and welcome (officially now you're rambo'd up) to the sport!

Where can you get a tank stock for it and how much?! Ive only put off tippmann because of the line!

So the price was £300 (you're sure?) which you paid and now they want more? I've never had an issue however if you think all is fine you could try and call them. It is possible you read €300 as £300, however regardless sites dont let you pay custom amount so I doubt that's the reason.

That all sounds good till you realise that's 83-84,000 canisters... Suppose after a few months of heavy Co2 use you could make a few bucks back.

You'll need a lot of canisters to be able to sell them! haha, Good luck to you

I was under the impression that an empty metal canister could be recycled, then again some sites put them in general waste bins... The Depot (Glasgow) have started to collect them and use them to weigh down props for the "Must have 2 people lift" - in theory so it really does need two people to lift! (also loud, which is another cool in-game factor). Probably not helpful but I think the answer is, no there's no special way like batteries.

So I'm trying to put in some new gears to my ICS CXP 16 L, however when I get to the "switch to semi and pull gearbox out" part, it comes out half way then gets stuck. Am I missing something because I have no idea what is going on and there is no visual sign of something stopping it from budging. (and yes all other steps have been checked twice) Any help is greatly appreciated Thanks - Corky

Ok, fixed the blasted thing. Originally the piston was stuck in the gears and after I fixed that problem I placed the cutoff lever in Top tip fro any M14 owners, the cutoff lever has to go in at specific turns on the sector gear as it can get caught on a part if it goes in at the wrong rotation (at least mine did) So yes, fixed.

Righto, will do. I'll reply later tonight when I'm free and able to open it up

What should I do with it?

Tried looking inside already, oddly enough when it was stuck the sector gear was not near the piston to stop it from moving when pushed by hand. Don't know how trigger contacts would be a problem, I mean the motor actually gets power, you can feel it try and move slightly as well as the battery heats up fast so contacts are fine.

Hi all, Got my Cyma M14 and for a while it worked very well, have not opened it up past taking the barrel out to put in a new hop bucking. Suddenly when firing it jams and all I hear is *click* I took out the gearbox and the motor was trying to turn but couldn't. I checked all solder point and even if the motor was going the right way with 3 different fully charged 8.4v NimH's. I tried moving the gears by hand and it wouldn't budge, opened it up and it turns perfectly. I am completely baffled by this and have no idea what is causing it as all possibilities I know off have been checked off. It should also be noted that the cutoff lever for changing between semi and full-auto will happily go to full-auto position but only when the gears are in the correct rotation position will it go to semi-auto. After opening the box for a 3rd time and closed it up, it fired one shot on semi, I then put it on full auto and it just went *click* If anyone has a fix or could help with this that would be great. Thanks - Corky

So I think I have a wee shopping list of basic parts to make the gun wind up a bit quicker and help it last longer. Let me know what you all think. ZCI reinforced 13:1 gears http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gears/zci-gear-set-13-1 ZCI reinforced piston w/ 14 teeth steel http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/zci-piston-14-teeth-reinforced ZCI nylon piston head (small upgrade from stock one nothing fancy) http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/zci-piston-head-nylon Gate PicoSSR3, small, cheap and easy to solder with no fancy things I don't need http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gate-electronics-mosfet-switch-picossr3 SHS High torque motor http://www.amazon.co.uk/SHS-TORQUE-MOTOR-AIRSOFT-GEARBOX/dp/B00DPIVUG2 Deans (dumbass question but are these real or "fakes" as I've heard fakes exist?) http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__11961__Nylon_T_Connectors_10_Pairs_20pc_.html And as big a LiPo as I can fit in a crane stock (7.4v) As I said, only the basic stuff. Keeps the cost down and gives me what I want.

I don't think I want to mess with a micro switch at the moment, so that'll help a little in the scar factor. I may as well just get a new strong piston for durability. Also I'm strung between the performance and reinforced 13:1 ZCI gears, what do you think?

Thanks, and yeah I got plenty of shims lying around!

was thinking of an AB one but then again I have an external spring decompress button, also I don't care about expelling a few extra bb's on full auto if it saves me a few £ in a mosfet. Was looking into a gate's one already due to some of their sizes, but I'll look around for some cheaper ones perhaps. thanks again, I think that's me sorted now

Right that's perfect news to hear. I'll fiddle with it and not bother with a motor replacement from the "ICS turbo 3000" right now, and see how it goes. but I might in the future. Last question I promise (maybe) Can you give me an idea of a good mosfet to buy? When I said I lack experience, that was as in 0 experience

You're a star, thanks for the help once again! So just aim for high speed then I assume? (I was going on the principal that torque was get off the line fast and get rid of inertia fast for semi-auto build or whatever)

So I love my ICS CXP - 16 L proline and want to make it better, By better I mean snappier trigger response, little quieter (if possible) and generally just more torque [Will be playing a lot of CQB soon so not much point making a speed build but instead a high torque for the large amounts of semi-auto action.] I've looked about and as far as I know the wires are good to go (16 awg teflon coated), gears are metal but I will replace with some form of 13:1 high torque (please advise me on a make) I will correct the AoE (got pads on the way) I want to use an 11.1v lipo (on its way too) - So, age old question, to mosfet or not? (I know the theory just lack the experience) piston upgrade? And how do I go about decreasing the distance the trigger is pulled? Thanks in advanced to any and all replies! - Corky

Of course it would be locked to semi, and I will look into stronger parts, I don't play at section8 much at all anymore so having a hot gun for there isn't a problem. Also, (not 100% I need to do more research) but I'm fairly sure this specific gun's gears can take the stronger spring, but the cylinder itself I will probably have to replace.

Don't worry I know my site limits and all the rest, this is going to be a VERY slow DMR build as I have a lot going on right now, so first is what do I need for a DMR, which would be range and accuracy, but as a DMR sitting back a bit, I need my bb's to go fast enough to count. Then I go for the things that increase lifespan, make things work faster and smoother. Then the fine tuning and little fiddly bits.

Yeah I know I'm making a list to upgrade the gun, barrel and hopup work really well stock so I don't want to mess with that just yet (crazy accurate), I just want a higher fps so I can put heavier bb's in, the gun has the range at the moment And as for the internals I'm gonna just correct AoE, reshim, clean it all up and a new motor. I'll look into replacing the cylinder for longevity reasons too, bit it isn't at the top of my list. Thanks though