NH Shooter

Fair enough... I've got the barrel and as far as I know... Installed the rhop correctly. I've gone for a m nub in a lonex hop... As soon as I can get out to some range... I'll see if I can get it working. I can't say as I can do anything conclusive... I just haven't got the time. But I can certainly give the differences in std vfc vs upgrades.

Yeah... It's already wired to the rear... Just poke it in.

I use the condor one without the sewn in pouches... I can fit 6x M4, 2x pistol and an administration pouch without any hassle. Add a belt and I can add 6x smokes, 3x M4, 2x pistol, dump pouch, maxpexition sabre cat. And a 3ltr water pack. I would also say I have plenty more room to add bits...

You R-Hop a twist barrel? The science and simple enough... But in practice... Any ideas? Experience?

Yeah... It's not longevity I'm talking about. It's functionality. I'm sure they do what they mean to... And they will last as long as they last... But depending on intended use, they may need to be upgraded. But if you already own, or have access to 4...You should have all the info you need...

I'm no expert by any means... But I sad always led to believe that cheaper sets like this lose functionality quite quickly... Lack of channels, non scanning, limited connections, no vox function... Which has its uses... So things like this are perfectly functional... But sometimes it's better to spend a bit more... Depends on what your end game is.

Not sure on the hop side. It only has to provide a simple function, a properly made one should be no more or less agitate than any other... But the M4 variant is just my only point of reference so far... I will need to dig... The cnc gearbox though isn't an issue...

Have access to cnc and manual lathe and mill. Autoclave. Minor rapid prototype... And working with carbon isn't an issue. The rifle would be a better designed SL9 based on an M4 build... Same disassembly, etc. Thankfully the workings are all self contained, so once they are bedded in, the rest is pretty simple... I'm liking the cosplay idea... Would be helpful to get your mould... Good call!

Hi all... I'm trying to get my hands on a decent dmr base. But I can't abide an M4 variant, and nothing else really takes my fancy. So what I'd really like is a SL9... Thing is... Not only are they rare, but the design is a bit lacking. All that stock, but no place for a battery, based on a G36, terribly awkward disassembly... It just doesn't sit right. So what would be better... Would be to make a body based in a M4 hop, V2 box, rear wired hollow stock for a much bigger battery... Etc. Realistically out of carbon fibre... Has anyone had any experience of doing anything similar? Any pitfalls you found?

Yeah... 4-5 watts are the big ish ones... 0.5, or PMR446 type are completely hassle free and good to about 1km... Ish. I just checked eBay and their also quite cheap.

The licence is based around the output of the radio... You really need to Google it... Getting the licence though isn't hard. It's mainly paperwork. Generally speaking you shouldn't need a radio powerful enough to want a licence. I think the unlicensed limit is 4 watts... But Google it... *edit* I fully lied to you... 0.5 watts...

Mine couldn't care less... I mainly get called a big child. Then she moans at me for finding bb's everywhere. And then she wants to pop smoke in the garden to see what it did... Then she goes back to calling me a big child...

I'm pretty sure the full finger ones leave you with plenty of dexterity... If I'd have started in the winter I'd have gone for full gloves... I know a good few that use full mechanix for real steel quick reloads on shottys. So they would be a fine choice of anyone is worried about the lack of protection.

The machanix framers gloves are a good half way house... They are only fingerless for your thumb, index and middle fingers.

I use machanix fingerless mpact gloves... But would be happy using anything they make...

That's my point... It's volume over accuracy. If you were to take the blade/pin out of any given front sight... It wouldn't remove accuracy. Consistently shouldering the rifle is more than sufficient. To not use a sight at range means you stand a chance of missing your first shot... But do does using them... If you don't use a sight, at say... 60-70?... the round goes roughly where you point it, accurate to a metre... Ish... Radius. You WILL need a follow up shot. But you also will with irons. That gets better at shorter range, but at some point the benefit becomes marginal. At 30m... I'm confident I can get first round hits. Def at 15... And I don't see the need for irons at 30 onwards because my rifle can't out shoot me... It's just a preference... When my sighting system can get defeated by a medium wind or a twig... It's time to find a new system. For me, anyways...

If the light is low, that doesn't affect the accuracy of the rifle... The sights will still be of by the same amount. Bb rounds don't have a ballistic trajectory and their acutely affected by variation and conditions. Shots sighted for 20 yards will be wildly different if shot at 60. Obviously your shot will go roughly where you aim it... But there no way on earth you can select your target. If I find my sights useless it could be because the sights are simple to sight in, the hop is correctly set, the rifle is fine... But at 50 yards I don't consider a body sized target to require the use of irons. All sights are used to give good shot placement. Bb guns can't do that... Their not precision. As such.... And I've distinctly noticed that my shots at 50-70 and below don't suffer from not using sights and irons actually get on the way of seeing the arching flight path. It's just my view... When rifs can shoot inch groups at 60 yards, I'm in! :-)

It really doesn't... A true poa-poi shot can't be made with a rif past 10m ish... After that you get variation... If you were to take irons out to 25 yards ish... You would be hitting dinner plates, not 50p coins... Add cross winds, shooter variation, ammo variation, rifle variation....

I genuinely don't understand why people bother using sights... Rifs only seem poa accurate to about 10m ish before it all goes wrong. And at that range, where shot placement isn't important... You don't need sights...

Nitecore MT2C and a tail switch... Awesome lights...

I shall give it a go... Thanks for the info :-)

I have a vfc recon m4...And it's developed a funny habit... Not really a habit, but last skirmish it would refuse to fire in semi a couple of times. I used it on semi pretty much all day for around 4k rounds but about 4 times you would pull the trigger (full travel) and nothing would happen. You fixed it by either "safe-semi" or "full-semi"... So move the selector and is back to working again. The problem never happened in quick succession... If it happened in one game, it wouldn't occur for another hour or so... So no pattern. I was going to bust open the gearbox anyway to have a poke... But before I do... Any ideas?

I have no earthly idea to be honest... I did get the local place to chrono it and it came in at near the 330fps mark. I would assume it's a m100 based on that. The previous owner said he had it downgraded... But I'm not sure I believe him. If it helps... Out of the box it might be perfectly suitable... Maybe look into the hop. I know mine would gain from having that tinkered with.

Not even remotely true, I'm afraid.... Springs have a finite definition. It will have a spring rate defined in N/mm or k... For a simple spring. Simple testing next to any known spring will give you a ballpark. Things like this are always worth some education I think.

Honestly... Someones having you on. Spring rates can't be deduced by looking or feeling a spring. Not even semi accurately. I just wanted to point it out in case you were relying on them for information or something. You would actually need to measure it... Even basically... But measured none the less.