Salamanca
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Posts posted by Salamanca
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I have found p mags slow to fill, some more than others. What I do is heat the gas cannisters first by putting them on a radiator for a short while to increase internal pressure. If the cannisters are half full this is essential as the pressure is too low to over come the fill valve, and the internal gas pressure for any reasonable period of time. In terms of filling at game site , I keep the cannister in a thermos flask thermal jacket with two small rechargeable hand warmers on either side. I bought both the thermal jacket and the hand warmers cheaply on Amazon. Also small £9.99 digital scales are a great tool for keeping tabs on gas levels- an empty GM P Mag weighs 339/340 grams, and full to the limit is around 370 grams, with consumption at around 5 bbs per gram.
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Guns Modify do a metal hop adjuster wheel. It has 36 adjustment increments as apposed to the 24 in the standard plastic adjuster wheel. Subsequently it is much more precise, and has a metal plunger with a strong spring. I have fitted it in 2 of my MWS rifles, and it holds zero perfectly. It is rated to only lift 0.35bbs, but with the high end hop rubbers now available, like the Pink Flamingo and the ML MR hop, I have found it has no issues with 0.40s and 0.43s in my DMR builds. However you will likely have to buy it from HK from somewhere like Airsoft global, though you might get it from Fire Support.
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I am running Abbey Sniper gas in the summer which is effectively green gas without silicone (which is why I use it). In the winter and Autumn I run Mapp gas with a Madbull Propane adaptor for filling. Silicone-free Mapp gas provides the same level of power as Guarder black gas, and costs very little from a builder's merchant. I have uprated all springs in the nozzle, and I run 120% or 130% buffer springs with heavier buffer weights. My HAO MWS has a steel CNC Robin Hood bolt carrier with a brass end weight, so plenty of strength and recoil. I feel no need to run 144a in the summer, as all my rifles can easily handle green/sniper gas, and if I need a low muzzle energy level, I turn the NPAS down.
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I have fitted a Prometheus 370mm 6.0mm barrel and NPAS to my MWS MK16 build. It is a DMR, normally putting out 1.8J on 0.48s, and the range and accuracy is outstanding. I also have an HAO 416 MWS, which has a 250mm 6.01 PDI barrel, and this rifle is equally impressive in terms of accuracy. I have also had good results from a 410mm Crazy Jet barrel in another of my MWS collection. As many people will say accuracy is down to bore quality, but tight bore barrels in gas rifles always make best possible use of the energy available. If you are going to run at sub 1.14J levels then a 370mm Prometheus barrel in either 6.03mm or 6.00mm form, will take you over the limit. An NPAS does give you the ability to tune the rifle accordingly - for example my HAO in the current 30 degree hot weather, had a 30% power increase which I could adjust through the NPAS.
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On 19/04/2023 at 02:22, KirbyHCI said:
Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?
Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.
I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.I have several MWS and I run them on sniper gas in the summer(no silicone to contaminate the hop) which is slightly stronger than green. One of my rifles, a MK16 DMR runs at 2.2J (RIFT airsoft have a 2.32J limit for DMRs) and it has had no internal modifications apart from Laylax hop unit, Laylax barrel, TNT bucking and Omega nub. I have bought an uprated Eagle6 spring set which I have not yet fitted, and so far nothing has broken. One of my other MWS and Archwick L119, is internally Guns Modify, and I have had no problems with it yet on Sniper gas. During the recent winter with temperatures around zero I ran both rifles on MAPP gas (strong black gas) with no issues. However I would say it would be wise to upgrade the spring set, as this costs little, and in the summer maybe use a stronger buffer setup.
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I have 7 GM p mags. Two leaked from new which I fixed with some PTF tape around the fill valve on one, and with the other a good dowsing of silicone oil in the exhaust port/gas router for the other. The silicone oil eventually softened the router internals to a point where it sealed. I then let the oil drain out and wiped any surplus away.
You need to load them with a speed loader, sliding the mag external cover down is a waste of time... bbs everywhere. I found it best to epoxy a speed loader tip onto a loader for zero movement, and then get the feed angle right. The mag lips do get easier, though hard to start with. The strongest speed loader for the job I found was a Viper 155bb loader at £6, other loaders like the 470bb TM mag loader simply cracked internally due to the pressure needed. Gas capacity is big, they do not like Abbey gas nozzles, but do like the Madbull propane adaptor. FPS is slightly higher. Recently in the cold weather at 4 degrees C using MAPP gas with the Madbull Adaptor, (equivalent of Guarder Black in power terms) I got 94 shots from one fill with good consistency.....at 1.6J. Quality is good, and they are noticeably lighter.
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Great, thanks for the update. I will give my output valves a service, based on this.
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I bought six. One leaked from new out of the box, and another leaked after being used once. It appears they have both leaked from the fill valve. They seem to produce a bit more power than standard mags, but it is a small increase. Luckily I still have six standard mags. At some point I will get them sorted.
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As Lozart says the internals are the same across the MWS platform. One thing you are likely to want to change is the soft nub, in order to realistically hop anything above .28, which if you want to get the best from this RIF's potential, is not a bad idea. If you buy a MK18, you will need to source a MK18 barrel nut wrench, or modify a similar barrel nut wrench in order to do this. This will not be easy, I know as I have been there. If you buy a CQBR you will not have this issue if you need to change the nub, or bucking - the later of which will eventually need changing at some point.
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Yes if you use an NPAS like the G&P then you can have both DMR and a CQB rifle in one. Badabing does have a video on modifying your MWS selector to semi auto for DMR, which is pretty easy.
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I have owned a VFC 416, in fact it was my first gas gun. The externals are superb, however it proved pretty inconsistent in power terms, and unless you fit the TNT barrel and hop kit, it is inaccurate . It had an NPAS, which is fine but temperature plays such a big part in the VFC equation, that you will find it virtually impossible to know what your VFC is going to put out, until you chrono it on the day.
I moved on to MWS, after owning 2 GHKs, which were good, but not in the same league as MWS. I have two MWS: One is an URGI DMR, fully upgraded with a G&P NPAS shooting 1.85 J on 0.45s, which stacks up in accuracy against my TM NGRS HK417 DMR - which is saying something. The other is an Archwick L119, which came fully upgraded with Guns Modify internals - like the URGI it is bloody good, and I have it set for CQB at 1.1J.
The moral of the story is go for MWS, upgrade the nub, and fit a tight bore barrel from the onset, then take it from there...you will not be disappointed.
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Hello,
A change in bucking could help. A high quality bucking will provide more hop for less hop pressure. Also barrel length is crucial in DMRs, as you need to get a good cylinder to barrel ratio, as you are using heavy bbs that take longer to leave the barrel than say .25s.
You may need to shorten the inner barrel length. I have built several DMRs using 140 springs and a 360 to 370mm barrel length, was what I found worked best with a V2 non-ported cylinder, using 0.43s. I recently built a G&P SR25 DMR which has a longer V2.5 cylinder, and that was able to feed a 407mm barrel, but I would not have gone any further in length. Your rifle is able to shoot at 2.1J on 0.20s because they leave the barrel before the 'cylinder air charge' is spent. The .40s and .36s you are using are passing through the final section of the barrel by momentum alone, while suffering from the friction of the barrel. Hope this helps.
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On 06/09/2022 at 19:05, 1st commando said:
The hop on mine is outstanding and easily lifts the 0.30g I use and beyond. Accuracy is really good too if you can learn to pull the trigger correctly which takes some getting used to if you are only used to Airsoft triggers
I agree the hop is fine, but it is even better with a TNT TR bucking 50 degree. Mine lifts 0.32s to 50 metres, and the accuracy has improved further due to the bucking change. The trigger pull is realistic compared to the real Glocks I have fired when in the Services, so like 1st Commando said, you have to learn to pull the trigger correctly. Build and finish is outstanding, and setting the hop is a case of setting it up correctly to start with, then leaving it, as it will not shift from recoil.
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I agree with the choice of Maple leaf especially the MR bucking (old version and new). However all their buckings are good, and they work very well with the Omega nub, which is my go to nub for all buckings. However ML buckings can cause feeding problems with some guns - it is down to the longer and thicker lips. Some people have sanded them down, to make them work, and this apparently can sort the issue. From my experience a longer nozzle can sort this problem, or alternatively go for a TNT TR bucking, I have used quite a few of these and they are superb. They are like the ML MR hop, effectively a drop in R hop rubber.
The long and short of it is, if a Maple Leaf bucking and Omega nub works in your rifle it will work well, especially when paired with a Maple Leaf barrel.
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THE TM MWS thread
in Gas Guns
Posted · Edited by Salamanca
I have cured MWS bolt-bounce with an Angry gun heavy buffer and a heavier spring. It seems a problem that some rifles suffer and some do not, as I have had this problem with just one of my rifles. You may be able to cure it with one of those buffer weights fitted with small weights inside, which I recall is what Ollie used.