Kerberos

I know from experience that this effective at removing the Mk18 barrel nut. https://www.brownells.co.uk/MP-15-22-BARREL-NUT-WRENCH-TACTICOOL22-100015709. Just need to give it a few taps with a hammer to get it seated, but I've removed 2 Mk18 rails with it (with a generous amount of heat).

My TM M45A1 mags gave a pretty deep scratch near my trigger guard when slung it to my side. They have metal bumpers on the bottom, unlike the TM MEU mags which have plastic bumpers. Put some black paint in the scratch to kinda blend it back in. My old WE M4 and WE M14EBR are beat and scratched to hell, but for some reason I get bothered when my MWS gets a scratch

Was finally able to get my Mk18 rail off with the Tacticool22 M&P 15-22 Barrel Nut Wrench. Was way easier than using the G&P URX tool since I was able to get way more torque on it. Now to get a second SixG nub, since my original one went to my Block II upper...

Yes, that's the one. Fills my gun in like 3 or 4 cranks real quick

Got to run my Mk18 stock on .30s today and it was operating flawlessly. Was outranging a lot of my friend's AEGs and since I zeroed my optic, it was pretty much point and click. Now just gotta stick the SixG nub and Tan Modify bucking in my second upper to see how well it goes in comparison. Also, no issues reloading my mags multiple times with the Airsoft Tailor adaptor for the Odin speedloader. Got the tension on the clutch set just enough to reliably load 33-34 shots every time.

I was quick and able to snag a second upper receiver before they ran out, since i'm having so much trouble taking off the Mk18 rails. Gonna keep the Mk18 upper stock for CQB and make the second upper for longer range. Already got my SixG nub and modify tan bucking ready from before I even bought my MWS last year

I actually ordered one of the MWS v2 adaptors from you back in late November/early December. Finally got to test it out last month. Worked perfectly with the real Odin once I increased the tension a bit. Loaded my mags all day with no issues. Will get another chance to test it hopefully next weekend

@Reap That's really weird, because my gas block came off just fine after I removed the grub screws. As for the heatgun discoloring the barrel/rail, I had no issues with that. Had the heatgun on the barrel nut for almost 3 minutes and I damaged the clamp holding the gun down more than the gun itself. That being said, I planned to keep the gun mostly stock, the only thing I wantedd to change was hop up nub with the SixG nub I had ordered months before I got the Mk18. Only reason I got the MK18 was because I figured i might as well get one with the nice MK18 length rail by default, so I'd have an option to run with either the shorter MK18 rail, or my 12 inch RIS II rail. I guess I'm just going to keep the internals completely stock, because I don't really want to risk damaging my expensive TM anymore than I have. Ended up epoxying the anti-rotation tab back on, and tried to smooth it out best I could. It's mostly hidden by my replica holosight, but I'm a little upset with myself for messing up the externals of such a nice gun. The gun performed quite well the one time I got to skirmish it. Just wanted to see if i could squeeze out a little bit more accuracy at range with the SixG nub

Does anyone have a picture of the barrel nut keeping the Mk18 Mod 1 GBBR rail locked in once it's been removed? I finally got around to getting a clamp, heatgun, and tool to try to remove it. I ended up shearing off one of the anti-rotation tabs on the rail, but the nut seems glued directly to the rail, not the barrel itself.

I had bought a G&P URX tool with 4 teeth and had to grind down the teeth a bit until they fit the barrel nut. It probably would have been cheaper to make it, but I don't have the tools or knowhow to do it myself.

Same here, I had bought the SixG nub months in advance of buying an MWS after extensive research. Bought the MK.18 so I would have the option of using the Mk18, or swapping to my Block II rail, then the barrel nut stopped me. I have a proper tool, a heatgun, and an AR clamp, but I'm nervous how much heat I should be applying. I don't want to melt or damage anything internally, if that's even possible. Do people remove the 6 hex screws holding the rail to the body before they try unscrewing the barrel nut? Also, I know it's a dumb question, but it IS lefty loosey, right? I don't want to find out I've actually been tightening the thing...

So the nut is also threadlocked? Per Arassuil, the NGRS wasn't, but for the gbbr that seems to be different. Might need to borrow one of my friend's heatguns once I get a tool for this job. Thanks for the help, gents!

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

Hi, I finally took the dive and upgraded myself from a WE M4 gbbr to the TM Mk18 Mod 1. I was trying to access the hop up, but I can't get the outer barrel or rails off. Is there a specific tool I need for this or are there any guides for the mk18 yet?