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3 minutes ago, Shamal said:

Late to the party and too lazy to trawl over old posts.

What's the bic pen technique apart from using tube as a pea shooter?

Spill the beans yous guys!

🤔

Regards 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Mi0795PiPM

[Rifle Doesn't Fire, Makes Weird Clicking Noise When Trigger Pulled, Video Included.]

Everything arrived super early, the charger works great, and when I plugged in my old battery it only detected 1 cell so I think it's safe to say it's dead.

Also the bic pen technique was a big help

[Rifle Doesn't Fire, Makes Weird Clicking Noise When Trigger Pulled, Video Included.]

I've already got the new charger to be safe and it'll probably be better off in the long run.

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Didn't think of that, they are indeed slim enough to both fit in the stock tube.

[Rifle Doesn't Fire, Makes Weird Clicking Noise When Trigger Pulled, Video Included.]

As a final note, the battery sticks out a bit from the back, is there any frequently used solution for this to secure them in the stock?

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She's alive! I've already bought the charger and adapter so I think this mystery is solved.

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Oh ok, that makes sense now. I'll pick up one of those adaptors on eBay when I'm getting the charger and switch the polarity. 

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Should I charge over the mini tamiya or the balance, or am I misunderstanding?

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I have no idea how I missed this.

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After looking a bit into chargers, I noticed that most of them require to be plugged into a power supply, which I do not have or intend to buy. Do you guys have any recommendations for a relatively cheap mains charger?

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41 minutes ago, Predator EAT-14 said:

I'd make sure you have a new charger before putting a new battery on that one. Judging by the fact the last 2 lights stay blue, i would say it's not charging up cell 2, and being that one of them is down to 3.3v which is pretty much as low as you want to safely go, I'd say that one is the one not charging 👍

I'll see if the battery fixes it and if it does I'll get a new charger before fully charging the battery.

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I ended up purchasing one of the turnigy nanotech 1300 2s 25-50c batteries, will update when it arrives.

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Ok cool, I saw someone mention the ISDT q6 nano earlier, would you guys recommend that aswell? I'd probably buy a charger with batteries to be safe.

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Well now I'm stuck between switching the motor or switching the battery. Is there any test I could do to see which one is the faulty one?

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Thanks for the tips, I'm going to have to buy a new battery, do you have any recommendations for a nunchuck 2500-3000mah lipo?

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41 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

Do we have another case of one of those chargers with a dead circuit?

 

I've heard a few stories of those types doing that as well as having had one myself do the exact same thing.

 

the way to tell is if one or more of the led's doesnt change colour when charging.

 

also i'm guessing you gave that gearbox a clean before you photographed it? there should be some grease in there.....

It is fairly greased up but I guess you can't see it too much in the picture, and on my charger the 1 cell light is red when I charge it and changes to this purplish colour when it's done charging, and the 2 and 3 cell lights are always blue.

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13 minutes ago, Iceni said:

What are you using to charge the battery? Because that battery doesn't look to have been balanced charged. With 4.1v in one cell and 3.3v in the other. Both cells should be showing a similar voltage.

Either it's a battery with a dead cell or the charger isn't right.

Charger should be good the people who I got the gun from recommended it to me.

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Yeah i probably will, thanks for the help!

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Here's the insides

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The more i look at it the more it seems like the motor doesnt have enough torque to fully pull back the spring.

Or the battery has degraded

Here's the multimeter readings just in case.

adds up to 7.4

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ok so i put the gun together and pulled the trigger, heard the motor spin and a few clicks, and then the piston got stuck in the same position as before and im back to the clicking like at the beginning, ill do the same thing again and see if it helps.

Also, is the motor pinion meant to spin freely, because mine rotates in steps and has some resistance.

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Well if anything this gave me respect for those motors cause that was hard work. I'll let you know what happens when its together

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3 minutes ago, Iceni said:

Just keep going one step at a time letting the latch hold. You'll see the piston start to move back, It'll get quite hard to make the next step as you get closer to a full cycle, but it should cycle eventually.

ok sure ill see how it goes.

Ok, with incredible difficulty(turning that small gear with the whole spring working against you is damn hard, you were right) i got it fully rotated and it fired off back to the forward position. Should i reassemble and see if it works?

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4 minutes ago, Iceni said:

If it's all the way forwards then put the spring and guide back in. It needs to go in with the piston still in the fully forwards position.

With the guide back in you can rotate the gearbox by hand using a screwdriver on the bevel "I3" taking it one anti reversal step at a time. It'll take some effort but the gun will fully cycle if you have everything right.

 

By one step at a time you men i should rotate it in the direction in which the anti reversal blocks it, and unlock it and spin one tooth at a time?

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Update - following what Iceni said, spring and guide removed, going to try to get the piston to move forwards.

Rotated the I3 gear until it stopped getting blocked by the non return latch, then I could freely move the piston all the way forward by hand.

Any hints on the next step I should take?