ajumma

I would try it without the green gas mod first, since the Gen 2 magazines seem to work just fine without it. I haven’t done the mod to any of my magazines and have run Nuprol 1.0 (low pressure gas) at temps above 18, 2.0 (green gas) at temps above 10, 3.0 (high pressure) at between 4 and 10 degrees and 4.0 (supa high pressure explodes TM guns) at temps below 3 with no issues at all.

Sexy AF. What's the stock?

I’m using an autobot with the stock barrel, and also tried it with the edgi barrel which has a much more narrow window. It worked just fine in both. Just make sure you have a flat nub/concave nub to use with it otherwise you don’t get the performance you want. I’m using an omega nub but I reckon you could cut a small cube of eraser and it would work as well.

I assume he means to change the bucking or nub? I haven't got any experience with the mk18 but I assume there are a few screw securing the handguard to the barrel nut which need to be removed to slide the handguard off. Then the barrel nut can be torqued off using the appropriate wrench. Having to take my glove off and awkwardly finger my magwell to adjust the hop sucks though. Sure once you've done it a few times it be comes quite easy, but if you're someone with thicker hands or short fingers, it would REALLY suck. edit: so apparently the mk18 rail is two parts? You have to take the lower part off, and then the upper part via screws at the rear of the handguard or something

By buffer kit you mean it’s a recoil buffer in the buffer tube? It sounds like a pretty janky setup to me! Really sucks when stuff isn’t just drop in. Maybe it requires the g&p buffer tube to work properly?

Ace1Arms, but they still aren't as good as the stock magazines. Ironairsoft also do pmags but apparently they suck major ass. The Ace1Arms one are generally good, although one review I saw said they needed maintenance every 3-4 games? Which seems like a lot since I've used my gun for a few months and only cleaned + relubed the gun...

I just tried reinstalling the green g&p valve again since I’ve got my own acetech chronograph now and am very bored. At a fairly middle setting as in the picture, I was getting 0.6J with a 0.25. I then tried setting it to the maximum possible setting and got a consistent 1.1J average over half a mag. I was using red gas. If you’re looking to reduce the power of the gun then this valve seems to actually be very good, but at least for this 3.5 type, I am not able to get as much of an increase as I would have hoped over stock.

Yup, that spring sucks. I've gotten quite good at it though by following how Badabing does it. Put the nozzle guide in (the plastic section) and pull it towards the back of the bolt, so its sat like it would sit if the spring were inside. Then push the spring into the hole where it's supposed to sit and use the flathead to compress it into the little chamber where it sits, and when you pull the flathead out, it will engage with the post where it should sit.

Thank god! My stock barrel nut has blue loctite all over it, I rate Camoraids for removing that without cracking the gun in half. I'm sure you're going to love the performance.

I'm afraid I didn't take it off myself, my tech did it when he installed my rail system. I can't imagine TM has some proprietary screw for this though, have you tried putting a torx in and seeing if it seats?

Just so you know, the barrel nut on the MTR16 can apparently be INSANELY hard to remove. You'll need a lot of elbow grease to get it moving

You mean your hop is being reduced if you shoot or not?! That sounds weird as hell... I haven't disassembled the wheel part of the MWS hop but usually hop chambers have an o-ring which helps maintain tension. Have you checked if that is there?

Huh, I see! I'm not sure why I had such bad results from mine. I think I will try to pick up one of those HAO Ecoline bolts and some aftermarket nozzle set to install the valve into, and give it another try. Was there any reasoning as to why you bought the 4.5 valve? Inner barrel length? EDIT: I just realised you already said above in the post you linked that your barrel is 370mm. Mine is around 270mm so the 3.5 valve is apparently the correct one. I'd like to try this valve again though, since your results with it is very consistent.

There were a few issues I’ve had with my valve. Firstly, the translucent plastic adjusting screw was so tight fitting in it’s threads that the provided metal tool to adjust it did a lot of damage when adjusting, especially when performing the adjustment with it installed inside the nozzle. During testing, to adjust FPS, I had to disassembly the whole damn bolt to take the valve out then very carefully screw in/out to prevent further stripping, which was a major pain in the ass. Secondly, with the valve at its maximum setting I got to 1.3 joules, 102m/s with 0.25, and found that it was not consistent either. For example, with a fully gassed up mag I could get 102, then 95, then 103, then 94. Compared to the stock valve which barely has a deviation of 2m/s for me. It could be that this is because the valve was in a position where it was “too maxed out”, but for me the whole point of installing the valve was to reach the 5m minimum engagement distance limits here in Sweden (1.7j) so it’s not fit for my requirements. But there is someone here who uses the valve and has good performance, so I wonder if mine is a lemon or if it’s not the right one for my barrel length? I followed the guide on jkarmy for which one to get but maybe getting a valve for a longer inner barrel in order to over-gas the system and get more joule creep would be better.

Check the listings on jkarmy’s website, they say which one to use depending on the length or your inner barrel. I got the 3.5 one which is supposed to be good for my stock inner barrel, but performance was not good to be honest, I went back to the original valve.

I got mine yesterday and tried it out. Performance for me with green gas was... a little lackluster? I felt like my hop was being reduced over time, sometimes I'd put a fresh mag in and start shooting and I'd have 0 hop applied for 5 bb's, then too much hop for 10 more, then flat for the rest of the magazine. I also had extreme freezing (not using full auto either), where the bolt was frozen over and jamming up. I swapped to red gas for the rest of the night and didn't see as much freezing, but I wonder if since the bolt was freezing over, the bucking was also experiencing some cooldown, causing the inconsistent hop? Either way, I've swapped to one of a spare 60 degree Decepticon. I initially put the i-key in too but there was a crazy amount of hop applied so I took it out. The hop arm doesnt seem to flex like the TM glock ones too so I'm pretty hopeful that this will work better.

Yeah I realise I used the wrong term here. I mean a complete upper receiver instead of upper, that you can start with to add your own inner/outer barrel + handguard setups and whatnot. I'm still wondering though, are m4 MWS uppers compatible with the MTR16?

Damn... I mean it’s pricey but given it’s cerakoted and includes everything needed for an upper, I would be tempted to pick one up.

Nice! Is there any news on how much it will be? I'd definitely be tempted pick one of these up depending on cost. Also, does anyone know if MWS M4 uppers work fine with MTR16 lowers, and vice versa?

Ohhh is this a part of the quick-change barrel system they teased a few weeks ago?

I also kind of want one of these as a spare to much about with and to try and get to as high joules as possible. What is the optimal nozzle setup to run in it? Guns modify?

So update on the g&p 3.5 valve. I was getting pretty bad results from it. My bone stock mws/MTR16 bolt gives me 83-89m/s with a fully gassed up and fully loaded magazine with 0.25’s which is around 1j and below. The very same bolt with the g&p 3.5 valve in its setting which directs most air forward (the setting which should give me the most m/s), I got a maximum of 98m/s, around 1.2 joules I think. The variance was also greater- towards the end of a fully gassed up magazine I was getting as low as 85m/s down from the initial shots of 98m/s. The trade off of shot-to-shot consistency for that extra 0.2j isn’t worth it to be honest so I’ve swapped back to the stock valve. I also tested the g&p valve on its most “closed” setting and I was getting very inconsistent m/s, between 45 and 60. Maybe this setting is out of the operational range of the valve though. All in all, I really like the g&p bolt, although the increase in joules was unexpected. I’ll reserve this bolt for outdoor use I guess since my cqb arena operates at a max 1.2J and I get 1.25 with the g&p bolt. The g&p adjustable valve leaves a lot to be desired in my case. Others seem to have had success with it but for some reason in my system it didn’t give me the FPS boost I wanted.

I will add my part to the spreadsheet hopefully today if I get access to a chrono. Would be interesting to see how it performs in your climate with different pressure gasses

Cheers! I’m happy with it so far. My concern was that it wouldn’t be consistent since the Angrygun mpas was all over the place but I’m left quite happy with how everything turned out. The awkward thing is that my intention of using the g&p bolt as my cqb/1 joule bolt and the stock one as my outdoor/1.7 joule bolt is pretty much fucked, unless I can figure out how to disassembly the g&p bolt and install the 3.5 Adjustable Valve I’ve got... For now I’ve just finished installing the 3.5 valve into my stock MTR bolt and will be able to chrono it tomorrow to see what kind of FPS I can squeeze out of it. And I was using Nuprol 2.0 today but just finished off the can. I’ll be moving to ASG Power/green gas tomorrow since I can buy it in bulk for 1/4 of the price of a single can of Nuprol 2.0. I actually can’t seem to find this spreadsheet... maybe I’m just blind or it’s not obvious on mobile. Can you link it again?

I got my complete G&P bolt today 1 hour before leaving for my CQB game and so was able to test it. As @AlphaBear mentioned before, the machining is of very high quality. The screw with the C-clip also sits around 1mm away from the bolt instead of flush, so I reckon this is some kind of design decision. Initial thoughts are that it is indeed completely drop-in unlike the Angrygun bolt was for me (dodgy sealing buffer meant shitty firing rate and sticky nozzle). I got a 0.30J increase in power which was unexpected and not entirely welcome since I originally intended to use this bolt for my CQB arena and install the G&P adjustable valve in my stock bolt to use outdoors as a DMR, but it seems like I'll have to figure something else out. I only tested with 0.25g bb's, but I was consistently getting between 98 and 101 m/s, so around 1.28 and 1.32 joules. It was very consistent , I would get 101-102 m/s with a fully filled mag with green gas, and after 10-15 shots, it would settle to around 98-99m/s. Also, I noticed a distinct change in how the gun sounds when firing. I'm pretty sure this bolt is louder the stock MTR bolt, and it has a distinct metallic sound when firing which is really satisfying which the Angrygun bolt definitely didn't have. I wonder if this is due to the roller bolt design? Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out! I'm glad that it worked OOTB and didn't require any fitting or anything. Also interesting to note, the G&P bolt didn't engage my hop up dial like the Angrygun one did (the AG bolt would literally decrease my hop from 60% to 0% in a magazine or two), so I'm staying well away from AG internals for the MWS to be honest.