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JUSTICE_RAINS

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Posts posted by JUSTICE_RAINS

  1. Quick question on the MP5 NGRS usability during winter - I heard the mosfet will stop the gun from working when the battery is cold. Is this still applicable to the recent batches? Anybody have experience with skirmishing in the cold with these?

     

    I'm coming from GBBRs and would love to pick one of these up as a backup for when they just get too temperamental in the weather. Unfortunately if the MP5 NGRS refuses to work in the cold, that kind of defeats the purpose.

  2. On 24/08/2020 at 06:44, Jigorugu said:

    Very very interesting, do you have a YouTube chanell to explained this on video,  i don't have experience  on cutting nubs!?

     

    I may do a comparison test in the future but I don't have anything except gameplay with the MTR-16: https://www.youtube.com/user/ucanhascheeseburger/videos?view_as=subscriber

     

    The vast majority of my shots are close range (under 30 meters) but even for longer range shots across the field, I am easily hitting people from 50-60m away no problem.

     

    Cutting nubs is very easy, you just take a sharp blade such as an X-ACTO knife for cutting cardboard boxes and cut straight downward on the front of the nub, being careful not to cut at an angle or make a messy cut. If you don't do this mod, your bucking won't be able to apply pressure evenly across the patch because the barrel gets in the way.

     

      

    On 27/08/2020 at 06:57, Smiller said:

    Did you test the tnt with the brass nub (sixg)? What about best for running at 1 joule /350fps? Really interested in the results. You’re write up is fab by the way and really interesting. Giving me another combo to trial as the tan bucking just fails far too quickly.

     

    I haven't tried the TNT bucking with the brass nub, but I would imagine the brass nub would perform very well just about any flat or R Hop shaped bucking. Due to the concave shape of the nub, it will give the bucking contact patch more of a curved Maple Leaf-esque shape while a flat nub will apply a... well... flat contact shape over the BB. And due to the limited space where the nub can fit through in the hop up chamber, a slightly bigger nub won't make an insane amount of difference.

     

    I've noticed that the most important factors are: 1) the nub must be very stiff and stable 2) the hop arm should be stable and not moving from side to side 3) the hop chamber should also be centered in the outer barrel, and 4) the contact patch must come down perfectly evenly over the barrel window after everything is assembled. #1 can mean anything from the brass SixG nub to the TNT flat nub (due to the length of the TNT nub it will require slightly more modification than others) to the Maple Leaf Omega Tensioner concave nub or even a Modify flat nub. #2 and #3 can be helped with a CNC hop chamber/arm combination lke the Laylax MWS hop chamber, or a small roll of teflon tape. #4 comes with a lot of patience and time. :) 

     

    If you find that the Modify tan bucking wears down too often for your liking (it is an old design after all), I would highly recommend the Maple Leaf MR Hop 60 degree (if you're not using a lot of full auto) or the TNT TR Hop 50 or 60 degree, paired with a solid nub of your choice (assuming 350 FPS w/0.2g BBs). There will be a slight break in period of 300-500 rounds, but your bucking will last many thousands of shots easily.

  3. @occidio I've tested only three barrels - the stock 6.08mm 250mm brass inner barrel, a 370mm long 6.03mm Laylax/Prometheus steel inner barrel, and a 410mm long 6.04mm Maple Leaf Crazy Jet brass barrel. From my tests it was clear that the barrel has minimal effect, if any, on the accuracy and range of the platform. 95% of the accuracy/range comes from the bucking and nub used, how clean everything is, and getting everything properly aligned. As an example, my first time installing the T-N.T. bucking was a disaster because the bucking patch was slightly canted to the left, causing all my shots to curve way left field. I had the 410mm Maple Leaf Crazy Jet on at the time which made no difference in accuracy. When I went back and properly aligned the patch, I started putting fist sized groupings into a tree at roughly 30 meters out just standing offhand.

     

    I have a professionally tuned R-Hopped Lambda 6.05mm steel tightbore inner barrel w/Modify flat bucking and flat nub in my primary AEG which had a +/-1 FPS deviation at the chrono last weekend. My MTR-16 is slightly more accurate with the T-N.T. bucking and nub. That's saying a lot. You can also notice the Joule creep on the GBBR is more significant than on the AEG.

     

    The ML Crazy Jet barrels have very small windows, but my TR Hop bucking fit into the window and made a nice concave R-hop style contact surface with the BB. I actually prefer this smaller hop window because there seems to be less room for the hop up bucking patch to be misaligned, while a wider window means slightly more room for error (in theory). The stock barrel window is quite open and allows for a wide variety of bucking/nub setups. The Prometheus barrel is similar to the stock barrel, with a wide open window. 

  4. Hey guys, I made a youtube channel showcasing some dank airsoft gameplay. 

     

    Below is my most recent video. I have other videos on my channel as well with some cool editing and good footage. A couple things to note:

     

    • I mostly play in Massachusetts. I play in an outdoor CQB field called Allstarr Action Sports which sponsors our team. I also travel and play in other states.
    • All of the people I play with are friends or acquaintances and I always apologize after the game if I ever overshoot them or if I unknowingly don't call a hit etc. so the clips are just done for fun with no hard feelings at the end of the day. 
    • I try to make fast paced high action gameplay. If you prefer slower gameplay let me know!
    • I stay away from clickbait titles and cheater videos. They rack up views like no other but they are the cancer of airsoft media.
    • I play with AEGs and gas blowback rifles (primarily the Cybergun VFC SIG MCX AEG and the Tokyo Marui MTR-16 and the GHK AKS-74U GBBR).
    • I respond to most comments and I upload videos as often as I can. 

     

    Let me know what you think!

     

     

     

  5. Hey guys, so I watched @Bada Bing's beautiful MTR-16 review and caved in and bought one. First post here.

     

    I was so impressed with the performance I decided to make a montage of a day's worth of gameplay with it. 😀

     

     

    It's not your typical gameplay and any sort of feedback or support would be greatly appreciated. If this isn't allowed let me know.

     

    I've put about 3000 rounds through the MTR-16 so far and it's running strong. I had to shave down the trigger guard to get the Ace 1 Arms PMAGs to fit, and they had a rough break in period where they would jam the gun every half dozen mags or so and eventually the locking lugs of my Angry Gun NPAS nozzle broke off (Thankfully somehow still working!). The gun itself is fantastic, no complaints. It gets tons of compliments on the field every time I take it out, and people love shooting it. I have only upgraded the buffer to a G&P adjustable one, used the Angry Gun NPAS nozzle for FPS adjustment, and fitted a Maple Leaf MR Hop bucking for that sweet sweet range. Surprisingly it out-ranges most AEGs on the field even at the same joule level.

     

    I also tried the TNT bucking but that one was just not consistent enough for my liking, there was a break-in period of 500 rounds where it just kept hooking left and right and I couldn't deal with the lateral inconsistency. So I went back to my Maple Leaf MR Hop and it's been serving me faithfully since. The strange thing about the TNT bucking is that it has better vertical consistency than the Maple Leaf MR Hop, but worse lateral deviation. The MR Hop has better lateral deviation and slightly worse vertical dispersion, though the overall grouping favors the MR Hop because vertical dispersion is easier to adjust than lateral. Not surprisingly, inner barrel length or diameter has very little effect, if any, on my MTR. I used a Maple Leaf 410mm inner barrel and it did raise the joules quite a bit, but effect on either accuracy or range was negligible. I'm fairly certain 90% of the accuracy comes from having good tolerances with no wobbly parts, consistent gas output, and a really good bucking/nub combo. I prefer the stock barrel because I don't want insane joule creep.

     

    I've also upgraded to propane and noticed it doesn't smell half bad. I'm used to smelly smells (mostly from fermented Korean food). 

     

    Oh and the best part - my MTR-16 G Edition did not come with red loctite on the barrel nut (though there was red loctite on the handguard screw threads). Strange! And quite thankful. I can strip it down to the upper and chamber in a matter of minutes without having to exert enough pressure to crush carbon into diamonds.

     

    I do have one issue with it - on the stock bucking and TNT bucking, the gun has no issue dumping a full mag accurately on full auto. However, on the MR Hop, the gun will shoot a few BBs fine, then a couple BBs will drop out of the end of the barrel with 0 hop. Basically my spray pattern is a mix of straight BBs and dropping BBs. I'm 99% sure it's the Maple Leaf MR Hop bucking but I don't use it on full auto enough to warrant changing anything yet. It could also be because I'm using a 70 degree bucking at 1.2-1.4 joules which is a little bit harder than most people would use. Maybe I will remove the metal bucking stabilizing ring and see if that has any effect.

     

    I can't wait for what TM has in store for their AK GBBR on July 17th when they'll finally reveal it.

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