Funnyhat29

Unfortunately nobody near me I know has one, and moving into tier 3 next week Yes very true it is not 2014 anymore yeah tightened everything with no only gears and a couple bits were stiff so removed some shims previously, will definitely wait for the grandad battery to charge, if it solves it will definitely invest in a lipo 7.4 and deans connectors! I will also bare the fully auto trick in mind if it continues to lock thank you!

it's an 8.4V NiMh, it's a 6 year old battery, was working good about 6 months ago after a full charge. I am leaning on this being a flat battery issue but just wanted to see if there was anything else obvious I was missing.

Hi all, So a couple weeks back I decided to brush the dust off my g&g cm16. I have had the gearbox open before but decided I'd open it up, give it a clean and re-lubricate it, all was good, re-assembled and test fired. But during the process of re-assembly I had noticed the airseal was shocking, so ordered a new air nozzle and o-ring for my piston (was in two minds about going down a large upgrade route but decided for the cheaper option). A few days later my bits arrived, quickly test fired a couple times before disassembling to fit new parts, and the gearbox locked up. Dissassembled and could see through the cylinder port that the piston was locked to the rear. Did some shimming for the first time and have also been getting to know the inside of my gearbox a lot more (sounds intimate, I know). I re-shimmed and assembled the gearbox without piston, spring, cylinder etc. and attempted to turn the gears with my finger. I noticed that the cut-off lever appeared to block the sector gear on a rotation, exactly at the point that the piston would be pretty much at the rear of the box. I tried a few adjustments and all was good, gears spun freely, no sticking point. Re-assembled and again the piston locked to the rear. Thought maybe my shimming job was potentially too tight, despite there being free up and down wiggle room, so removed a 0.1mm shim from each gear. Again gearbox stuck to the rear. I took the motor out, and spun the bevel gear with a screwdriver, after a few turns the piston shot to the front. This leads me to believe there is no physical block on the gears or pison (I can rule out the cut-off lever etc. as it is all standard internals minus the air nozzle). I thought the battery could be quite flat as I gave it a few hours charge when I initially went down this rabbit hole but never fully charged it. Anyway enough of my waffling, the battery is currently on charge, and going to wait for it to recharge fully. If I am still getting gearbox lock up, after this, what would be people's recommendations I try next? Thanks

yeah, hopefully it looks good when it all comes together

i found this outer barrel http://www.davescustomairsoft.co.uk/External-Parts/barrel-block-tube?product_id=1219, not too bad, i assume this will fit to my receiver, £27 for the rail and a cheap suppressor for £10, £12 for some magpul flips, may treat my self to some rail covers as well

it's not the length, although a longer barrel would be nicer, it's just making it look different, make it my own instead of a stock gun

any idea where to get an outer barrel for? i know most barrels will be compatible with the receiver

Hi all, I have a g&g cm16 raider short, satisfied with the internals at the moment and am looking to upgrade it externally, my preferred build would be a 10" outer barrel with a flash suppressor and a 10" free float rail, i have found some parts already, just wanted some advice/alternatives that you guys suggest Can't seem to find any decent priced outer barrels in the uk....so any pointers there would be good, i found this for the rail: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221904092774?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT any advice/feedback is appreciated