Dannn

I was thinking about using a tiny bead of brown silicone sealant to seal the join off once everything is fitted and fettled, and if I do need to split it till still come apart

I used 12mm copper tube about 8" long and cut lots of slots diagonal across it, cut out 4 discs with 12 mm holes in to slip over the copper tube ( 1 each end and 2 as baffles) that were the same diameter as the 35 mm outer tube and fitted all that wrapped in steel wool in the tube about 13" long, made a reducer to fit over the barrel and bingo, working sciencer ! Not filled the stock yet, I'm looking to fit the Mancraft reg and co2 reservoir in a kinda box that I'll make that fits in the stock, but I'm still waiting for it to arrive then I'll add lead to get the balance perfect then finally fol any voids with squirty foam,

I'm waiting on lots of internals for my bar 10, I think that's worse than waiting for the actual rifle !

Been researching about how they work on real rifles so I've made one, the same way one is made to go on a real rifle, and what a difference it makes, there's more nous from the action than the muzzle, plus I think it looks cool as fuck !

What are your experiences?

Yeah, inventing something that people have always done !

Ahhh I just invented the wheel lol

It's not often I'm stunned by how such s simple thing makes a huge difference! Basically I'm fannying around with my bar 10 until my new internals come just seeing what happens from doing what. I took the hop unit to bits to see how it works as it wouldn't lift .30's which I thought was a bit crap. This is why... Pretty much no nub ! That pathetic excuse for a nub did nothing! So I took the arm off, sanded the nub off, cut a square of pencil eraser 5mmx5mmx4 Stuck that on and sanded an angle on it so it made flat contact with the bucking, put it all back together and it'll now send .30's to the sky with full hop and a perfect flat trajectory with half hop on and I lazered the extra flat range at 30' Now that's fucking awesome for 25 mins work and no cost in parts, just shows with a little experiment lots can be gained !

Ive only looked at the PDI one and if in correct it's not compatible with Mancraft I'll look at the AA one too, Like proffrink says I might go with the biro mod firstly as its not permanent and see what hop and range I can achieve with that then if it's not working sufficiently might use an aftermarket hop. I've just been doing a bit more research on the TDC mod and if I can get a nice looking spring loaded ajuster made up I may go down that route in the long term as I guess once I've settled on one brand and weight of bb I shouldn't need to ajust much, only to counteract wear in the hop rubber it's self

Cheers for the concise post Yeah they'll make pretty much anything I think ! I'll be using .40's most likely but I'll try all the heavy weight ammo see what performes best. I'll try modding the arm with an extend nub to start with, but I guess because of the design of the arm it's impossible to have a totally flat even pressure as it moves in an arc doesn't it? I'm presuming that's one of the reasons the top dead centre mod has been invented ?

More questions haha... Hi all, this is the set up I'm building using a JG bar 10 base, I have a hop arm question, I will be using...airsoft pro cnc trigger, wide bore Edgi barrel with r-hop and Mancraft HPA conversion kit. Question is what hop arm do you guys suggest that's most suited to give the most surface contact to an r-hopped barrel ?

I think I'm going to get the leaf suit too for mainly woodland sites ( the one that bodgeups uses ). both my local sites are mainly grassland with grass/bush covered bunkers so the "jute" gillie suit should blend in better than the leaf. All down to the surroundings really isn't it.

I just git my bar 10 from uksniper parts... Not sure if they have any left

6 hours painstaking work and it's half finished, up to now there's about 500 m of jute twine !

Hahahahaha I love it....

Since my upgrade bits aren't here I thought I'd get busy with the cammo ! You like ?

I'll shoot you with my bar 10.... Providing you arent too far away 😂😂😂😂

I'll shoot you with my bar 10.... Providing you arent too far away 😂😂😂😂

Nothing unless you've got £200+ to spend on internals ! I got my new bar 10 on Thursday, after much faffing, stripping lubing and re building I got it working...(still totally standard) I've never had a single action springer so wasn't sure what to expect. I stuck some optics on it, threw some .28's in the mag, zeroed it in and it's not actually a bad shooter. I've got as much hop on as I can and its still not lifting .28's to the moon like my R hoped aeg but it's ok, Range for man size target is 125-150 ' ish maximum with a number of flyers... BUT don't anyone expect to go to a skirmish and be anywhere near competitive with a standard sniper rifle! My aeg will out range it and is more accurate than it in its standard form and there's the ROF...... In short unless your feild craft skills are up to real sniper levels you are gonna get shot to shit running standard gear Be prepared to spend lots on it !!

Ok, I'll have a think.. do the mancraft kits differ for 90' triggers and standard 45' ?

I'm looking to order everything for my bar 10 build this weekend, should I get a 90' trigger or just keep the standard one? I ask as when upgrading springs you need to but since it's gas will I need to ?

Cheers mate...stripped it, pulled the spring guide stopper out, lubed everything re built and it works !!

Disclaimer, noted and ignored haha! Actually it may be cocked but the trigger won't release the spring ?

Not sure how much Spring resistance there should be but I can take the bolt back with 1 finger and light pressure. It won't fire with the bolt open and to the rear

Any ideas ?