TM Glock 17 Gen 4 frame disassebly

[emilianoksa]

I know the slides between the Gen 3 and 4 are not compatible, but what about the frames?

 

I recently installed the internals of my Glock 22 into a Guarder nylon Gen 2 frame.

 

Now I would like to put the internals of my Glock 17 Gen 4 into the new Guarder 17 Gen 4 frame.

 

Are there any major differences that I should be aware of? The internals of the Gen4 may be slightly different from those of the Glock 22, but I imagine the general layout or mechanics are pretty much the same. Can anyone confirm this?

 

I know the Guarder Gen 4 frame needs a special one piece serial number tag unit that is different from other Guarder Glock ones, and has to be bought separately, but is there anything else I should know about?

[Krisz]

It's pretty straightforward to be honest. I didn't buy different serial number tag I used the original one. No need for sandpaper or dremel. Gen4. frame is spot on except the grip part because it's so tight you have to yank the mag out literally.

Edited February 17, 2023 by Krisz

[Cr0-Magnon]

I'm a little confused by your question. You start by asking about compatibility between 3 and 4, then go on to mention 4 internals in a 4 frame.

[emilianoksa]

Sorry if  I wasn't clear.

 

I just wanted go check if the internals on the gen4 are disassembled in the same way and order as the gen4.

[theSwede]

8 hours ago, emilianoksa said:

Sorry if  I wasn't clear.

 

I just wanted go check if the internals on the gen4 are disassembled in the same way and order as the gen4.

I’m also a bit confused by your question but I guess the answer would be… yes..?

[Cr0-Magnon]

12 hours ago, emilianoksa said:

Sorry if  I wasn't clear.

 

I just wanted go check if the internals on the gen4 are disassembled in the same way and order as the gen4.

 

The biggest difference is on the Gen.4, is there's an actual pin which goes through the trigger spring, so you have to knock this through (on the Gen.3 it's a fake one). As a tip for this, the slide release spring rests in a notch on this pin, so it's best if you lever this spring out of the notch while pushing the pin through (took me bloody ages to figure that one out!).

 

This pin also makes reassembly more fiddly. The way I do it is to put the pin through the trigger spring first, then when everything else is back together, I take a tiny Allen key and use it to lever the trigger spring over the trigger bar (you can pull on the trigger to bring it closer while you do this).

 

Hopefully that makes sense.

[emilianoksa]

Thanks a lot.

 

Very useful information.