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Uleu

Paint That Doesn't Rub Off After Oiling?

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Hey there guys!

Recently, due to the rise of free time I've had, I decided to begin working on some projecst of mine, one involving modifying an painting a metal cover. Everything went pretty smoothly, paint looked real good, nice and dry and pretty solid too, used matt black spray paint for it.

Only issue is that, after oiling things that were slightly close to it (using 3in1 lube), I noticed it began to rub off, not a lot mind you, but could begin to see the metal underneath. Kinda puts me on edge a little, is there any way I could prevent this from happening later on? Specially since I'll have to use oil fairly frequently. Any specific paints I could use? Only real requirement is it being matt black, nothing overly glossy.

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Something like rustoleum or hammerite might do the job. Do you have access to an oven?

Baking it after application can help things. 

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You can use Krylon (around £13 a can), Deco (10) or Kobra (£5) which are all available from amazon but the usual you get what you pay for but with any rattle can spray they say it’s good to go after 2-ish hour but better if it’s 24hrs (recoat after 20mins) but my experience is give each colour 48-72hrs to let it fully harden.

I am currently trying Marker paint from my local graffiti shop with some really good results (https://www.graffhq.com) but again you get what you pay for and clear coating afterwards is key.

If you as mentioned by @DerDer go for baking it and if goes wrong in the oven then it’s either a baaaaaaad paint job (wrinkled/hazy) or a deformed object or a very VERY VERY annoyed wife :D
I would also recommend 2-4 coats of a matt clear coat again leaving a 2-3 to fully cure and harden then bar the usual dinks and scratches from playing your paint job should be golden.

Only other option would be trying to cerakote it but that’s whole new ballgame and expensive- lots of how-to’s on YouTube tho if you wanna try it :)

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3 hours ago, MiK said:

You can use Krylon (around £13 a can), Deco (10) or Kobra (£5) which are all available from amazon but the usual you get what you pay for but with any rattle can spray they say it’s good to go after 2-ish hour but better if it’s 24hrs (recoat after 20mins) but my experience is give each colour 48-72hrs to let it fully harden.

I am currently trying Marker paint from my local graffiti shop with some really good results (https://www.graffhq.com) but again you get what you pay for and clear coating afterwards is key.

If you as mentioned by @DerDer go for baking it and if goes wrong in the oven then it’s either a baaaaaaad paint job (wrinkled/hazy) or a deformed object or a very VERY VERY annoyed wife :D
I would also recommend 2-4 coats of a matt clear coat again leaving a 2-3 to fully cure and harden then bar the usual dinks and scratches from playing your paint job should be golden.

Only other option would be trying to cerakote it but that’s whole new ballgame and expensive- lots of how-to’s on YouTube tho if you wanna try it :)


Thanks for the heads up pal! So you reckon that the quality of the paint is the direct cause of it rubbing off with 3in1 oil, right? Or is it just a comon thing for them spray paints to do this? I just really don't want to go out and get a nice spray paint for it to behave in the same way, would be a shame!

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Doing a little delving into 3in1 oil it contains Naphtha which is petroleum based and is good for cleaning metal so that could be a reason, also the quality of the paint or the hardened state of paint or the lack of any clear protective coat or it could have just got under the paint making it loose.


So pondering on the issue could be that 3in1 could take paint off, or your paint wasn’t hardened enough beforehand,  or you didn’t have a protective coat over your paint, or the paint itself wasn’t fully adhered to the gun (did you scruff up the metal/plastic?) or a primer was needed to bond to.

 

Try blasting a bit of paint on another object like a cardboard box, a empty bean can and something plastic - but half of the object give some scuffing or prime it. Then give the same time you gave the gun to dry and “drop” some 3in1 on those object and wipe again.

if the paint sticks then it could be a adherence issue from the pre-painting on the gun

if the paint doesn’t then it your paint and 3in1 don’t mix :)

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10 minutes ago, MiK said:

Doing a little delving into 3in1 oil it contains Naphtha which is petroleum based and is good for cleaning metal so that could be a reason, also the quality of the paint or the hardened state of paint or the lack of any clear protective coat or it could have just got under the paint making it loose.


So pondering on the issue could be that 3in1 could take paint off, or your paint wasn’t hardened enough beforehand,  or you didn’t have a protective coat over your paint, or the paint itself wasn’t fully adhered to the gun (did you scruff up the metal/plastic?) or a primer was needed to bond to.

 

Try blasting a bit of paint on another object like a cardboard box, a empty bean can and something plastic - but half of the object give some scuffing or prime it. Then give the same time you gave the gun to dry and “drop” some 3in1 on those object and wipe again.

if the paint sticks then it could be a adherence issue from the pre-painting on the gun

if the paint doesn’t then it your paint and 3in1 don’t mix :)


Hey again pal!

Yeah as far as that goes I've gone out and tested that today, got an old piece of clean metal that I sprayed black, let it dry for a good while and tried with the oil. It does scrub off pretty good, so I'm assuming that yeah this paint isn't too oil friendly lmao! 

Never applied clear coat on any of the surfaces after painting (and yes, I did sand the original cover before I painted it quite thoroughly!), but I'm kinda worried that the coating would behave the same way as the paint would, scrubbing off when in contact with oil. Any input or experience with clear coating, as far as resistance to oil goes? Any brand I should look into if it could prove useful in avoiding this issue?

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Give another item/s a go again with your paint - but scuff half of it - even a Brillo pad would scuff it enough and then leave it in a nice warm place till at least evening tomorrow and try the 3in1-wipe test - I still think the “drying” time could be the issue (or the pre-prep) - I personally leave anything 1-2 days between to harden up.

I use Loop marker paint atm and use plastikote for clear coat and do at least 3-5 coats of clear over a day (it has a 1 hour dry time) then leave it a full day to fully set before I do anything.

9A53888A-51E9-4614-8348-BE5E787BBE75.jpeg

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18 minutes ago, MiK said:

Give another item/s a go again with your paint - but scuff half of it - even a Brillo pad would scuff it enough and then leave it in a nice warm place till at least evening tomorrow and try the 3in1-wipe test - I still think the “drying” time could be the issue (or the pre-prep) - I personally leave anything 1-2 days between to harden up.

I use Loop marker paint atm and use plastikote for clear coat and do at least 3-5 coats of clear over a day (it has a 1 hour dry time) then leave it a full day to fully set before I do anything.

9A53888A-51E9-4614-8348-BE5E787BBE75.jpeg


Alright, sound! 

Will look into that, I've already got a few things drying since this morning so hopefully by tommorrow evening I can test that out! if not, I'll definitely look into clear coating the parts

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@Uleu how did the day of hardening for for the paint issues go ?

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